Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

1998 Deville rear main seal replacement


KHE

Recommended Posts

I am working on a '98 Deville enigne - replacing the rear main seal, Timeserting, new rings, re-sealing case half, re-sealing oil pan, etc. and apparently, there was a change to the rear main seal for 1997 and the installation tool is different. I have a 1996 shop manual which describes the old seal. Does anyone have a '98 service manual that they could scan and post the pages on the rear mail seal replacement? Scans from the '97 manual might also have the information.

For the price of the special tool (even on ebay...), It would be cheaper to haul the engine down to my local dealer and have them do it for 1/2 hour of labor.

Thanks!

Edited by KHE

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Kevin:

My scanner is not operating at this time due to a computer upgrade to WIN 7 and a lack of drivers from Epson.

But I am willing to copy and snail-mail the appropriate pages from my 1998 Seville Service Manual if that would provide timely guidance.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just an update - Once I receive the new rear main seal, I'll know what special tool from "Spent-Moore" I need. I think I'd be cheaper off payng the stealership 1/2 hour of labor to install the seal but we'll see.

The cylinders are going to be honed this week. Once I get the "all clear" from the shop, I'll order new rings, rear main seal, Bigserts, etc. My neighbor across the street has an engine shop and he's going to hone the cylinders to the factory spec. and check the clearances, etc. for "a beer now and then". I'm going to buy him a case or two!

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont know if this is what you are looking for, but this is from the GM SI for 1998

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal and Housing Replacement

Removal Procedure

Tools Required

J 38817 Rear Main Seal Installer

Remove the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Automatic Transmission.

Remove the flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .

1998RearSeal1.gif

The preferred method of seal removal is by drilling a (1/8 in) hole in the metal seal body and removing the seal with a body dent puller (slide hammer). Seal removal with a screwdriver blade between the seal lips and the crankshaft is also possible but extreme care is required to avoid damage to the crankshaft sealing surface.

Installation Procedure

Replace a small dab of RTV sealant at the crankcase split line across the end of the upper/lower crankcase seal.

1998RearSeal2.gif

Lubricate the rear main seal sealing lips and engine block with engine oil and slide the seal over the arbor of the J 38817 . The garter spring faces in.

Thread J 38817 into the crankshaft flange and install the seal by turning the handle until the tool bottoms against the crankcase.

Install the flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .

Install the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Automatic Transmission

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kevin, here is the procedure from 2003, do you want the photos? They call this, the LATE DESIGN

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Replacement Late Design

Tools Required

J 42841 Rear Oil Seal Remover

J 45930 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer

Removal Procedure

Remove the flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .

Place the J 42841 onto the crankshaft.

Install the J 42841 retaining bolts.

Using a drill motor, variable speed preferred, with a socket adapter, install eight 25 mm (1.0 in) self-drilling screws into the seal using the guide holes in the removal tool. When drilling, make sure you reduce the drill speed when the screw begins threading into the seal.

With all 8 removal screws installed, remove the J 42841 retaining bolts.

Install the center forcing screw.

Tighten the center screw on the J 42841 to pull the seal assembly off the end of the crankshaft.

Installation Procedure

Important

Make sure the drain is clear before installing the new crankshaft rear oil seal. Failure to clear the drain could cause the crankshaft rear oil seal to leak.

Clean any debris from the crankshaft rear oil seal drain (1) using wire or an unbound plastic tie-wrap (2).

Place a small amount of Gasket Maker, GM P/N 1052942 (Canadian P/N 10953466) or equivalent, at the crankcase split line across the end of the upper/lower crankcase seal.

Coat the outer diameter of the cylinder block crankshaft rear oil seal area with clean engine oil GM P/N 12345501 (Canadian P/N 992704) or equivalent.

Important

DO NOT allow any engine oil on the area where the crankshaft rear oil seal is to be pressed onto the crankshaft. The green coating pre-applied to the inner diameter of the crankshaft rear oil seal must not be contaminated.

Wipe the outer diameter of the flywheel flange clean with a lint-free cloth.

Important

DO NOT put any engine oil on the green coating pre-applied to the inner diameter of the crankshaft rear oil seal. This coating is a sealant that must not be contaminated.

Lubricate the outer rubber surface (1) of the crankshaft rear oil seal with clean engine oil GM P/N 12345501 (Canadian P/N 992704) or equivalent.

Loosen the center bolt of the J 45930 until the center hub protrudes approximately 13 mm (0.5 in) beyond the outer plate. It is not necessary to completely unthread the center bolt and separate the 2 pieces of the J 45930 .

Install the J 45930 to the rear of the crankshaft.

Thread the 2 mounting bolts into the crankshaft flange.

Tighten the bolts until the J 45930 is firmly mounted on the crankshaft.

Install the crankshaft rear oil seal by tightening the center bolt until the J 45930 bottoms against the crankcase.

Loosen the center bolt to release pressure on the crankcase.

Loosen the 2 mounting bolts.

Remove the J 45930 from the crankshaft flange.

Inspect to ensure the installation depth is equal around the crankshaft rear oil seal's circumference. If the depth is not equal reinstall the J 45930 and repeat the installation procedures.

Install the flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement .

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

....My neighbor across the street has an engine shop and he's going to hone the cylinders to the factory spec. and check the clearances, etc. for "a beer now and then". I'm going to buy him a case or two!

Now that's my kind of neighbor!

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

....My neighbor across the street has an engine shop and he's going to hone the cylinders to the factory spec. and check the clearances, etc. for "a beer now and then". I'm going to buy him a case or two!

Now that's my kind of neighbor!

Exactly! Beer = the universal currency!

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, some bad news on the engine. There was a crack on the aluminum surrounding the cylinder liner on the #8 cylinder. My neighbor discovered it after he hot-tanked the block. The crack looks like it goes all the way to the bottom of the cylinder.

I put the engine back together enough to transport it back to the junkyard to get my money back. I do not want to proceed with the engine as I'm not willing to risk $1200 in seals, rings, bearings, etc. only to have the #8 cylinder distort and start burning oil. Besides, rebuilding the lower end wouldn't make sense starting with a known problem.

The engine was burning a lot of oil - the exhaust valves were caked with soot as were the tops of the pistons. When I took the pistons out, the oil control rings were stuck in the pistons and wouldn't budge.

Now I get to start the search all over again for another engine...

I did buy a bottle of Canadian Club Classic as a partial payment for my neighbor. :D

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...