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VATS PASSkey bypass - Wish me luck!

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How is everyone doing today? I have not been on very much after passing smog and changing my reservoir tank that was cracked @ the bottom hose. Thanks to everyone that spoke up and helped me out, these things were easily achieved.

Been having problems with my key fob, and now my DIC threw me a code of IPC B2711 PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key. Just happened a couple of days ago and pretty sure my ignition lock wires or contacts have fatigued. The resistor pellet within the key is still good, and I visited the nearest dealer and my VATS system is a #5--which should be 1,130 ohms. I really can't picture myself shelling out $400 bones to replace this, and I never would have thought I would have run into such a problem!? Anyway, I think I am going to do the bypass with resistors. Already made the trip to RadioShack.

Such great information found on this site...my gratitude goes out to those who have helped me figure things out for myself, since I have never had a clue on how to work on cars to now doing all this myself!

Anyway, back to the topic at hand...going to emulate vats.likeabigdog.com and others that have posted on here to alleviate this annoying problem. Bought 1/2 watt resistors : 1k - ohm, 100 - ohm, and 33 ohm. to try and replicate my VATS resistance value. This look right to you>? Also if anyone else has any pertinent info it would help me out alot!!

Thank you,

Adam

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How is everyone doing today? I have not been on very much after passing smog and changing my reservoir tank that was cracked @ the bottom hose. Thanks to everyone that spoke up and helped me out, these things were easily achieved.

Been having problems with my key fob, and now my DIC threw me a code of IPC B2711 PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key. Just happened a couple of days ago and pretty sure my ignition lock wires or contacts have fatigued. The resistor pellet within the key is still good, and I visited the nearest dealer and my VATS system is a #5--which should be 1,130 ohms. I really can't picture myself shelling out $400 bones to replace this, and I never would have thought I would have run into such a problem!? Anyway, I think I am going to do the bypass with resistors. Already made the trip to RadioShack.

Such great information found on this site...my gratitude goes out to those who have helped me figure things out for myself, since I have never had a clue on how to work on cars to now doing all this myself!

Anyway, back to the topic at hand...going to emulate vats.likeabigdog.com and others that have posted on here to alleviate this annoying problem. Bought 1/2 watt resistors : 1k - ohm, 100 - ohm, and 33 ohm. to try and replicate my VATS resistance value. This look right to you>? Also if anyone else has any pertinent info it would help me out alot!!

Thank you,

Adam

The wire to the ignition lock will look like an orange modular phone wire. Easily visible at the base of the steering column once the hush panel is removed. The electrical connector will have two small wires. Solder the resistors in series - solder one lead of the 1K resistor to one lead of the 100 ohm resistor. Solder the opposite lead of the 100 ohm resistor to one lead of the 33 ohm. The opposite lead of the 33 ohm and the free lead of the 1K ohm resistor get soldered to the two wires on the column. Cut the column wires toward the steering wheel end of the connector (that is below the dash) and then unplug the connector from the vehicle side of the harness. Now you can solder the resistor network to the wires on the bench and tape all exposed connections with electrical tape. I use a thin coat of PVC pipe cement over the electrical tape to fuse the tape together so it doesn't unwrap over time. Reconnect the harness and the car should start.


Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Kevin is correct.

Typically you do not need 2 resisters. If you get 1 resister within about 10% either side of the key value, the car will start.

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IPC B2711 PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key : SOLVED

Kevin, thank you for the help. Thanks Logan too. I had more than one resistor just to make sure I got as close to 1,130 ohms as I could. With three resistors I got 1,133 ohms. I am super anal I wanted it to be spot on haha.

At first I was hesitant to cut any wiring because I have never done anything with wires before, let alone soldering. I think I measured ohms back in junior high for some science class - so it is safe to say I just learned a whole lot in about two days time. Here is what the semi-finished product looked like, soldering and all. Excuse the iPhone pics for lack of clarity, but it was the easiest way to show everyone.

With buying all supplies, this cost me about $30 compared to $500. Bought resistors, soldering iron, Ohmmeter, solder core rosin, and shrink tubing. Had electrical tape, needle-nose pliers, and a wire cutter. I recommend doing this for anyone that had the same problem as I did.

Make you sure measure the pellet in your key correctly, or you can go to the dealer just as I did and they will tell you the VATS number of your specific vehicle. You can look at it on vats.likeabigdog.com.

th_IMG_0052.jpg

th_IMG_0053.jpg

I know this dude on YouTube is pretty DUB T, but he made me laugh and gave me another angle of learning as opposed to photos and text.

[Note: some off color language]

Hopefully this resolves some issues out there for others after me. Next on the list is fixing my stupid fob or upgrading the alarm. I am sure something will pop up on my Caddy, it sure keeps me busy. However, I love her to death. This forum has saved me from punching out a wall or my windows, that's for sure!!! G-money out

Edited by Bruce from Caddyinfo.com

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Glad you got it fixed, nice job. I adjusted the video to show it onsite.

Thanks Bruce, now it will be easy for someone to see this thread if they search for it. Best forum around, hands down! Think I might have to load a pic of the LAC up here shortly...

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You can put it on a photo site ( http://www.flickr.com or http://www.photobucket.com and link it here or you can shoot it to me and I'll put it on the other server then you can link it here.


Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black; 2013 Cadillac ATS 2L Turbo Premium (Wife's)

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I wonder how many Coors Light's he had before he started the project... I love how he calls the car a Chevy when it's really an Oldsmobile...


Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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How is everyone doing today? I have not been on very much after passing smog and changing my reservoir tank that was cracked @ the bottom hose. Thanks to everyone that spoke up and helped me out, these things were easily achieved.

Been having problems with my key fob, and now my DIC threw me a code of IPC B2711 PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key. Just happened a couple of days ago and pretty sure my ignition lock wires or contacts have fatigued. The resistor pellet within the key is still good, and I visited the nearest dealer and my VATS system is a #5--which should be 1,130 ohms. I really can't picture myself shelling out $400 bones to replace this, and I never would have thought I would have run into such a problem!? Anyway, I think I am going to do the bypass with resistors. Already made the trip to RadioShack.

Such great information found on this site...my gratitude goes out to those who have helped me figure things out for myself, since I have never had a clue on how to work on cars to now doing all this myself!

Anyway, back to the topic at hand...going to emulate vats.likeabigdog.com and others that have posted on here to alleviate this annoying problem. Bought 1/2 watt resistors : 1k - ohm, 100 - ohm, and 33 ohm. to try and replicate my VATS resistance value. This look right to you>? Also if anyone else has any pertinent info it would help me out alot!!

Thank you,

Adam

I took my 92 Cad key to a local lock smith, he checked the resistor value with his meter in the key caddy and picked out a blank and cut the key. In short they are available at most reputable lock smiths.

Frank F

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I took my 92 Cad key to a local lock smith, he checked the resistor value with his meter in the key caddy and picked out a blank and cut the key. In short they are available at most reputable lock smiths.

Frank F

Most of the time when the cars won't start, it is the wires in the ignition lock cylinder that break, not the key. The pellet on the key can wear out but most often, the small wires in the ignition lock cylinder that flex each time the car is started.


Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Not sure why, but everybody around seem to keep calling "VATS Bypass" a simple resistor to install under your steering column or on the TDM's connector. But the problem with that is it will only bypass the key and the lock cylinder, while the entire core of the security system (the TDM or Theft Deterrent Module or anti-theft module) still remains in the loop!

That resistor trick was born just to add a remote starter or fix a broken wire, but today it makes little sense. Today is the TDM that is causing tons of problems around! It dies systematically with the age of the car - even way before her 10th birthday. That's what happened to my trusty Buick and is happening to other tens of thousands of unfortunate people in North America. Lots of people are even junking their cars since GM discontinued the production of the TDM back in Jan 2009.

here is an excellent write up on this topic, may be it can help http://newrockies.ca/

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I wonder how many Coors Light's he had before he started the project... I love how he calls the car a Chevy when it's really an Oldsmobile...

:D I used to know a guy who looked like this dude. When I told him that the bakery he kept calling Portuguese was actually Italian, he could not understand what's the difference. :D He was also sure that Portugal was next to Denmark! :D


The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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My 95 cadillac is having a no start issue. I also performed the resistor trick to no avail as I too was having the remove key wait 3 minutes message. How can I truly confirm the vats resistor pickups in the ignition cylinder are bad, vs. the wiring is bad, vs. the TDM is bad, vs. the starter itself is bad?

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