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me, WOT?


stixboy

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now i've been on this site for a while now and read thru just about everything. i have a 4.9 in my 91 DeVille, 165,000 miles a week ago. now i baby her, and i mean baby. but is that bad that i do? i haven't did a WOT in years. the first one i remember was racing a 94 grand marquis when i first got her. the last time i did it i had to replace my water pump, but it was probably going anyway. i've had her out for ohhhhh, almost 4 months now. should i be considering a WOT? she's got a lot of miles!!!!!!!

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I think WOT is good for any engine once in a while. I did WOT every time when I was merging high way with my 1991 Seville. Nevertheless, a 4.9 engine does not need WOT as much as a Northstar does.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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This L J Booth song "Blow the Carbon Out" always come to mind for me when someone asks this question:

Inside, Peg can hear a conversation

From underneath a truck up off the floor

One voice echoes in the wheel wells

Says, “Bill I don’t know what to do no more”

There’s a silence as Bill’s ratchet stops in midswing

“Carl,” he says, “I never thought you ask”

“I hear you crawl by my station four times a day

With never more than one toe on the gas”

“Stop messing with your timing

Well it ain’t your points or dwell

Let that engine feel it’s power

Once a while just give her hell

And blow the carbon out”

I for one am a fan of the theory that engines and other mechanical items work best when used as designed, not when "babied".

Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black

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I for one am a fan of the theory that engines and other mechanical items work best when used as designed, not when "babied".

I rarely get to drive my mom's car, but when I do she always says it has more "pep" after :D

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

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This L J Booth song "Blow the Carbon Out" always come to mind for me when someone asks this question:

Inside, Peg can hear a conversation

From underneath a truck up off the floor

One voice echoes in the wheel wells

Says, "Bill I don't know what to do no more"

There's a silence as Bill's ratchet stops in midswing

"Carl," he says, "I never thought you ask"

"I hear you crawl by my station four times a day

With never more than one toe on the gas"

"Stop messing with your timing

Well it ain't your points or dwell

Let that engine feel it's power

Once a while just give her hell

And blow the carbon out"

I for one am a fan of the theory that engines and other mechanical items work best when used as designed, not when "babied".

OK...first let me say, I am not trying to tell you how to drive. :D:D

I agree with Bruce...at least up to a point.

I drive my my car fairly hard...compared to some...(maybe most)

it gets regular WOT when I am getting on a freeway or when driving out in the country and passing other cars on 2 lane roads.

It has even been to the drag strip a couple of times. :D:D

On trips to the western part of the country, it is not unusual for me to run it at 100+ for an hour or two at a time.

On a trip a couple of weeks ago...we were on a real nice smooth road in New Mexico with almost ZERO traffic.

I ran it between 115 and 125 for about 75 miles...from Carrizozo NM to Socorro NM where we stopped for the night.

It wasn't even breathing hard. :lol::lol::lol:

It now has 72,000 miles on it.

It uses absolutely "NO OIL" (unlike some) and (at least so far) runs totally perfect.

For me personally, I would be slightly hesitant to buy one that had been BABIED all of it's life...because I don't drive that way, and I would be afraid I might hurt it.

Mainly because "MY WAY" of driving is not what the car had been used to all of it's life.

I was taught at an early age, that periodically, the "SOOT" needs to be blown out of an engine, if it was just drove around town and babied all the time. :D

But, that is "OLD SCHOOL" thinking, from 50 years ago, and may not be applicable to today's modern automobiles.

I don't know.

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If there is something wrong with a car, more stress to the drivetrain is more likely to bring it out.

However, I continue to think that using the car the way it was designed is better for it than babying them is.

This is part of why I go through tires so quickly I suppose.

Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black

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I would make sure the combustion system (valves, piston tops, etc) are cleared by doing WOTs getting on to highway ramps, but I would not WIND OUT that engine too much, do not red line that engine. Keep in mind that the 4.9 is now an aged engine.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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In 1979 I was driving a 1969 Chevrolet with the 427 cid engine from Seattle to the East coast. I was forced to baby it because this is a high-compression engine and at that time you could only get regular unleaded gas on the highway. Ask about high-test gas and you clear Channel 19. On Channel 9 the cops will tell you to drive into a big town to get high-test gas.

What I found out was, that after 500 miles of babying the car at about 65 mph on the Interstate, it was less sensitive to pinging when I took off from a light, and I didn't have to baby it so delicately. At the end of the second day, it had 1,000 miles on the road at 65 mph and I found that it didn't ping at all. With some tentative, cringing, experiments, I gradually determined that I could let 'er have it full bore with unleaded regular. Now understand this: before, if you got a tank of regular in this car and parked it hot, it would run on for several minutes, huffing and shaking like a thing possessed. People would gather in circles around it like a mime at a park. But with 1,000 miles on the road behind it, regular gas was no problem whatsoever.

After a couple of weeks of putting around town on the East coast, it lost its tolerance for regular gas. I went back to high-test.

Bottom line: If you aren't sure of the condition of your tranny, belts, hoses, etc., simply take the car for a long drive. A good day trip, 250 miles each way, will tell the tale. If that does a lot for it, take it for a second 500-mile day trip before it carbons up again. Your car and your family will love you for it. No WOT necessary.

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well i did a lot of research today on the carbon build up, and i've determined i definitely have some significant buildup. i have the carbon cold rap plus the main bearing knock. i've also noticed decreased engine performance and about a 3mpg drop in my fuel efficiency. she definitely needs some work. and quite frankly i DO NOT want to WOT her. she's old and the only car i have and quite frankly i'm scared to do it.

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well i did a lot of research today on the carbon build up, and i've determined i definitely have some significant buildup. i have the carbon cold rap plus the main bearing knock. i've also noticed decreased engine performance and about a 3mpg drop in my fuel efficiency. she definitely needs some work. and quite frankly i DO NOT want to WOT her. she's old and the only car i have and quite frankly i'm scared to do it.

Seafoam?

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Ok, the 4.9 is NOT known for the cold carbon rap at all. But it is known for a #1 main bearing knock, that is probably what you are hearing, do a search for it. It is just a nuiscence, nothing more. The 4.9 is also known for detonation, you hear it doing about 30 to 60 with light pedal pressure, its due to a dirty EGR system or bad EGR valve, it can be cleaned if you feel you are experiencing detonation.

Have you checked for codes?, do you have a check engine light?

I dont think your drop in fuel efficiency is due to carbon build up. Drive it a little harder to clear it out.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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no i've only had one code on that car and it's for the low refrigerent message for my a/c, which i never use so i don't worry about it. in the five years i've had it that's the only code. it came on for about 10 seconds 3 winters ago, checked it, low refrigerant. and it's never ever came on again. it does work though, lights up every time i crank her up. is that odd. i know the light isn't supposed to come on for every little problem, but for the ones i'm experiencing you would think it should right?

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no i've only had one code on that car and it's for the low refrigerent message for my a/c, which i never use so i don't worry about it. in the five years i've had it that's the only code. it came on for about 10 seconds 3 winters ago, checked it, low refrigerant. and it's never ever came on again. it does work though, lights up every time i crank her up. is that odd. i know the light isn't supposed to come on for every little problem, but for the ones i'm experiencing you would think it should right?

Since you are relatively new here, I am going to tell you something. We are able to help you because there is a give and take of ideas. We are only as good as the information we get from you and your acting on/interpreting our words on your end. When one of us tries to help you or diagnose your problem, try to address our issues and stay on topic, and try not to pull extraineous information into the discussion, it helps the flow and interaction.

We deal with all levels of mechanical ability, knowledge, age groups, etc and it helps to be focused.

I would have expected you to ask me to explain, "the #1 main bearing knock", etc etc, which I believe you are hearing.

Or to explain the 4.6 cold carbon knock. The 4.6 can have the cold carbon knock because of the tight squish area, when carbon gets on top of the piston, it hits the squish area on the head, rocking the piston and causing the knock. Clean off the tops of the cylinder doing WOTs and the knock goes away. But this is NOT an issue with the 4.9 engine only the 4.6, where WOTs are beneficial. All engines benefit from hard acceleration, some more than others. I would say, punch it getting on to expressways a couple of times a week and use a bottle of Techron at oil changes.

or, no I dont think I have detonation

or, I JUST checked codes today, and only had code XXXX, nothing else.

The Check Engine light will come on when you turn on your key to the ON position, as a bulb check, but once the car starts it will go out. When it flashes or stays on, a code is set. Detonation will not set a code. When you check your codes you are mostly concerned with "P" codes (powertrain), but post all codes.

Understand I am not being critical above, I am trying to help you help yourself

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Oh I understand completely that you guys are only trying to help me. And I'm very grateful for that. What I don't understand is how I went off topic or how I brought extraineous information in, but sorry if I did, as you said I am relatively new here.

-The reason I didn't ask for you guys to explain the #1 main bearing knock is because I feel I am pretty familiar with it and that I know my car probably has it. It only appears when my car is fully warmed up, it's rhythmic with the engine's acceleration and disappears under the normal engine operation noise at around 25-30 miles per hour. Is that right?

-And I just assumed that my engine had carbon rap since I babied it for so long, that's why I asked you guys about it. But if it isn't carbon rap like you said, what could it be? :huh:

-And I do not have any codes, like I said that low refrigerant code is the only one I've ever had so that's a history code. When I said the light comes on when I start the car I only meant when the engine checks it for bulb function. So there's never a check engine light on in my car. Sorry if I confused anyone.

--But could you guys please explain detonation to me. As well as the cold knocking in the morning. Could both these sounds be the same thing? <_<

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My car had had cold knocking only in the winter time since I bought it with 77,000 miles on the clock. Made another 100,000 miles in ten years. The knocking lasted for less than a minute. The car did not have main bearing knock. The idle was rough, but I never could fix it. No powertrain codes. The transmission was perfect, the fuel economy was up to specs. At some point I just got tired of fixing this and that and bought a 1995 Fleetwood.

My advice - do not worry and just drive it. Drive a little bit harder.

Does the noise at 25-30 MPH audible only when the engine is hot (190- 230)? Can you hear it at the same speed then the car did not warm up yet?

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Oh I understand completely that you guys are only trying to help me. And I'm very grateful for that. What I don't understand is how I went off topic or how I brought extraineous information in, but sorry if I did, as you said I am relatively new here.

-The reason I didn't ask for you guys to explain the #1 main bearing knock is because I feel I am pretty familiar with it and that I know my car probably has it. It only appears when my car is fully warmed up, it's rhythmic with the engine's acceleration and disappears under the normal engine operation noise at around 25-30 miles per hour. Is that right?

-And I just assumed that my engine had carbon rap since I babied it for so long, that's why I asked you guys about it. But if it isn't carbon rap like you said, what could it be? :huh:

-And I do not have any codes, like I said that low refrigerant code is the only one I've ever had so that's a history code. When I said the light comes on when I start the car I only meant when the engine checks it for bulb function. So there's never a check engine light on in my car. Sorry if I confused anyone.

--But could you guys please explain detonation to me. As well as the cold knocking in the morning. Could both these sounds be the same thing? <_<

This was off topic and did not respond to what I had said, it was not clear if you checked for codes >>>, in the five years i've had it that's the only code. it came on for about 10 seconds 3 winters ago, checked it, low refrigerant. and it's never ever came on again. it does work though, lights up every time i crank her up. is that odd. i know the light isn't supposed to come on for every little problem, but for the ones i'm experiencing you would think it should right

I owned a 91 4.9 for 6 years and I had codes on and off, you must be blessed not to have a code in 5 years

While you might be getting a knock when its cold, its not the COLD CARBON KNOCK that the 4.6 is known for, the head and piston are very different.

What kind of oil are you using, viscosity?

Yes, that does sound like the #1 main bearing knock, usually when the engine is warm

Detonation is not related to the engine being cold, do a search here for detonation there is a ton of info.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Yes I guess I'm pretty lucky. I checked the codes again and the only one is the low refrigerant code in the history codes. And that's the only one ever.

And yes the cold knock has only been happening in the winter, and right now since it's colder out. Never hear it during warm weather. I start her up, and it knocks for about 5-10 seconds, it's never any longer than that.

The main bearing knock does appear only when the engine is completely warmed up. I don't know what temperature because my 91 doesn't have a temperature gauge. So no I don't here it all the time, only when the car is at normal operating temperature.

And I only use 10W-30, that's the only oil viscosity I've ever used in that car.

And I'll check up on that detonation, I've been hearing a lot about that lately.

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I don't know what temperature because my 91 doesn't have a temperature gauge. So no I don't here it all the time, only when the car is at normal operating temperature.

One of the best features of my 91 Seville was DIC - the driver info center, where you can get enormous volume of information. Not sure the 91 Deville is the same. Press ENG DATA (if you have such a button) several times until you see coolant temperature.

The easy way to confirm or eliminate the main bearing as a source of the knock is releasing carefully the tension on the accessory belt tensioner while engine is on. If it is the bearing knock it will disappear. Do that easy test, report here and we will go from there.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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