hiljak Posted June 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2004 I GOT IT OUT! I ended up using a drill bit to drill a whole next to the inner tube. Then I used my orriffice removal tool to dig into that whole and pull it out. The only problem is I gumed the wall of the line up a bit. I'm thinking maybe some rolled up 2000 grit sand paper to hone the walls of the line then flush with mineral sprirts. What do you think? The long end was definitely in first which I think is backwards. Can someone confirm this? I will get the suction gun a 5 gal bucket of mineral spirits tomorow and start flushing it out. I will also get a new dryer, and check the compressor oil for shavings. Does anyone know if GM warranty applies to a compressor ordered from GMParts direct? Thanks. James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 29, 2004 Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 Definitely remove any burrs in the ID of the evaporator tube. Depending on how bad it is burred, you may need to start with a coarser grade of sandpaper and polish with fine paper. You do not want a burr to nick the o-ring on the orifice tube during installation. The short end of the orifice tube should be installed toward the evaporator and the long end should be toward the condenser. Be sure to lube the o-ring on the orifice tube with some clean refrigerant oil prior to installation. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted June 29, 2004 Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 Do not lube any fittings or O-rings with PAG; use 525 viscosity mineral oil. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted June 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 Considereing that the new compressor was only engages while Caddy was evaluating the system, even if it does have evidense of some shavings, is it possible to flush the compressor out with mineral spirits to flush out any remaining shavings? I really dont want to deal with exchanging the compressor unless it is sure to go bad. James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 29, 2004 Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 If you find some shavings in the compressor, use refrigerant oil (PAG) to flush the compressor. It's hard to predict how long the compressor will last if you find shavings. KevinW is correct on the 525 mineral oil to lube the o-rings. I use a product called Nylog that is a gooey, snot-like substance made from refrigerant oil. When you complete this job, you should be able to tackle any A/C repair. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted June 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 KHE, Thats what I'm thinking. When I get this done, I'm going to open up an ac service shop Just kidding. I got the flush gun, 2 gallaons of mineral spirits, new oriffice tube, dryer, and PAG oil and am going to finish this tonight. I also baught a condensor expansion tube which I didn;t even know exisited but it was only $1.99 so what the hell. I'm confident that this is going to work, the only thing left to be bad is the condensor and maybe the new compressor. Shouldn;t the orrifice tube have stopped the shavings from hitting the compressor? We'll hope so. I really would like to vac the system down myself. Does any one know how to make your own vac pump? I have heard you can do it from an old fridge compressor. Anyone done it or know how? James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted June 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 Also, Has anyone used one of the venturi type vacuums? And when filling the system from a can, what is the propper procedure? Thanks. James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted June 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2004 Ok, There's a rental place that rents an ac vaccum for $14 for 24 hours. They said it has connections for r-12 but you can get an adapter at Autozone to connect it to r-134a. Sounds like a good deal. Can someone give me some guidance on vacuuming and charging the system (details please). I have a cheap guage/filler which hooks to the low side and I'm going to rent the vacuum pump from a tool rental shop. I'm not sure where the vacuum gets hooked too (high or low) and how much it is supposed to be vacced down. Also, after its vacced down, I've read to pull the negative battery to reset the computer but then do I want the car running (and compressor) when adding the coolant? Also, how much total coolant? Thanks. James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted June 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2004 Got everything done short of vacuuming and charging the system. Flushed and dried each component and no shavings at all in the compressor oil. There were, however, a few shavings in the oil I dumped out of the dryer. Oh well, I put a new one on anyways. When I baught my orrifice tube at the parts house, they sold me the evaporator core tube, and a condensor mount orrifice tube. They look about the same but I cannot find where the condensor mounted orrifice tube is. I flushed everything out and no tubes on the garage floor Really though, I'm thinking it's not an actual part present on my car (1995 STS). Can someone confirm this? Thanks. James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted June 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2004 I checked the manual (on cd and very inconvenient to use) and some body types have an orifice in the condensor rather than the evaporator. Also, in case anyone else was wondering, here is a cut from the manul on charging the system: CHARGING A/C SYSTEM NOTE: Manufacturer does not recommend using one-pound cans. Using a charging station will allow precise measurement of refrigerant charge. See the REFRIGERANT OIL SPECIFICATIONS tables in the A/C COMPRESSOR SERVICING article for system capacities. NOTE: DO NOT connect high-side gauge hose to high-side service port. Perform A/C charging service through low side only. 1) System must be evacuated before charging. With manifold gauge set connected (from evacuation procedure), start engine, but DO NOT turn on A/C. Connect refrigerant drum to hose on center connector of manifold gauge set. Invert refrigerant drum for liquid charging. Open low-side gauge valve on manifold gauge set. Allow 16 ounces of refrigerant to enter system. 2) When 16 ounces of refrigerant have entered system, turn A/C system to normal operating position with blower fan on high speed. Continue charging (liquid charging) until proper amount of refrigerant has entered system. 3) Close refrigerant drum valve, and continue running A/C system for 30 seconds to clear lines and gauges. Turn off valve on manifold gauge set. With engine running, disconnect low-side hose, and install service valve cap at accumulator. James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 30, 2004 Report Share Posted June 30, 2004 The only orifice tube used in your car is the one near the evaporator. The venturi type vacuum pumps won't pull a deep enough vacuum and will be hard on your shop air compressor as it will run continuously...best bet is to rent the vacuum pump. Your system takes 2.0 lbs of R-134a which equals 2-2/3 cans of R-134a. If this is not correct, someone please correct me. The label on your original accumulator should specify the amount of refrigerant. Be sure you can locate the adapter for R-134a. You will also need a gage manifold set. This must be for R-134a as well. The red hose connects to the high side, the blue hose connects to the low side and the yellow hose connects to the vacuum pump. Open all valves on the manifold set and turn the vacuum pump on. You will see the vacuum build on the gages. Let the pump run for a couple of hours. Then close the valves nearest to the gages. The vacuum reading (29" minus 1" for every 1000' above sea level) should hold for a minimum of 10 minutes. If so, you can charge the system. Attach the can tap to the refrigerant and then disconnect the yellow hose from the vacuum pump and connect it to the can tap. Using the can tap, pierce the can and and then "burp" the air from the yellow hose at the gage. (just loosen it slightly until a small amount of refrigerant leaks out and then tighten. Holding the can upside down, slowly open the low side valve nearest the gages and the refrigerant will begin filling the system. When the refrigerant can is empty, repeat with another can. When the system won't take any more refrigerant, start the car and turn on the A/C. The system will then pull in the remainder of the refrigerant. You can usually get 1 can into the system before you need to start the engine and turn on the A/C. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES OPEN THE HIGH PRESSURE VALVE NEAREST THE GAGES WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING OR THE CAN OF REFRIGERANT WILL EXPLODE. One pound cans of refrigerant do not exist... they are 12 oz for R-134a. I've never had any trouble charging with cans with this method. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted July 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 Well, the system is now charged and working spectacularly. It is cold as well digger's *smurf*. Thanks to all for the help in making me a junior a/c guru (at leaset for the Nothstar) I love this place. James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 1, 2004 Report Share Posted July 1, 2004 Hopefully, the well digger is in the knondike... Glad to hear your repair was successful! Aren't you glad you didn't pay the dealer to replace the evaporator? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiljak Posted July 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2004 Yes very, I wrote them a letter and they are refunding half of my money for "good faith effort" to make happy. Whatever, I'll take back what I can get. I asked the service manager straight out, "can you honestly tell me that your techs have never heard of an orrifice removal tool?" He said no. What a crock. KHE, a/c is still ice cold but now (just noticed today) I am getting a whistling sound from the air box area when accerating (must be moving). The pitch of the whistle changes with the shift of the trans. It's starts at about 25 to mph. Ever heard of this? I have removed, checked, and reinstalled the air box (what a loose piece of crap!) and that didn't seem to do it. Also, the stupid ISC motor is ratcheting again (about 1,000 miles or so it was doing it and I cleaned the trottlebody which fixed it) but this time it's not a dirty throttle body. I will see if the bolt-arm can be extended anymore, but I may just replace it. Let me know what you think on the whistle sound (really sounds like I have a wooden wistle straped to the front end) James 1999 STS 65k 1995 STS 127k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 7, 2004 Report Share Posted July 7, 2004 Hmmmmm.......If the tech did not hear of an orifice removal tool.... he must have been sleeping through the training class... Glad to hear you confronted the dealership with your findinings... I was going to suggest that to you eariler. Don't know what would cause the whistling - possibly some debris in the air intake by the wipers??? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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