How to prepare for the winter and General concerns

[ryanlongmire24]

I have a 1998 Cadillac STS:

I just bought it from a guy in Detroit I live in lansing but Im from MS but I go to law school here in lansing

The car uses some oil but I am currently tracking it and will relay that info when Ever i get the stats.

I was wondering what can I do to better prepare this car for the winter:

114k miles

Just purchased:

plugs, wires, air filter.

the previous owner said he did the breaks but they grind when you hit them and if you pump them they dont

make that noise [what is that about?] the change break light comes on.. How do i get that fixed.

Also, the serivce suspension message comes on [the previous owner said he changed the struts out and stuff but the message

appears on there but it drives great like he really did change them.

What could I do to this car to better prepare it for the weather and to make sure it is running in top notch since i plan to take it back to

ms in december.

Also, how many times should i do the WOT procedure to make sure the sludge is out of the valves and pistons.

I thank any and all for their time and help:

Please if you can give me any additional info or adivice me to a place or link were I can get this car running great with little or no money

I would be gratful [i can do basic work myself so as long as it is not breaking into the engine i can do it as long as i got something to show me

how to do it]

again thanks to all....

[Ranger]

Change the coolant (50/50 Dex-Cool and distilled water). WOT once a week or as the desire occurs.

[ryanlongmire24]

I just bought the coolent today and I changed out the plugs and wires and did the WOT so i hope that will improve the car.... Also, if the compressor for the ac has been changed what else could cause it not to blow cold.... How high is it to take to a shop non-cadillac or cadillac to get it fixed... I LOVE MY AIR...

[JimD]

I have a 1998 Cadillac STS:....

the previous owner said he did the breaks but they grind when you hit them and if you pump them they dont

make that noise [what is that about?] the change break light comes on.. How do i get that fixed.

If your brakes are "grinding" when applied, you are costing yourself money by continuing to drive it without repairs.

The grinding indicates the brake pads are worn to the point you have undesireable metal to metal contact at one or more wheels.

And if you mean the CHANGE BRAKE PADS message is displayed, that is confirming that one or more of your brake pads are worn beyond service limits.

Also, the serivce suspension message comes on [the previous owner said he changed the struts out and stuff but the message

appears on there but it drives great like he really did change them.

There will be Diagnostic Trouble Codes stored in your vehicle's system modules. The struts might have been replaced with aftermarket parts or some electrical connector(s) were not attached. We need the trouble codes and here is how to display them;

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

The best thing you could do right now - as in immediately - is repair the brakes.

[ryanlongmire24]

The thing is the pads look good besides for the corners of the pad that are being ate away... I'm about to do the codes and will post as soon as i get them... Thank you for the help

[ryanlongmire24]

ABS- C1288[c]

AMP- B1327, U1301, U1128, U1064,

SDM- B1141

RSS- C1721[h], C1722, C1726, C1727[c], C1738[c], C1760[c], C1761[c]

didn't get a chance to write which ones were current or history but these are the ones that i did get to write whether they are

C or H..... sorry guys....

The ones with [c] current [h] history...

At the last minute I figured I should write down history or current..

Again my bad for erasing them...

[JimD]

ABS- C1288[c]

AMP- B1327, U1301, U1128, U1064,

SDM- B1141

RSS- C1721[h], C1722, C1726, C1727[c], C1738[c], C1760[c], C1761[c]

didn't get a chance to write which ones were current or history but these are the ones that i did get to write whether they are

C or H..... sorry guys....

The ones with [c] current [h] history...

At the last minute I figured I should write down history or current..

Again my bad for erasing them...

All of those "C" (Chassis) codes are steering you toward some suspension component issues or associated wiring problems. If your car has lived most of its life in MI winters, there is no way to know what you might find. And then there is the issue of not knowing what parts the previous owner had installed.

However; the B1327 code provides some hope. B1327 tells you the car's system voltage has fallen to 9 Volts or less which can mean the battery is or has failed at some point possibly requiring a jump start.

The good news is clearing all the codes is not necessarily bad news. When the system voltage drops to or below 9 Volts, all the vehicle modules become unreliable which will result in "false" trouble codes.

So.... after you repair the brake grinding issue, you should drive the car for a few days and display the codes again, paying attention to "C" codes.

[ryanlongmire24]

I am going to do the brakes tomorrow... Should i replace rotors since one on here are severly rusted out.... Also he said he replaced the battery could that be why the battery code is displayed because the dude half assed the car and I could tell so I know he never took the time to look into stuff like me... but the display says volts are 14 which is good so i assume that that message was history and not current [unless that is not what history means] I do thank you for the help and I will be posting early tomorrow that I did put the brakes on but let me know if I should get the rotors.

As with the other codes code it be the sensors that were not installed like the brakes and struts and all of that... is there a diagram that I could see to show me were they all are [also]

What do I need to do to this car to make sure it last as far as these codes go and just normal service...

[Ranger]

Also, if the compressor for the ac has been changed what else could cause it not to blow cold.

Air mix door actuator stuck open. Refrigerant leaked out. First step is to look for a low refrigerant code or see if the compressor engages when the A/C is turned on.

is there a diagram that I could see to show me were they all are

A FSM will have all that and more. You would be well advised to get one if you are going to do your own maintenance. Get one by Helm Inc, NOT Chiltons or Haynes. Ebay is your friend.

[ryanlongmire24]

what is fsm??????? how do I know if a door is stuck open and also the guy i bought it from said it blew for couple days and then stopped so how do i go about finding the leak......? The motor quarters is a tight spot for real I can barely get into stuff.... so how could i actuallly find a small ac leak????

[ryanlongmire24]

I just test drove car no noise or anything.... but the messages for service suspesion system is still there and change brake pads is still there.... how to get rid of that message... Also, on the passenger side the wire with the clamp that attaches to the inside brake pad was broke so i spliced the wires back together could that cause the brake message... If not what do i need to go buy

Thanks again for all the assistance....

[JimD]

... Also, on the passenger side the wire with the clamp that attaches to the inside brake pad was broke so i spliced the wires back together could that cause the brake message... If not what do i need to go buy ..

You are looking for an "open" circuit in those brake pad wear sensors. An open circuit triggers the CHANGE BRAKE PADS message. The circuit could be open somewhere you can easily see the damage (as above) or the circuit could be open inside the wear sensor at another wheel position. An Ohmeter will tell you in a heart beat but you will have to guess at which wheel position to check next.

Worst case is you will be buying one or more pad wear sensors.

[ryanlongmire24]

... Also, on the passenger side the wire with the clamp that attaches to the inside brake pad was broke so i spliced the wires back together could that cause the brake message... If not what do i need to go buy ..

You are looking for an "open" circuit in those brake pad wear sensors. An open circuit triggers the CHANGE BRAKE PADS message. The circuit could be open somewhere you can easily see the damage (as above) or the circuit could be open inside the wear sensor at another wheel position. An Ohmeter will tell you in a heart beat but you will have to guess at which wheel position to check next.

Worst case is you will be buying one or more pad wear sensors.

I dont under stand what you mean...? Could you explain a little better... When i changed the pads there was two connectors on the inside of tire wall they were clamped together are those two things the sensors or is one for brakes and other for suspension.... Let me know if you understand what I am talking about...

[ryanlongmire24]

here are the new and current codes:

RSS= c1722, c1727, c1738, c1760, c1761....

The others are saying no problem.....

Still have no a/c and I have checked the fuses and relays its all good so I wonder what it could be pending the orginal owner actually replaced the ac compressor but I dont think I hear it coming on but it could be my lack of experience.....

[ryanlongmire24]

also i get the message speed limited to 90 MPH??????????????????

I just found out what these codes mean now to find out how to fix them:

All C codes RSS:

1722= left rear damper actuator open circuit

1727= right rear damper actuator open circuit

1738= exhaust soleniod valce short to ground

1760= left front postion sensor imput fault

1761= right front position sensor imput fault

Let me know if you have any suggestions

[Ranger]

what is fsm???????

Factory Service Manual

All those codes are for the suspension. You need to replace the very expensive electronic struts to get rid of that message or replace them with passive struts and wire a resistor into the line to turn off the message. Also the front position sensors.

The exhaust valve message is related to the ELC (Electronic Level Control). It is obviously not working.

This car needs some expensive work.

[ryanlongmire24]

Factory Service Manual

All those codes are for the suspension. You need to replace the very expensive electronic struts to get rid of that message or replace them with passive struts and wire a resistor into the line to turn off the message. Also the front position sensors.

The exhaust valve message is related to the ELC (Electronic Level Control). It is obviously not working.

This car needs some expensive work.

How much are the struts? ALSO if he replaced all of these already and the car drives and handles great does it matter if I don't replace them with the eletronic ones????

Were is the ELC and how much does that run can I replace that myself????

How expensive are we talking....

[Ranger]

If the struts have been replaced you can leave them alone and just live with the message and codes if you want.

ELC compressor is under the rear of the car.

I have no idea of prices or your skill level.

[ryanlongmire24]

average skill level; no enternal engine or other like that just basic and average skills...

Is the ELC compressor dealing with the struts [air shocks/struts] or does it deal with something that is important

[Cadillac Jim]

The ELC compressor is the actuator for the air shocks on the rear. It isn't part of the RSS or stability control, but if it's out for long enough the rear of the car will ride low. I don't know what replacement shocks that aren't ELC would look like unless they are Monroe Load-Levelers that have additional springs on the shocks that make up for the missing air bags and approximate typical load conditions.

[ryanlongmire24]

I don't quite understand???? So you saying that my car should have this reguardless of after market shocks...?

Were can I buy the ELC at I can't seem to find it online

[Ranger]

All Cadillacs have ELC. The rear shocks have an air bladder that the compressor pumps up to level the car.

[Cadillac Jim]

I'm sure that you could get aftermarket rear shocks that don't have electronically variable damping or level control. These would have supplementary springs on them to provide the support that the air bags provide in a "typical" setting. How you would disable all the PZM codes and alerts is another thing.

The life of the shocks is about 100,000 miles. I have driven my car has 140,000+ miles with the original shocks. The key feaure that you would disable if you don't get electronic damping control is disabling of Stabilitrak. If the car detects this, you will get a message every time you turn on the key "STABILITY REDUCED" followed by "SPEED REDUCED TO 90 MPH." If you fool the computer, you need to replace the struts too and make sure that all four corners have enough damping to ensure stability at high speeds. After all, 80 mph is second gear in a Cadillac.

There will be people here who have done that, and can tell you how. My personal preference is to keep all my Cadillac's features operational, particularly Stabilitrak. Electronic stability control is more important for overall safety than air bags, seat belts, and everything else combined, according to an article about insurance company statistics I read about a year ago. The DOT is thinking about requiring it on all cars sold in the US. Then, there's the Cadillac ride and handling, a combination you can't get without electronic damping control. All of it works best when the car is perfectly level. And, the OEM rear shocks aren't *that* expensive. I have heard more understandable cries of pain about the price of the struts, though. I''m not at all sure that I would be driving a 1998 Vette as my daily driver for 15+ years, and I still love my Cadillac.

[ryanlongmire24]

I priced the front ones and they are like 500 a piece that is crazy... How about some good used struts and shocks..?

[Cadillac Jim]

The OEM shocks are far less expensive than the struts. Get Monroe; I believe that they are the OEM for the AD/Delco rear shocks (and the struts!) and they are a little cheaper than the best price you can get for AC/Delco OEM shocks. I think that OEM-spec Monroe is an affordable way to go for the rear. I haven't focused on the front as much as the rear but I do think that Monroe OEM spec will likely also turn out the be the most affordable way for the front, too, to keep RSS and Stabilitrak happy and working well. A less expensive way that some users report works well for them is to use Monroe struts without electronic damping control and put resistors on the connectors to keep RSS and Stabilitrak happy; this is OK because these struts have constant damping at the stiffer setting all the time.

Of course, I'm assuming that you are going to drive the car, want to be able to take it on the freeway and on trips if the occasion arises, the wife and kids will notice if the ride is funny, etc. If all you want to do is get around town for a few months until you send the car to the scrapyard, then, it doesn't matter. I'm assuming that people come to Caddyinfo most often because they want the car fixed, not patched with a bunch of stuff including safety items disabled and the PCM limiting WOT to 2nd gear to keep the car on the pavement. But that's just me. My car is middle-aged at 12 years and 140,000 miles and I keep it Autobahn-ready because I bought the car for performance and safety and I plan to continue to drive it into the far mists of the future.

Another group of users that have come here replace the suspension and stabilizer bushings with nylon aftermarket parts, stiffen the spring rates, and put Koni or other high-performance dampers on, front and rear, and use high-performance ultra-low-profile tires on special wheels to give their STS or ETC a Reebok-like agility and dead-flat responsive zero-lean cornering that is traction limited, i.e. real GT or rally-car performance. Of course, you don't need RSS, leveling, or Stabilitrak in a rally-ready car because all its handling and stability capabilities are fully ready right at the curb.

I kind of like the idea of a real GT suspension on my ETC, but my wife might complain about the ride. And, after all, it is my daily driver. I have a Suzuki Bandit 1200S that has an 0-60 mph time of 2.7 seconds if I want more performance, and I don't have room in my garage for that used LS-1 Vette for sale down the block. We all make compromises; I bought my ETC from a dealer that I visited to make an offer on a Vette.