A/C will not work

[^Tom^]

hi all

my AC will not work.

but there are no error codes in current or history.

FUSE and RELAY from AC is OK.

CLUTCH will working too if i jumper it at the relay.

i am confiused; the FAN(s) also do not start if the AC at ON position.

any ideas what i have to look for?

is it possible that anyway i have low pressure at the system?

thanks

tom

1999 STS

[BodybyFisher]

Check for codes that are set

Go to the top of this page, click how to, then DTC codes, follow directions for your year and post codes here

Its also possible that your HVAC fan is bad also, they are known to go bad from EMF generated by the ignition wires

[^Tom^]

Check for codes that are set

Go to the top of this page, click how to, then DTC codes, follow directions for your year and post codes here

Its also possible that your HVAC fan is bad also, they are known to go bad from EMF generated by the ignition wires

- there are no error codes in current or history

what is the "HVAC fan"?

[BodybyFisher]

The problem you have is that the compressor is not coming on, PLUS your fan is not coming on, it appears to be a two fold problem you have

Low pressure will stop the compressor from engaging, but the fan will continue to run

You are able to JUMP the compressor on, but your fan does not come on.

The FAN is located in the center of the firewall just below the cowl, the fan is known to go bad, I am not sure why your compressor wont engage, you should be getting a code

[^Tom^]

The problem you have is that the compressor is not coming on, PLUS your fan is not coming on, it appears to be a two fold problem you have

Low pressure will stop the compressor from engaging, but the fan will continue to run

You are able to JUMP the compressor on, but your fan does not come on.

The FAN is located in the center of the firewall just below the cowl, the fan is known to go bad, I am not sure why your compressor wont engage, you should be getting a code

i see we taking about different fan's.

the cooling fan(s) in front of the engine does not start if AC in ON position.

the blower fan is 100% correkt working and blow (in this case) normal temp. air but at maximum if it hot outside (normal when de AC isn't working).

i have only a 1996 shop-manual, so some thing the same, but of corse not all.

yes, i have really no error code about high or low AC pressure.....

if i jumper the AC clutch, the clutch will engage and so the AC compressor will work, but still no cold air inside the car is blowing out.

tom

[BodybyFisher]

Hmm, that is interesting, Ill look at my manual or the scans I have on Photoshop, I am sure these two issues are related

[joeb]

if you force the compressor to run and the cooling fans do not run you will not remove any heat from the condenser and get reduced or little cooling when the hot refrigerant gets to the evaporator. i have a freon leak too. i try and switch on a/c and it will not engage the compressor. i am not sure if i even get a stored "low a/c pressure" message anymore. i can add freon and the system will run but i am waiting to change out the compressor again. i would start with a pressure check? do you have access to a gauge set? or get a cheap a/c refill bottle that comes with the built in gauge.

[^Tom^]

if you force the compressor to run and the cooling fans do not run you will not remove any heat from the condenser and get reduced or little cooling when the hot refrigerant gets to the evaporator. i have a freon leak too. i try and switch on a/c and it will not engage the compressor. i am not sure if i even get a stored "low a/c pressure" message anymore. i can add freon and the system will run but i am waiting to change out the compressor again. i would start with a pressure check? do you have access to a gauge set? or get a cheap a/c refill bottle that comes with the built in gauge.

i am just back from refilling the A/C system.

and now:

the system was nearly empty and now refilled and it's working perfekt now!

also the cooling fan's running now at low speed if the A/C on.

i can't understand why was/is no trouble code in the system for low-pressure!

but the PCM did know it, otherwise the colling fan's whould start and the AC clutch not.

now both is working.

thanks

tom

[joeb]

why was it low? a small minority of cars loose there charge over time. a refill gets them going. the vast majority of cars have a leak and they recharge and soon after the system is low again. we will wait for your next message.

[Ranger]

the system was nearly empty and now refilled and it's working perfekt now!

And no DTC's. Very strange indeed.

[Cadillac Jim]

I think he may have been using a code reader. Most of those only read PCM codes that relate to emissions requirements. Some of them only read codes that turn on the MIL light.

To get all the OBD codes, follow the instructons on the Caddyinfo How To page. Click on "caddyinfo.com" on the upper left corner of this page, then "How To" in the big red navigation bar on the top of that page, then scroll down and click "Reading Self-Diagnostic Codes." Have a pencil and paper ready.

[BodybyFisher]

Good point Jim we have to see how he was checking for codes

[^Tom^]

I think he may have been using a code reader. Most of those only read PCM codes that relate to emissions requirements. Some of them only read codes that turn on the MIL light.

i did'nt say anything like that.

i read all trouble codes from my digital instrument cluster direkt.

so, if there no code if i ask for all codes, then is no code present eighter on in curent or history.

@And no DTC's. Very strange indeed.

no, not one!

@why was it low? a small minority of cars loose there charge over time. a refill gets them going. the vast majority of cars have a leak and they recharge and soon after the system is low again. we will wait for your next message.

i dont know it.

i will see it and if it goes away i know it is only the 134a and nothing else.

the car is from 1999 and only 8'500 miles on it.

the first 5000 miles are completet until end of year 2000.

so arround 400 miles left per year.

tom

[Cadillac Jim]

No one is saying that you said anything; please forgive any misunderstanding. We are working on the basis of short text messages, and what is *not* said can be folded into puzzled inference. Again, please forgive any misunderstandings and let's go forward with finding and fixing the problem.

There is one that should have shown:

ACM P1544 HISTORY

or some related code. The example is

P1544 A/C Refrigerant Condition Very Low

Other possibilities include

P1536 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - Air Conditioning (A/C) Disabled

P1547 A/C System Performance Degraded

Also, if your Check Engine Soon light came on, another code was set.

One thing that can reset all of the codes and just leave a couple of innocent ones is to disconnect the battery. Have you done that to get the car going again? If this comes up again, check the codes before you disconnect the battery.

[^Tom^]

No one is saying that you said anything; please forgive any misunderstanding. We are working on the basis of short text messages, and what is *not* said can be folded into puzzled inference. Again, please forgive any misunderstandings and let's go forward with finding and fixing the problem.

There is one that should have shown:

ACM P1544 HISTORY

or some related code. The example is

P1544 A/C Refrigerant Condition Very Low

Other possibilities include

P1536 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - Air Conditioning (A/C) Disabled

P1547 A/C System Performance Degraded

Also, if your Check Engine Soon light came on, another code was set.

One thing that can reset all of the codes and just leave a couple of innocent ones is to disconnect the battery. Have you done that to get the car going again? If this comes up again, check the codes before you disconnect the battery.

sorry, that i missunderstood it.

my english is not best, so i try to write and read as best as i can.

since two weeks i am the new owner of this car.

what happens befor i do not know it. the owner died and left some cars left.

during my test-drive i regsitered that the AC not work.

i drived home and parked in my garage.

two days lather i check the car by erros codes etc.

(after 30 minutes the car wasn't starting the battery had only 12 volt and no starter turning)

so i changed the batterie, but bevor i wrote down the trouble codes:

they was:

B1147

B1327

B1328

P0603

P1189

U1064

U1300

(in order as the trouble code list)

after i replaced the battery (and cleared all codes) only one code was comming again:

P1189

two days ago i changed the engine oil with my prefered engine oil (10W40 semi syntetic) as i also used for 80'000 mile in my 1996 sts (and other US-cars like trans-am gta) without any problem.

now also the P1189 was not comming (set) as i drove today.

the service soon lamp was never lighting.

all the codes listed have nothing to do with the A/C?

also the question; does the low pressure code set only ones and never again until the pressure is (was) normal?

tom

[joeb]

only 3500 miles from 2000 till 2009? a super low mileage car like that is probably in great shape. do mention of your location? what state or country? how much did you pay if you don't mind saying?

[^Tom^]

only 3500 miles from 2000 till 2009? a super low mileage car like that is probably in great shape. do mention of your location? what state or country? how much did you pay if you don't mind saying?

yes; the car is very close like new. newer drove in wet condition or even in salt. not any inside, all documents, valet keys still in the car and keys also lokking like new.

if i have time tomorrow i will do some pics. the stay outside since two days and some cats like to claim it......will see what pics it give.

i am from switzerland ( a country with 200 miles in diameter) so the state not so important (but we have 24 of them..or 25?).

price is not the problem, but exchange rates are difficult.

i whould say something beetwen 10'000 and 14'000 USD.

i think it is a fair price;

in switerland cars have usually 99% of all options you can have.

so this car have extra:

wood at steering and drive......

chrom wells

how do you say........glas window in the roof

6 CD changer

adaptive seat

radio/CD/cass with 8 speaker

what it not have

cell phone

massage seat

mini-disk

i think more options was'nt possible

for me; best deal i ever did.

tom

[Cadillac Jim]

Excellent! Here are the interpretations from my personal list:

B1147 Driver Side Air Bag System Malfunction

B1327 Vehicle system voltage below 9.0 volts

B1328 Vehicle system voltage is greater than 15.9 volts

P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset

P1189 Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit

U1064 Loss of Communications with DIM

U1300 Class 2 Short to Ground

The B1327 and P0603 codes are from the battery being low or from disconnecting the battery. The fact that you have a B1327 means that other codes can exist which don't mean much because the computers might not have been working properly. Basically the B1327 means that you can take all the rest with a grain of salt.

I don't like the B1328 code. The only way the system can see over 15.9 Volts is for a fast charger to be put on the battery while it's still in the car. That risks blowing out the electronics on any car. One should ALWAYS remove the battery cables before applying a fast charger. Also, never jump start a 12 Volt car with an 18 Volt or 24 Volt battery from a diesel or lighting system. This can blow out everything. Apparently this was done to get the battery up to get the car to the estate sale or some such, so don't worry about that now. The car is obviously OK except for some cobweb issues.

The P1189 means that the oil pressure switch is unplugged. If someone changed the oil and filter they may have knocked off the connector to the oil pressure switch. It is on the adapter that the oil filter screws into. This will likely turn on your Check Engine Soon light.

If that is all, and you have no other issues, then you are good to go. I would make sure that the oil and antifreeze are fresh, check the belts and hoses, etc. and then enjoy the car. Congratulations on a fabulous find.

[^Tom^]

Excellent! Here are the interpretations from my personal list:

B1147 Driver Side Air Bag System Malfunction

B1327 Vehicle system voltage below 9.0 volts

B1328 Vehicle system voltage is greater than 15.9 volts

P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset

P1189 Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit

U1064 Loss of Communications with DIM

U1300 Class 2 Short to Ground

The air bag code, B1147, may be due to someone trying to disable the air bags or working on the steering column without hooking things back up. This is a big safety item and I would look into it after we get the stalling problem fixed.

The B1327 and P0603 codes are from the battery being low or from disconnecting the battery. The fact that you have a B1327 means that other codes can exist which don't mean much because the computers might not have been working properly.

I don't like the B1328 code. The only way the system can see over 15.9 Volts is for a fast charger to be put on the battery while it's still in the car. That risks blowing out the electronics on any car. One should ALWAYS remove the battery cables before applying a fast charger. Also, never jump start a 12 Volt car with an 18 Volt or 24 Volt battery from a diesel or lighting system. This can blow out everything. Apparently this was done to get the battery up to get the car to the estate sale or some such, so don't worry about that now. The car is obviously OK except for some cobweb issues.

The P1189 means that the oil pressure switch is unplugged. If someone changed the oil and filter they may have knocked off the connector to the oil pressure switch. It is on the adapter that the oil filter screws into. This will likely turn on your Check Engine Soon light.

Since you did see a B1328 code and now you seem to have a problem with the radio, I would start checking fuses. My car is too different from your car for me to tell you where to look, but my fuses are under a plastic cover on the driver's side on the inside of the front fender well, and in the trunk behind the felt cover on the rear of the back seat.. Someone else with a FSM applicable to 1998-up Seville?

thanks for exlpain me all the things.

i am looking forward whats comming in trouble codes next.

but i lokks as was it just the defective battery was produce all or some of the codes and not more.

after i installes the new battery since 200 miles was only the oil pressure switch comming again and since i changed the oil it lokks also goot to me.

don't worry, i know about battery charging and sources i have.

i changed the oil and filter and was looking for the oil pressure switch; i think it is the switch above the motor mount in the middle and access is very diffucult to do there something without you wood realize it. i could'nt disconect it, but it was looking ok and togehter.

fuse boxes are the same in your cadi as it was in my 1996. one in front and one in the trunk.

the 1999 have one in the front and one under the rear seat (where also the battery is sitting).

yes high voltage are not really good and the question: where they comming from.

i have to see what is going now, even i do not know what the preowner did (or his family after he died).

maybe it was a fast 12volt charging system that start charging start with 16 volt.....for 1 minute or so.

or just one time a peek of someting like electricity from a human.

radio problems? i do not have any.

tom

[^Tom^]

antifreeze are fresh, check the belts and hoses

belts and hoses are like new (i know......they 10 years old, but anyway)

the antifreeze ........ i will change it as soond as i can.....but access to the lower radiator hose does not like easy for me at the 1999

tabs: i have left

[joeb]

switzerland? ahh. europe. we have a few folks from europe on this board. jan, comes to mind. i guess cars imported into europe can have huge price variations. usually always higher though. parts are very pricey also. i assume labor is whatever the local garages want to charge. i am sure you don't see many cars of your vintage on the road.

[^Tom^]

switzerland? ahh. europe. we have a few folks from europe on this board. jan, comes to mind. i guess cars imported into europe can have huge price variations. usually always higher though. parts are very pricey also. i assume labor is whatever the local garages want to charge. i am sure you don't see many cars of your vintage on the road.

yes europe but not with the EC (european cummunity).....it is the island in it.

here is the URL from my car site:

http://www.hasag.info/privat/tom/cars/

just click at the pics from the 1999 and you will see more pics in high resolution.

(car was outside 3 days......)

enjoy

tom

[Texas Jim]

here is the URL from my car site:

http://www.hasag.info/privat/tom/cars/

just click at the pics from the 1999 and you will see more pics in high resolution.

(car was outside 3 days......)

enjoy

tom

Very nice pictures.

Thanks.

[Ranger]

Tom, low voltage will set all sorts of false codes. That may be the reason for all those coves.

From your description, I think the sensor you where looking at is the oil level sensor. The oil pressure switch is on the oil filter adapter.

[^Tom^]

Tom, low voltage will set all sorts of false codes. That may be the reason for all those coves.

From your description, I think the sensor you where looking at is the oil level sensor. The oil pressure switch is on the oil filter adapter.

i am not worry about all the codes exept the 1189 was stored again.

i will check and lookinmg for the right sensor again.

is the oil-level sensor not at the oil-pan and goes straight in a straight in direction to the front of the car?

(oil-pressure switch look to the left front whell?)

tom

edit: now i am confiused

i unpluged and plugeld the oil-press connector

i checked the codes again, but no code in it.

(so there was no code to clear)

now i wll see what happend next trip.

good news A/C still working......

about prices; maybe it is the best to say prices compare to the new price here

so my price was 1/6 of the new price

in USD arround 8'000