woody Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 Don't know what happen. I went to stat the old girl and there is nothing. It won't even jump. I think it may be the main ground from the engine to the battery. Both cables are tight. I was having the code 54 stability and ABS problem but don't think that would do it. I need a starting point. Any ideas. Thx Woody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 Don't know what happen. I went to stat the old girl and there is nothing. It won't even jump. I think it may be the main ground from the engine to the battery. Both cables are tight. I was having the code 54 stability and ABS problem but don't think that would do it. I need a starting point. Any ideas. Thx Woody Pull the battery connections off and clean the cable ends, make sure you take the positive end apart Load test the battery Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted September 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 Mike, I did that about a week ago but will do it again. Maybe I just need to replace the entire cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 Load test the battery Concur. Especially once a battery has been drained in my experience they tend to have a short life. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted September 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 Thank gentlemen looks like a cable and battery might be needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 Thank gentlemen looks like a cable and battery might be needed Follow the positive cable over to the relay center and make sure its tight, there is a 10 MM bolt that secures it. Also check the ground to make sure that acid from the battery did not corrode its connection to the frame Definately check the battery however, I had one just go, and when they go, THEY GO Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted September 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Mike, I did take apart the two positive terminal and claen them along with the negative. The negative was fine and I still need to replace the positive bolt as it only has a couple of threads left probably not allowing full torque to hold it tight. The car did start after that which was a good thing. I had the battery load tested and its fine. I will also check the relay center bolt and the negative and look for corrosion. Funny thing the code 54 went away for a dat and now its back. I still need to clean the chassis ground and see if that clears it. Woody (Dave) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 The problem was probably corrosion interfering with the connection on your positive cable, that connection was hampered by the fact that your bolt had few threads also from corrosion. I try to clean my cables at the beginning of the winter and the beginning of the summer. Watch your battery for leakage of electrolyte it will do lots of damage. I replaced my bolt also Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 There are three cables sandwiched in the positive cable, and the bolt only contacts one of them. They are the starter, the alternator, and the car main Maxifuse block. Jumping the car usually means clamping to the bolt. Apparently the starter isn't the top layer (deepest in the red plastic). Each of the other two can become completely insulated by layers of green-and-white powder and crystals between the copper terminals and between the bottom copper terminal and the battery. I replace my battery cable in 2003 (my car is a 1997) and I believe that the replacement cable crimped all the cables into one terminal instead of sandwiching three terminals. I don't recall for sure. Anyone with a 2004 or newer car should have the same cable that I got in 2003, though, so please chime in if you have a newer car or cable and know for sure. I'm unwilling to jog the battery/cable demons by poking at mine. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted September 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Jim, Thanks for the info. So I assume this is a dealer only replacement item? And it sounds like they combined all into one if I read correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 21, 2009 Report Share Posted September 21, 2009 Jim, Thanks for the info. So I assume this is a dealer only replacement item? And it sounds like they combined all into one if I read correct. I got the impression that your car is starting now, is that correct? I was under the impression that the BOLT that had only a few threads on it, was replaced and now its starting is that correct? Between those cables is a LEAD (as in the material its made of) lug (#3 below), that contacts the two terminals and the bolt sandwiches them together. Number 6 is the protective cap There is no need to replace the cables as a matter of fact its a HELL of a job as you need to route one all the way across the carriage to the relay center and the other to the starter under the intake. If she is running, I'd leave it alone, I was able to purchase one of those lead lugs also. To me cleaning the positive cable twice a year is a good preventative Is is starting? Here is what you should have had Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted October 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Miker, I did replace the battery bolt and cleaned to leads. The car starts fine now. I took it to my mechanic and we cleaned the main ground on the trans but it did not clear the code 54 for the ABS. He thinks it is still a connection and not the actual ABS module or pump. We are going to do some wire tracing this Sat. He works at GM and is gringing home some special wire harness. More to come. Woody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Miker, I did replace the battery bolt and cleaned to leads. The car starts fine now. I took it to my mechanic and we cleaned the main ground on the trans but it did not clear the code 54 for the ABS. He thinks it is still a connection and not the actual ABS module or pump. We are going to do some wire tracing this Sat. He works at GM and is gringing home some special wire harness. More to come. Woody Thats great Woody, Ill post anything I can find. Let us know how it goes Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Ok here is the outcome. Went to my mechanics shop and we started at 9:00am. Got the car up on the rack and first had to remove some of the guarding to be able to get to the wires for the ABS module. Boy they don't give you much room. We started with the negative ground on the module. This ground is part of the unit as there is no body ground due to the rubber grommets to keep if from road noise and vibration. It was clean but we surgicaly cleaned it the nut and bolt and put it back together. We then started on the power source. We pulled the main bar connector after removing the metal locking device (Which is to hard to access from the top) and we got all good meter readings, put the connector back. Dropped the car to put his GM code box in and ran a series of tests on some of the previous codes. Everything passed. I was standing in front of the car on the drivers side and heard a puff. I asked and he said that was the module bringing it up to pressure and releasing. I said I don't get that lucky. We ran the test 2 more times. No codes or lights. I think it may have been the ground. Been driving it and no problems. Even a blind chicken gets some corn once in a while...... Finished at 10:30am and no charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 In reviewing this thread, I missed a question from September 21 in which you asked if the battery cable was a dealer-only item. For those not prepared to make their own battery cables, yes of course you can get AC/Delco quality battery cables from your Cadillac dealer. The resourceful can make their own. The battery bolt is another matter, unless you have a rather amazing home workshop that includes a lathe with thread-cutting capabilities and make your own custom bolts. The positive battery cable is three cables. One goes to the starter solenoid, which is on the starter which is in turn located under the intake manifold. That's not too easy to get to because you have to pop the manifold but that's not a very big job and the manifold gaskets are re-usable. Another cable runs behind the lower radiator mount on top of the debris shield across to the MaxiFuse block below and behind the air cleaner, and is the main power line for the car itself. It's probably the easiest of the three to place and hook up. The third cable is to the alternator positive terminal, and is the most difficult because of the placement of the alternator, which is low to access cool air running under the car, and the placement of the terminal, which is hard to get a wrench on. Another problem is that unless you get *two* wrenches on the positive terminal, you are sure to spin the bolt, which I did when I tried to replace the cable myself. Congratulations on your success, and thanks for posting the results for our future reference. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 5, 2009 Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Ok here is the outcome. Went to my mechanics shop and we started at 9:00am. Got the car up on the rack and first had to remove some of the guarding to be able to get to the wires for the ABS module. Boy they don't give you much room. We started with the negative ground on the module. This ground is part of the unit as there is no body ground due to the rubber grommets to keep if from road noise and vibration. It was clean but we surgicaly cleaned it the nut and bolt and put it back together. We then started on the power source. We pulled the main bar connector after removing the metal locking device (Which is to hard to access from the top) and we got all good meter readings, put the connector back. Dropped the car to put his GM code box in and ran a series of tests on some of the previous codes. Everything passed. I was standing in front of the car on the drivers side and heard a puff. I asked and he said that was the module bringing it up to pressure and releasing. I said I don't get that lucky. We ran the test 2 more times. No codes or lights. I think it may have been the ground. Been driving it and no problems. Even a blind chicken gets some corn once in a while...... Finished at 10:30am and no charge Glad to hear it, it was probably a bad connection/ground... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Thanks to all again for your knowledge and feedback. Til next time happy motoring Woody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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