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2000 Eldorado ETC


armstrong

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Why does this sound FAR FETCHED to me. With the cost of oil, and with importing it from the middle east why arent all cars running with ZERO oil changes?

Hi BodybyFisher. :) Here are some links on this topic that will provide you information to answer your question. Enjoy. :)

Oil Drain Intervals On The Rise -- http://www.amsoil.com/news/oil_drain_intervals_2_06.aspx

"General Motors is actively seeking to extend oil drain intervals even further. In fact, the company recently asserted that 20,000 mile oil drain intervals are possible with existing engine technology and synthetic oils meeting current specifications, while 30,000 mile oil change intervals are achievable with appropriate motor oil quality and minor engine modifications".

AMSOIL Applauded for Extended Drain Technology -- http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/index.aspx

..."Here, in a nutshell," says McFall, "is this observer's take on ExxonMobil's and the oil industry's 'owner's manual' position: It is designed solely to increase motor oil sales." He backs it up by mentioning that Mobil 1 SuperSyn motor oil claims to meet European ACEA A5 and B5-02 specifications, two specifications intended to extend oil drain intervals. "If the oil can be used in Europe for extended drain intervals, why doesn't ExxonMobil notify U.S. consumers of that capability?" asks McFall...

...McFall marvels at the success of the independent motor oil company that offers drain intervals up to 11 times longer than the standard interval offered by conventional oils, saying, "Purists can sniff that AMSOIL's data isn't derived from a controlled field study, but the sheer mountain of vehicle miles over three decades, and the absence of any confirmed performance, wear or maintenance issues, speaks volumes."

McFall sums up his column by highlighting the true value of AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil, stating the cost may be "two to three times higher than most retail conventional oils but if you can securely count on a 15,000- to 25,000-mile drain interval, it's a flat-out bargain, not to mention providing a clear environmental bonus."

Motor Oil Drain Intervals: An Ethical Burdern? --- http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/dec_03_mcfall.pdf

In the below video, this company went from using Shell Rotella in their vehicles and changing the oil every 250 hours/9-10 times per year, to using AMSOIL synthetic motor oil and safely extending oil drain intervals to 900 hours/3 times per year. This has saved this company $500 - $600 per vehicle in reduced maintenance costs -

AMSOIL - Nordic Waste Field Study --

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Thanks Ill read through it when I get some time.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Yes indeed. I used the AMSOIL bypass oil filtration system to keep the oil clean. Oil analysis showed the oil suitable for continued use and no corrective action required. But there are many others that have gone much, much further than that using AMSOIL synthetic motor oils. Here is a video showing an engine using AMSOIL synthetic motor oil that went 409,000 miles without an oil change, the engine is torn down for inspection and evaluation by an independent engine rater.

What I wanna know is why hasn't Amsoil teamed-up with Ron Popeil? I mean, Popeil could make an infomercial and say: Amsoil, "Pour it And Ignore It! :blink:

But seriously, I'm thinking about giving Amsoil a try.

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By the way, didn't you mean humility (not humanity) in your previous post to me

Nope. But you have to be an American that used to hear the news broadcasts (replayed of course) of when the Hindenberg (airship) exploded to understand the analogy.

Sorry, I could have chosen a better word to use, but my meaning and usage are correct to those of my age and origin.

Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

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The Great Depression of 1928-1934 was far worse in many countries than it was in the USA. Unemployment went to near 100% and people were starving in the streets not because they couldn't buy food but because there was no food to be had. Currency was worthless in any case. In a few of these countries, the economy was jump-started by forced labor (Europe) and in others by conquest and pillage (Japan). This started another bubble, which grew into WW II.

The war between the US and Japan started in part because we cut off their raw petroleum, coal, and iron ore because of their genocidal expansionist activities in China and Indochina in the Great Depression. Once we did that, they had about a year and a half to find another source or their bubble would burst. They simply revised their expansionist planning to meet their changed objectives and began planning for war with the USA that would allow them free reign in the Pacific to loot natural resources of all kinds at will.

Oil was a factor, in both Japan's and Germany's bubbles. It was not at all the only factor.

MadeInAmerica may or may not have personally run his daily driver for extended periods and mileages without oil changes. However, extended run product companies like Amsoil do indeed demonstrate their products by buying and running cars to demonstrate the capabilities of their products, and Amsoil may indeed have a Cadillac or two to show that makes Amsoil shine. I would be interested to see how many Fiats, MG's Alpha Romeos, and Henry J's that they have in their high-mileage-no-oil-change stable, too. B)

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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i alternate syn/dino oil sometimes. i use syn in the winter. better cold weather performance in MN ya know. i decided to use syn last summer. june, i think? 2 days later my oil cooler line blew off the radiator inlet. maybe the slippery syn oil had something to do with it. remember the old stp commercials where they had the stp soaked screwdriver? they had folks try and grab the end of the screwdriver and it always slipped out of their grasp?

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AMSOIL Ea nanofiber technology oil filters are designed and recommended to go up to 25,000 miles without needing to be changed. These oils filters use state of the art nanofiber technology.

Nanofiber hogwash. Copy / paste is a great way to share the Kool Aid ........

Just stick with major brand dino, AC filters, get it out by 7500 miles and you'll never have a problem.

Now if you just want to to play with the fancy stuff, that's all fine and well, but spare me the pseudo-science cult marketing crap.

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Objective third-party tests of different oils in demanding circumstances usually put Amsoil premium oils at the top of the list, and Amsoil is the only one I have seen that consistently beats Mobil 1 -- but not by very much. The graphic earlier on this thread, featured on the Amsoil pitch page linked a couple of posts back, shows Mobil 1 to be the worst of the bunch as tested, by far. This reminds me of the days when Pennzoil and Quaker State were the best oils around, both refined from Pennsylvania oil, which was not so good for gasoline but the absolute best for refining motor oil. Pennzoil charts showed Quaker State as worse than junk re-refined oil and vice versa.

Yes, Amsoil is the best, if you get the premium oil. It's at a sales disadvantage relative to the other oils because it doesn't have a dedicated service station outlet and you don't see it on the shelves at Pep Boys like the other oils. That may be because they don't agree to restrictions that are placed on SAE standards, which is unfortunate and something that they should lobby and publicize.

The GM answer to oils is that they have SAE standards that must be met for oils to perform according to their maintenance recommendations that give good engine performance, good oil consumption, and long engine life (i.e. until the warranty is up). With the fuel efficiency standards, some makes started recommending synthetic oils. Certain high-performance cars that were likely to be raced or abused like Corvettes and Vipers started using synthetics at the factory and requiring their use under hard conditions. My car came with recommendation of 10W-30 dino oil and mention of synthetic for slightly better fuel economy in the print stuff but not in the owner's manual that I recall. You can't go wrong by the owner's manual and manufacturer's recommendations.

In the 1960's there was an outfit that sold a special external oil filter that used a roll of toilet paper as the replaceable element. The pitch was that the toilet paper absorbed the combustion products and moisture out of the oil so that you never had to change it again. I had a friend who ran this setup on his 1956 Chevrolet V8, a 2,000-mile-oil-change engine. He had 20,000 miles on his oil and he showed me his oil, and it was clear. I didn't like the color but didn't say anything. Was I going to put that on my 1966 Corvette with the 427 cid engine and quit changing the oil? Or even on my 1959 Chevrolet with the cold water six that I drove during the week? No, I don't think so. And, at that early date, I knew nothing about ZDDP.

My previous car had a Quad 4 HO engine that had very noticeably more snap with 5W-30 synthetic than the minimum recommended 5W-30 dino oil. This was noticeable in no small part because it had a manual transmission so that throttle response when ginning the engine to engage the clutch showed off its lower mass and drag. So, with the dealer's consent I started using 10W-30 Mobil 1 in my Cadillac from the first day. When the dealer made a mistake once and put dino oil in it, I noticed when I started the car and asked them about it, and they changed the oil again and put Mobil 1 back in it. Around 2001 my dealer started recommending 5W-30 Mobil 1 and I've been using that ever since. Does it pay for itself with better gas mileage? Noooo, not at $1 - $2 more a quart, 7 quarts per change, and about 4,000 miles per oil change. Could I go 7,000 miles between changes, or 10,000 miles, or more? Probably, but I would want to have the oil tested every 2,000 miles after 5,000 miles to watch it and make sure, because this is not a corporate demo or test car, it's my *baby* and I'm very protective of my baby, and it's performance. That's just me. Do I feel strongly that others should be just like me? Well... no. I've tweaked every car I've ever had for that last bit of performance ever since I ran 105 octane in my 1941 Chevrolet and advanced the spark until it would barely start.

Everybody makes their choices for their own reasons. As long as they understand what they are getting and are not hurting their car, I'm OK with any choice anyone makes.

Is Amsoil the very best oil that one could possibly get that is readily available on the market? I think that it quite possibly is. Would I try it if I could get 7 quarts real handy at my next oil change? Probably not, because I'm paying about $50 per oil change now and I think that Mobil 1 5W-30 will do the trick. Even so I might try it once if it was reasonably convenient. I don't think that I would seen a noticeable difference in my car and recent usage, based on the detailed analysis I've seen of viscosity, density, lubricity, and consistency of viscosity at operating temperature. Would it go farther than Mobil 1? Possibly, but I'm not willing to experiment with my baby.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Is Amsoil the very best oil that one could possibly get that is readily available on the market? I think that it quite possibly is. Would I try it if I could get 7 quarts real handy at my next oil change? Probably not, because I'm paying about $50 per oil change now and I think that Mobil 1 5W-30 will do the trick. Even so I might try it once if it was reasonably convenient. I don't think that I would seen a noticeable difference in my car and recent usage, based on the detailed analysis I've seen of viscosity, density, lubricity, and consistency of viscosity at operating temperature. Would it go farther than Mobil 1? Possibly, but I'm not willing to experiment with my baby.

AMSOIL's multi-level marketing makes me wonder whether it's Signature Series 25K oil is really the product the company claims it is. Why AMSOIL is not available in major retail stores escapes me. Maybe because it's not API licensed so large retail stores refuse to stock it? From what I've read, the reason why it's not licensed is because the phosphorous content is beyond the recommended standard and AMSOIL doesn't want to pay the extra costs of obtaining a license. If this is the reason, I must say it sounds lame since I would think an API license would open doors? Maybe it's more like AMSOIL can't get it licensed with the high phosphorous content. If AMSOIL's Signature oil is the product it claims it is, then it's a shame it's not being sold in major retail stores.

I've read a number of testimonials from those who claim to use the Signature Series oil and they're all good. So, it may be worth giving it a try.

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In today's lawyer-driven society, a chain like WalMart, Pep Boys or Sears has to think that if they stock an oil that does not have the SAE certification and the starburst symbol on page 0B-4 of the 1997 FSM, then what if some addled soul puts it in his 1972 Alpha Romeo, which is hit broadside by a Harley and catches fire because a fuel line falls off and hoses a hot leaking exhaust manifold with cheap gas? Some cheap lawyer that lives in his car can maintain that Amsoil is partially liable because their oil was not certified for use in the Alpha Romeo by the SAE or API or whatever. It happens all the time.

If you are Sears, Goodyear, Pep Boys, etc. you are hit with hundreds of nuisance lawsuits every week. If even one of them ever wins, it will trigger an avalanche of imitators. What is the advice of their staff of lawyers in the matter of stocking an oil that does not have the starburst symbol on their shelves? Well, they just might have it behind the counter, so that the customer *must* insist on it by name. If they do have it in the back, they might want you to sign a stamp on the invoice that says you use it off-road or some such when you buy it.

If Amsoil has more than the allowed amount of Phosphorus in it, it's probably a problem with longevity of the cat. I think that the use of phosphorus additives in gasoline was prohibited after cats became required because phosphorus kills catalytic converters. I believe that the life of the cat is also the problem with limits on ZDDP. Figure that the design oil consumption of gasoline engines is a quart every 2000 miles, and a cat is supposed to go 50,000 miles minimum, so figure the stuff in, say, 25 quarts of oil must go through a cat and it must still meet spec for oxides of nitrogen and unburnt hydrocarbons.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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If Amsoil has more than the allowed amount of Phosphorus in it, it's probably a problem with longevity of the cat. I think that the use of phosphorus additives in gasoline was prohibited after cats became required because phosphorus kills catalytic converters. I believe that the life of the cat is also the problem with limits on ZDDP. Figure that the design oil consumption of gasoline engines is a quart every 2000 miles, and a cat is supposed to go 50,000 miles minimum, so figure the stuff in, say, 25 quarts of oil must go through a cat and it must still meet spec for oxides of nitrogen and unburnt hydrocarbons.

From what I've read, AMSOIL states that the high phosphorous content should not be a problem for catalytic converters. The rational is that every time oil is changed a new dose of phosphorous comes with the oil change. Since AMSOIL is an extended mile oil that only needs to be drained once a year or 25,000 miles, there is actually less phosphorous content introduced over the life of AMSOIL. Interesting argument!

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Last week, I posted an ugly and uncalled for comment in this topic. My comment served only my own need to unload some frustration, and contributed nothing to the discussion.

I apologize to the member whose comments I attacked, to the originator of this topic, and to any other members who were offended by my remarks.

Jack

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