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Timing Chain Photo


BodybyFisher

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I found an old Photobucket account and this photo was in it,

You can see the timing chains, the monstrous heads, cam sensor, case half seal and oil pump location, Mike

The red dots on each side of the case half (at the mid 'north/south' point of the crank, where the upper and lower case halfs meet, is the case half seal

Good shot of the alternator location also

Not sure what year this is

camchains.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

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Thanks Mike,

Cool picture.

You're welcome brother

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I don't see any pics.

In my first post there is a photo, what do you see?, there is a photo of a Northstar

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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No pics at all. I'm at work, but I think they should still show. Maybe I'll see them at home. Weird.

Its possible that your browser is set up to not dl photos

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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IMO, the main task I performed to get my Northstar to run so well after my Timesert job was timeing the cams as exact as I could get them. Time consuming but the effort paid of in the running. All of the leaks aside you'd never think my motor has 116K plus from the way it runs.

My point, if anyone has to get into their motor to this degree pay special attention to timing it and you will be rewarded many times over with the way it will run.

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IMO, the main task I performed to get my Northstar to run so well after my Timesert job was timeing the cams as exact as I could get them. Time consuming but the effort paid of in the running. All of the leaks aside you'd never think my motor has 116K plus from the way it runs.

My point, if anyone has to get into their motor to this degree pay special attention to timing it and you will be rewarded many times over with the way it will run.

I was under the impression, that the timing chains are indexed either right or wrong, is it possible for them to be off only slightly?

There is no question that if I do this job, the timing chains will be an area, I will check repeatedly, I understand that the engine can be 180 degrees out and not run at all.

Looking at the manual, there are indexes that must be 90 degrees to the deck when installed correct

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I was thinking of carefully marking all parts before disassembly at TDC and taking photos as a security blanket :P

I need to start pricing the parts, the problem is all of the special tools I will need, that will drive the price of this job up.

I need

Engine Stand

Engine Hoist

Calibrated Torque Wrench

Torque angle gage

Flywheel holder

Rear main bearing installer

While its out, I would like to replace

HVAC box

Torque Convertor

Torque Convertor seal

Engine mounts not already replaced

For me the things I replace along the way, are the problem.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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It just dawned on me.

Looking at the photo above, where the THREE chains meet, what is it rotating on? Is there a bearing three? The question never occurred to me before this photo

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Three sprockets - front, middle, rear. I forget just what the configuration of the middle inner (large) sprocket is - bearing, idler?

The chains must line up. Not difficult, just tedious.

Hmm funny no one has mentioned what that that three sprocket is, a bearing?

Ill check the service manual

I just spoke to my neighbor, he has an engine hoist and engine stand, yeah

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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:bump:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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There is probably a bearing behind the intermediate sprocket but I didn't disassemble it when I had my engine apart.

In order to get the timing marks on the crank and the intermediate sprocket to line up, it may be necessary to turn the crank up to 7 turns. When I did mine, I disassembled it with #1 at TDC but then after the heads were off and the Bigserts were installed, I rotated the crank enough times to align the timing marks on the intermediate sprocket and the crank. I used clamps to lock the crankshaft in the aligned position for the head assembly.

With the heads on their side on the bench, I then set the cams to the aligned position as specified in the manual, then assembled the heads to the block.

Edited by KHE

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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There is probably a bearing behind the intermediate sprocket but I didn't disassemble it when I had my engine apart.

In order to get the timing marks on the crank and the intermediate sprocket to line up, it may be necessary to turn the crank up to 7 turns. When I did mine, I disassembled it with #1 at TDC but then after the heads were off and the Bigserts were installed, I rotated the crank enough times to align the timing marks on the intermediate sprocket and the crank. I used clamps to lock the crankshaft in the aligned position for the head assembly.

With the heads on their side on the bench, I then set the cams to the aligned position as specified in the manual, then assembled the heads to the block.

Thanks Kevin, I am sure this won't be the last time we speak about this, if I do this job..

Do I complicate this timing job by doing the case half seals and pulling out the crank

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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There is probably a bearing behind the intermediate sprocket but I didn't disassemble it when I had my engine apart.

In order to get the timing marks on the crank and the intermediate sprocket to line up, it may be necessary to turn the crank up to 7 turns. When I did mine, I disassembled it with #1 at TDC but then after the heads were off and the Bigserts were installed, I rotated the crank enough times to align the timing marks on the intermediate sprocket and the crank. I used clamps to lock the crankshaft in the aligned position for the head assembly.

With the heads on their side on the bench, I then set the cams to the aligned position as specified in the manual, then assembled the heads to the block.

Thanks Kevin, I am sure this won't be the last time we speak about this, if I do this job..

Do I complicate this timing job by doing the case half seals and pulling out the crank

You won't complicate the timing job by replacing the case half seal. You will have the heads off of the block before you start the case half seal. With the block on an engine stand, rotate it until the oil pan faces up and then complete the case half seal repair. Then turn the block right side up and rotate the crank to align the timing marks on the intermediate sprocket with the crank and lock the crank in that position for head assembly.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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There is probably a bearing behind the intermediate sprocket but I didn't disassemble it when I had my engine apart.

In order to get the timing marks on the crank and the intermediate sprocket to line up, it may be necessary to turn the crank up to 7 turns. When I did mine, I disassembled it with #1 at TDC but then after the heads were off and the Bigserts were installed, I rotated the crank enough times to align the timing marks on the intermediate sprocket and the crank. I used clamps to lock the crankshaft in the aligned position for the head assembly.

With the heads on their side on the bench, I then set the cams to the aligned position as specified in the manual, then assembled the heads to the block.

Thanks Kevin, I am sure this won't be the last time we speak about this, if I do this job..

Do I complicate this timing job by doing the case half seals and pulling out the crank

You won't complicate the timing job by replacing the case half seal. You will have the heads off of the block before you start the case half seal. With the block on an engine stand, rotate it until the oil pan faces up and then complete the case half seal repair. Then turn the block right side up and rotate the crank to align the timing marks on the intermediate sprocket with the crank and lock the crank in that position for head assembly.

I plan to replace the main bearings, is there anything else you can think of. I will check the oil pump for clearances as you previously noted.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I plan to replace the main bearings, is there anything else you can think of. I will check the oil pump for clearances as you previously noted.

The crank seals - since you're replacing the case half seal, you should be able to install the crank seals on the crank and then install the lower case half. That way you shouldn't need the seal installer tool. Just a thought - I have not had one torn down that far.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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i would not mess with the bearings. either rod or mains. almost all comments online are to leave them alone. a teardown may entail pulling the pistons/rods to be able to pull the crank to get to the main bearings. now, should you put new rings in too? sounds like a never ending process.

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i would not mess with the bearings. either rod or mains. almost all comments online are to leave them alone. a teardown may entail pulling the pistons/rods to be able to pull the crank to get to the main bearings. now, should you put new rings in too? sounds like a never ending process.

Consider that I need to separate the crank halfs to do the case half seal. Once I do that I will have disturbed the bearing 'crush' in my opinion.

I have always been told that 'crush' is important and that bearings need to be replaced when it's disturbed. I think I would always think about that 'crush' at 5,800 RPM, if I don't replace them. Also consider that I have had low oil pressure and a DEEP knock, on disassembly I plan to plasti-gage the rod and main bearings to definitively locate the source of the knock

I found this

Misassembly can be another cause of premature bearing failure. Common mistakes include installing the wrong sized bearings (using standard size bearings on an undersize crank or vice versa), installing the wrong half of a split bearing as an upper (which blocks the oil supply hole and starves the bearing for oil), getting too much or not enough crush because main and/or rod caps are too tight or loose, forgetting to tighten a main cap or rod bolt to specs, failing to clean parts thoroughly and getting dirt behind the bearing shell when the bearing is installed

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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