Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

A/C issue... codes set and they are baffling


MIke D

Recommended Posts

I have been having an issue with the air con on my 99 sts. Right side vents are cold. Left side are warm (yes they are both set to 60 deg :). ) I was getting a P1341 code which the manual says to hook up a scan tool. Unfortunately i don't have one.. So the shade tree mechanic that I am decided to swap the actuator with the one from behind the glove box. a known good one. well it has made no difference.

For those of you with the manual here is the more technical explanation that I sent my dad (who currently has my books)...

"I did move the good one to the floor of the drivers side but i am still getting a P1341 code as current. so I'm not sure what to make out of it. The more i look at the pictures from the book i am confused. I think what it is trying to say is the air mix door actuator drivers side it the one on page 1-107 (labeled 292136 and 292133) which is the one on the "left" ( there are two in the picture.) is for p1341... the "left one is the one I just swapped with a working actuator (from behind the glove box, the second picture down on page 1-108)... I am still getting the p1341 code

Now on page 1-107 the right hand actuator in the picture i cant see.. I'm not sure if that is the one you have to pull the dash to get at. I'm not sure what code is in reference to it either.

It is still hotter air from the drivers side than from the pax side. If i manually move either of the two actuators by hand it will get much hotter air. So i am thinking that the two I can get at are just an air mix door. hot to cold. What i need to find is the one that controls left to right to allow the cold air to move from right side of the ducts to left.. "

Has anyone had this problem before? I tried to look in the archives but either I'm blind or they didn't actually have the same problem. If anyone has had this issue I would love you for the rest of my life. I just got transferred to Houston from NJ and from what I hear it's hot there... yes that was sarcasm..

Thanks in advance,

Mike

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites


From different things I have read...when the air is hotter from the drivers side...it indicates it might be low on freon.

It was originally low, the mechanic put a pound in and there has not been a noticable change... Two weeks later (today) he hooked up the guages again and the pressure stayed the same since two weeks ago. he also put in the dye two weeks ago and has not found it to be leaking anywhere.

Edited by MIke D

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

B1340 - Air Mix Door One Movement Fault

B1341 - Air Mix Door Two Movement Fault

B1343 - Air Inlet Door Movement Fault

Are you sure you moved the door #2?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

B1340 - Air Mix Door One Movement Fault

B1341 - Air Mix Door Two Movement Fault

B1343 - Air Inlet Door Movement Fault

Are you sure you moved the door #2?

I moved the one the p1341 called for and "watched it move" the door. where is the 1343 door at?

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you adjust the temperature to 90 degrees, can you see both actuators moving the linkage to the doors? Then adjust it back to 60 degrees, the actuators should move the opposite way. It may take up to 1 minute for the doors to move.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tech added freon. now you don't know how much is actually in system. evacuate and add back the proper amount. than check system pressures to verify compressor performance. than check air blend doors for proper operation. you can guess and assume things but you will end up chasing your tail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you adjust the temperature to 90 degrees, can you see both actuators moving the linkage to the doors? Then adjust it back to 60 degrees, the actuators should move the opposite way. It may take up to 1 minute for the doors to move.

I thought i had said in the original but one actuator is dead so i swapped with a good on on drivers side... still warmer air than on the pax side

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tech added freon. now you don't know how much is actually in system. evacuate and add back the proper amount. than check system pressures to verify compressor performance. than check air blend doors for proper operation. you can guess and assume things but you will end up chasing your tail.

I guess i was not clear in the original post... That was what i had aready done (with the doors) what I am asking is there a door that seperates left to right side of the car.. if so where is this one located. also Originally I was a pound low so he put in a pound. Rechecked it yesterday and it is at the normal leval still.

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can check the large suction line coming out of the firewall. is it cold and probably sweating if it is hot/humid? you only have 1 evaporator. what is your "cold" side vent temp? is it cold or cool? i have not taken a dash apart so i can't say how the driver/pass sides are controlled. are you going to take the info about air doors and have the tech fix it or are you trying to figure it out so you can fix it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the inlet and outlet lines from the evaporator are cold and approximately the same temperature, the refrigerant charge is close enough to correct. Be sure not to check the temp prior to the orifice tube or you will notice quite a temperature difference. The fact that you're still getting the actuator code points to something other than a refrigerant charge...

If the code 1341 is still setting then something is wrong between the actuator and the ACM. When you swapped the actuators, did the suspected defective actuator function in the driver's side position? I think you are saying the known good actuator from the passenger side did not function properly in the driver's side correct? If so, the problem points to the circuitry between the actuator and the ACM and you really need the shop manual to diagnose the problem.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the exact same symptoms on my 98 STS. I had compressor kicking off because of high side pressure rising quickly. Did an A/C system flush, replaced orifice tube and all was great. Nice and cold. Then hit the temperature setting to 90 degrees and it will not come down. It was cold on the Passenger side, but hot on Driver side. Found the damper on the passenger side was not working and the Driver side damper was working, but still blowing hot. Reset the A/C by disconnecting Battery for 5 minutes. Then the default temp is 75 degrees. BUT: it now only blows warm to both sides now. I think there must be another damper lower in the system that controls HOT/Cold to both sides. I took the dash off and could not get deep into the A/C box. I am afraid to dig deeper. Maybe the dealer can reset the system to cold. (But the dealer is a typical dealer and wants to sell a compressor and other un-necessary stuff). Also, making this issue worse is that I live in Phoenix Az.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nenabubba, who did the recharge? why would you say the dealer wants to change the compressor if you just had the system recharged and the person who did it says the compressor is working fine? is the compressor working properly or not? don't go throwing out statements saying the dealer is trying to get you to buy parts you may not need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After my dad and i have talked about it more in depth he feel the ACM is the culpret. He has seen that sometimes the computer needs to be re-programed with a tech 2. I now have the whole electrical tree to find the correct volt/ohm readings but am packing up the house today and tomorrow for the move.. funny thing is my wife has been ragging on me that her 97 subaru which cost less then my car and has more miles and NEVER has had an issue... well lets just say karma is a *smurf*... her check engine light came on yesterday... HA HA HA i mean great another one to fix... I have wednesday with an open house and nothing to do so i will try to fix more then. thanks for all the input.

Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it!

93 STS 225,000 Miles

99 STS 111,000 Miles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After my dad and i have talked about it more in depth he feel the ACM is the culpret. He has seen that sometimes the computer needs to be re-programed with a tech 2. I now have the whole electrical tree to find the correct volt/ohm readings but am packing up the house today and tomorrow for the move.. funny thing is my wife has been ragging on me that her 97 subaru which cost less then my car and has more miles and NEVER has had an issue... well lets just say karma is a *smurf*... her check engine light came on yesterday... HA HA HA i mean great another one to fix... I have wednesday with an open house and nothing to do so i will try to fix more then. thanks for all the input.

Ask your wife which car she prefers to go on a long trip in? ;)

Then ask, which car do you feel safer in at 65 in the rain?

Advanced complexity leads to more frequent issues. I have an Oreck vacuum that runs like a top, it is about as basic plain vanilla as you can get, nothing fancy, it just vacuums

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my wife said our oreck was getting harder to push. i checked the beater bar and almost all the bristles were wore down. i put on a new belt in the last year and the bristles were getting thin but i did not realize they were that bad. i got a new bar and it works much better now. its a wear item so i had to buy it. found it online for 1/2 price compared to the local dealer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...