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83 coupe 4100 Sudden White coolant smoke


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I have a 83 coupe deville with the 4100. It has 93,000 miles on it and runs fine. I decided to give it a tuneup so I put in new plugs (original delcos were still in it .070 gap) new wires, new distributor cap, rotor, coil and an oil change. Im not sure how much oil it takes but i put in 4 quarts and it said it needed more so i put in the full 5.25 i had and it read at the top of the operating range on the dip stick.

I just finished everything tonight, fired up fine, idled for awhile to make sure everything was ok, sounded smooth no missing. I took it out for a drive and a block down the road after giving it about half throttle the engine started to shake real bad and knock on and off and then white smoke started pouring out of the back of the car. I shut it off. Restarted it and theres alot of clanking and knocking from the engine and sounds like a couple cylinders are firing. White coolant smoke is coming out of BOTH exhaust pipes and I have straight duals. The oil pressure light is on and the oil dipstick is registering VERY high with little coolant in the radiator. No leaks below the car.

So what happened? Its hard to believe BOTH head gaskets blew. Something wrong with the intake maybe?

Im going to drain the oil and see if its just over full or if theirs coolant in it.

Thanks for any help

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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I doubt it is the head gaskets. It may be the intake gaskets - they were much more prone to failure on the 4100 engine. Fortunately, it is not that bad of a job to R&R the intake gaskets.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Thanks for the replys guys. Under further inspection, the drivers side exhaust is spitting quite a bit of coolant and the passenger side is not. I drained some of the oil and of course its mostly coolant. Theres maybe a couple drops of coolant coming from the drivers side possibly the head. So I priced a full head gasket kit for both sides its like a $100. I found repair and torque manuals for this job on autozone.com so Ive decided if im gonna replace one head gasket you might as well do both right. Ive built a 350 from the block up and almost completely disassembled a car and reassembled so I think I can handle this in a weekend. But anytime you predict a weekend it will be 2  Getting all the vacuum hoses back where they are supposed to go for all that emissions crap is my only worry.

The thing that confuses me now is the guy that says the intake gaskets go bad more frequently on these engines. Well that’s A LOT easier job than doing both heads and I can only hope its just intake gaskets. Is there any indicators on how to tell which it is? I suppose Ill just start the tear down and see what I find from taking the intake off.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Thanks for the replys guys. Under further inspection, the drivers side exhaust is spitting quite a bit of coolant and the passenger side is not. I drained some of the oil and of course its mostly coolant. Theres maybe a couple drops of coolant coming from the drivers side possibly the head. So I priced a full head gasket kit for both sides its like a $100. I found repair and torque manuals for this job on autozone.com so Ive decided if im gonna replace one head gasket you might as well do both right. Ive built a 350 from the block up and almost completely disassembled a car and reassembled so I think I can handle this in a weekend. But anytime you predict a weekend it will be 2  Getting all the vacuum hoses back where they are supposed to go for all that emissions crap is my only worry.

The thing that confuses me now is the guy that says the intake gaskets go bad more frequently on these engines. Well that’s A LOT easier job than doing both heads and I can only hope its just intake gaskets. Is there any indicators on how to tell which it is? I suppose Ill just start the tear down and see what I find from taking the intake off.

Far more common to have a leaking intake gasket vs. a head gasket on the HT-4100 engine. The o-rings at the base and top of the wet cylinder liners can also go bad. One idea is to replace the intake gasket and then use a cooling system pressure tester to pressurize the system. If it holds pressure, the problem is fixed.

It is critical that you use the GM cooling system sealer (or Bars Leaks Golden Seal) in the HT-4100 to prevent microscopic coolant leaks at the base of the wet cylinder liners.

Drain all the coolant out of the engine, use compressed air to get as much as possible out, then repair the engine. Before starting it up, change the engine oil AND filter - use 4.5 quarts. Run it and if there is no more coolant in the oil, add 1 pt. of GM Engine Oil Supplement. The EOS is very righ in ZDP (the anti-wear additive) and it will heal any minor scuffing to the bearings, distributor gearm etc. that may have occured. If there is still some risidual coolant in the oil, change it again until there is no more coolant in the oil and then add the EOS to bring the sump to 5 quarts.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Please forgive this scenario, but is it just possible that you checked the transmission fluid and put in engine oil instead? Your first post sounds like you drastically overfilled the oil and sucked it into the PCV and hydrolocked a cylinder, blowing the head gasket and possibly causing other damage.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Good info guys

I didnt mess with the tranny fluid by the way. When i did the oil change I did put in 5.25 quarts of oil but it read just to the top of the operating range so i figured it was ok.

So heres what I got done tonight.

I got the repair guides from autozone.com and started tearing apart the engine. I got the alt, a/c, valve covers, ALLLL that vacuum and smog and other crap off, the rocker arm assemblies, all the other little stuff, the intake bolts out. Now the intake will come out but the distributor needs to come off. I cant figure out how to do it!! Theres a little bolt behind the distributor but its impossible to get to. MAYBE a crows foot will get it but i cant even get an open end back there to figure what size. 15mm? And its almost like a crows foot wont even get it. Anyway get this.. I didnt break any bolts taking anything apart. The valve cover bolts were pretty loose probably explaining their little leaks. The passenger side rockers where pretty darn clean while the driver side were caked in hard sludge. Heres the wow thing. All 12 of the intake bolts that are located under the valve covers I took off by hand!!! :o So Im thinking maybe intake gasket? once i get that distributor off I can take a look at them gaskets.

Hopefully i can get this engine back together right. ive tried labeling and putting bolts in cardboard and all but theres a lot of vacuum and other junk on that engine. Is all that REALLY necessary? Im used to a 350 with 2 vacuum hoses and a couple electrical wires :D

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unrelated but heres some pictures of my car. Ive done all the work myself. Reinforcing the frame and control arms, all the hydros and all. The car was a garaged car with 90k miles on it I got off ebay from someone who bought it at an estate auction. I paid 2000 for it and its is VERY clean.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Go to your auto supply or Sears tool department...ask for a GM DISTRIBUTOR wrench.

It is made specifically for taking that bolt out. :D

Thats about ALL it is good for, but it is good for THAT. :D

I think it is 13mm bolt, bit I am not sure.

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boy 2000 for that you got yourself a great deal, Ilove how daytons and vogues look on that, Me personally im more of a fan of 84's and vogues but that looks darn good, Nice job you keep that bad boy clean.

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If the 4100 is damaged and you need a new block, here is what you can get for about $4K from Summit Racing:

You will want to replace the OEM THM200-4R with a beefier transmission that can handle the 400 hp of these engines, such as a later model THM200-4R rebuilt for high performance or a THM700-4R. This will cost about another $2K. If you don't care about gas mileage or highway driving you can go with a cheaper THM400.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Go to your auto supply or Sears tool department...ask for a GM DISTRIBUTOR wrench.

It is made specifically for taking that bolt out. :D

Thats about ALL it is good for, but it is good for THAT. :D

I think it is 13mm bolt, bit I am not sure.

if its one of those cockeyed crooked regular wrenches im not sure thats gonna work. I cant even get a normal open end on the bolt and if I did theres is not a half inch of room to move the wrench. THats why i was thinkng crows foot to come from above but Ill still look into the GM wrench. Kinda feels like a 13mm

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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If the 4100 is damaged and you need a new block, here is what you can get for about $4K from Summit Racing:

You will want to replace the OEM THM200-4R with a beefier transmission that can handle the 400 hp of these engines, such as a later model THM200-4R rebuilt for high performance or a THM700-4R. This will cost about another $2K. If you don't care about gas mileage or highway driving you can go with a cheaper THM400.

theres tons of options for a NEW motor. Ive built 350s before and kinda like them and what you can do with them. I like fuel injection though. If i had the cash and knowhow id put a northstar in it or 425 caddy motor fuel injected. Ive even heard I can stick my throttle body on top of a 350 and itll work that way? Id just rather put a caddy motor in a caddy but if i cant then just do a small block. Well all that stuff costs alot of money and before I do all that Im gonna try to fix what I got. For under a $100 I can get the gaskets to fix this thing and if it dont work atleast I tried.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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Share on other sites

Go to your auto supply or Sears tool department...ask for a GM DISTRIBUTOR wrench.

It is made specifically for taking that bolt out. :D

Thats about ALL it is good for, but it is good for THAT. :D

I think it is 13mm bolt, bit I am not sure.

if its one of those cockeyed crooked regular wrenches im not sure thats gonna work. I cant even get a normal open end on the bolt and if I did theres is not a half inch of room to move the wrench. THats why i was thinkng crows foot to come from above but Ill still look into the GM wrench. Kinda feels like a 13mm

The distributor wrench DOES come in from the top...

It is BENT in all the right places to let you get it in and under the distributor. :D:D

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If the 4100 is damaged and you need a new block, here is what you can get for about $4K from Summit Racing:

You will want to replace the OEM THM200-4R with a beefier transmission that can handle the 400 hp of these engines, such as a later model THM200-4R rebuilt for high performance or a THM700-4R. This will cost about another $2K. If you don't care about gas mileage or highway driving you can go with a cheaper THM400.

theres tons of options for a NEW motor. Ive built 350s before and kinda like them and what you can do with them. I like fuel injection though. If i had the cash and knowhow id put a northstar in it or 425 caddy motor fuel injected. Ive even heard I can stick my throttle body on top of a 350 and itll work that way? Id just rather put a caddy motor in a caddy but if i cant then just do a small block. Well all that stuff costs alot of money and before I do all that Im gonna try to fix what I got. For under a $100 I can get the gaskets to fix this thing and if it dont work atleast I tried.

Yeah, if you like the 4100 or if it's OK for you then I would stick with it. Stay with the 1982 Cadillac engine, even if you need some used parts or even an engine. The price is right and there are no hassles, no worries. And, you get the chance to clean up an all-aluminum engine to match the show quality of the rest of your car.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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any more specifics on this "gm distributor wrench"? I went to sears and they hadnt heard of it. They have flex head wrenches and KD tools make a 3 piece tool but non of them are GM specific and not sure which would work.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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any more specifics on this "gm distributor wrench"? I went to sears and they hadnt heard of it. They have flex head wrenches and KD tools make a 3 piece tool but non of them are GM specific and not sure which would work.

Here it is.

This is what it looks like.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?it...p;group_ID=1327

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any more specifics on this "gm distributor wrench"? I went to sears and they hadnt heard of it. They have flex head wrenches and KD tools make a 3 piece tool but non of them are GM specific and not sure which would work.

Here it is.

This is what it looks like.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?it...p;group_ID=1327

$60 for one time use wrench... Remember SEARS has a good return policy! :)

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Here's one for $32.50:

Bigger picture:

I expect that Sears will have a competitive price too.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I bought one off ebay, its sold by summit and is basically a right angle wrench with 13mm on one side and 15mm on the other. It was only $10 shipped and from reading on other forumns it should work just fine. For a one time wrench im not spending 30 some bucks! Ill bend an open end before i do that.

Well when i get that wrench in i can get the distributor out and see how that intake gasket looks.

I will mark the distributor position the best i can, but do these cars even need to be timed? I heard they electronically adjust the timing? I figure if i get it nearly exactly where it was before it probably wont need timed.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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If it's got a distributor clamp, then it needs to be timed. Yes, it has a knock sensor and can adjust the timing electronically, but on startup and warmup it is running open loop, i.e. the old-fashioned way.

If it's reasonably close, you can get the static timing very close by tightening the clamping bolt so that you can just barely turn the distributor, then, with the gas cut off spinning the engine with the starter and using a timinig light. If you are close enough to run the engine, just disconnect the vacuum advance and do it the old fashioned way.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Yes - it must be timed. Bring the #1 cylinder to top dead center by rotating the crank with a wrench. Pull the distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing to the #1 position. If not, rotate the crank in the proper direction to bring the #1 piston down and back to top dead center. The rotor should be pointed close to the #1 position. Mark the initial position of the distributor before you loosen the bolt. When you remove the distributor, it will rotate - mark the position where it is able to be removed with a different colored marker. When you reassemble it, you should be able to get it close but you'll still need to use an inductive timing light to get the timing set to the proper spec.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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yea ive timed a 350 before, i thought this would be different. And i thought i read somewhere you cant do the vacuum advance because these distributors dont have vacuum going to them, which it doesnt.

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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yea ive timed a 350 before, i thought this would be different. And i thought i read somewhere you cant do the vacuum advance because these distributors dont have vacuum going to them, which it doesnt.

It has been a long time.... but there is either a single wire near the distributor that must be grounded in order to put the ECM in "Set Timing" mode OR you jumper pins A and B of the diagnostic connector under the dash to put the ECM in set timing mode. Then using an inductive timing light, set the timing to the factory spec. If you do not have a factory shop manual for your car, they are often available on ebay for a very reasonable price.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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yea ive timed a 350 before, i thought this would be different. And i thought i read somewhere you cant do the vacuum advance because these distributors dont have vacuum going to them, which it doesnt.

It has been a long time.... but there is either a single wire near the distributor that must be grounded in order to put the ECM in "Set Timing" mode OR you jumper pins A and B of the diagnostic connector under the dash to put the ECM in set timing mode. Then using an inductive timing light, set the timing to the factory spec. If you do not have a factory shop manual for your car, they are often available on ebay for a very reasonable price.

i got a chiltons, its pretty helpful :D

* 1966 Deville Convertible

* 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black

* 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone
* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone

* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE
* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE
* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE

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