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2003 CTS 3.2 with a rough idle


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I have a similar problem with the rough idle as Kentucknet. Thanks for all the help from that thread. The engine idles a little over 600 rpm but then it intermittantly drops @100 rpm with a very noticable learch. Not really a noise but you can feel the change in torque.

The car sat since October until I could get the valve cover gaskets changed few weekends ago. (Needed warm weather, brother-in-law and room in the garage.) Replaced the plugs, intake cover gaskets, cleaned the component that snaps onto the plugs since the two rear spark plugs were soaked in oil and have gone back over everything again to make sure everything is connected. I don't remember the rough idle from before. At first I thought it might just have been bad gas from sitting so long. I threw in some STP and it took me a couple of weeks to run the tank down.

I do not have codes since I cleared them before I figured out how to get to them properly. How long before the codes will come back if they were there? I've driven the car around a couple of times and still no codes but the rough idle is still a problem.

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I was planning on tearing back into it today but with the rain and having to work my Jeep I won't get to it until next weekend. Is there a risk of damage if I continue to drive it if I have fouled plug wiring and it is not firing? I am pretty sure I cleaned the contacts, springs etc thoroughly because I really didn't want to get back in there again. As soon as I move the throttle the engine responds like it should. I am not seeing any problems accelerating or at speed.

BTW, jets are much easier to work. I've never spent so long removing other things to get just to get to the spark plugs...

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I was planning on tearing back into it today but with the rain and having to work my Jeep I won't get to it until next weekend. Is there a risk of damage if I continue to drive it if I have fouled plug wiring and it is not firing? I am pretty sure I cleaned the contacts, springs etc thoroughly because I really didn't want to get back in there again. As soon as I move the throttle the engine responds like it should. I am not seeing any problems accelerating or at speed.

BTW, jets are much easier to work. I've never spent so long removing other things to get just to get to the spark plugs...

If you are not seeing ANY problems when driving it...and it is just a rough idle...there is probably no reason not to go ahead and drive it.

It may be something that only shows up at idle and not while you are driving.

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Thanks Jim, i got the codes P0300C and P0302C after my drive in to work today which came out to be cylinder 2 misfiring. I'll post a reply after I get into again this weekend. Since my wife just went out of town I can park it until then...

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Thanks Jim, i got the codes P0300C and P0302C after my drive in to work today which came out to be cylinder 2 misfiring. I'll post a reply after I get into again this weekend. Since my wife just went out of town I can park it until then...

Very good.

You are right...the 302 is #2 plug misfiring.

Let us know what you find...and if you have questions...we will try to help.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last weekend I removed the coil pack and cleaned it again, wasn't really anything there so I put it back together. Same codes etc...

Today I swapped out the coil pack and as I was putting everything together I noticed the seal that goes with the plug under neath the vaccum assembly with the cadillac logo that sits on top of the motor was cut. I put everything back and you can guess, it runs really rough with that seal missing. All the dealers near me are closed for the day

so I'll have to wait until Monday to get a new seal.

On the bright side I got the kids Subaru water pump and timing belt swapped out today. At least I fixed something!

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Last weekend I removed the coil pack and cleaned it again, wasn't really anything there so I put it back together. Same codes etc...

Today I swapped out the coil pack and as I was putting everything together I noticed the seal that goes with the plug under neath the vaccum assembly with the cadillac logo that sits on top of the motor was cut. I put everything back and you can guess, it runs really rough with that seal missing. All the dealers near me are closed for the day

so I'll have to wait until Monday to get a new seal.

On the bright side I got the kids Subaru water pump and timing belt swapped out today. At least I fixed something!

You may very well have found your problem. I hope so. :D

As you said...you also got the kids car fixed while you were at it...so looks like the time was well spent. :D

Let us know about the cut seal and the results when you replace it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I think it is fixed, finally.

I changed the vacuum seal to get her running again but I still had the #2 misfire. So I made it back to the dealer and bought new plugs. I figured I would try the last "easy" fix thinking maybe I got a bad plug two months ago when we changed the valve cover gaskets. I installed six new ACDelco/Bosch plugs and problem solved. I can't believe two months of headaches were caused by the new plugs I had installed.

They were Autolife platinums.

I guess you could say I would recommend sticking with the OEM plugs for the CTS.

Thanks for the advice and a source for the codes.

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Terrific, how did the old plugs look? Its possible that they were not platinum. We are big fans of AC DELCO plugs

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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They all looked the same, a little blackened but not anything that I thought was problematic. I would have thought the number two would have looked different but it didn't. Honestly I wouldn't know a platinum plug by looking at it.

You could say I am BIG fan now too!

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They all looked the same, a little blackened but not anything that I thought was problematic. I would have thought the number two would have looked different but it didn't. Honestly I wouldn't know a platinum plug by looking at it.

You could say I am BIG fan now too!

There are tiny tiny platinum pad on the anodes that sometimes fall off, widening the gap and allowing quick anode wear. If you still have the old plugs measure the gap on #2

Also, check for a hairline crack on the porcelon

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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