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Need nut size for front engine mnt 03 deville


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I can't seem to get to the nut that holds the front (left bank of engine) engine mount on the top. I lowered the cradle an inch or so and have the bracket loose everywhere else so now I can at least touch this nut, but I can not get to it with a wrench or anything. I'm thinking maybe a crows foot wrench, a swivel, and a few extensions may be able to get it.

Any idea what size this is? The stud is the same size as the bottom stud, but the nut is huge compared.

Any ideas how to get to this thing? I suppose I can drop the cradle completely and remove the bracket from the car but that is a ton more work to do on the floor with jack stands.

Thanks

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I dont know if the 03 is different from the 96, but I replaced my front engine mount, here is my thread, I did remove the nut (s) that held the rubber mount to the frame

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=19074

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Hmm same but different. Mine only has one stud with a nut going through that frame.

I spent last night reading many of your write ups and I guess I skimmed right past that one. Thanks though, I already read your description of using threaded rod to drop the sub frame and I will deffinately use that. One question did you need to remove all the brake, tranny, and coolant lines when you lowered the subframe or just let them flex a little? I let mine flex but any further and I'm thinking of removing everything.

I concidered removing the rad fan like you did but there is a hard AC line that loops in front of it that wouldn't budge and I don't think it would help me at all.

If I can find out the size of this nut I think I can order a crows foot and finangle it in there maybe. I'll take some calipers with me from work if it comes down to it and see if I can get in there to measure it.

Thanks again.

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Hmm same but different. Mine only has one stud with a nut going through that frame.

I spent last night reading many of your write ups and I guess I skimmed right past that one. Thanks though, I already read your description of using threaded rod to drop the sub frame and I will deffinately use that. One question did you need to remove all the brake, tranny, and coolant lines when you lowered the subframe or just let them flex a little? I let mine flex but any further and I'm thinking of removing everything.

I concidered removing the rad fan like you did but there is a hard AC line that loops in front of it that wouldn't budge and I don't think it would help me at all.

If I can find out the size of this nut I think I can order a crows foot and finangle it in there maybe. I'll take some calipers with me from work if it comes down to it and see if I can get in there to measure it.

Thanks again.

Hi, you really need someone to post the procedure out of an 03 factory service manual, I doubt that you need to drop the carriage. You may need to remove the radiator, fans etc.. Ill change the title of your post requesting procedure from the 03 manual, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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it's completely loose the pain will be pulling all the lines and steering rack off it so I don't have to replace all the fluids and bleed all the lines again. That may be the easiest way but I'll not just give in and do that off the bat, I'll try the crows foot swivel extension first.

I don't want to pull the rad as the AC lines are really in the way first and I don't want to crack that seal.

I already have the hubs off axles loose for other work the suspension would just be another bolt or two before it could be split.

I was hoping for encouraging 'here's the trick' but if that's what needs done so be it.

The old retired guy that lets me use his lift just shakes his head and calls me crazy for working on cars without the manual. I meant to buy one but never got around to it yet.

Thanks guys I'll snap some pics to post up for future people that may be attempting this job.

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Why are you removing the steering rack, all you need to do is, break the steering shaft loose with one bolt

Good luck with this, the bolt method is terrific..

Thanks in advance for posting photos, let us know how we can help

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Here is the response I got when I asked if anyone had done it on the other caddy site.

Ranger,

I've done the motor mount twice on the 2000 Seville, and if the Deville has a similar engine cradle (I think it does), here's how it will go (don't have pics handy):

1) get the front end of the car in the air, I used a pair of jack stands with a 12" piece of 2x4 on the top (to spread the load) on the body behind the cradle. Use your judgment as to where to put these.

2) put a 4" piece of 2x4 on your hydraulic jack, then put in under the engine in the oil pan area (My Northstar had a steel crossbrace piece going between the engine and trans, which proved ideal. You should have this too.) You will need this to support the weight of the engine, and lift the engine off the cradle (you'll need to do this to get the mount out). Pump up the jack until it just makes contact with the brace.

3) the mount has 2 studs coming out of it - 1 to the cradle (you can take this nut off at this point, it's a deep socket), and 1 to a supporting brace that attaches to the engine at 4 points (the brace will have to be unbolted from the engine, and comes out with the mount). Remove the brace to engine bolts at this point, gravity will keep the powertrain in place.

4) there are 6 bolts that attach the cradle to the frame (2 up front, 4 in back). the rear 4 are loosened, the front 2 will be removed altogether. Now, pump up the jack to support the weight of the engine, and remove the front 2 bolts, then loosen (about 5 turns from the point of removal) the middle 2 bolts, and loosen the rear 2 halfway. The brace and mount should separate away from the engine and be resting on the cradle.

5) To get the mount and brace out, raise the engine further with the jack, and you may have to pull down on the cradle to get the necessary clearance. Once the mount is out, unbolt it from the brace and install the new one (tighten this down properly, once installed you can't get to this bolt!)

6) Installation is roughly the reverse of removal, with the following things to look out for:

a: get the new brace/mount roughly in place, and bolt it to the engine. Torque to spec.

b: tighten the 4 rear cradle bolts, it'll close the gap for the front 2 bolts. Then (you will really want a helper at this point, but i managed to do it alone) push up the front of the cradle (if alone, have a piece of 2x4 or another hydraulic jack handy) enough to get the 2 front bolts started in their holes. Once started, torque all 6 cradle bolts to spec.

c: lower the powertrain down onto the cradle, and install the mount to cradle nut, torquing to spec.

you're done! Get the car down on the ground, and give yourself a pat on the back (and a beer too!) for doing what i consider a fairly advanced repair for the do it yourself owner.

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Well that wasn't so bad after all once I stopped trying to separate the mount from the brace in the car. I went over after dinner and knocked it out as well as a few other tasks that came up.

I detached all of the hard lines that ran across the front of the cradle and what looked like something for the ABS. I tied all that to the upper rad support then I felt comfortable removing the front two cradle bolts and letting the front of the cradle drop further. Then I rolled the already loose mount and brace towards the driver side and wiggled it out the front. The impossible nut was a 30mm btw and without a vice I had to slide the brace under the front tire of my daily driver to hold it while I pulled the mount off.

Everything went back together smoothly and easily, I took a few pics I'll post up in the next few days.

I still have a couple questions:

1) I pulled off the calipers and didn't realize one slider pin has a little plastic clip on the end. Does that go on the top of the caliper or the bottom?

2) Does anybody know the torque specs for the axle nuts? I replaced my hubs and I want to make sure I preload the bearings properly.

Thanks for your help guys. I thought by drop the cradle it meant completely remove it from the car. That's why I was so worried about all the other parts attached to it, but dropping just the front was actually rather simple.

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