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NAPA Brake Rotors


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I'm going to buy NAPA's Ultra Premium Rotors. I've read online that they are repackaged Raybestos Advance Technology rotors, but I don't know if this is correct. The Ultra Premium rotors are guaranteed not to warp for their useful life. If they warp then they can be returned for a new one. And they have a coating on them that prevents the annoying rust. Rockauto sells the Raybestos Advance Technology rotors for $46.79 each while NAPA Ultra's sell for $64.49 (for 94 Eldorado), which is likely due to the lifetime guarantee.

I have to do a complete brake job both front and back. I think the Ultra Premium's lifetime guarantee is worth the extra $20 each if they last.

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Are they made in Red China?

Don't buy anything made in China.

They might be? I hear they are made in Canada, Brazil, and China. You may find a few remaining that were made in the USA. From what I understand, rotors are no longer being made in the USA. I find out where they're made when I check them out.

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Well...I just purchased 4 rotors from NAPA. For the front, Ultra Premium, and standard Premium for the rear. I didn't see any markings on the Premium, which was in stock. I'll pick up the Ultra's on Saturday. Now, I only need to settle on which brakes to buy.

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Just got in some ACDELCO Durastop pads for the CTS from rockauto.com, along with a couple of oil filters.

I'm using Performance Friction carbon metallic brakes at the moment and have noticed that they are hard on rotors by the amount of rotor wear/gouging. Don't use hard pads on middle grade rotors--buy high quality rotors such as Brembo. I don't know how well the NAPA rotors will do as far as damage resistance so I can't recommend them at this point--but I've seen excellent reviews. I think I'll go with organic pads or low-metallic. I've also looked at Rotex Gold and Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads since they are very low dust and they have good reviews but not sure how easy they are on rotors. I would rather try the Rotex pads.

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I am using the NAPA ceramic pads and I like them a lot, no wheel dusting, they haul the car to a stop quickly but the only drawback is that they dont grab well when cold, so the first few stops in the morning are not great until they are warmed up, otherwise I am happy with them

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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I have PFC pads too - I have noticed that the rotors look a little beat, but it didn't click in my mind that it was because of the pad "bite". I've been using PFC's on all my cars that they are available for since I found out about them - maybe it's time for a change.

edit - I just looked at some Brembo rotors - they have some with what seems to be the powdercoated "top hat", so the rusty crusty's don't show through open wheels - you guys have just caused me to have to spend more money :ups: - you'll have to back me up while I explain this "need" to my family.

Resistance is futile.

quake_tux.gif

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I am using the NAPA ceramic pads and I like them a lot, no wheel dusting, they haul the car to a stop quickly but the only drawback is that they dont grab well when cold, so the first few stops in the morning are not great until they are warmed up, otherwise I am happy with them

How are your rotors--Any damage cause by them?

I have to pick up rotors tomorrow at NAPA and I'm seriously thinking of trying their ceramic pads.

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I have PFC pads too - I have noticed that the rotors look a little beat, but it didn't click in my mind that it was because of the pad "bite". I've been using PFC's on all my cars that they are available for since I found out about them - maybe it's time for a change.

edit - I just looked at some Brembo rotors - they have some with what seems to be the powdercoated "top hat", so the rusty crusty's don't show through open wheels - you guys have just caused me to have to spend more money :ups: - you'll have to back me up while I explain this "need" to my family.

The Performance Friction pads are good as far as stopping but they look to be pretty hard on rotors--at least the middle grade ones. I hear that Brembo rotors have a more dense metal grain and are therefore more durable. If you Internet research them you will find a lot of good reviews. I bought NAPA's Ultra Premium rotors for the front based on reviews, which also have a coating to prevent rusting.

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I am using the NAPA ceramic pads and I like them a lot, no wheel dusting, they haul the car to a stop quickly but the only drawback is that they dont grab well when cold, so the first few stops in the morning are not great until they are warmed up, otherwise I am happy with them

How are your rotors--Any damage cause by them?

I have to pick up rotors tomorrow at NAPA and I'm seriously thinking of trying their ceramic pads.

Honestly, my rotors look great for the first time in a long time and I have not picked up any shudder at all as was happening

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I just returned from picking up NAPA's Ultra Premium Rotors and they are indeed made in China. But since I've seen good reviews, I'm hoping they will perform well. I also bought NAPA ceramic pads for both front and back. For the front, the Adaptive One - Ceramic pads and Ceramic Safety Stop pads for the rear.

The total cost for 4 rotors and new pads: $300.19, which includes tax. Without tax: $280.55.

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Since you are doing this major job, dont forget to buy new caliper bushing kits from the dealer and clean the heck out of the sliders, if any sliders look worn or pitted replace it, it will stop binding later

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Since you are doing this major job, dont forget to buy new caliper bushing kits from the dealer and clean the heck out of the sliders, if any sliders look worn or pitted replace it, it will stop binding later

Every time I do brakes I clean everything up and check the sliders and use some lube. But I think I'll buy new bushings anyway. I even sprayed the rust converter spray on the calipers and suspension parts to prevent rust. That converter spray also dresses things up with its black coating. It's good stuff!

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I replaced the front rotors and brakes today. One thing I noticed is that the Performance Friction carbon metallic brake pads produce rust from the metal in the pads. The rear rotors have rust on them and I've noticed this even after driving it seems these pads rust. I hope the ceramic pads don't do this because I don't think pads should be contaminating the rotors.

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Since you are doing this major job, dont forget to buy new caliper bushing kits from the dealer and clean the heck out of the sliders, if any sliders look worn or pitted replace it, it will stop binding later

I bought new bushings and will replace them a.s.a.p. The bushings in the right caliper have swelled so the sliders are difficult to move. I feel like spraying some dry lubricant on the sliders to prevent swelling of bushings. The dry lubricant shouldn't cause swelling because it's a non-petroleum lubricant?

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The binding may be due to corrosion of the caliper in the bushing bores, as iron oxide occupies several times the volume of iron. While it is possible to extract the bushings and clean everything up, one might be damaged in the process, so it may be best to have new replacements on hand.

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Since you are doing this major job, dont forget to buy new caliper bushing kits from the dealer and clean the heck out of the sliders, if any sliders look worn or pitted replace it, it will stop binding later

I bought new bushings and will replace them a.s.a.p. The bushings in the right caliper have swelled so the sliders are difficult to move. I feel like spraying some dry lubricant on the sliders to prevent swelling of bushings. The dry lubricant shouldn't cause swelling because it's a non-petroleum lubricant?

Hmmm, not 100% sure about that, the OEM 'grease' might be high temp silicone based grease. You cant spray it from outside however, you will need to take it apart. As Kevin noted, rust gets behind the bushings and swells them, did you pull them out?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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The binding may be due to corrosion of the caliper in the bushing bores, as iron oxide occupies several times the volume of iron. While it is possible to extract the bushings and clean everything up, one might be damaged in the process, so it may be best to have new replacements on hand.

The rust in the bores may actually be the answer. When I pull the bushings out I'll be sure to inspect the bores and clean any rust. Thanks for the info.

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Since you are doing this major job, dont forget to buy new caliper bushing kits from the dealer and clean the heck out of the sliders, if any sliders look worn or pitted replace it, it will stop binding later

I bought new bushings and will replace them a.s.a.p. The bushings in the right caliper have swelled so the sliders are difficult to move. I feel like spraying some dry lubricant on the sliders to prevent swelling of bushings. The dry lubricant shouldn't cause swelling because it's a non-petroleum lubricant?

Hmmm, not 100% sure about that, the OEM 'grease' might be high temp silicone based grease. You cant spray it from outside however, you will need to take it apart. As Kevin noted, rust gets behind the bushings and swells them, did you pull them out?

I have silicone spray in the blue can, which you're probably familiar with. I take it that this silicone is good to use to lubricate the sliders?

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The binding may be due to corrosion of the caliper in the bushing bores, as iron oxide occupies several times the volume of iron. While it is possible to extract the bushings and clean everything up, one might be damaged in the process, so it may be best to have new replacements on hand.

The rust in the bores may actually be the answer. When I pull the bushings out I'll be sure to inspect the bores and clean any rust. Thanks for the info.

Oh yea, if you did not pull the bushings you will be shocked how much rust is behind them, I used a round wire brush.

Ill see if I can find my thread on this

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I did a few searches and cant find the thread that I discussed the rust under the bushings, I even searched under Scotty... No doubt you will find rust

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I did a few searches and cant find the thread that I discussed the rust under the bushings, I even searched under Scotty... No doubt you will find rust

Thanks for the info. Rust must be part of the problem with tight sliders.

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