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Bad Popping Sound

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I'm getting frustrated because I have been unable to isolate the popping sound that seems to be emanating from the right (passenger) side, particularly when I make a turn. At various times this sound will also occur when I accelerate and brake. If I swing the steering wheel from left to right while driving I will hear this popping sound that seem to be coming from both sides, but mostly from the right. I don't know if it a ball joint or maybe even a strut because 1) there is no obvious uneven tire ware indicating a ball joint problem. Given the loudness of the popping, if it was a ball joint I figure that I would have ruined the tires a long time ago; and 2) when I go over bumps the struts don't make any sounds as though there is something wrong internally. I also hear what sounds like a squeaking sound too. Maybe the springs are worn? But mostly the popping is happening every day, all the time, and I need to figure this out and fix it. :blink:

Is it possible that I have bad ball joints but I'm simply not seeing the obvious signs?

Edit: It seems that there is also some movement at times of the right wheel, particularly when making sharp turns at a moderate speed. I already replaced the hub/bearing assembly last fall.

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Check the CV joints.

I just bought a used OEM axle, which is depicted a #1.

I'm taking a shot in the dark but I have to figure this out. I think your suggestion sounds like a good possibility. Since I'm 99% sure that the right side is where the popping is coming from, I replace the right Axle first.

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take the tire off and shake the heck out of the steering/suspension components and see which one moves :]

i've seen warn tie rod ends cause this before.. i'd check that first. you can even leave the tire on and try and pop it back and fourth when it's off the ground to check for tie rod problems. if it's not on the outside, follow it tie rod to where it ties in to the rack and pinion assembly and try and shake that one. might be a whole lot cheaper than buying a remanufactured axle which wouldn't necessarilly fix the problem if it ended up being the tie rod end.. ususally if it's a cv joint or something in your driveshaft assembly it'll happen much more consistantly than just when you turn and under heavy acceleration.

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Have someone else slowly turn the steering wheel while you (without putting yourself in danger) put your hand on the spring and feel for the popping. It sounds like the strut mount to me.

Also, check your strut rod bushings, they get loose and allow the control arm to move fore and aft you could be feeling the strut rod moving

Regis (I think) found his steering rack was not tight and it was popping.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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or that.. but on most vehicles i've replaced strut mounts on, you can hear a nice steady squeeking sound through the range of your steering wheel and can see the top of the strut mount moving around if you take the plastic cap off of the top of the strut tower when they/one of them are bad. haven't yet had the displeasure of having to do one on a caddy tho so that may not be something that happens in this car..

but for the love of God save yourself $850, cancel the order, and figure out what's wrong with it before you turn this possibly easy fix in to an 1800 dollar repair!

even if you do the work yourself you are going to spend 15 hours mostly heating and freeing rusted bolts and and squeezing yourself under a car and will need an 80 dollar alignment and 50 dollars worth of power steering fluid and transmission fluid. you'd be wasting your money if you didn't check the simple stuff first. if ends up being a tie rod end and your massive investment doesn't fix it, you will kick yourself in the head on the way back from the parts store a week or two from now with a 19 dollar replacement tie rod end and a can of bearing grease :o

oh and if the tie rod was on point and that does turn out to be problematic.. you can avoid having to do an alignment when you are done with the work (provided it's not pulling or too toed in/out now.. check your tire wear) by marking exactly which thread the old tie rod was tightened to before you remove it. use a paint marker available at pepboys or probably any hobby store and just install the new one to that line before you seal it in.

jeez.. if i were to save you from two or three more of these, you could buy a lift for your garage :)

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or that.. but on most vehicles i've replaced strut mounts on, you can hear a nice steady squeeking sound through the range of your steering wheel and can see the top of the strut mount moving around if you take the plastic cap off of the top of the strut tower when they/one of them are bad. haven't yet had the displeasure of having to do one on a caddy tho so that may not be something that happens in this car..

but for the love of God save yourself $850, cancel the order, and figure out what's wrong with it before you turn this possibly easy fix in to an 1800 dollar repair!

even if you do the work yourself you are going to spend 15 hours mostly heating and freeing rusted bolts and and squeezing yourself under a car and will need an 80 dollar alignment and 50 dollars worth of power steering fluid and transmission fluid. you'd be wasting your money if you didn't check the simple stuff first. if ends up being a tie rod end and your massive investment doesn't fix it, you will kick yourself in the head on the way back from the parts store a week or two from now with a 19 dollar replacement tie rod end and a can of bearing grease :o

oh and if the tie rod was on point and that does turn out to be problematic.. you can avoid having to do an alignment when you are done with the work (provided it's not pulling or too toed in/out now.. check your tire wear) by marking exactly which thread the old tie rod was tightened to before you remove it. use a paint marker available at pepboys or probably any hobby store and just install the new one to that line before you seal it in.

jeez.. if i were to save you from two or three more of these, you could buy a lift for your garage :)

I am confused here, what did he order that was $850, did I miss something? My impression is that he IS diagnosing this. I don't personally think he has a bad axle, but from what I can see he is taking suggestions as to what it COULD be and WHAT to look for. Your suggestion of grabbing the wheel to look for play is a good one.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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chasing dreams, I am sitting here making dinner thinking what was it about your post that bothered me.

And what it was, was your implication that I was steering him wrong, FORCING HIM to buy a STRUT MOUNT for A BIG $85 and change it. DID I say that? I said, CHECK IT.... Along with the STRUT ROD BUSHINGS. MY REASONING FOR THE STRUT ROD WAS BECAUSE REGIS ALSO WITH A 94 STS HAD A BAD STRUT MOUNT. IN ADDITION, REGIS'S STRUT ROD WAS LOOSE WHERE IT WAS RIVETED TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM AND HE NEEDED A LOWER CONTROL ARM!!! UNUSUAL HUH?

We have had members having bad STRUT MOUNTS and they DON'T always SQUEAK on the FULL turn as my dont PLYMOUTH BREEZE'S does, they sometime pop and make noise. Also, I know MACs car is OLD here and if he has NOT replaced the strut rod bushings I KNOW they are SHOT, when that happens the strut rod can CONTACT the CARRIAGE and make noise. THESE ARE SUGGESTIONS and MY SUGGESTIONS WERE NOT ATTEMPTING TO TRUMP YOUR SUGGESTIONS IN ANY WAY. WE ALL ADD OUR EXPERIENCE ITS CALLED BRAINSTORMING. SOME OF US INCLUDING ME COULD BE WAY OFF BASE, BUT THIS IS PART OF THE DIAG PROCESS.

LET ME MAKE SOMETHING CLEAR WE ARE NOT COMPETING HERE, AND WE DON'T CRITICIZE OTHER'S OPINIONS OR SUGGESTIONS.

FRONT ENDS ARE VERY HARD TO DIAGNOSE ESPECIALLY OVER A COMPUTER. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT MAC IS HAVING DIFFICULTY FINDING THIS PROBLEM AND IF I KNOW MAC HE HAS ALREADY PUSHED AND PRODDED HIS FRONT END.


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I just want to say that the axle I bought is a USED OEM off of ebay. The seller says they are used but in good shape. It cost about $34, which includes shipping. With all that I read about remanufactured axles being unreliable, I decided to buy a used OEM. Sorry about the misleading post indicating that I spent over $640. I just wanted to use the diagram. :rolleyes:

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chasing dreams, I am sitting here making dinner thinking what was it about your post that bothered me.

And what it was, was your implication that I was steering him wrong, FORCING HIM to buy a STRUT MOUNT for A BIG $85 and change it. DID I say that? I said, CHECK IT.... Along with the STRUT ROD BUSHINGS. MY REASONING FOR THE STRUT ROD WAS BECAUSE REGIS ALSO WITH A 94 STS HAD A BAD STRUT MOUNT. IN ADDITION, REGIS'S STRUT ROD WAS LOOSE WHERE IT WAS RIVETED TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM AND HE NEEDED A LOWER CONTROL ARM!!! UNUSUAL HUH?

We have had members having bad STRUT MOUNTS and they DON'T always SQUEAK on the FULL turn as my dont PLYMOUTH BREEZE'S does, they sometime pop and make noise. Also, I know MACs car is OLD here and if he has NOT replaced the strut rod bushings I KNOW they are SHOT, when that happens the strut rod can CONTACT the CARRIAGE and make noise. THESE ARE SUGGESTIONS and MY SUGGESTIONS WERE NOT ATTEMPTING TO TRUMP YOUR SUGGESTIONS IN ANY WAY. WE ALL ADD OUR EXPERIENCE ITS CALLED BRAINSTORMING. SOME OF US INCLUDING ME COULD BE WAY OFF BASE, BUT THIS IS PART OF THE DIAG PROCESS.

LET ME MAKE SOMETHING CLEAR WE ARE NOT COMPETING HERE, AND WE DON'T CRITICIZE OTHER'S OPINIONS OR SUGGESTIONS.

FRONT ENDS ARE VERY HARD TO DIAGNOSE ESPECIALLY OVER A COMPUTER. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT MAC IS HAVING DIFFICULTY FINDING THIS PROBLEM AND IF I KNOW MAC HE HAS ALREADY PUSHED AND PRODDED HIS FRONT END.

BBF, I appreciate your input!

This problem has been driving me crazy. I think your suggestion that the culprit may be a strut mount and/or bearing are good possibilities. In fact, this suggestion seems to fall in line with the difficulty of pinning this problem down because I can't see the mounts and bearings. I have tried to shake the strut and every other part that could possibly be causing a popping and squeak. In fact, while doing a detailed inspection, I learned that I'm missing the right inner engine cradle mount, so I bought the OEM parts and took care of it. At any rate, I have jacked the car up and have shaken the right strut a number of times to see if there is any movement, but it seems to be solid. Yet, this may simply mean that it takes a heavy load and torque to force the strut out of alignment due to a defective mount and/or bearing. Actually, I have priced the strut mount several times but haven't made a purchase because I was hoping to be able to pin this down to the exact problem instead of possibly guessing wrong and spending money on parts I don't need.

At this point, however, I am resigned to making educated guesses based on the very knowledgeable and experienced input from people here on Caddyinfo. I would not be surprised if you are correct in your assessment that there may be a bad strut mount and/or bearing.

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Ill contact Regis and get him to detail the symptoms he was having when he replaced his strut mount.

The really odd thing that he had was the loose rivets on his 94, where the strut rod is riveted to the lower control arm the rivets were loose the he was getting a popping from it.

Ill flag him over to comment on his symptoms, I know he went nuts trying to fix it also..

By the way, Regis had a baby girl about a month ago, Congratulations!


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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woah woah mike.. sorry about my last post i guess. didn't mean to offend you.. and no, i wasn't discounting your post, i was (if you read it again) saying that it probably isn't his AXLE and encouraging him to look at the other causes of random popping noises while turning. i made it clear that i've never done struts/mounts on a caddy before but that i have also never had a bad mount be the cause of popping, but usually squeeking or grinding when the wheels are turned. looking back on my post, it does seem a bit competitive and maybe arrogant and i apologize if you took it that way but that was not its intention.. i was just relaying my experiences with these problems and what in my (admittedly limited) experience has seemed to take care of the problem behind these particular symptoms. i was trying to save a fellow caddyinfo member money and a bunch of unnecessarilly wasted time and did suggest he look in to the suspension and steering before replacing the entire axle assembly without a guarantee of it actually solving his problem as i thought he bought the one in the link that he posted to illustrate his purchase for like $850 or something without looking further in to it. i guess we can chalk the misunderstanding up to a comedy of errors on my part and i apologize.. but i don't need 4 paragraphs of you eYelling at me to get that i made a mistake. truth is, its hard to diagnose any type of front end noise because the symptoms of a lot of them are pretty much the same. it could just as easilly be a strut mount, tie rod or end, cv joint, or maybe even a cracked out subframe mount or something similar that we wouldn't even think of.

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Check the CV joints.

I just bought a used OEM axle, which is depicted a #1.

I'm taking a shot in the dark but I have to figure this out. I think your suggestion sounds like a good possibility. Since I'm 99% sure that the right side is where the popping is coming from, I replace the right Axle first.

and this is the spark that ignited the post in question. thought he went and bought the axle from newgmparts.com on a whim

sorry for the misunderstanding mac.. didn't quite read the "depicted in" part as well as the rest of the post. i like pictures a lot better than words i guess and i'm a jew so high prices strike a heart string with me :)

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woah woah mike.. sorry about my last post i guess. didn't mean to offend you.. and no, i wasn't discounting your post, i was (if you read it again) saying that it probably isn't his AXLE and encouraging him to look at the other causes of random popping noises while turning. i made it clear that i've never done struts/mounts on a caddy before but that i have also never had a bad mount be the cause of popping, but usually squeeking or grinding when the wheels are turned. looking back on my post, it does seem a bit competitive and maybe arrogant and i apologize if you took it that way but that was not its intention.. i was just relaying my experiences with these problems and what in my (admittedly limited) experience has seemed to take care of the problem behind these particular symptoms. i was trying to save a fellow caddyinfo member money and a bunch of unnecessarilly wasted time and did suggest he look in to the suspension and steering before replacing the entire axle assembly without a guarantee of it actually solving his problem as i thought he bought the one in the link that he posted to illustrate his purchase for like $850 or something without looking further in to it. i guess we can chalk the misunderstanding up to a comedy of errors on my part and i apologize.. but i don't need 4 paragraphs of you eYelling at me to get that i made a mistake. truth is, its hard to diagnose any type of front end noise because the symptoms of a lot of them are pretty much the same. it could just as easilly be a strut mount, tie rod or end, cv joint, or maybe even a cracked out subframe mount or something similar that we wouldn't even think of.

No problem, I was in a bit of a bitchy mood that day and was being sensitive. I took your post as a slam. We have seen some pretty wacky things happen. These front ends can be difficult to diagnose and everyones actual experience is helpful in figuring them out.. Thanks


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'm looking to buy this MCPHERSON STRUT COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR off of ebay.

This should work on my Eldorado? I'll replace the right side first, although I think both need to be replaced.

Also, a strut mount kit should come with everything i need including the bearing?

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I'm looking to buy this MCPHERSON STRUT COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR off of ebay.

This should work on my Eldorado? I'll replace the right side first, although I think both need to be replaced.

Also, a strut mount kit should come with everything i need including the bearing?

I used the screw type and it was very scary, I finally gave up and took it to a shop that did the job for me.

I did look at the one you are looking at, Harbor Freight carried it, if I were you, I would try to measure the diameter of your spring

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=43753

The strut mount is a self contained unit, Ill post a photo of one later, I think I have one on photobucket

Check your FSM out carefully, the strut, spring and mount has specific alignment indexes, mark the pieces carefully before taking them apart


Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'm looking to buy this MCPHERSON STRUT COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR off of ebay.

This should work on my Eldorado? I'll replace the right side first, although I think both need to be replaced.

Also, a strut mount kit should come with everything i need including the bearing?

I used the screw type and it was very scary, I finally gave up and took it to a shop that did the job for me.

I did look at the one you are looking at, Harbor Freight carried it, if I were you, I would try to measure the diameter of your spring

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=43753

The strut mount is a self contained unit, Ill post a photo of one later, I think I have one on photobucket

Check your FSM out carefully, the strut, spring and mount has specific alignment indexes, mark the pieces carefully before taking them apart

I looked at the FSM and I didn't see anything about alignment indexes. I'll look at it again more carefully to make sure I didn't miss anything and that I understand everything I need to know. Years ago I made my own coil spring compressors out of 1-inch wide flat steel that I bought at Home Depot. I cut two pieces of steel to length for each compressor and took a propane torch and heated it so I could bend a hook on one side and then bent it outwards. I then quenched it to harden the steel. I drilled a hole for a long carriage bolt with a double nut to bridge the gap between two separated hooks. I would tighten the carriage bolt nuts and it would compress the spring. I made two of them and they worked well. But I can’t find them so I figured that would buy a spring compressor to avoid possible problems and just get the job done. I will take a rough measurement of the spring and if it looks to be obviously within the spring compressor’s specs then I'll buy it.

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This seems to sound like an end link problem. A worn one would bang around certain turns, take offs, and uneven surfaces.


"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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This seems to sound like an end link problem. A worn one would bang around certain turns, take offs, and uneven surfaces.

I replaced both end links thinking the same thing with ACDelco, which now have grease fittings. I think something is going on with the struts and/or strut mounts. My OEM salvage yard axle arrived today so I can replace the one on the right. But I think, however, that I will first go after the strut mounts. When I look at the strut mount nuts, I see that the prior owner must have worked on the struts and/or mounts because the nuts are not the originals. Maybe he replaced the mounts with poor quality aftermarket and now they again have to be replaced?!

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This seems to sound like an end link problem. A worn one would bang around certain turns, take offs, and uneven surfaces.

I replaced both end links thinking the same thing with ACDelco, which now have grease fittings. I think something is going on with the struts and/or strut mounts. My OEM salvage yard axle arrived today so I can replace the one on the right. But I think, however, that I will first go after the strut mounts. When I look at the strut mount nuts, I see that the prior owner must have worked on the struts and/or mounts because the nuts are not the originals. Maybe he replaced the mounts with poor quality aftermarket and now they again have to be replaced?!

How old are the end links? Didn't know you could get them with grease fittings since the joints are so small. Assuming the fittings, when was the last time you pushed grease into them? Did they ever run dry? Once a wear spot is formed no amount of grease would prevent them from banging, given the dynamics of the end link and the load they support.

Another thought I have is the strut mount bearing plate. If it has seized up then it would cause the spring to load up and release. This would cause an audible popping sound. Easy way to tell if it is a seized bearing plate is to take the car, somewhat, aggressively on on and off ramps. Assuming that the ramps are the turn style and not straight, you should notice a sensation where the two front tires seem to be fighting each other.

One more possibility that could be a contributor and or cause to the problem is the strut bar bushing. It's impossible to tell if the bushing has broken down until you remove it. If you are very very lucky (doubtful) you'll have some rust flakes push pass to the outer end of the bushing, indicating a metal to metal contact. If it is the strut bar bushing then you would get a popping sound yet not notice any abnormal wear or driving issues, just the sound. However, if you're attuned to your car you may notice a floating sensation at high sustained speeds.

Good luck.


"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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I looked at the FSM and I didn't see anything about alignment indexes. I'll look at it again more carefully to make sure I didn't miss anything and that I understand everything I need to know. Years ago I made my own coil spring compressors out of 1-inch wide flat steel that I bought at Home Depot. I cut two pieces of steel to length for each compressor and took a propane torch and heated it so I could bend a hook on one side and then bent it outwards. I then quenched it to harden the steel. I drilled a hole for a long carriage bolt with a double nut to bridge the gap between two separated hooks. I would tighten the carriage bolt nuts and it would compress the spring. I made two of them and they worked sell. But I can’t find them so I figured that would buy a spring compressor to avoid possible problems and just get the job done. I will take a rough measurement of the spring and if it looks to be obviously within the spring compressor’s specs then I'll buy it.

that's freekin awesome man. i've spent hours crafting specialty tools that i didn't wanna spend a shitload of money on and i make special places on my garage walls for the ones that work even though i will likely NEVER use them again ;)

as for that strut compressor from harbor freight - it'll work for this car because the entire strut comes out in one piece and you just have to fit the thing around the struts as you jack the vehicle from the lower control arm but that looks like a shaky torquing screw and if its another car that you would have to compress the springs on enough to unseat from the frame from i've always had to really crank on the bolts on the tighter springs.. i've never tried one like the one you are looking at but i can see how it might be much easier to position and therefore probably use..

but i have had great luck with something similar to http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan...spring_tool.htm

that i rented ("rented" :)) from pepboys for like 26 dollars and some shortened bolts from lowes for some of the tight fitting spots they've made it in to. just a suggestion but like i said i've never actually done the work on these ones though i've spent way too much time with my face right next to it all :o

been workin on this project for a long while now - after i get her running, passing emmisions, and blowing air, i need to do the front struts.. let us know how it goes

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This seems to sound like an end link problem. A worn one would bang around certain turns, take offs, and uneven surfaces.

I replaced both end links thinking the same thing with ACDelco, which now have grease fittings. I think something is going on with the struts and/or strut mounts. My OEM salvage yard axle arrived today so I can replace the one on the right. But I think, however, that I will first go after the strut mounts. When I look at the strut mount nuts, I see that the prior owner must have worked on the struts and/or mounts because the nuts are not the originals. Maybe he replaced the mounts with poor quality aftermarket and now they again have to be replaced?!

How old are the end links? Didn't know you could get them with grease fittings since the joints are so small. Assuming the fittings, when was the last time you pushed grease into them? Did they ever run dry? Once a wear spot is formed no amount of grease would prevent them from banging, given the dynamics of the end link and the load they support.

Another thought I have is the strut mount bearing plate. If it has seized up then it would cause the spring to load up and release. This would cause an audible popping sound. Easy way to tell if it is a seized bearing plate is to take the car, somewhat, aggressively on on and off ramps. Assuming that the ramps are the turn style and not straight, you should notice a sensation where the two front tires seem to be fighting each other.

One more possibility that could be a contributor and or cause to the problem is the strut bar bushing. It's impossible to tell if the bushing has broken down until you remove it. If you are very very lucky (doubtful) you'll have some rust flakes push pass to the outer end of the bushing, indicating a metal to metal contact. If it is the strut bar bushing then you would get a popping sound yet not notice any abnormal wear or driving issues, just the sound. However, if you're attuned to your car you may notice a floating sensation at high sustained speeds.

Good luck.

I just replaced the end links this last fall. I filled them with multipurpose grease. The symptoms you discussed are what I'm experiencing. I have turned the wheel hard back and forth while driving several times at 25+mph and I get a popping and squeaking sound appears to be coming from the struts. It's even sends a slight vibration into the passenger compartment. Lately, I've noticed a slight amount of tightening while turning the wheel at a standing position. I have noticed a slight amount of a floating sensation as well at higher speeds, but it's very subtle. I can turn the wheel while driving and really don't get an obvious indication of left fighting right. But when I take off from a standing position and brake, it pops. And the squeaking can't be missed either--like a loud squeaky old bed. Coil spring--Right! :blink:

It's gotta be the the strut mounts. I'm going to order the strut compressor and replace the right strut.

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that's freekin awesome man. i've spent hours crafting specialty tools that i didn't wanna spend a shitload of money on and i make special places on my garage walls for the ones that work even though i will likely NEVER use them again ;)

as for that strut compressor from harbor freight - it'll work for this car because the entire strut comes out in one piece and you just have to fit the thing around the struts as you jack the vehicle from the lower control arm but that looks like a shaky torquing screw and if its another car that you would have to compress the springs on enough to unseat from the frame from i've always had to really crank on the bolts on the tighter springs.. i've never tried one like the one you are looking at but i can see how it might be much easier to position and therefore probably use..

but i have had great luck with something similar to http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan...spring_tool.htm

that i rented ("rented" :)) from pepboys for like 26 dollars and some shortened bolts from lowes for some of the tight fitting spots they've made it in to. just a suggestion but like i said i've never actually done the work on these ones though i've spent way too much time with my face right next to it all :o

been workin on this project for a long while now - after i get her running, passing emmisions, and blowing air, i need to do the front struts.. let us know how it goes

Thanks for the tips. I think the compressor should work fine too. I thought about buying the type of compressors you use, which is similar to what I made, but compressing the spring in one shot would be convenient. At this point, I'm looking to get it done and get it over with. If I rent a compressor it's almost like paying for the one on Harbor Freight. So why not add it to my tools.

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I used the screw type and it was very scary, I finally gave up and took it to a shop that did the job for me.

I did look at the one you are looking at, Harbor Freight carried it, if I were you, I would try to measure the diameter of your spring

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=43753

The strut mount is a self contained unit, Ill post a photo of one later, I think I have one on photobucket

Check your FSM out carefully, the strut, spring and mount has specific alignment indexes, mark the pieces carefully before taking them apart

Thanks for the heads-up on the alignment indexes because the FSM does state to scribe marks on the strut to knuckel interface. It also says:

Important

Flat on upper spring seat must face out from centerline of vehicle, or when mounted in strut compressor spring seat faces the same direction as steering knuckle mounting flange.

:huh: Say that again!

OK...I got it after reading it several times and looking at the diagram. :rolleyes::huh:

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I have noticed a slight amount of a floating sensation as well at higher speeds, but it's very subtle.

I have noticed this lately with my STS - at highway speeds, it feels like it wanders slightly while on straight sections of road. I checked all four wheels with the 3:00-9:00 and 12:00-6:00 force test and all four wheels were tight. I have noticed a noise from the right front strut while turning the wheel when pulling into parking places. I am starting to think it is the strut mount/bearing.


Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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