Scotty Posted June 8, 2004 Report Share Posted June 8, 2004 Sears makes some nice upright models that don't take up much floor space. What a great statement Kevin, I made a huge mistake not getting an upright, when I bought the one where the tank lays down, it takes up too much room! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted June 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2004 Why do you need to remove the caliper support? Once the caliper is removed, the rotor comes right off. Unless there was a different setup for the '97 vs. '96. Once you have an air compressor, you will wonder how you ever got along without one. Sears makes some nice upright models that don't take up much floor space. Kevin, I don't think you can remove the rotor without removing the caliper support. The manual says to remove the support, so I was going by that. I'll certainly check out the possibility of doing it another way. I've actually had an air compressor before. It was a real nice one. Upright, 30 gallon I think. It was just too much of a PITA to use. The air cord kept getting in the way (remember, I'm crawling around the garage with jackstands, I don't have a lift). It was just much easier for me to use hand tools. And this is when I pulled the engine from my '87 Regal and swapped it for a '79 Olds 403. I never even turned on the compressor. I decided that if I pulled an engine without one, there wouldn't be much use for me to have one, and I sold it to a buddy for good money. Even with the possibility of having to spend a little bit of money on an electric impact wrench, I couldn't justify the cost of a complete air compressor and set of air tools. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 8, 2004 Report Share Posted June 8, 2004 Why do you need to remove the caliper support? Once the caliper is removed, the rotor comes right off. Unless there was a different setup for the '97 vs. '96. Once you have an air compressor, you will wonder how you ever got along without one. Sears makes some nice upright models that don't take up much floor space. Kevin, I don't think you can remove the rotor without removing the caliper support. The manual says to remove the support, so I was going by that. I'll certainly check out the possibility of doing it another way. I've actually had an air compressor before. It was a real nice one. Upright, 30 gallon I think. It was just too much of a PITA to use. The air cord kept getting in the way (remember, I'm crawling around the garage with jackstands, I don't have a lift). It was just much easier for me to use hand tools. And this is when I pulled the engine from my '87 Regal and swapped it for a '79 Olds 403. I never even turned on the compressor. I decided that if I pulled an engine without one, there wouldn't be much use for me to have one, and I sold it to a buddy for good money. Even with the possibility of having to spend a little bit of money on an electric impact wrench, I couldn't justify the cost of a complete air compressor and set of air tools. Hmmm...I need to look in the manual on the caliper support. I had the rotors turned on my '96 a couple of years back and all I had to do to remove the rotor was to remove the caliper mounting bolts. They are only torqued to 38 ft-lbs so they came out easily. If I would have needed to remove the support bolts, I would have remembered what a PITA it was. but again, the '97 could be different than the '96. I know what you mean about the air hose and drop cord hose...my creeper wheels always seem to find them. I don't think the electric impacts have the ball-busting reverse torque that the pneumatics have. I could be wrong though.... My impact has saved the day numerous times such as removing lower strut bolts that have been corroded to the knuckle, axle halfshaft nuts, and other frozen/corroded fasteners. The oxy-acetylene torch also helps with corroded bolts.... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted June 8, 2004 Report Share Posted June 8, 2004 Kevin, my impact wrench does not seem to have GUTS, I don't think it would have the ability to remove frozen bolts like you describe. What kind of gun do you have, I have been disappointed with mine. Its a 1/2 Husky Professional that states 350 foot pounds, 8,000 rpm and requires 4 CFM at 90 PSI, and I use it with a 3/8 20 foot hose. It has not guts at all I can hold it and it just chugs. Any ideas, I was considering going to a 1/2 or 3/4" hose. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 8, 2004 Report Share Posted June 8, 2004 I have an Ingersoll-Rand IR-235 gun. I think it has 400 ft-lbs of reverse torque. There are times when I wish I would have spent a little more to get the 600 ft-lb model though.... It helps to set the regulator on the compressor to the max pressure - in my case, 135 lbs and start with a full tank of air. I only have one quick disconnect and that it at the tool end of the hose. All other hose connections are the threaded type. The quick disconnects seem to restrict the airflow. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted June 8, 2004 Report Share Posted June 8, 2004 I have an Ingersoll-Rand IR-235 gun. I think it has 400 ft-lbs of reverse torque. There are times when I wish I would have spent a little more to get the 600 ft-lb model though.... It helps to set the regulator on the compressor to the max pressure - in my case, 135 lbs and start with a full tank of air. I only have one quick disconnect and that it at the tool end of the hose. All other hose connections are the threaded type. The quick disconnects seem to restrict the airflow. Hmm I will try that, I am using two quick disconnects and only run 90 pounds at the regulator. Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 9, 2004 Report Share Posted June 9, 2004 Kevin, my impact wrench does not seem to have GUTS, I don't think it would have the ability to remove frozen bolts like you describe. What kind of gun do you have, I have been disappointed with mine. Its a 1/2 Husky Professional that states 350 foot pounds, 8,000 rpm and requires 4 CFM at 90 PSI, and I use it with a 3/8 20 foot hose. It has not guts at all I can hold it and it just chugs. Any ideas, I was considering going to a 1/2 or 3/4" hose. Mike I have the same problem. When the impact wrench won't break 'em I go for the breaker bar. I'm not sure but I think the impact is Sears. Air is not a problem, I have a 60 gal. upright 5hp and I modified the pop off valve to give me 150 psi. Sounds like I sould have popped for a better impact. <_> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pulque Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Well, I just installed the Raybestos QS <quiet stop>, so Ill see how they perform. I had no problem removing the caliper, it was only two bolts that required a special socket. After the caliper came off, the rotor just slid off. No need to remove the caliper mounting bracket, but my cadillac is a 94 SLS. Took about 1.5 hours and 1 hour at PepBoys while they machined the rotors. Not a bad time, and the pads were $69.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted June 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 Well, I just installed the Raybestos QS , so Ill see how they perform. I had no problem removing the caliper, it was only two bolts that required a special socket. After the caliper came off, the rotor just slid off. No need to remove the caliper mounting bracket, but my cadillac is a 94 SLS. Took about 1.5 hours and 1 hour at PepBoys while they machined the rotors. Not a bad time, and the pads were $69.00 Cool -- I'll be sure to try to get the rotor off without removing the caliper support. How much did Pep Boys charge you to cut the rotors? I'm now thinking very seriously about AC-Delco DuraStop ceramic pads. It says everywhere that ceramic is either the OE fitment, or the field service replacement, for this model, and I've had real good luck with AC-Delco brakes before, so I may try them again. It doesn't look like anyone is running the AC-Delco brake pads, so I'll see how they run. I think they'll be a bit more expensive than some of the others, but they've been worth it in the past. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted June 10, 2004 Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 I'm now thinking very seriously about AC-Delco DuraStop ceramic pads. It says everywhere that ceramic is either the OE fitment, or the field service replacement, for this model, and I've had real good luck with AC-Delco brakes before, so I may try them again. It doesn't look like anyone is running the AC-Delco brake pads, so I'll see how they run. I think they'll be a bit more expensive than some of the others, but they've been worth it in the past. I only use the AC-Delco pads, but did not know that ceramic were available. The reason I use AC-Delco is because I have seen aftermarket pads squeel, and it is usually blamed on the pads. I am going to look at the ceramic pads and radiused drilled rotors next time (its coming soon, my squeel sensor JUST started). Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted June 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2004 I've used Delco in the past and have been very pleased. On my previous vehicle, the Delco pads were riveted, instead of bonded, to the backing plates. It looks like the ones for the Caddy are bonded, but I haven't actually put my hands on a set yet, so I don't know for sure. Are the Delcos on either of your Caddys riveted? The site isn't that great, but here's a link anyway. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diRtY Posted June 12, 2004 Report Share Posted June 12, 2004 Performance friction carbon metallic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epluzy Posted August 11, 2004 Report Share Posted August 11, 2004 I know this post is a little late, but for anyone searching the archive who reads this. I just replaced all four rotors and pads on a 95 STS. I think the difference between some people taking off the caliper and the rotor coming off and the caliper support holding it on depends on front or rear. The rear of the car were a serious pain. I had to use a breaker bar and all of the support bolts. The fronts required a large allen wrench, but the rotors came off as soon as I took the calipers off. Just trying to clear up any confusion for anyone else trying this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoo Posted August 11, 2004 Report Share Posted August 11, 2004 I think it depends on RUST That's about it heheh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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