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FRONT STRUTS/SUSPENSION LINKS


dankhts

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I've replaced my front struts on my '96 STS with Arnott passive units. The link rod from the sway bar to the strut, from the factory, is a taper/press fit on both ends, but the replacement struts have a straight fit on them. I checked around, but couldn't source a repacemnt link with a taper fit on one end and a stright fir on the other. Has any one come across this before, and how did you solve it?

Dan

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E-mail or call Arnott and ask them what is the proper solution. Maybe they sent you the wrong struts by mistake.

-George

Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................

DTS_Signature.jpg

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George, I did e-maqil them to ask but haven't heard back yet. I think they use only 1 type of passive strut, and change the electronics for various model years to defete the computer. Mine were on order for a while as they were for a '96, and had to wait for the electronic components to become available. I found out that the factory links are either tapered both ends, or straight fit both ends depnding on the model year. The alignment shop that did the installation didn't tell me right away. The struts have been in for about 6 weeks now. Their work around was to double nut the top mount into the strut, which looks like it will work, but I'd rather have the proper connection.

Dan

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Interesting. I have the struts, but due to several other projects I have not put on the front struts yet. I will be looking for this condition.

If Arnott has not answered your e-mail (allowing for the hoildays), I would call them. I have spoken with them, and I got the feeling that their e-mail was a back burner item. They were hepful on the phone though, and my questions were answered right away.

-George

Drive'em like you own 'em. - ....................04 DTS............................

DTS_Signature.jpg

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George, I did e-maqil them to ask but haven't heard back yet. I think they use only 1 type of passive strut, and change the electronics for various model years to defete the computer. Mine were on order for a while as they were for a '96, and had to wait for the electronic components to become available. I found out that the factory links are either tapered both ends, or straight fit both ends depnding on the model year. The alignment shop that did the installation didn't tell me right away. The struts have been in for about 6 weeks now. Their work around was to double nut the top mount into the strut, which looks like it will work, but I'd rather have the proper connection.

Dan

Did they ever give you a reply? Reason I'm asking is I just received front and rears from them for my 97 STS.

I am waiting for my spring kit before I tackle this project.

Also seem to have a rack and pinion leak as well, may need to change more than just he struts.

Dennis
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The passive AC Delco struts I installed had the same issue but they came with install instructions on what to do if you encounter this. It lists 90 to 94 but it looks like it could affect other years. I have had them on for a few months and are very happy with them.

Joe

93 STS

post-3-1086225210.jpg

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Joe: I see that the diagram you attached shows a straight stud link, not a tapered one. The links on mine ('96) are tapered at both ends, but the holes in the struts are for a staright connection. Adam at Arnott was quite prompt in e-mailing me back - he said that most customers will install a washer on either side of the taper at the strut, and tighten the &*(# out of them, without experiencing any problems. I'm going to try it that way.

Dan

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Dan,

Mine links were straight and I had to drill out the hole as they were tapered. Below is my post from March. There were only 2 conductors to the struts. The wheel position sensors had 4. I have both wheel position sensors and shock control lines in the front bypased. The wheel position sensors are not needed with the passive struts but still can produce a 'Service Ride Control" message. I left the rears alone because they control the electronic leveling as well as controling the rear shocks. As a side note I got a Service Ride Control message and a S038 code this week. Looks like my exhaust is not working on my air compressor and the rear end is quite high. Tried to repair but no luck. Ordered a new pump head for $120. Maybe I can go for while without seeing that darn message

Joe

ordered the ACDELCO passive struts today from

https://www.rockauto.com

$170 including shipping. I used this link for the p/n

http://www.cravener.org/struts/Page0.htm.

I believe that I need two 10 to 12 ohm 25 to 50 watt resistors. I thought there was 3 conductors going to the struts. If there are 3 what ones do I use. Also has anyone found a way to bypass the wheel position sensors. The one I repaired last year seems to act up in cold weather. Its been awhile since I posted. Like the new format.

Thanks

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Joe: good article re the strut replacement. I bought a pair of Arnott struts, which are now installed and work well. My links are tapered, but all of the Arnott struts have straight holes - hard to get a tapered shaft to fit a straight hole, I guess, but, I'm going to try their suggested remedie. Next time, I'll get the struts you used, looks like they have a tapered hole in them for the struts.

Dan

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