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Escalade Oil Change


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Admittedly, for some of you, you know how to do this, and it would be a waste of time.

For others, I'm sure you are perfectly happy paying people to do these things.

You guys can move on.

However, if there is anyone here who would like to change his/her own oil, and doesn't know how, and was afraid to ask, keep reading....

Keep in mind, the pictures and descriptions are of a 2004 Escalade AWD, 6.0 liter V8, Vin N... If you're not sure, the 8th character in your Vin is your Engine code.

Now, for me personally, I am capable of sliding under the truck and doing this in the garage. If you feel you need the front of the truck on ramps, by all means, feel free to do that. I did this service and took the pictures with the truck on level ground in my garage. To be honest, the worst part is sliding under the running boards. After you get under there, there's plenty of room. Is it easier on ramps?? Yes. Necessary? Not really.

A few things you will need:

DSC07879.jpg

This is looking from the front passenger side into the engine bay. You will see the oil cap. Remove it. You will also need a 15mm wrench, get that handy now too.

DSC07880.jpg

You will also need an oil filter wrench (the round thing in the picture), an AC PF46 Oil Filter, and a 3/8ths drive to turn the oil filter wrench.

A note about the oil filter: my owners manual states PF44. However, the AC Website says PF 46. Also, the dealership I bought this from had a PF 46 on it. I presume the PF 44 has been superceded by the PF46. I went with the PF 46. If I'm wrong, please correct me, before I ruin my truck.

DSC07889.jpg

You will also need this, 6 quarts of 5w30. I use Mobil One. This is not the time to start another oil thread, so if you want to substitute Amsoil, Rotella 5w40 synthetic, Royal Purple, Wal Mart Super Tech, whatever, feel free.

You also need some kind of oil drain pan. Everyone has their own preferences, and they can be bought in a myriad of designs at auto parts stores. Some prefer a big yellow radiator pan. Bigger is usually better. You can decide that for yourself.

Note, I prefer to do this when the truck is warm. You get better oil drainage. Not that you HAVE to do it warm, but I prefer to...

Now then, lets slide under the truck, I usually go right under the driver's door, and move in. Start looking right down the middle of the truck, somewhat towards the front... You are looking for something like this:

DSC07881.jpg

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I am basically under my driver's seat, looking towards the front of the truck, and towards the centerline of the truck. You can see there your oil plug, and your oil filter. Don't panic, we're going to get the wrench out now...

DSC07882.jpg

Again, that's a 15mm wrench, you can see it there on the drain bolt...

Another quick note: if idiot techs (or more likely, the previous owner) have bunged up, damaged, rounded out, or otherwise abused your oil drain bolt, you may want to get a new one NOW, before you start... That way, when it's time to replace the bolt, you can throw your new one on there.

Some people think that vise grips are what you use to remove the oil drain bolt. NOT true!!! Do the world a favor and use the right size wrench...

Remove that bolt. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove.

Oil will begin draining. Initially, the flow will be very strong, position your drain pan accordingly...

DSC07883.jpg

As you can see, that's a gusher....

DSC07884.jpg

The flow will slow as the crankcase drains... You may have to move your drain pan, to stay under the flow of oil, so be prepared to do that if necessary.... unless you like oil slicks in your garage...

The flow will eventually be just a trickle or slow drip. If you wait forever, or get a phone call while it's draining, you may actually see it stop completely, although that's not really necessary... When it slows to a trickle, replace your drain bolt.

DSC07885.jpg

Now we will replace the filter. You obviously saw the blue thing in the previous pictures... that's your oil filter. If you take your PF 46 out of the box, you will see, that's the blue thing.

In that photo, I have placed the oil filter wrench over the end of it. Ahh, those come in a myriad of sizes. While you are at the parts place buying your oil filter, go ahead and try the ones they are selling on your oil filter, to make sure you're buying the right one, if necessary. They will not care. Everybody does that.

Also, you will see that I have attached the 3/8ths drive to the square end of that. There's also a "six-sided" bolt style thing on the bottom of some... you can do it that way too. I prefer the ratchet handle.

Crank the oil filter off, again, turning counter clockwise. Your pan should be under that. Oil will start coming out when you do this....

It will get loose after a turn or so, and you can finish by hand if you like.

DSC07886.jpg

Filter is off. See that metal area above, it's circular?? Where the filter gasket meets the metal?? Make sure that's clean. Also, make sure that the rubber gasket did not "stick" to that... It's rare, but can happen. If it's stuck there, and you spin a new filter on, you will have the dreaded "double gasket", which is to be avoided. That will leak HEAVILY when you start the truck....

It's rare... But it can happen. If yours looks like this picture, you are fine.

Spin the new filter on. When it's hand tight, use the filter wrench again to crank it on maybe another 1/2 turn or so, maybe as much as 7/8ths of a turn, depending on how strong your hands are, and how tight "hand tight" means to you. You are NOT cranking this on until it won't turn. What you are trying to do is seat that rubber gasket, and compress it some. Friends of mine are very cabable of doing it by hand only. When my hands are slippery with oil, I can't do it, I use the wrench. A decent guideline is when the gasket is fully in contact with the mating surface, go 7/8ths to 1 turn from there...

DSC07887.jpg

New filter in place. Nice. Make sure it's wiped nice and clean like this, so that if it does leak, you can see that right away...

To review, we have drained the oil and replaced the drain plug. We have replaced the filter, and it is now on tight.

Congrats!! You're getting close. Let's go back up topside.

DSC07888.jpg

I like to use a decent size funnel... You can see it there, in the oil fill tube....

DSC07890.jpg

Pour your 6 quarts of oil in there....

Remove the funnel, replace the oil cap, start the truck.

Run the truck for 30 seconds or so, and while it's running, check for leaks. You are looking carefully at the oil plug, and the oil filter. You will probably see no leaks.

Shut the truck off and check the oil. For mine, 6 quarts was perfecto, right at the full mark on the dipstick.

Hey, guess what?? You're done!!

This may have taken awhile, and that's fine. After you do it a few times, this can easily be done in 40 minutes...

Now, find some way to enjoy all the money you just saved.

Also, you will have to reset the oil life index...

I'm doing this from memory, but one of the steering wheel buttons on the lower left scrolls through a few things, the higher one I think, and one of those things it brings up is it will say "Oil Life 55%" or whatever percentage. If you change every 3000 or so miles, 55% is what I generally see, with my driving style.

When that's on the screen, press AND HOLD the lower right steering wheel button, the one with the funny arrow, like a carriage return on a keyboard....

The display changes to "Oil life XXX".... keep holding.

Eventually, it changes to "Oil Life 100%". Let go of the button.

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Nice post! :hatsoff: I was just reading a blog out on the net wherein the author was WONDERING how to change the oil in her vehicle herself. This type of write-up for her vehicle would do the trick. Now, we don't know what you have left out that would confuse a novice, but hopefully some who have never changed their oil will review your procedure.

Bruce

2016 Cadillac ATS-V gray/black

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The problem is, this is an easy one.... It's all right in front of you.

On my Envoy, you had to remove a plastic skidplate from the bottom, before you could see anything. And then the oil filter was still in a godawful place.... insane.

The 97 ETC was a snap, just like this one. 8 quarts is a lotta oil though, some pans won't handle it...

The 92 Eldorado I had wasn't bad, Oil filter wasn't on the bottom, though, was a little tricky.

99 Tahoe, very similar, but again, oil filter in a stupid out-of-the-way spot....

90 Eldorado, INSANE oil filter location. You'd really need to bring in a contortionist from Circque Du Soleil to change THAT F-ing thing... Even the dudes at oil change places hated it. The old 4.5 V8...

89 Trans Am GTA was really easy, almost exactly like the 97 ETC.

Yeah, I was trying to think, what would trip me up on this??? I've done it a thousand times...

One of my little pet peeves is this: EVERY VEHICLE should be like the Escalade. Drain plug, oil filter, easily accessible. These oddball locations for the oil filter are crap.... Just put it on the bottom already!!!

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  • 4 years later...

I am basically under my driver's seat, looking towards the front of the truck, and towards the centerline of the truck. You can see there your oil plug, and your oil filter. Don't panic, we're going to get the wrench out now...

DSC07882.jpg

Again, that's a 15mm wrench, you can see it there on the drain bolt...

Another quick note: if idiot techs (or more likely, the previous owner) have bunged up, damaged, rounded out, or otherwise abused your oil drain bolt, you may want to get a new one NOW, before you start... That way, when it's time to replace the bolt, you can throw your new one on there.

Some people think that vise grips are what you use to remove the oil drain bolt. NOT true!!! Do the world a favor and use the right size wrench...

Remove that bolt. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove.

Oil will begin draining. Initially, the flow will be very strong, position your drain pan accordingly...

DSC07883.jpg

As you can see, that's a gusher....

DSC07884.jpg

The flow will slow as the crankcase drains... You may have to move your drain pan, to stay under the flow of oil, so be prepared to do that if necessary.... unless you like oil slicks in your garage...

The flow will eventually be just a trickle or slow drip. If you wait forever, or get a phone call while it's draining, you may actually see it stop completely, although that's not really necessary... When it slows to a trickle, replace your drain bolt.

DSC07885.jpg

Now we will replace the filter. You obviously saw the blue thing in the previous pictures... that's your oil filter. If you take your PF 46 out of the box, you will see, that's the blue thing.

In that photo, I have placed the oil filter wrench over the end of it. Ahh, those come in a myriad of sizes. While you are at the parts place buying your oil filter, go ahead and try the ones they are selling on your oil filter, to make sure you're buying the right one, if necessary. They will not care. Everybody does that.

Also, you will see that I have attached the 3/8ths drive to the square end of that. There's also a "six-sided" bolt style thing on the bottom of some... you can do it that way too. I prefer the ratchet handle.

Crank the oil filter off, again, turning counter clockwise. Your pan should be under that. Oil will start coming out when you do this....

It will get loose after a turn or so, and you can finish by hand if you like.

DSC07886.jpg

Filter is off. See that metal area above, it's circular?? Where the filter gasket meets the metal?? Make sure that's clean. Also, make sure that the rubber gasket did not "stick" to that... It's rare, but can happen. If it's stuck there, and you spin a new filter on, you will have the dreaded "double gasket", which is to be avoided. That will leak HEAVILY when you start the truck....

It's rare... But it can happen. If yours looks like this picture, you are fine.

Spin the new filter on. When it's hand tight, use the filter wrench again to crank it on maybe another 1/2 turn or so, maybe as much as 7/8ths of a turn, depending on how strong your hands are, and how tight "hand tight" means to you. You are NOT cranking this on until it won't turn. What you are trying to do is seat that rubber gasket, and compress it some. Friends of mine are very cabable of doing it by hand only. When my hands are slippery with oil, I can't do it, I use the wrench. A decent guideline is when the gasket is fully in contact with the mating surface, go 7/8ths to 1 turn from there...

DSC07887.jpg

New filter in place. Nice. Make sure it's wiped nice and clean like this, so that if it does leak, you can see that right away...

To review, we have drained the oil and replaced the drain plug. We have replaced the filter, and it is now on tight.

Congrats!! You're getting close. Let's go back up topside.

DSC07888.jpg

I like to use a decent size funnel... You can see it there, in the oil fill tube....

DSC07890.jpg

Pour your 6 quarts of oil in there....

Remove the funnel, replace the oil cap, start the truck.

Run the truck for 30 seconds or so, and while it's running, check for leaks. You are looking carefully at the oil plug, and the oil filter. You will probably see no leaks.

Shut the truck off and check the oil. For mine, 6 quarts was perfecto, right at the full mark on the dipstick.

Hey, guess what?? You're done!!

This may have taken awhile, and that's fine. After you do it a few times, this can easily be done in 40 minutes...

Now, find some way to enjoy all the money you just saved.

Also, you will have to reset the oil life index...

I'm doing this from memory, but one of the steering wheel buttons on the lower left scrolls through a few things, the higher one I think, and one of those things it brings up is it will say "Oil Life 55%" or whatever percentage. If you change every 3000 or so miles, 55% is what I generally see, with my driving style.

When that's on the screen, press AND HOLD the lower right steering wheel button, the one with the funny arrow, like a carriage return on a keyboard....

The display changes to "Oil life XXX".... keep holding.

Eventually, it changes to "Oil Life 100%". Let go of the button.

Hi, its a excellent post and I love the way Patrick explained. I need a oil change. I searching different sites but couldnt able to find the correct until I find this website. I sure loe this site with very info about Cadillac escalade. Thank you once again.

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This is the best funnel I have ever seen for a GM vehicle. Here is an example, check around the price varies.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052XULN6/ref=asc_df_B0052XULN62637827?smid=A19YEMWPNMJ9N3&tag=dealtmp782866-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B0052XULN6

pics of my 2012 Sierra AWD Denali...........................................

DSC00205_zps3a1b71fe.jpg

DSC00203_zps695a5eca.jpg

DSC00204_zpsb4d7121c.jpg

Its screws right in like the filler cap and won;t move around. I have one, HD duty and rigid.

Edited by Z15
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