Stabilizer Link Removal

[tomcad95]

I have a 95 Deville and I need to change the passenger side stabilizer link, do I need a separator folk or something

to remove the link?

thanks

[JohnnyG]

No, the seperator fork is used to extract a tie rod end from the arm attached to the wheel hub. The stabilizer bushings should be relatively easy to do, and if the car is sitting level, shouldn't have any spring forces to contend with.

My only suggestion is that since you are going to tackle this job, you probably should do both sides at the same time. Doing only one side might change cornering characteristics slightly. Prob. not enough to be dangerous (unless in a panic situation) but enough to feel a little odd. This would be more important if you decide to go with different (harder) material for the bushings.

[tomcad95]

No, the seperator fork is used to extract a tie rod end from the arm attached to the wheel hub. The stabilizer bushings should be relatively easy to do, and if the car is sitting level, shouldn't have any spring forces to contend with.

My only suggestion is that since you are going to tackle this job, you probably should do both sides at the same time. Doing only one side might change cornering characteristics slightly. Prob. not enough to be dangerous (unless in a panic situation) but enough to feel a little odd. This would be more important if you decide to go with different (harder) material for the bushings.

Thanks, I have the front of the car raised to gain access, and after taking off the stabilizer nuts it won't budge. I need to take them off in order

to change the struts. Any Ideas

Thanks

[BodybyFisher]

I have always been able to detach the top of the stabilizer link from the wing on the strut. You should be able to detach it at that point, once the nut is off, use a brass rod, be careful not to damage the threads and give it a hard hit with a heavy hammer, it will back out.

[BodybyFisher]

I want to add, that I must also change my passenger side link, and while I know that the top will come loose, I am concerned about the bottom coming loose. Getting the lower connection loose is more difficult as the stabilizer bar is 'cushioned' by the bar bushings, so its difficult to get a good hit on it. I know that if I had the bar secured in a VICE, one hit with a heavy hammer would knock the stud out. Unfortunately, the stud faces inboard, so you can't easily get a good swing at it with a hammer. I looked at the stabilizer link last week, and have been giving the lower connection a lot of thought.

I will probably take the nut off, soak it down with a good penetrant, and try tapping it out, hopefully it will come out easily. Use a heavy hammer. I can see how a small fork could be useful here also.

[Delta]

I had a b**tch of a time with my 96 Seville links, air chisel was needed to kind of "vibrate" it out, one side took a half hour to get off. The studs are pressed in, must have been the factory ones, sweat job to get em out, there isnt any real place to press on them, and couldnt get a big hammer on em, no room.

[kens96]

Look at this link. They weren't easy and this is a Florida car that has seen no salty roads !

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...5&hl=kens96

[BodybyFisher]

I am going to try and remove mine this weekend, I HATE the noise its making....its ruining an otherwise terrific ride. I imagine that all of the pounding it takes cocks it in its bore.

[Delta]

Yup, lousy ride, but make sure you visit the other link listed, it is a bear because they are pressed in, and don't come out until you torture them out. Like I said, I had access to an air chisel and beat the hell out of them, one was easier than the other, but not by much, you pretty much have to destroy them to get them out.

[BodybyFisher]

Yup, lousy ride, but make sure you visit the other link listed, it is a bear because they are pressed in, and don't come out until you torture them out. Like I said, I had access to an air chisel and beat the hell out of them, one was easier than the other, but not by much, you pretty much have to destroy them to get them out.

Are you talking about Ken's link? He had a rough time getting it out. I actually COULD see cutting the ball end off, drilling a good size hole through it to 'weaken' it.

Has anyone looked to see how hard it would be to get the stabilizer bar out altogether? I think getting a clear shot at it with a heavy hammer would make it easier.

[Delta]

Yes, Kens link, I too think that drilling the stud would work, but I didnt think of it at the time, thought it might be hardened. Dremel tool is a good idea, because there is zero room there. I can't recall if you could try taking the whole stabilizer bar down, because it is usually still connected via the links. Even if you cut the ball and the thread off, there is still the tapered stud, and no room to swing a decent hammer, or any hammer by an means. I did it on the garage floor, I dont even know if a lift wouldve helped.

[BodybyFisher]

Yes, Kens link, I too think that drilling the stud would work, but I didnt think of it at the time, thought it might be hardened. Dremel tool is a good idea, because there is zero room there. I can't recall if you could try taking the whole stabilizer bar down, because it is usually still connected via the links. Even if you cut the ball and the thread off, there is still the tapered stud, and no room to swing a decent hammer, or any hammer by an means. I did it on the garage floor, I dont even know if a lift wouldve helped.

You have done this job and you are still smarting from it, I am NOT looking forward to this. Yes, it is probably hardened. I had not realized it was pressed in, where did you hear that? I could see myself using a small fork also, I need to stop by my local tool warehouse.

[Delta]

Yes, Kens link, I too think that drilling the stud would work, but I didnt think of it at the time, thought it might be hardened. Dremel tool is a good idea, because there is zero room there. I can't recall if you could try taking the whole stabilizer bar down, because it is usually still connected via the links. Even if you cut the ball and the thread off, there is still the tapered stud, and no room to swing a decent hammer, or any hammer by an means. I did it on the garage floor, I dont even know if a lift wouldve helped.

You have done this job and you are still smarting from it, I am NOT looking forward to this. Yes, it is probably hardened. I had not realized it was pressed in, where did you hear that? I could see myself using a small fork also, I need to stop by my local tool warehouse.

I cropped the pic and enlarged it, you can see the taper on the shaft.

I tried using a small fork, but again, after you start beating it, the whole thing becomes a floating barrel of monkeys!

[BodybyFisher]

Thanks for the photo. Is there a 'stop' at the top of the taper? Do you agree with me that because the bar is set in rubber bushings that it hampers your ability to get a good hit on it?

[Delta]

Thanks for the photo. Is there a 'stop' at the top of the taper? Do you agree with me that because the bar is set in rubber bushings that it hampers your ability to get a good hit on it?

Yes there is a stop, or edge, you can kind of see it in the pic. Not much, but yes. I believe that I took the first stud off the stab bar, but not sure on that one. The stab bar is a pretty firm animal. The WHOLE problem is getting a tool at the shaft, you pretty much have to beat the as* off of it. I still dont think I could have done it without an air chisel, It was the only thing that I could pretty much get in there, and when you finally get a grab on somethng, you can go at it. It doesnt necessarily shear the stud, but it vibrates the hell out of it.

[rek]

When I did mine, I used a three jaw gear-puller, to get the lower link out. You have to cut away the rubber boot to make room for the puller jaws. I tensioned the puller then gave it a good whack with a BFH, and out it came. I did have the rubber bushings removed, which permitted the sway bar to be lowered enough to get to the link ends.

[BodybyFisher]

When I did mine, I used a three jaw gear-puller, to get the lower link out. You have to cut away the rubber boot to make room for the puller jaws. I tensioned the puller then gave it a good whack with a BFH, and out it came. I did have the rubber bushings removed, which permitted the sway bar to be lowered enough to get to the link ends.

That is interesting, thanks

[kens96]

The stabilizer bar will not drop out of the car without removing the rear engine cradle bolts and lowering the cradle. For the drivers side I was able to use a bottle jack and wedge the stablizer bar against the lower control arm to firm it up to hit it with a 5lb sledge. I was not so lucky on the passenger side. that side got the dremel and drill work which was actually easier on the arms and hands than beating it with the sledge.

I don't have one but you night be able to, with the top of the endlinks removed from the struts and the stabilizer bushings removed, rotate the end of the stabilizer bar onto an anvil or large vise on the floor to get the stability you need to release the studs.

[tomcad95]

Do all the different models and years of Cadillac's have the pressed in stabilizer links?, and is it easier to get out if you have a floor jack or someting applying pressure to the bottom of the link if the car is raised off the ground.

[rek]

The S-Bar will drop enough to remove the lower link portion, if you have the upper ends disconnected and the bushings (frame) removed.

A FIVE pound sledge.....That's not a BFH, ...that's a toy. J/K...Whatever gets them out....

[BodybyFisher]

Ok I need opinions.

I was driving before and I got an idea, and smiled (and thought, you guys are going to think I am nuts).

What do you guys think of me, taking the lower NUT off the stabilizer link and DRIVING the car, until it breaks loose!

Opinions please...

[jking220]

Ok I need opinions.

I was driving before and I got an idea, and smiled (and thought, you guys are going to think I am nuts).

What do you guys think of me, taking the lower NUT off the stabilizer link and DRIVING the car, until it breaks loose!

Opinions please...

Thats thinking outside the box!!!

I think I can see myself trying this out of desperation... HMMMMMMM?

[JohnnyG]

Thanks, I have the front of the car raised to gain access, and after taking off the stabilizer nuts it won't budge. I need to take them off in order

to change the struts. Any Ideas

Thanks

Oh THAT stabilizer link. I must have been thinking of a '72 Chevy or something . Well at least you got some ideas!

[BodybyFisher]

Thanks, I have the front of the car raised to gain access, and after taking off the stabilizer nuts it won't budge. I need to take them off in order

to change the struts. Any Ideas

Thanks

Oh THAT stabilizer link. I must have been thinking of a '72 Chevy or something . Well at least you got some ideas!

Remember those?, easy as pie.... those were the days, no such luck here

I am going to remove the lower nut, its rattling like mad, the rattling is a good thing to break it loose. If I only could find a cobble stone stretch of road, it would be perfect... Question, Should I just loosen the nut or take it off altogether? If it breaks loose does anyone think it can do any damage?, Ill have to have a look... If I leave the nut loose, when it breaks loose, I will hear a different noise I believe. Then I can pull over and remove the top, (proper tools in car). I don't want to leave it loose in the stabilizer bar for long, because I don't want to bugger up the hole in the stabilizer bar from the banging. This of course is wishful thinking it might NOT come loose.... My gut tells me this will work.

Hmmm, downtown Manhattan, in the Meat District has cobble stone.... HMMMM

If this works it will be like Logan's THREADED ROD CARRIAGE DROP METHOD!

[rek]

"its rattling like mad"...sounds like there would be a lot of "lost motion", maybe not enough to loosen it. If one side did come loose, there would be even more slop....

If you try it, I'd just loosen the nuts...