Arnott rear air shocks

[KHE]

I took the '96 SLS on a short trip last weekend and noticed the rear of the car bouncing excessively. I rarely drive that car so I asked my wife how long it's been doing that and she didn't really know. The electronics in the right rear strut went bad at 72,000 miles and now the car has almost 130,000 on it. Now that the shocks are shot, It is time to replace them.

I couldn't find a set of AC Delco passive struts - either on AC Delco's website or by talking with the rep. on the phone so I checked with the local dealer to see if passives were available - Nope, not for the Seville.... $1500.00 EACH for the electronic struts. gmpartsdirect's price was $864.00 each.

Arnott's web site listed the rear shocks as a set for $301.00 with a lifetime warranty. I called them and they were running a special - $280.00 for the set including ground shipping. I ordered a set and they should be here Tuesday. As members know, they are direct fit and include the plugs to keep the "Sevice Ride Control" message from appearing.

This evening, I looked at the top mounting nuts and they are really corroded. I wire brushed them and sprayed them with penetrating oil but since the new shocks don't come with new top nuts, I think I'm going to buy a set as I know I'm going to need to use the oxy-acetylene torch to get them off...

I just can't believe the dealer pricing $3000.00 for a set of shocks??? Absolutely ridiculous!!

[Bruce Nunnally]

Yes, replacement cost for the electronic shocks is well, shocking. Can't wait to hear how much the new magnetic shocks cost to replace in 10 years.

The good news though is that you had other options, so no problem.

[KHE]

Yeah - at least the Arnotts are available and substantially less money. I hope they perform as Arnott states. I seem to remember the magnetic shocks were much cheaper than the old solenoid/actuator shocks but who knows.

Looking the old shocks, I can't see how there is even half the cost involved in producing them... I am going to remove and dissect the old actuator that is bad once the shocks are off. I actually can't wait to install them - If I would have ordered them two days ago, I would have been installing them this weekend.

[90IROC]

Yeah - at least the Arnotts are available and substantially less money. I hope they perform as Arnott states. I seem to remember the magnetic shocks were much cheaper than the old solenoid/actuator shocks but who knows.

Looking the old shocks, I can't see how there is even half the cost involved in producing them... I am going to remove and dissect the old actuator that is bad once the shocks are off. I actually can't wait to install them - If I would have ordered them two days ago, I would have been installing them this weekend.

I replaced my fronts with Arnott struts. They fit no problem and work well 2 years later. I would prefer to have the actives back but they were $1600 for 2 so forget that noise. I think I paid $300 for the struts.

[KHE]

They arrived Tuesday. I won't have time to install them until Sunday. I was a disappointed they were made in China but it is not like I had any real choice - it was either Arnotts or buying the active shocks which I was not about to do. The resistors don't fasten to the shocks anymore. At forst, I thought they included the wrong sensors but their tech. department told me they used to screw into a socket on the shock like the OEM solenoid valve but they failed due to the heat buildup from the shock so now they are just to be wire-tied to a component on the chassis. I didn't think a shock would build up that much heat but maybe that's what causes the OEM solenoid valves to fail.

I bought two new upper nuts since the hex socket portion of the existing shocks is so corroded, the allen wrench made the hex hole round when I tried to loosen the nuts... I am going to cut the nuts with a die grinder using an abrasive cutoff wheel.

[rek]

"I bought two new upper nuts since the hex socket portion of the existing shocks is so corroded, the allen wrench made the hex hole round when I tried to loosen the nuts... I am going to cut the nuts with a die grinder using an abrasive cutoff wheel."

I had the same "problem" doing the shocks on a Riviera. I used a 1/8" 4-flute carbide end mill, the slice 2 slots in the nut. I wanted to reuse the top "washer".

Good luck and remember the safety glasses....

[KHE]

"I bought two new upper nuts since the hex socket portion of the existing shocks is so corroded, the allen wrench made the hex hole round when I tried to loosen the nuts... I am going to cut the nuts with a die grinder using an abrasive cutoff wheel."

I had the same "problem" doing the shocks on a Riviera. I used a 1/8" 4-flute carbide end mill, the slice 2 slots in the nut. I wanted to reuse the top "washer".

Good luck and remember the safety glasses....

Thanks for the idea on the end mill - you used that in the die grinder right? I keep safety glasses in the die-grinder case so they are redially available.

The nuts I bought had fasher flanges on them and I haven't had the tire off the car to really see in there yet. I was going to heat up the nut with the acetylene torch and use vice grips on the shock shaft but did not want to buy new rubber mounts.

I am going to use anti-sieze on the new shocks and then fill the allen socket portion with RTV to form a protective cap. That should keep the water and corrosion out so if I ever need to do the job again, it will be much easier.

[rek]

I used a single speed Dremmel (29K RPM). I started the slot with a ball end mill (tip is rounded, more flutes, fine cut). Once I had the slot started (1/8 " deep), I switched to the 4 flute. Steady downward pressure keeps it in the slot. You can't let the 4 flute "dance" around or it will break off one or more of the flutes. I used a new one. It was pretty well spent after cutting both sides. Every now and then I'd blast the slot clean with brake clean.

I cut slightly into the stud, to be sure the nut was cut all the way through. I gave it a whack with a sharp chisel to part the nut, once I had the slots cut.

[KHE]

They're installed. I used a die grinder to saw a slot in the nut as far as I could go before cutting into the top washer. I then rotated the nut 90 degrees and used a cold chisel to split the nut. All in all, it wasn't too bad... I insalled the new shocks and then filled te hex cavity of the rod with RTV to seal it off. If I ever need to do the job again, the RTV will prevent corrosion and allow me to use a hex-hey to hold the shaft while I rrmove the nut. That's my theory...

[rek]

Good idea, filling the hex cavity with silicone... My replacement shocks (Monroe) had an external hex on top.

Enjoy your "New" ride...

[KHE]

After I got the second shock off the car, I came up with an idea that would have worked better than the die grinder. I should have welded a short 3/8" bolt to the top of the shock shaft. I could have used a box wrench on the welded bolt to keep the shaft from rotating.

I drove it around the block and it seemed to ride better. I can definitely feel the improvement when I push the rear bumper down and release it.

[Steve Oaks]

Arnott's web site listed the rear shocks as a set for $301.00 with a lifetime warranty. I called them and they were running a special - $280.00 for the set including ground shipping. I ordered a set and they should be here Tuesday. As members know, they are direct fit and include the plugs to keep the "Sevice Ride Control" message from appearing.

I just called Arnott, the guy basically called me an idiot when I asked him about a special on these struts. He says he has never offered them that low. Do you know who you talked to? The guy I talked to did not exactly have the manners to be answering a phone for a professional business.

[KHE]

Arnott's web site listed the rear shocks as a set for $301.00 with a lifetime warranty. I called them and they were running a special - $280.00 for the set including ground shipping. I ordered a set and they should be here Tuesday. As members know, they are direct fit and include the plugs to keep the "Sevice Ride Control" message from appearing.

I just called Arnott, the guy basically called me an idiot when I asked him about a special on these struts. He says he has never offered them that low. Do you know who you talked to? The guy I talked to did not exactly have the manners to be answering a phone for a professional business.

I don't remember who I talked to but the price he gave me was their ebay price. The guy I talked to was courteous.

[Texas Jim]

for the Seville.... $1500.00 EACH for the electronic struts. gmpartsdirect's price was $864.00 each.

I just can't believe the dealer pricing $3000.00 for a set of shocks??? Absolutely ridiculous!!

KHE,

And just think... that is just for the REAR TWO.

Add another 3 grand for the front, and you are looking at $6,000.00, JUST FOR NEW SHOCKS.

Thats unmitigated robbery. At least.

[KHE]

for the Seville.... $1500.00 EACH for the electronic struts. gmpartsdirect's price was $864.00 each.

I just can't believe the dealer pricing $3000.00 for a set of shocks??? Absolutely ridiculous!!

KHE,

And just think... that is just for the REAR TWO.

Add another 3 grand for the front, and you are looking at $6,000.00, JUST FOR NEW SHOCKS.

Thats unmitigated robbery. At least.

Agreed - the pricing of the replacement shocks/struts from GM is absolutely ridiculous. My SLS is in very good to excellent condition and even at that, it is probably only worth $4500. Shocks from GM would total the car out...