96 Sedan DeVille Traction Control Light AND ABS Light with Code TC0061

[fivepointohman]

ok well tonight we started with a new problem.. I get TC0061 code constantly even after I clear it, seems as though it starts off in second gear as if traction control is off. when i hit the button it does nothing... it's a 1996 seville 130K miles.. what does it mean? Having trouble finding some info on this one..

[BodybyFisher]

See these threads

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=13448

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9309

Check the ABS pump

We have seen the electrical connector corroded so badly one of the contacts was eroded away completely and it's time for a new pump!

[fivepointohman]

See these threads

<a href="http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=13448" target="_blank">http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=13448</a>

<a href="http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9309" target="_blank">http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9309</a>

Check the ABS pump

We have seen the electrical connector corroded so badly one of the contacts was eroded away completely and it's time for a new pump!

Ok i will check that tommarow... I also got a PC1634 that just came up which is a DTC P1634 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit .. Why all these at once I do not know.. Any help with that one would be great!

[BodybyFisher]

Clean your positive battery cable, its possible you are getting the codes because of a bad connection at the battery

[fivepointohman]

Clean your positive battery cable, its possible you are getting the codes because of a bad connection at the battery

Ok will do.. I will keep you all posted!

[fivepointohman]

Clean your positive battery cable, its possible you are getting the codes because of a bad connection at the battery

Ok, cleaned the battery connector... seemed ok... now I am getting many PZ codes and PC codes along with the usual.. Could this be just a bad PCM now? This is very wierd!

[BodybyFisher]

I forget, what work have you done to you car lately?

When you get mad codes like that its usually a bad ground or bad battery connection. Also don't overlook the battery as a source of problems.

[Cadillac Jim]

The original battery cable on your car has three cables with separate terminals sandwiched inside the red plastic insulator on the positive terminal. The three cables go to the alternator, the starter, and the main car power source, which is the maxifuse and relay block on the driver's side. If your car starts OK but you get lots of weird codes, the one to the maxifuse block probably has a bad connection inside the red insulator at the battery positive terminal. Corrosion can sometimes accumulate between the three terminals. I recommend this:

• Remove your watch and any rings to prevent shorts and burns while working on the battery. This is VERY important.
• Disconnect the ground cable from the battery and push it aside so it doesn't touch the battery negative terminal. This means that the battery isn't "hot" while you're working on it. This avoids dangerous embarrassments such as humongous arcs blowing dime-sized holes in your wrench and part of your motor, while welding the loose battery bolt solid into the battery terminal.
• Take the positive terminal off. Pry out all three of the terminals from the red insulator and clean between them. Use any battery terminal dressings and felt washers that you deem appropriate.
• Put the positive terminal back, making sure that the cable is tight (i.e. won't rotate easily when the bolt is tightened). Don't overtighten the bolt because it will strip easily in the lead threads, or, worse, pull the terminal through the battery case; instead, get a copper washer from your auto parts store and use that to tighten up the terminals if necessary.

[fivepointohman]

The original battery cable on your car has three cables with separate terminals sandwiched inside the red plastic insulator on the positive terminal. The three cables go to the alternator, the starter, and the main car power source, which is the maxifuse and relay block on the driver's side. If your car starts OK but you get lots of weird codes, the one to the maxifuse block probably has a bad connection inside the red insulator at the battery positive terminal. Corrosion can sometimes accumulate between the three terminals. I recommend this:

• Remove your watch and any rings to prevent shorts and burns while working on the battery. This is VERY important.
• Disconnect the ground cable from the battery and push it aside so it doesn't touch the battery negative terminal. This means that the battery isn't "hot" while you're working on it. This avoids dangerous embarrassments such as humongous arcs blowing dime-sized holes in your wrench and part of your motor, while welding the loose battery bolt solid into the battery terminal.
• Take the positive terminal off. Pry out all three of the terminals from the red insulator and clean between them. Use any battery terminal dressings and felt washers that you deem appropriate.
• Put the positive terminal back, making sure that the cable is tight (i.e. won't rotate easily when the bolt is tightened). Don't overtighten the bolt because it will strip easily in the lead threads, or, worse, pull the terminal through the battery case; instead, get a copper washer from your auto parts store and use that to tighten up the terminals if necessary.

OK well I took the cables out, they seem to look pretty clean to me.... The car seesm to keep coding worse everytime I start it.. I am getting PZ2042 and PC1602 with PC1571 now constantly along with the others.. Not sure what is going on.. This all started last nite all out of the blue.. where is a complete list of all DTC and Codes for this car?

[Cadillac Jim]

Lots of wierd codes that come and go are nearly always an electrical problem. Look for these codes:

B1981 Battery Voltage Low

P0562 System Voltage Low (TCM)

or other codes that indicate that the battery voltage is low. There are others; I just found these two on a quick scan of my database. If the battery is tired and the voltage drops below 9 Volts when starting, this will set scads of codes, usually but not always including one of the low voltage warnings.

Since it started suddenly, it still might be the battery cables, an engine or system ground, or even a cracked fuse. Check the battery ground cable on both ends, and use a DVM to make sure that the voltage between the engine and the battery ground cable is below 0.1 Volts (my spec, not a number from the FSM). If that checks good, have your battery load tested.

[fivepointohman]

Lots of wierd codes that come and go are nearly always an electrical problem. Look for these codes:

B1981 Battery Voltage Low

P0562 System Voltage Low (TCM)

or other codes that indicate that the battery voltage is low. There are others; I just found these two on a quick scan of my database. If the battery is tired and the voltage drops below 9 Volts when starting, this will set scads of codes, usually but not always including one of the low voltage warnings.

Since it started suddenly, it still might be the battery cables, an engine or system ground, or even a cracked fuse. Check the battery ground cable on both ends, and use a DVM to make sure that the voltage between the engine and the battery ground cable is below 0.1 Volts (my spec, not a number from the FSM). If that checks good, have your battery load tested.

I'll check for the ground next, The battery is pretty new not even a year old.. The codes after I clear them with the car still being on, come back as " current codes " ... this is just wierd.

[Cadillac Jim]

Write down the codes and post them here, and mark the ones that are Current. There could be a bad fuse or a cable unhooked or some such that the codes will identify.

[fivepointohman]

Write down the codes and post them here, and mark the ones that are Current. There could be a bad fuse or a cable unhooked or some such that the codes will identify.

I had teh battery tested at advance auto just now, battery came back in great condition... I have been driving the car around this afternoon, codes codes and more codes, and obviously starting of in second gear that i hate! But current codes as follows:

PC1644

PZ2042

PC1602

PC1571

The TC0061 has no longer come up... I checked the ABS module connector, terminals look clean no signs of any corrosion at all. Not sure what is going on...

[fivepointohman]

Write down the codes and post them here, and mark the ones that are Current. There could be a bad fuse or a cable unhooked or some such that the codes will identify.

I had teh battery tested at advance auto just now, battery came back in great condition... I have been driving the car around this afternoon, codes codes and more codes, and obviously starting of in second gear that i hate! But current codes as follows:

PC1644

PZ2042

PC1602

PC1571

The TC0061 has no longer come up... I checked the ABS module connector, terminals look clean no signs of any corrosion at all. Not sure what is going on...

OK re did the connection to the ABS block... now all I have is PC1860 and TC0061 again... SO better buty back to square A.

[fivepointohman]

Write down the codes and post them here, and mark the ones that are Current. There could be a bad fuse or a cable unhooked or some such that the codes will identify.

I had teh battery tested at advance auto just now, battery came back in great condition... I have been driving the car around this afternoon, codes codes and more codes, and obviously starting of in second gear that i hate! But current codes as follows:

PC1644

PZ2042

PC1602

PC1571

The TC0061 has no longer come up... I checked the ABS module connector, terminals look clean no signs of any corrosion at all. Not sure what is going on...

OK re did the connection to the ABS block... now all I have is PC1860 and TC0061 again... SO better buty back to square A.

OK after many disconnected and reconnects, I am left with the original issue.. TC0061 and the ABS light on with TRAC Control light on too.. I am stumped..

[winterset]

As BBF asked, was any work done on the car? also was there any water introduce under the hood via pressure wash / undercarriage wash?

You also might want to check behind the fuse boxes for corrosion & debree that might be causing a poor connection. Also check out all your ground cables (Thick black cables) all under the car and around the engine block/battery.

[Cadillac Jim]

TC0061 isn't an OBD II code but some 1996s had both OBD I and OBD II codes. I'm not famiiar with the format of OBD I codes in the 1996 model year, but some people here are. Here's what I get on my database for 061:

B0061 Roof Rail Module-Left Deployment Loop Circuit

T061 Motor Pump Circuit Fault

R061 SIR Indicator Circuit Failure

S061 Right Front Position Sensor Fault

P061 (E061) Cruise - Vent Solenoid Problem

The B0061 and R061 are air bag codes. The P061 code is an EVAP system code.

Both the OBD I codes T061 and S061 will cause the TCS light to come on. A T061 code would most likely be caused by the connector or wiring for the TCS motor, which is part of the TCS system in the engine bay near the left front wheel. An S061 code would be caused by an unplugged or other wiring problem right front suspension height sensor, or a link bent or disconnected on that height sensor.

[fivepointohman]

TC0061 isn't an OBD II code but some 1996s had both OBD I and OBD II codes. I'm not famiiar with the format of OBD I codes in the 1996 model year, but some people here are. Here's what I get on my database for 061:

B0061 Roof Rail Module-Left Deployment Loop Circuit

T061 Motor Pump Circuit Fault

R061 SIR Indicator Circuit Failure

S061 Right Front Position Sensor Fault

P061 (E061) Cruise - Vent Solenoid Problem

The B0061 and R061 are air bag codes. The P061 code is an EVAP system code.

Both the OBD I codes T061 and S061 will cause the TCS light to come on. A T061 code would most likely be caused by the connector or wiring for the TCS motor, which is part of the TCS system in the engine bay near the left front wheel. An S061 code would be caused by an unplugged or other wiring problem right front suspension height sensor, or a link bent or disconnected on that height sensor.

Nothing was done to the car lately at all other than a flush and refill of the coolant. yes the ABS motor was hosed down, but the connector is dry with no signs of corrosion.. Fuses all look good, I tested each circuit with a volt meter.. all checked out ok as far as i can tell. I found out the TC0061 is the TC/ABS pump fail... which makes sense as both of them are coming up with issues. So looks like a new ABS block is in order.. found one on Ebay for 400 bucks new.. just looks like another random part failure. Any other suggestions would be great! Thanks for all your help so far guys!

[fivepointohman]

TC0061 isn't an OBD II code but some 1996s had both OBD I and OBD II codes. I'm not famiiar with the format of OBD I codes in the 1996 model year, but some people here are. Here's what I get on my database for 061:

B0061 Roof Rail Module-Left Deployment Loop Circuit

T061 Motor Pump Circuit Fault

R061 SIR Indicator Circuit Failure

S061 Right Front Position Sensor Fault

P061 (E061) Cruise - Vent Solenoid Problem

The B0061 and R061 are air bag codes. The P061 code is an EVAP system code.

Both the OBD I codes T061 and S061 will cause the TCS light to come on. A T061 code would most likely be caused by the connector or wiring for the TCS motor, which is part of the TCS system in the engine bay near the left front wheel. An S061 code would be caused by an unplugged or other wiring problem right front suspension height sensor, or a link bent or disconnected on that height sensor.

Nothing was done to the car lately at all other than a flush and refill of the coolant. yes the ABS motor was hosed down, but the connector is dry with no signs of corrosion.. Fuses all look good, I tested each circuit with a volt meter.. all checked out ok as far as i can tell. I found out the TC0061 is the TC/ABS pump fail... which makes sense as both of them are coming up with issues. So looks like a new ABS block is in order.. found one on Ebay for 400 bucks new.. just looks like another random part failure. Any other suggestions would be great! Thanks for all your help so far guys!

Well I have decieded to change this freekin ABS Module.. i can get one for 150 bucks locally used... Has anyone run into any issues with the uninstall and install?

[BodybyFisher]

See this link first he had your PC1602 and other symptoms you have

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=15894

[fivepointohman]

See this link first he had your PC1602 and other symptoms you have

<a href="http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=15894" target="_blank">http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=15894</a>

Thanks but that didnt work out at all.. SO my next question is A. for now is it ok to drive the car starting in second or will I be hurting the tranny? Also do they sell the wiring harness that goes to the box itself? I may want to replace it just for giggles...