Passenger side ball joint

[lothos]

I'm going to be doing my passenger side ball joint by myself next weekend, my buddy that works on cars went to Iraq and didn't have a chance to help me out. I've seen him do the ball joints on my cutlass supreme, and the driver's side ball joint on the STS, and I'm confident I can do it myself.

I'm getting together a list of tools that I'll need to buy to do this. Can anyone add anything to this, or suggest something better to use? I have a craftsman 104 piece mechanics, a foot lbs torque wrench, and an inch lbs torque wrench. I also have the 1995 FSM and I just picked up a mini grease gun.

-a pickle fork (there's three sizes at the parts store, and I'm not sure which size to get)

-a rubber mallet (maybe a metal one would be more appropriate?)

-an angle grinder (my buddy uses one for the rivets, but I also have a nice drill if that is a better option! I've read about people on here using titanium(?) bits, is that easier and what size?)

Am I missing anything here? Anything better to use?

Thanks guys!

[BodybyFisher]

The FSM explains the process well. Grinding the rivets is a slow method. Center punch them and drill them out with the drill recommended in the FSM, buy a new drill bit

I would recommend taking the lower control arm off, putting it into a vice if you have one and drilling it, or at least drill it on a work bench, drilling it in place is too hard.

Your ball joint should break loose easily, using a ball joint fork, you may damage the ball joint grease seal, but you are replacing it so that is a moot point.

[lothos]

The FSM explains the process well. Grinding the rivets is a slow method. Center punch them and drill them out with the drill recommended in the FSM, buy a new drill bit

I would recommend taking the lower control arm off, putting it into a vice if you have one and drilling it, or at least drill it on a work bench, drilling it in place is too hard.

Your ball joint should break loose easily, using a ball joint fork, you may damage the ball joint grease seal, but you are replacing it so that is a moot point.

I don't have a vice, but I have a work surface on the top of that utility cart/tool cart I bought. I could pick up a center punch and a drill bit but I guess I'm not familiar with that process.

Looking at the FSM, the process doesn't seem that complicated. This post from MAC kind of explains how he drilled the rivets: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=370&hl

he also states that he used a 7/16 titanium bit. What happens if you drill the rivets out and make the holes bigger?

It looks like if you take the control arm off, there's the possibility of damage to the tri-pot joints and drive(?) shaft? I think I'd rather avoid that if possible. With that in mind would an angle grinder be an easier fit than a drill?

What's a ball stud nut wrench?

[adallak]

I agree with BBF, drilling rivets out is the best way (set the drill at the lowest speed, use hardened drill bit and lots of coolant).

[lothos]

I'm not fully understanding this part of the directions:

Tighten ball joint nut to 84 lb. in. using Ball Stud Nut Wrench 90 degrees to torque wrench. Tighten nut an additional 120 degrees. When tightening nut a minimum torque of 37 lb ft must be obtained. If required, turn the nut up to an additional 60 degrees to allow for installation of the cotter pin.

by "90 degrees to torque wrench" do they mean the ball stud nut wrench should be at a 90 degree angle on the torque wrench, or do they mean turn it 90 degrees?

I can't find any information on the Ball Stud Nut Wrench or it's part number J 35551 on google.

[BodybyFisher]

The FSM explains the process well. Grinding the rivets is a slow method. Center punch them and drill them out with the drill recommended in the FSM, buy a new drill bit

I would recommend taking the lower control arm off, putting it into a vice if you have one and drilling it, or at least drill it on a work bench, drilling it in place is too hard.

Your ball joint should break loose easily, using a ball joint fork, you may damage the ball joint grease seal, but you are replacing it so that is a moot point.

I don't have a vice, but I have a work surface on the top of that utility cart/tool cart I bought. I could pick up a center punch and a drill bit but I guess I'm not familiar with that process.

Looking at the FSM, the process doesn't seem that complicated. This post from MAC kind of explains how he drilled the rivets: <a href="http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=370&hl" target="_blank">http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=370&hl</a>

he also states that he used a 7/16 titanium bit. What happens if you drill the rivets out and make the holes bigger?

It looks like if you take the control arm off, there's the possibility of damage to the tri-pot joints and drive(?) shaft? I think I'd rather avoid that if possible. With that in mind would an angle grinder be an easier fit than a drill?

What's a ball stud nut wrench?

If you center punch the rivet good, and then drill right down the center, you will be fine, the rivet head will come right off either by itself or with a hammer and chisel. If you can find a vice to use, it makes the job SO much easier, here is my control arm off

I think you risk pulling the inner tri-pod joint out if you attempt drill it in place, just don't lift the wheel/strut assembly up too far, your control arm will push/move down. I have a thread someplace with my control arm in a vice, ill find it.

I would not use a grinder at all. A new sharp 7/16" gets it right out, use a 1/2 drill forget a 3/8' drill its a toy, I don't even think a 7/16 drill bit will fit in a 3/8 drill chuck.

[lothos]

I agree with BBF, drilling rivets out is the best way (set the drill at the lowest speed, use hardened drill bit and lots of coolant).

coolant?

[BodybyFisher]

I agree with BBF, drilling rivets out is the best way (set the drill at the lowest speed, use hardened drill bit and lots of coolant).

coolant?

Drilling oil, any type of oil will do, just keep squirting it, this way you don't burn your drill bit up. When you are drilling with that big of a bit, you only need about 300 rpm, you can feel it begin to bite, it will bite hard and cut. Too much speed is no good, drop your speed till you feel it grab. keep the drill at 90 degrees to the center line in both directions.

[Bruce Nunnally]

Also called cutting fluid or cutting lubricant.

Courtesy of Ace hardware:

[BodybyFisher]

One more thing, the 7/16 bit pops the rivets head right off, you don't need to drill it straight though, you can drill the heads off, spread the control arm a bit to clear the rivets and hammer the old joint out..

[BodybyFisher]

Bruce, I have a thread, where I had a series of photos of my control arm, the photos have been deleted, do we have the ability to get photos back that were attached on any old threads or are those photos gone? I think I might have those photos in my main computer, but its down now.

[Bruce Nunnally]

This post has some pics in that region: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...;hl=control+arm

Can you link the post with the missing pics?

[BodybyFisher]

This post has some pics in that region: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...;hl=control+arm

Can you link the post with the missing pics?

I can't find the thread Bruce, thanks

[lothos]

I would not use a grinder at all. A new sharp 7/16" gets it right out, use a 1/2 drill forget a 3/8' drill its a toy, I don't even think a 7/16 drill bit will fit in a 3/8 drill chuck.

I'll have to check my drill and see if it's a 1/2 or not. I got it at Menards about 8 years ago for my cable modem installer job. It was fairly expensive, and I used some pretty big drill bits on it for drilling through the sides of houses, so hopefully it's up to the task.

Is it pretty straighforward to pull the control arm off? I read the instructions in the FSM, but that warning has me concerned. I'd hate for this to turn into a bigger job than it has to be.

Anyone know what a Ball Stud Nut Wrench is? It's for the top nut under the cotter pin. I've looked at the part, and I don't see how I can torque it.

[BodybyFisher]

The problem is there is limited space to get in there with a box wrench at times. While it is not exacting, I usually tighten it very tight and then go tighter to get the cotter pin it, yes I know this is not scientific, but it works for me.

It is possible that a crowfoot wrench could allow you to torque that ball joint nut, but you would have to compensate for the added length of the crowfoot. The other problem is, the thickness of those split crow foot wrenches, you might not get them in above the stud.

http://www.skhandtool.com/Default.aspx?fus...0&pid=42287

What is needed is a low profile box wrench say 2 inches long with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch socket hole, I have not found any. I have always done this by hand, tightening it tight and then going to the next cotter pin hole.

[lothos]

The problem is there is limited space to get in there with a box wrench. While it is not exacting, I usually tighten it very tight and then go tighter to get the cotter pin it, yes I know this is not scientific, but it works for me.

It is possible that a crowfoot wrench could allow you to torque that ball joint nut, but you would have to compensate for the added length of the crowfoot

http://www.skhandtool.com/Default.aspx?fus...0&pid=42287

I don't have a lot of wrenches. I've had my eye on those GearWrench ratcheting wrenches at Sears for a while now. They're on sale until the 9th, and I think they have the lifetime warranty just like the Craftsman ratcheting wrenches. Would that be useful for this? Do you know what size wrench fits best on that ball stud nut?

I've put off doing my ISC motor because there's a hard to reach mounting nut on it. I'm not sure what size the nut is, but I'm thinking a GearWrench would be really useful for that as well. If they have a set that includes wrenches in both of those sizes I'll probably pick one up while they're on sale.

[BodybyFisher]

I can't remember if its 5/8, 11/16 or 3/4. Before you go out and buy a gear wrench for this take a look at the space you have above the stud, to see how much room there is. You might not be able to get a gear wrench in there.

[KHE]

I replaced a ball joint on my Park Avenue about 10 years ago and used a 1/4" drill bit as a pilot drill and then followed up with the large 7/16 bit. It was MUCH easier than starting with the 7/16" bit. I did the job with the control arm still on the car.

[lothos]

I can't remember if its 5/8, 11/16 or 3/4. Before you go out and buy a gear wrench for this take a look at the space you have above the stud, to see how much room there is. You might not be able to get a gear wrench in there.

I'm not sure if the original part can fit a socket or not, but the replacement part looks like it fits a 3/4 or 18mm. I might be able to use a socket and my torque wrench depending on how much room there is under there. Everything I've done so far for this car seems to call for metric, I don't think I've used the standard sockets in my tool kit yet. Even with the Cutlass I'd reach for the metric first, I'm not sure why.

This is the GearWrench set I was thinking of picking up:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...;sName=Wrenches

Are there ever situations where an open ended wrench is needed instead? They have a set for a couple bucks more with open ended ends as well, but it's missing the 9mm, 11mm, 16mm and 19mm. The set I linked to has 8mm to 19mm and both ends are box ends.

My drill is a Skil 14.4 with a 3/8 chuck, it's just a toy drill I think I found a bit that will work, if it's long enough. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...Name=Drill+Bits

I'm thinking something like a ballpeen hammer will work better than a rubber mallet, is that what you would recomend?

KHE, did you use a center punch or did you just start with the 1/4" bit?

[BodybyFisher]

I can't remember if its 5/8, 11/16 or 3/4. Before you go out and buy a gear wrench for this take a look at the space you have above the stud, to see how much room there is. You might not be able to get a gear wrench in there.

I'm not sure if the original part can fit a socket or not, but the replacement part looks like it fits a 3/4 or 18mm. I might be able to use a socket and my torque wrench depending on how much room there is under there. Everything I've done so far for this car seems to call for metric, I don't think I've used the standard sockets in my tool kit yet. Even with the Cutlass I'd reach for the metric first, I'm not sure why.

This is the GearWrench set I was thinking of picking up:

<a href="http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...;sName=Wrenches" target="_blank">http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...;sName=Wrenches</a>

Are there ever situations where an open ended wrench is needed instead? They have a set for a couple bucks more with open ended ends as well, but it's missing the 9mm, 11mm, 16mm and 19mm. The set I linked to has 8mm to 19mm and both ends are box ends.

My drill is a Skil 14.4 with a 3/8 chuck, it's just a toy drill I think I found a bit that will work, if it's long enough. <a href="http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...Name=Drill+Bits" target="_blank">http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...Name=Drill+Bits</a>

I'm thinking something like a ballpeen hammer will work better than a rubber mallet, is that what you would recomend?

KHE, did you use a center punch or did you just start with the 1/4" bit?

I can't remember if it is metric of SAE now. Kevin's idea of drilling a pilot hole is a good one.

[jking220]

KHE, did you use a center punch or did you just start with the 1/4" bit?

Center punch, then use the 1/4 bit.

[KHE]

I can't remember if its 5/8, 11/16 or 3/4. Before you go out and buy a gear wrench for this take a look at the space you have above the stud, to see how much room there is. You might not be able to get a gear wrench in there.

I'm not sure if the original part can fit a socket or not, but the replacement part looks like it fits a 3/4 or 18mm. I might be able to use a socket and my torque wrench depending on how much room there is under there. Everything I've done so far for this car seems to call for metric, I don't think I've used the standard sockets in my tool kit yet. Even with the Cutlass I'd reach for the metric first, I'm not sure why.

This is the GearWrench set I was thinking of picking up:

<a href="http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...;sName=Wrenches" target="_blank">http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...;sName=Wrenches</a>

Are there ever situations where an open ended wrench is needed instead? They have a set for a couple bucks more with open ended ends as well, but it's missing the 9mm, 11mm, 16mm and 19mm. The set I linked to has 8mm to 19mm and both ends are box ends.

My drill is a Skil 14.4 with a 3/8 chuck, it's just a toy drill I think I found a bit that will work, if it's long enough. <a href="http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...Name=Drill+Bits" target="_blank">http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...Name=Drill+Bits</a>

I'm thinking something like a ballpeen hammer will work better than a rubber mallet, is that what you would recomend?

KHE, did you use a center punch or did you just start with the 1/4" bit?

I used a center punch with a large ball peen hammer. You need a variable speed 1/2" drill - A 1/2" Milwaukee Hole Shooter is my drill of choice for a job like that.

[BodybyFisher]

As has been said, always center punch, it gives the bit a location to start. I have the 1/2" Milwaukee Hole Shooter drill that Kevin is speaking of also, it will break your wrist! I accidentally put it near a TV set and it magnetized the TV tube, I had to have the screen daguassed!.... Strongest drill I have ever used..

[lothos]

I used a center punch with a large ball peen hammer. You need a variable speed 1/2" drill - A 1/2" Milwaukee Hole Shooter is my drill of choice for a job like that.

Should I not bother getting drill bits for my 3/8" drill? It's variable speed.

[BodybyFisher]

Any bits you buy will fit both 3/8 and 1/2 drills but a 3/8 chuck usually has a limit to how big of a bit it can handle, that being 3/8" if I am not mistaken. A 7/16 bit is 1/16 bigger than a 3/8 bit so unless you get a stepped bit its not likely that a 7/16 will fit your 3/8 drill. Also, the bigger bits need more torque, you will find that a stepped bit of 1/2 will need more torque to drill a hole than your 3/8 drill is capable of handling at times.

If you don't want to go out and buy a 1/2 drill at this point, you can either rent one or borrow someones. Home Depot rents tools.