harry2967 Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hey Y'all! I need a little help here! I recently bought a 99 seville with 68,000 miles on it, about 2 months later the suspension started leak from the rear(shock) and also rack 'n' pinion went out also. Since then the repairs have been made and I'm a little disappointed that no one can seem to understand that my suspension is not functioning correctly! The front end bounces like I have pogo sticks in the front, and the rear sags very low to the ground, I can feel it bottoming out when I going over speed bumps or when going over bumpy road you feel every one of them! I pulled a code U1255 from the computer on the car also have a speed limited to 90 mph. To this point I'm stuck! I've taken my car to a mechanic who specialize working on cadillacs but to no avail! He says it fine, but if you look at the car you could tell that the car is uneven in the back of car or if I have three of my kids in the back seat of the car it looks like it is sitting on top of rear tire! I just want some sort of direction on what to do next with the car, because I don't want to keep taking the car shop just for someone to say "Well, there is nothing wrong with the suspension"! Help please, because those shocks are not cheap to replace! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 The U1255 is a network code meaning that a message was lost. This happens occasionally and unless it is Current it probably doesn't mean anything. What it sounds like is that they replaced your rear shocks with variable height units but didn't hook up the air pump, or the wiring. To keep the codes off, they may have disconnected the height sensors and wired them to show constant height or some such, and put resistors on the connectors for the shocks. This whole thing sounds like a classic case of hanyaks that think they know everything because it was OK on a 1953 Packard, doing their thing and shining you on. You need another mechanic. If you pick out another, look for certification stickers on the office wall and match the names with the nametags on the people actually present and working on cars. Watch their lot for a couple of weeks for 1990's Cadillacs. If there are none, or if you see one that never moves, look elsewhere. If you see one or two come and go, talk to their face and see if you detect sensitivity and intelligence. Ask about the ride-sensing suspension and the automatic leveling and see if you detect some familiarity with things. Run all the codes and post them here, and keep us posted. Here's how to run the codes: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry2967 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 The U1255 is a network code meaning that a message was lost. This happens occasionally and unless it is Current it probably doesn't mean anything. What it sounds like is that they replaced your rear shocks with variable height units but didn't hook up the air pump, or the wiring. To keep the codes off, they may have disconnected the height sensors and wired them to show constant height or some such, and put resistors on the connectors for the shocks. This whole thing sounds like a classic case of hanyaks that think they know everything because it was OK on a 1953 Packard, doing their thing and shining you on. You need another mechanic. If you pick out another, look for certification stickers on the office wall and match the names with the nametags on the people actually present and working on cars. Watch their lot for a couple of weeks for 1990's Cadillacs. If there are none, or if you see one that never moves, look elsewhere. If you see one or two come and go, talk to their face and see if you detect sensitivity and intelligence. Ask about the ride-sensing suspension and the automatic leveling and see if you detect some familiarity with things. Run all the codes and post them here, and keep us posted. Here's how to run the codes: <a href="http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html" target="_blank">http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry2967 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hey JimETC thanks man for your insight on this matter, the guy I took the car to had it for 5 days and all he could tell that the fuses looked good! Hell, I knew that! I believe that you are right, when they tell me some bulls**t! I know that if I take it to the dealership they are going to rape me with those shop prices! But what can I do, like I said $2500 is a lot to spend on a suspension and its not fully operating! It frustrating to say the least! Hey JimETC, let me ask you, with the sagging in the back of the car am I doing any serious damage to car by driving it like it is, although I try to drive like a sane person! Also, with it so low, is it possible for it rub the rear tires if I were to replace factory rims and tires with 20" rims & tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 I agree with what JimETC said. Either your machanic DON'T WANT TO fix it or DON'T KNOW HOW to fix it. You need another mechanic. You atate that you paid them $2,500 dollars to FIX IT and IT STILL AIN'T FIXED. Thats a lot of money paid out and then have the results you are having. I would be considering filing a claim in small claims court.... try to get at least SOME of my money back. Is there anywhere else you can take it and get a diagnosis of EXACTLY what is still wrong with it and what wasn't fixed properly? Another question is.... how much is it going to cost to MAKE IT RIGHT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hey JimETC thanks man for your insight on this matter, the guy I took the car to had it for 5 days and all he could tell that the fuses looked good! Hell, I knew that! I believe that you are right, when they tell me some bulls**t! I know that if I take it to the dealership they are going to rape me with those shop prices! But what can I do, like I said $2500 is a lot to spend on a suspension and its not fully operating! It frustrating to say the least! Hey JimETC, let me ask you, with the sagging in the back of the car am I doing any serious damage to car by driving it like it is, although I try to drive like a sane person! Also, with it so low, is it possible for it rub the rear tires if I were to replace factory rims and tires with 20" rims & tires? See if you can see or feel the rubber air chambers that are on the outside of the rear shocks. If they are completely deflated, you will eventually cause them to fail. With no air in them, they rub on themselves and create heat and friction that will destroy the air chambers. I would be wondering if they actually replaced the rear shock/struts with the correct parts! If the bags were just leaking, you would think that replacing the defective parts would cure the problem. Are you sure that the rear shock/strut bags were leaking or was the air pump not operating? Needless to say, you need this car fixed ASAP. It sounds like it is dangerous to drive it! Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry2967 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hey Britt, No they are not inflated, but the car is drivable, not too much bodyroll! I only concern is the shocks, because of money spend and the aggravation! I agree with you wholeheartedly TexasJim, but at this moment I'm about to kick someones' a** about this! And yes pump was working when problems arose. I will follow you guys suggestions as far finding a good mechanic who knows what he's doing! This guy did work with a previous caddy that I had and he ASE Certified, so Thanks guys, I appreciate all of your insight on this subject!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hey JimETC thanks man for your insight on this matter, the guy I took the car to had it for 5 days and all he could tell that the fuses looked good! Hell, I knew that! I believe that you are right, when they tell me some bulls**t! I know that if I take it to the dealership they are going to rape me with those shop prices! But what can I do, like I said $2500 is a lot to spend on a suspension and its not fully operating! It frustrating to say the least! Hey JimETC, let me ask you, with the sagging in the back of the car am I doing any serious damage to car by driving it like it is, although I try to drive like a sane person! Also, with it so low, is it possible for it rub the rear tires if I were to replace factory rims and tires with 20" rims & tires? I am very confused here, you said "like I said, $2500" This is the first time you said that. DID you pay $2500 to have this repaired and its NOT repaired? Please explain this again. $2500 was enough to replace the rear shocks with OEM shocks and probably the compressor. What is going on? Who did what? Who did you pay that money to? If the rear air ballasts are NOT filling up, and YOU DID pay $2500 the car needs to go back to this 'mechanic' you sought out. Period. Please explain this better what did you pay $2500 for?, checking the FUSES? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangar18valk Posted August 8, 2008 Report Share Posted August 8, 2008 rear shock info: i just troubleshot (and replaced) my rear shocks on a 2002 STS, 50k miles. you need to check the air compressor, which is located above the right-side exhaust resonator. the compressor will cycle on for a couple of seconds, and then vent, about 30 seconds after the key is switched on. i hear it pump when backing up, but it should be easily noticeable if you don't start the car. i can't hear it vent though, but i assume the vent function works because my ride-height is OK. if you can't hear the compressor cycle after turning the key on, there's no sense swapping parts. get the compressor operational. once you have proper compressor operation, ensure the shocks' airbags are inflating. check the connection to the shock body, remove the tires, and feel them with your hands as you cycle the compressor. might want to check the air lines too, to make sure they are not cracked or pinched. the left-side line is routed along the gas tank and frame rails. to check the leveling feature, turn the key off, and put weight (my 16 year old kid worked great) in the trunk and measure the distance between rear tire and fender. then turn the the key on, wait 30 seconds for the compressor to cycle, and tell your kid to watch out for the garage door opener. lol. the car should level out, and then vent down once the kid/weight is removed. in my case, the compressor and airbags were fine, but the shocks were trashed. i bought a set of Arnott's for $329, and they made a huge difference. their website does not include non-Magneride 2002's (F45 vs. F55) but their 98-01 shocks work great on my early F45 2002. feel free to PM me for additional info or if you/anyone have questions hangar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry2967 Posted September 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Hey everyone! OK here is the deal! for some reason my suspension system will not clear speed limited to 90. took it to mechanic who did clear the message only for it to return. for a very brief moment the car will ride like its on air then about 5 to 10 minutes later the message return and suspension goes soft again! I've about had it with this car nothing is a simple fix with this car! Is there anyone out who has experienced this problem, please let me know what course of action to follow! I've already sunk more money in this car than I planned, and I don't want to throw the car away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 I merged your two posts so that we don't start over from scratch on this Clearing the message does NOT fix the problem, it just clears the code until it resets because the problem is still there. Did the mechanic charge you for clearing the code? Pull your codes again and post them all here. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry2967 Posted September 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Hey Bodybyfisher, No, i was charged for that I mentioned to mechanic that i was having problems getting the suspension up and running, so he took a poke at it. So I really dont know what he actually did to get it to work momentarily. Has anyone that you know had or have a similar problem? Any info. on a fix would be considered a godsend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 You must post ALL codes for us to be able to help you Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Our hands are tied if you don't post the trouble codes. In particluar,the "C" codes. Here's how to display the codes: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry2967 Posted September 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 Hey guys (BODY BY FISHER & JIM D)! I'm sorry for taking so long with codes, but here they are; ABS: C1222 History C1252 Current C1253 Current U1255 Current Speed Limited To 90 Service Suspension System No RSS DATA Again guys, sorry for the delay of information! I anticipate your vast wisdom will assist me in correcting my current dilemma! Thanks, Harry2967 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 C1252 and C1253 are both data link related codes. In this case the link is between the EBTCM and CVRSS modules. First thing to do is carefully inspect the wire harness and connector pins at the EBTCM. That module gets a coolant bath if your water pump is dripping a little. Same thing applies to the CVRSS module but it is inside the car - difficult to get to - and not likely to see moisture related problems. Your C1222 history code could also point to wiring or connector problem at the RF wheel speed sensor. There could also be a failure in a module but let's eliminate the wiring before throwing any parts at it that will not fix the problem if it is the wiring! Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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