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Inner Tie Rods


MAC

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I'm going to replace the inner tie rods and need to know which tool I need to remove them without removing the rack. I believe there is an elongated socket tool that will do the job. But before I go looking for one, I want to confirm it. Would anyone happen to know which tool I need?

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Here is a tool set to consider when looking to replace inner tier rods.

Astro Pneumatic Inner Tie Rod Removal Set, Part No. 7864

I bought a set on ebay for about $25. I also bought the tie rods and sure enough the 1 7/16 adapter will do the job.

Nice, a steal for such a heavy duty single use tool. Great toolbox addition

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Here is a tool set to consider when looking to replace inner tier rods.

Astro Pneumatic Inner Tie Rod Removal Set, Part No. 7864

I bought a set on ebay for about $25. I also bought the tie rods and sure enough the 1 7/16 adapter will do the job.

Nice, a steal for such a heavy duty single use tool. Great toolbox addition

This coming weekend I'll replace the rods. Hopefully all will go well. I don't believe the new rods have to be staked, although the originals are. Maybe some thread locker is all I need. Others have done the job and didn't mention anything about staking, which I don't think I can do without removing the rack anyway.

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You would probably have to remove the rack to stake them :lol: Come on do the job right! :lol: A big nut backs up to the joint, no? Maybe the stake was used during the manufacturing process?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Here's an update: I replaced the right (passenger) side inner tie rod. It was not a difficult job, just a bit time consuming mainly because I've never replaced one before. The inner tie rod removal tools I linked to above will do the job. Again, use the 1 7/16 adapter. The "clamp" that secures the protective boot is a bit of a pain to remove. It's the crimp style clamp, which means using a screw driver to pry it up is the best way to go about removing it.

Also, there wasn't any flats on the rack piston for a wrench. I looked carefully, but there was nothing there--I only saw what looked to be flats adjacent to the end of the tie rod but it was such a narrow flat that a regular wrench (as far as thickness) could not be used. So I decided to use locking pliers; however, I used thin cardboard from an exhaust clamp box. I triple its thickness and wrapped it around the rack piston to protect it. I then locked the pliers in such a way that it would keep the rack piston steady as I removed the tie rod.

The threaded end on the rack piston is only about 5/8-inch. The stock rod was staked but it was easy to remove the rod anyway, as the staking was only meant to keep the rod from vibrating loose. I made sure the new rod was lubed and then screwed it onto the rack. I didn't stake the rod, instead I used Threadlocker Blue and torqued it down to specs (74 lb. ft.). I used a nylon tie I bought at The Home Depot--you'll find them in the electrical section. Also, there are stainless steel ties available, which I just might buy to replace the nylon tie. Overall, it's not a difficult job.

The inner rod was indeed worn. In fact, I could actually move it inside the rod housing.

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What were your symptoms again? Play at 3 and 9 o'clock?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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What were your symptoms again? Play at 3 and 9 o'clock?

Yes. There was a lot of play at 3 and 9. It was so bad there was wheel wobble and when making a left turn there was a distinct metallic pop--which was the rod moving inside the housing. Now the wheel is solid with no more play.

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  • 7 months later...
Here's an update: I replaced the right (passenger) side inner tie rod. It was not a difficult job, just a bit time consuming mainly because I've never replaced one before. The inner tie rod removal tools I linked to above will do the job. Again, use the 1 7/16 adapter. The "clamp" that secures the protective boot is a bit of a pain to remove. It's the crimp style clamp, which means using a screw driver to pry it up is the best way to go about removing it.

Also, there wasn't any flats on the rack piston for a wrench. I looked carefully, but there was nothing there--I only saw what looked to be flats adjacent to the end of the tie rod but it was such a narrow flat that a regular wrench (as far as thickness) could not be used. So I decided to use locking pliers; however, I used thin cardboard from an exhaust clamp box. I triple its thickness and wrapped it around the rack piston to protect it. I then locked the pliers in such a way that it would keep the rack piston steady as I removed the tie rod.

The threaded end on the rack piston is only about 5/8-inch. The stock rod was staked but it was easy to remove the rod anyway, as the staking was only meant to keep the rod from vibrating loose. I made sure the new rod was lubed and then screwed it onto the rack. I didn't stake the rod, instead I used Threadlocker Blue and torqued it down to specs (74 lb. ft.). I used a nylon tie I bought at The Home Depot--you'll find them in the electrical section. Also, there are stainless steel ties available, which I just might buy to replace the nylon tie. Overall, it's not a difficult job.

The inner rod was indeed worn. In fact, I could actually move it inside the rod housing.

MAC,

I believe I need to replace the inner tie rods on my STS as it wanders while driving down the road. I jacked up the car and crawled under to inspect and can see movement of the inner tie rod at the rack boot when the tire is rocked at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. I had both front wheels off the ground and noticed the same thing on the other side. The rack was not moving in its mounting bracket so I don't think that is the issue.

According to the service manual, the rack needs to come out but I'd like to replace the inner tie rods with the rack still in the car as R&Ring the rack is a huge PITA - I did that on my old Park Avenue... The shop manual shows two wrenches being used to unscrew the inner tie rod. How does the set you bought work? I won't buy parts from AutoZone but they do have a lot of specialty tools that are loaned at no charge. The only problem is their inner tie rod tools are 1-3/16" and 1-5/16" and reading your posts, a 1-7/16" socket is needed.

I like your idea of using blue threadlocker rather than staking the inner tie rods since staking would most likely require the removal of the rack. Did your car have the thermoplastic boots on the rack? Did you have to remove both clamps on the boot?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Here's an update: I replaced the right (passenger) side inner tie rod. It was not a difficult job, just a bit time consuming mainly because I've never replaced one before. The inner tie rod removal tools I linked to above will do the job. Again, use the 1 7/16 adapter. The "clamp" that secures the protective boot is a bit of a pain to remove. It's the crimp style clamp, which means using a screw driver to pry it up is the best way to go about removing it.

Also, there wasn't any flats on the rack piston for a wrench. I looked carefully, but there was nothing there--I only saw what looked to be flats adjacent to the end of the tie rod but it was such a narrow flat that a regular wrench (as far as thickness) could not be used. So I decided to use locking pliers; however, I used thin cardboard from an exhaust clamp box. I triple its thickness and wrapped it around the rack piston to protect it. I then locked the pliers in such a way that it would keep the rack piston steady as I removed the tie rod.

The threaded end on the rack piston is only about 5/8-inch. The stock rod was staked but it was easy to remove the rod anyway, as the staking was only meant to keep the rod from vibrating loose. I made sure the new rod was lubed and then screwed it onto the rack. I didn't stake the rod, instead I used Threadlocker Blue and torqued it down to specs (74 lb. ft.). I used a nylon tie I bought at The Home Depot--you'll find them in the electrical section. Also, there are stainless steel ties available, which I just might buy to replace the nylon tie. Overall, it's not a difficult job.

The inner rod was indeed worn. In fact, I could actually move it inside the rod housing.

MAC,

I believe I need to replace the inner tie rods on my STS as it wanders while driving down the road. I jacked up the car and crawled under to inspect and can see movement of the inner tie rod at the rack boot when the tire is rocked at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. I had both front wheels off the ground and noticed the same thing on the other side. The rack was not moving in its mounting bracket so I don't think that is the issue.

According to the service manual, the rack needs to come out but I'd like to replace the inner tie rods with the rack still in the car as R&Ring the rack is a huge PITA - I did that on my old Park Avenue... The shop manual shows two wrenches being used to unscrew the inner tie rod. How does the set you bought work? I won't buy parts from AutoZone but they do have a lot of specialty tools that are loaned at no charge. The only problem is their inner tie rod tools are 1-3/16" and 1-5/16" and reading your posts, a 1-7/16" socket is needed.

I like your idea of using blue threadlocker rather than staking the inner tie rods since staking would most likely require the removal of the rack. Did your car have the thermoplastic boots on the rack? Did you have to remove both clamps on the boot?

The tool I bought did a good job. I didn't have to remove the rack. The GM Service Manual likes the rack removed for purposes of staking but it's not necessary. Be aware, as you probably already are, that you will need to remove the stainless steel band around the boot. Home Depot sells them (and I believe those they sell would be long enough?) in the electrical section near the rest of the nylon ties, etc. However, I used a nylon tie but will replace it with stainless steel in the near future. You only need to remove the inner band around the boot, remove it and slide it over the new rod.

Also, if you want to stake the new rod in without a hammer and staking tool, I would suggest trying to use a vice pliers and simply crimp at the edge of the new tie rod. The staking is only for purposes of making it more difficult for the rod to vibrate loose. I'm actually considering the vice pliers option because I would like to follow the recommended procedure as closely as possible. Also, a vice pliers will come in handy with piece of cardboard or heavy paper folded a few times to wrap around the rack to secure it from turning while loosening the inner rod. If you play it right, you can pin the vice pliers against something nearby and then use the tie rod remover tool. I also used tape to mark where the outer tier rod is on the old inner rod to get an idea how many turns would be needed to keep the alignment as close as possible.

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Here's an update: I replaced the right (passenger) side inner tie rod. It was not a difficult job, just a bit time consuming mainly because I've never replaced one before. The inner tie rod removal tools I linked to above will do the job. Again, use the 1 7/16 adapter. The "clamp" that secures the protective boot is a bit of a pain to remove. It's the crimp style clamp, which means using a screw driver to pry it up is the best way to go about removing it.

Also, there wasn't any flats on the rack piston for a wrench. I looked carefully, but there was nothing there--I only saw what looked to be flats adjacent to the end of the tie rod but it was such a narrow flat that a regular wrench (as far as thickness) could not be used. So I decided to use locking pliers; however, I used thin cardboard from an exhaust clamp box. I triple its thickness and wrapped it around the rack piston to protect it. I then locked the pliers in such a way that it would keep the rack piston steady as I removed the tie rod.

The threaded end on the rack piston is only about 5/8-inch. The stock rod was staked but it was easy to remove the rod anyway, as the staking was only meant to keep the rod from vibrating loose. I made sure the new rod was lubed and then screwed it onto the rack. I didn't stake the rod, instead I used Threadlocker Blue and torqued it down to specs (74 lb. ft.). I used a nylon tie I bought at The Home Depot--you'll find them in the electrical section. Also, there are stainless steel ties available, which I just might buy to replace the nylon tie. Overall, it's not a difficult job.

The inner rod was indeed worn. In fact, I could actually move it inside the rod housing.

MAC,

I believe I need to replace the inner tie rods on my STS as it wanders while driving down the road. I jacked up the car and crawled under to inspect and can see movement of the inner tie rod at the rack boot when the tire is rocked at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. I had both front wheels off the ground and noticed the same thing on the other side. The rack was not moving in its mounting bracket so I don't think that is the issue.

According to the service manual, the rack needs to come out but I'd like to replace the inner tie rods with the rack still in the car as R&Ring the rack is a huge PITA - I did that on my old Park Avenue... The shop manual shows two wrenches being used to unscrew the inner tie rod. How does the set you bought work? I won't buy parts from AutoZone but they do have a lot of specialty tools that are loaned at no charge. The only problem is their inner tie rod tools are 1-3/16" and 1-5/16" and reading your posts, a 1-7/16" socket is needed.

I like your idea of using blue threadlocker rather than staking the inner tie rods since staking would most likely require the removal of the rack. Did your car have the thermoplastic boots on the rack? Did you have to remove both clamps on the boot?

The tool I bought did a good job. I didn't have to remove the rack. The GM Service Manual likes the rack removed for purposes of staking but it's not necessary. Be aware, as you probably already are, that you will need to remove the stainless steel band around the boot. Home Depot sells them (and I believe those they sell would be long enough?) in the electrical section near the rest of the nylon ties, etc. However, I used a nylon tie but will replace it with stainless steel in the near future. You only need to remove the inner band around the boot, remove it and slide it over the new rod.

Also, if you want to stake the new rod in without a hammer and staking tool, I would suggest trying to use a vice pliers and simply crimp at the edge of the new tie rod. The staking is only for purposes of making it more difficult for the rod to vibrate loose. I'm actually considering the vice pliers option because I would like to follow the recommended procedure as closely as possible. Also, a vice pliers will come in handy with piece of cardboard or heavy paper folded a few times to wrap around the rack to secure it from turning while loosening the inner rod. If you play it right, you can pin the vice pliers against something nearby and then use the tie rod remover tool. I also used tape to mark where the outer tier rod is on the old inner rod to get an idea how many turns would be needed to keep the alignment as close as possible.

MAC,

You used vice grips to hold the rack piston while unscrewing the tie rod with the special tool correct? The torque spec is 74 ft-lbs so it's on there pretty tight - did you have any issue getting it loose? Is there a wrench flat or hex on the end of the special tool so a torque wrench can be used for reassembly? Also, the factory shop manual shows a flat on the rack piston but it appeared that the flats are too narrow for a wrench. I'm wondering if a cheap open end wrench could be ground down to reduce the thickness enough so it would work?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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MAC,

You used vice grips to hold the rack piston while unscrewing the tie rod with the special tool correct? The torque spec is 74 ft-lbs so it's on there pretty tight - did you have any issue getting it loose? Is there a wrench flat or hex on the end of the special tool so a torque wrench can be used for reassembly? Also, the factory shop manual shows a flat on the rack piston but it appeared that the flats are too narrow for a wrench. I'm wondering if a cheap open end wrench could be ground down to reduce the thickness enough so it would work?

Yes. I used a vice-grip but I made sure there was thin cardboard folded enough to prevent marring of the rack. The rod should come off pretty easily despite the 74 ft-lbs torque. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't have to struggle to brake the rod loose. The stakes will not be a problem either as you can simply unscrew the rod and it will push the stakes out. I found the flats to be too narrow to get a wrench on it, which is why I ended up using a vice-grip. You we need a 1/2-inch ratchet/torque wrench for the tool. The tool itself measures about 15 3/4 long without the socket on it. So there will be plenty of room for the rod to be inserted into the tool. Years ago during the 70s, Shell Service stations use to give wrenches away with a fill-up. They were cheap and flat, about 1/8-inch thick. That's what you would need if you have the same scenario. An El-cheapo flat crescent wrench. In fact, even then, the flats on the rod may be inaccessible. I think your idea of making a wrench by grinding might do the job so long as there's enough metal left that it doesn't snap.

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Yes. I used a vice-grip but I made sure there was thin cardboard folded enough to prevent marring of the rack. The rod should come off pretty easily despite the 74 ft-lbs torque. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't have to struggle to brake the rod loose. The stakes will not be a problem either as you can simply unscrew the rod and it will push the stakes out. I found the flats to be too narrow to get a wrench on it, which is why I ended up using a vice-grip. You we need a 1/2-inch ratchet/torque wrench for the tool. The tool itself measures about 15 3/4 long without the socket on it. So there will be plenty of room for the rod to be inserted into the tool. Years ago during the 70s, Shell Service stations use to give wrenches away with a fill-up. They were cheap and flat, about 1/8-inch thick. That's what you would need if you have the same scenario. An El-cheapo flat crescent wrench. In fact, even then, the flats on the rod may be inaccessible. I think your idea of making a wrench by grinding might do the job so long as there's enough metal left that it doesn't snap.

Thanks for the information. I think I can fabricate a "wrench" using some 1/8" flatstock and beef it up by welding a reinforcement outside the piston area. Or just buy a cheap wrench and grind it down. Is there any reason a 1-7/16" crowfoot wrench couldn't be used instead of the special tool? I think I'll just order the tool set though since a 1-7/16" crowfoot wrench is almost the cost of the kit...

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Yes. I used a vice-grip but I made sure there was thin cardboard folded enough to prevent marring of the rack. The rod should come off pretty easily despite the 74 ft-lbs torque. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't have to struggle to brake the rod loose. The stakes will not be a problem either as you can simply unscrew the rod and it will push the stakes out. I found the flats to be too narrow to get a wrench on it, which is why I ended up using a vice-grip. You we need a 1/2-inch ratchet/torque wrench for the tool. The tool itself measures about 15 3/4 long without the socket on it. So there will be plenty of room for the rod to be inserted into the tool. Years ago during the 70s, Shell Service stations use to give wrenches away with a fill-up. They were cheap and flat, about 1/8-inch thick. That's what you would need if you have the same scenario. An El-cheapo flat crescent wrench. In fact, even then, the flats on the rod may be inaccessible. I think your idea of making a wrench by grinding might do the job so long as there's enough metal left that it doesn't snap.

Thanks for the information. I think I can fabricate a "wrench" using some 1/8" flatstock and beef it up by welding a reinforcement outside the piston area. Or just buy a cheap wrench and grind it down. Is there any reason a 1-7/16" crowfoot wrench couldn't be used instead of the special tool? I think I'll just order the tool set though since a 1-7/16" crowfoot wrench is almost the cost of the kit...

The problem with using anything other than the special tool is that there isn't a lot of room to get anything else to work. I would just buy the tool off of ebay or somewhere else for cheap. Even with the tool you will need to use a vice-grip if you can't get something on the flats to keep the rack stationary. The rack will remain stationary itself but attempting to remove the tie rod without securing it with a wrench on the flats or a vice-grip will risk damaging the rack. You will find that buying the special tool was worth it just to avoid complications and/or aggravation. You know, a 1 or 2 hour job turns into an all day job without the right tools.

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The problem with using anything other than the special tool is that there isn't a lot of room to get anything else to work. I would just buy the tool off of ebay or somewhere else for cheap. Even with the tool you will need to use a vice-grip if you can't get something on the flats to keep the rack stationary. The rack will remain stationary itself but attempting to remove the tie rod without securing it with a wrench on the flats or a vice-grip will risk damaging the rack. You will find that buying the special tool was worth it just to avoid complications and/or aggravation. You know, a 1 or 2 hour job turns into an all day job without the right tools.

Point taken. I am very leary about using vice grips though so that's why I am looking into fabricating a wrench to hold the rack. It will probably be a week or two before I get the tools and parts. Since I will need a front end alignment after the inner tie rod R&R, I am going to replace the strut bearings since one of them is making noise when I turn the wheel. If one side is bad, the other side can't be far behind.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Last night, I started the inner tie rod job. Actually, my mission was to confirm the inner tie rods were bad - they weren't.... I removed the rack boots so I could see the tie rod ends and had my wife rock the tires in the 3-9 o'clock position while I observed the inner tie rod ends. No slop was observed on either side. In fact, the slop in my wheels translated through the rack.

I then lifted the boot covering the intermediate steering shaft to rack and observed a lot of slop while the wheels were rocked in the 3-9 o'clock position. My first thought was "the rack must be bad" but I did some additional investigating because I didn't want to take a $300 gamble. I stuck a long screwdriver into the u-joints in the intermediate shaft to lock them in position. All the slop in the front wheels was gone. I still was not sure I identified the problem so I removed the screwdriver and lowered the car so only one front tire was off the ground. I the tried to rock the tire that was off the ground and it was solid. I then repeated the check with the opposite tire off the ground/grounded and there was no slop. The results pointed to the intermediate steering shaft assembly.

No parts houses stocked or could even order the intermediate shaft assemby - "it's a dealer item" I was told - teriffic... I couldn't wait to see how much the local stealership would want for the part...

The local stealer wanted $215.00 plus tax - less than half the amount I expected. I called cadauto.com and they would only sell me the entire column for $225.00 plus shipping. According to them, the slop in the intermediate shaft was common (even though I never heard of the issue).

I put in a request from gmotors.com - I figure their price will be about $120.00 which isn't too bad.

MAC, don't waste your time with the stainless steel zip ties - I couldn't get them to tighten up enough to retain the boot so I bought some 10" nylon ties. Also, my inner tie rod ends had a plastic housing with NO flats to use the special tool on so it's probably good that I didn't have to replace the inner tie rods...

Once my intermediate shaft comes in and I start the R&R work, I'll start a new thread.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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KHE, Great job with the diagnosis. In fact, based on your situation, I'm also going to check the Intermediate Shaft, which I can purchase from newgmparts.com for $108. I have this popping/squeaking sound when making turns that I have yet to figure out. I'm thinking it could be engine cradle mounts that have deteriorated. Also, when I accelerate there's a popping sound. I also get the impression that it could be something with the rack, however, the actual turning of the steering wheel is smooth. So maybe the popping sound is the Intermediate Shaft?

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KHE, Great job with the diagnosis. In fact, based on your situation, I'm also going to check the Intermediate Shaft, which I can purchase from newgmparts.com for $108. I have this popping/squeaking sound when making turns that I have yet to figure out. I'm thinking it could be engine cradle mounts that have deteriorated. Also, when I accelerate there's a popping sound. I also get the impression that it could be something with the rack, however, the actual turning of the steering wheel is smooth. So maybe the popping sound is the Intermediate Shaft?

Noises when turning are usually related to the CV joints in the axle half shafts. Have you checked the CV joints?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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