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Overheat/No AC/Computer Reset Needed...Help!


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Hello all,

Please bear with me as I am new to the Forum and to owning a Cadillac. I'm not a mechanic but I am good at fixing things as long as clear direction is given. So here we go...

I just purchased a 97' Seville SLS. Right now it's perfect because it can get me from A to B without too much hassle. The main problem is if I start making short legs on a trip, it overheats. The previous owner tells me the fan comes on sometimes but not all the time. He had the cooling sensor replaced which leads to problem #2. When he had that done, the computer when all weird and now needs a reset. I am receiving every type of message (coolant low/oil change needed/fuel low) and none of the instrument panel gauges read correctly (speedometer, tachometer, fuel). The last known issue which probably sits the lowest on the scale is that the A/C does not work. I need some help. Could resetting the computer fix the cooling problem? How much would that cost? Could the cooling issue be a simple fix? I can do simple fixes. Any and all help would be awesome.

Thanks

Ray

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Have the battery checked and also check the cables for corrosion. Low battery voltage will bring all sorts of electrical Gremlins out of hiding.

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Who replaced the battery? - some mounted batteries under the hood with a N* tend to have corrosion on both the terminals, and also the ends of the wires at the crimp. We have seen batteries replaced, without eny cleaning of the terminals. First you should search this site for reading the codes. (pressing the off & warmer buttons simultaniously for 3 seconds) If there is a battery/electrical issue, you'll see codes for it. Be prepared it can be multiple issues - both electrical, and mechanical.

- check the underside of the fuse block for corrosion

- the oil may be the OLM needs to be reset

- fuel can be a faulty gauge

- is the coolant low - maybe there's a leak/air in the system (BTW you should change the coolant if you don't know it's history)

Welcome, and good luck - let us know the codes.

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Who replaced the battery? - some mounted batteries under the hood with a N* tend to have corrosion on both the terminals, and also the ends of the wires at the crimp. We have seen batteries replaced, without eny cleaning of the terminals. First you should search this site for reading the codes. (pressing the off & warmer buttons simultaniously for 3 seconds) If there is a battery/electrical issue, you'll see codes for it. Be prepared it can be multiple issues - both electrical, and mechanical.

- check the underside of the fuse block for corrosion

- the oil may be the OLM needs to be reset

- fuel can be a faulty gauge

- is the coolant low - maybe there's a leak/air in the system (BTW you should change the coolant if you don't know it's history)

Welcome, and good luck - let us know the codes.

Hey, Thanks for the response.

I am getting 4 continuous codes. Change coolant, service, fuel low, and change oil. The oil has been changed very recently. The coolant was changed by me (after the 1st overheat). Fuel has been added to the vehicle. I am including a pic of the terminals. They're both pretty clear of any corrosion. Also checked the underneath of the fuse block. Nothing there. I m sure there would be a problem with 1 or even two but 4 codes at the same time. And none of the displays read correctly. I'm about 15-20 mph under when driving on the speedometer. Tachometer reads no more than 1000 rpms. The fuel gauge stays at about 3/4 full all the time. The only reading I trust is the engine temperature. IT stays under the half tick mark during steady driving. If I start slowing down it starts rising and pretty quick. If I start moving again, it goes back down. I'm know I probably have quite a few issues going. I'm trying to see which is the worst. Now with the codes, pressing the off and the warmer buttons, does the engine have to be on?

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Who replaced the battery? - some mounted batteries under the hood with a N* tend to have corrosion on both the terminals, and also the ends of the wires at the crimp. We have seen batteries replaced, without eny cleaning of the terminals. First you should search this site for reading the codes. (pressing the off & warmer buttons simultaniously for 3 seconds) If there is a battery/electrical issue, you'll see codes for it. Be prepared it can be multiple issues - both electrical, and mechanical.

- check the underside of the fuse block for corrosion

- the oil may be the OLM needs to be reset

- fuel can be a faulty gauge

- is the coolant low - maybe there's a leak/air in the system (BTW you should change the coolant if you don't know it's history)

Welcome, and good luck - let us know the codes.

Hey, Thanks for the response.

I am getting 4 continuous codes. Change coolant, service, fuel low, and change oil. The oil has been changed very recently. The coolant was changed by me (after the 1st overheat). Fuel has been added to the vehicle. I am including a pic of the terminals. They're both pretty clear of any corrosion. Also checked the underneath of the fuse block. Nothing there. I m sure there would be a problem with 1 or even two but 4 codes at the same time. And none of the displays read correctly. I'm about 15-20 mph under when driving on the speedometer. Tachometer reads no more than 1000 rpms. The fuel gauge stays at about 3/4 full all the time. The only reading I trust is the engine temperature. IT stays under the half tick mark during steady driving. If I start slowing down it starts rising and pretty quick. If I start moving again, it goes back down. I'm know I probably have quite a few issues going. I'm trying to see which is the worst. Now with the codes, pressing the off and the warmer buttons, does the engine have to be on?

Sounds like your electric fans aren't switching on.

Did the car act like this when you picked it up?

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Who replaced the battery? - some mounted batteries under the hood with a N* tend to have corrosion on both the terminals, and also the ends of the wires at the crimp. We have seen batteries replaced, without eny cleaning of the terminals. First you should search this site for reading the codes. (pressing the off & warmer buttons simultaniously for 3 seconds) If there is a battery/electrical issue, you'll see codes for it. Be prepared it can be multiple issues - both electrical, and mechanical.

- check the underside of the fuse block for corrosion

- the oil may be the OLM needs to be reset

- fuel can be a faulty gauge

- is the coolant low - maybe there's a leak/air in the system (BTW you should change the coolant if you don't know it's history)

Welcome, and good luck - let us know the codes.

Hey, Thanks for the response.

I am getting 4 continuous codes. Change coolant, service, fuel low, and change oil. The oil has been changed very recently. The coolant was changed by me (after the 1st overheat). Fuel has been added to the vehicle. I am including a pic of the terminals. They're both pretty clear of any corrosion. Also checked the underneath of the fuse block. Nothing there. I m sure there would be a problem with 1 or even two but 4 codes at the same time. And none of the displays read correctly. I'm about 15-20 mph under when driving on the speedometer. Tachometer reads no more than 1000 rpms. The fuel gauge stays at about 3/4 full all the time. The only reading I trust is the engine temperature. IT stays under the half tick mark during steady driving. If I start slowing down it starts rising and pretty quick. If I start moving again, it goes back down. I'm know I probably have quite a few issues going. I'm trying to see which is the worst. Now with the codes, pressing the off and the warmer buttons, does the engine have to be on?

Sounds like your electric fans aren't switching on.

Did the car act like this when you picked it up?

nope. previous owner did let me know that they sometimes come on but was not sure what the problem was. I knew it had some issues so I didn't pay too much for it. Now I'm digging to try and get them fixed. He also told me he put some type of bypass switch so that they would come on immediately when the car was turned on but with the new sensor, that stopped working too.

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