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Strut Mount Kit


woody

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Hello Members,

Another topic about struts. I am looking to replace my OEM with Arnott and I do understand that these will now be passive. I am OK with that as I have read other posts from guys that have these and they seem to be happy with them. I did email Arnott them asking if their struts will disable the onboard ride control as to eliminate the error when starting the car.

I understand I will need to replace the front strut mounts and bearings. I did a search on Rockauto and I see four manufactures, Spicer, KYB, MOOG, and ACDELCO starting at $93.79 for ACDELCO and going in reverse order down to $62.79. Are there really that much difference between them. Any help as always is greatly appreciated.

Woody

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Hello Members,

Another topic about struts. I am looking to replace my OEM with Arnott and I do understand that these will now be passive. I am OK with that as I have read other posts from guys that have these and they seem to be happy with them. I did email Arnott them asking if their struts will disable the onboard ride control as to eliminate the error when starting the car.

I understand I will need to replace the front strut mounts and bearings. I did a search on Rockauto and I see four manufactures, Spicer, KYB, MOOG, and ACDELCO starting at $93.79 for ACDELCO and going in reverse order down to $62.79. Are there really that much difference between them. Any help as always is greatly appreciated.

Woody

the only difference is quality, I would go for no less than the AC Delco or the Moog part, they are well known. That is a lot of work if you end up with tha problem with a cheap mount (poor return to center, alignment problems, looseness, inexpensive bearing). I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for, but that is me, especially since you are doing the job yourself.

One thing, DO NOT attempt to break the spring down yourself UNLESS you have the proper equipemnt and I do no mean those screw type clamps with the hooks. Take them to a machine shop and give them the page out of your manual with the LINE UP index points for the strut, spring and spring seat...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Mike,

Thanks for the info. I would do it myself if I could. My mechanic said he would do all 4 for $150. I thought that was fair.

Woody ;)

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Mike,

Thanks for the info. I would do it myself if I could. My mechanic said he would do all 4 for $150. I thought that was fair.

Woody ;)

VERY fair. Are you going to get an alignment?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Opps guess I should forgot about that :huh:

If your mechanic is careful and scribes the struts location, he MIGHT be able to do the job without an alignment, but he must disconnect the front struts at the knuckle assembly. I personally would recommend a four wheel alignment, it will complete the job, cause your tires to wear nice, and bring your handling into focus.

You might research having your rear alignment set up to improve handling. This is accomplished by adding negative camber where the bottom of the tire/wheel sits outboard slightly when compared to the top. The result is that as you go into a corner the tire digs in better by decreasing tire rollover. At the very least, you want your alignment guy to set the camber as negative as he can go and remain in spec.

See this

<a href="http://www.answers.com/topic/camber-angle?cat=technology" target="_blank">http://www.answers.com/topic/camber-angle?cat=technology</a>

DO RESEARCH NEGATIVE CAMBER before you do this and ask your alignment shop about it. The Caddy is a heavy car and it might benefit from it.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Mike,

All good info. I never thought about the alignment changing the handling.

Thanks

Have fun, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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i got new tires a month ago and the old tires had slightly odd wear due to minor toe issues. i think it could use an alignment and the extra camber sounds like a good idea. i watch lots of car shows and the camber kits they put on the shock towers seems like a good idea. i do like to drive hard and can put up with a little tire wear if it makes the car handle better.

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