baught a new battery and it still goes dead after 3 days!

[steve6]

finally got around to testing the drain, its within that 30 - 50 ma range

I lent the car to my buddy, he drove it for 5 days no issue, three days sitting in my driveway not even enough juice to light the security light

I guess maybe ill try a ENERGIZER next

[BodybyFisher]

Does this car have the battery under the back seat?

[JimD]

The meter in the picture is telling me the current draw is 300ma.

You have a module not going to sleep or something similar going on. I need to read all the previous posts to remind myself what steps you have already taken.

[steve6]

Thanks for making me realize i was being retarded when reading that.

After pulling fuses for the last few hours, pulling fuse 21 got it down to .02

The panel says fuse 21 is AUDIO

Yes BBF its under the back seat, the pic is of the back seat removed with the meter on it.

[BodybyFisher]

Listen, we recently had a member, (husband and wife members), that had starting problems when it got cold. They found that the cable (s) were melted, oxidized which undoubtedly caused the resistance to be high.

The long run cables are subject to greater resistance that creates heat or hot spots in the cable. Over time, this heating cycle, especially if someone holds the key on for a LONG time (more than 10 seconds) when the car won't start, the cable overheats. This heating of the cable can melt it, burn off the laquer finish and allow corrosion to begin the process of raising the cables resistance. At some point the cables increasing resistance begins to negatively impact starting.

Check the resistance of your cables against what normal cables should be, not sure if that spec is in the manual. Mike

someone please post a link to that member that had the problem, they have a GTO also.

[JimD]

The 15A AUDIO fuse basically protects the radio head unit and the CD changer in the console. You might put the fuse back in and let it sit overnight and check the temperature of the CD changer in the morning. A warmer than ambient CD changer would be a clue.

Or you could pull the CD changer and see if the current drain falls off as it should.

[BodybyFisher]

The meter in the picture is telling me the current draw is 300ma.

You have a module not going to sleep or something similar going on. I need to read all the previous posts to remind myself what steps you have already taken.

WOW, sorry I didnt see this when I posted my suggestion to check the cables...

[BodybyFisher]

The meter in the picture is telling me the current draw is 300ma.

You have a module not going to sleep or something similar going on. I need to read all the previous posts to remind myself what steps you have already taken.

Jim, how did you see that because its .30 on the 10 amp scale? Good catch, I didnt even expand the photo to have a look, and assumed that Steve's reported figure was correct. Interesting, your familiarity with electronics is valuable.

[JimD]

Since the picture was available, I did zoom in just to double check the value and the scale. If I was going to be able to add anything useful, I had to know (see) the drain current.

I learned long ago to "measure twice and cut once". In the aviation business when you are putting your signature on the record as to the airworthiness of an aircraft, you always always always check it yourself.

[steve6]

Its not the changer, I disconnected it, I actually installed the changer AFTER I started having these issues, I picked it up at a wrecking yard all you can carry day its not even screwed in.

I am going to let it sit a few days without that fuse in it, we'll see what happens. I guess ill manually switch it or something if it is in fact the radio. I was thinking it might also be the amp, is amp signal tied into that fuse at all (obviously not the power, but the amp has a on/off feed wire)? I'm going to see if I can find a wiring diagram for it, but i'm sure it will be extremely hard to follow.

[JimD]

I would not suspect the amplifier at this point. And the amplifier does have a seperate power fuse, "30A AUDIO AMP".

Your head unit is misbehaving, I believe.

Just for giggles, tell us the RPO code for your radio installation. The RPO code will be on the bottom surface of the spare tire cover and will be in the form of UX8 or UX9; like that.

[steve6]

I would not suspect the amplifier at this point. And the amplifier does have a seperate power fuse, "30A AUDIO AMP".

Your head unit is misbehaving, I believe.

Just for giggles, tell us the RPO code for your radio installation. The RPO code will be on the bottom surface of the spare tire cover and will be in the form of UX8 or UX9; like that.

I have a ux9, uy9, u19, uv7, um5

not sure if you wanted another code or not, they are not exactly listed in a usable format unless you know what they mean.

[JimD]

To address the complete list, we have this:

U19 = SPEEDOMETER: INST, KILO & MILES, KILO ODOMETER

UM5 = RADIO: AM/FM STEREO, DSP, WX, RDS, SEEK/SCAN. AUTO REV MUSIC SEARCH CASS, CD, CLOCK, ETR

UV7 = ANTENNA: WINDSHIELD, RR WINDOW, RADIO

UX9 = SPEAKERS: 8, DUAL F/D MTD, DUAL RR DR, TRIPLE I/P, PKG SHELFAMPLIFIER, BOSE

UW9 = CLUSTER: KILO & MILES, MECHANICAL DISPLAY (No idea what this could mean)

As far as using my (1998) schematic wiring diagrams is concerned, the only difference would be UX9 vs. UX8. And as far as the fuse situation is concerned, there is no difference.

If you plan to locate a salvage head unit, be sure you are buying a UM5 item.

You might be happier/safer/less costly to have someone repair your head unit.

[steve6]

If I find a second hand used one, don't I have to have the dealer fix it to work with my car? I think I remember reading that they are programmed to the vin of the car only? Can that be bypassed? I will probably never fix it, I don't really spend any money on the car, if anything ill probably just go some cheesy aftermarket deck for myself or it will be easier for me to put a 50 cent inline switch in myself.

[JimD]

If I find a second hand used one, don't I have to have the dealer fix it to work with my car? I think I remember reading that they are programmed to the vin of the car only? Can that be bypassed?

Correct. And bypassing requires someone with a Tech II tool which usually means a visit to the dealer.

I will probably never fix it, I don't really spend any money on the car, if anything ill probably just go some cheesy aftermarket deck for myself or it will be easier for me to put a 50 cent inline switch in myself.

If your head unit otherwise operates normally, I would consider using a relay in the power circuit along with a momentary switch to energize and hold the relay only when KEY ON. That kind of setup would protect you from forgetting to throw the switch to OFF when you go to KEY OFF.

[JimD]

....Interesting, your familiarity with electronics is valuable.

Nice of you to make that comment, Mike. And I'm sorry it took me this long for me to publicly respond to you.

[KHE]

If I find a second hand used one, don't I have to have the dealer fix it to work with my car? I think I remember reading that they are programmed to the vin of the car only? Can that be bypassed? I will probably never fix it, I don't really spend any money on the car, if anything ill probably just go some cheesy aftermarket deck for myself or it will be easier for me to put a 50 cent inline switch in myself.

If you find the radio head unit is the culprit, find out where your dealer sends radios for repair - there are Delco Electronics service centers in most major cities - the head unit most likely can be repaired at a reasonable price.

[steve6]

JUST FYI, It did not end up being the radio, I have no idea what it is, I give up, i will leave the rear seat off and disconnect the battery when i'm done with the car and don't plan on using it for a few days.