baught a new battery and it still goes dead after 3 days!

[steve6]

grrrr making me so mad, bought a big DIE HARD battery and the caddy is just killing it in no time...

are my expectations too high to expect it to last a week?

i disconnected the trunk light, hood light, glove box etc, can't see what is draining it?!!? I put a multimeter across it and it is only drawing 30ma,

any other suggestions?

[JimD]

You measured that draw with an ammeter, correct? A draw of 30ma is exactly the same as my '98 after the RAP drops out (10 minutes). And mine has sat for 14 days and started with no problem.

Could be a failed/defective battery right out of the box. Have it load tested.

[BodybyFisher]

grrrr making me so mad, bought a big DIE HARD battery and the caddy is just killing it in no time...

are my expectations too high to expect it to last a week?

i disconnected the trunk light, hood light, glove box etc, can't see what is draining it?!!? I put a multimeter across it and it is only drawing 30ma,

any other suggestions?

Explain how you did this, did you disconnect the negative cable and place an amp meter between the cable and the battery, with the key off?, that is how I would do it, but I am interested how you measured the current draw. Mike

[PAUL T]

Check the visor vanity lights. Radio? Any aftermarket stuff added?

[steve6]

Explain how you did this, did you disconnect the negative cable and place an amp meter between the cable and the battery, with the key off?, that is how I would do it, but I am interested how you measured the current draw. Mike

Yes. Put the meter there, closed the door, let it sit for a few minutes, checked it through the window. I know you have to test amp draw in series....

There is nothing after market in the car.

[BodybyFisher]

Explain how you did this, did you disconnect the negative cable and place an amp meter between the cable and the battery, with the key off?, that is how I would do it, but I am interested how you measured the current draw. Mike

I know you have to test amp draw in series....

Don't get me wrong, I was not questioning you, I was interested in knowing HOW you did it to confirm my thinking

[WarrenJ]

Steve6,

I know how exasperating this can be!

First off, 30ma is just about right. That could kill a battery in under a year.

Now a long time ago in a galaxy one county away I owned a 1980 Caprice that would, at odd monthly intervals, and for years, simply drain itself dumbass DEAD.

I left work one evening and saw my problem from at least 100 feet away. Not kidding! It was so obvious, I laughed! An inch of snow had accumulated on my car, but there was a suspicious circle in the center of my roof that contained no precipitation. The heat from the dome light had melted the snow because the switch in the door jamb was loose causing the light to ignite sporadically.

With just my fingers I tightened the nut on the door jamb switch and never had the problem again.

I'm not suggesting this is your problem, just asking you to think "outside-of-the-box."

Regards,

Warren

[BostonETC97]

Don't completely rule out the new battery either. I've had bad luck with the DieHards in recent years. Even the "Gold" series doesn't seem to last me any more than three years (in all my cars, not just the Eldorado.) They were even refusing to replace it under warranty when my last one had a shorted cell after only 9 months. In the end, after a LOT of arguing, they did replace the battery for free. But the symptoms were just as you described... after a couple days of not driving, the battery would be dead. As the short got worse, the car would be dead within 6 hours of driving it.

I'd like to hope DieHards are still good batteries, and its just my luck that has been off! But I'm convinced the quality has gone down... they used to last me at least six years!

[steve6]

I wish i could blame the battery, but this is the third one ive tried, the others were just 'borrowed' from other cars, and they are 100% fine in them.

Is there any way to disable or change the security settings? Like sensitivity?

Its pretty annoying.

[BodybyFisher]

So the battery is good. And it appears that the 30 ma drain is normal, it may be that you are not driving it enough, see this from SI

Non-usage of the vehicle for extended periods of time

The vehicle's computers, clocks and the like will cause the battery state of charge to drop (For example; 30 days in a parking lot and the vehicle may not start because of a dead battery or a vehicle which is driven only a short distance once a week may end up with a discharged battery to the point where the vehicle may not start). This would be considered abnormal usage of the vehicle and the normally expected result for the vehicle battery, generator and electrical systems.

[BostonETC97]

Is the alternator properly charging?

[JimD]

I wish i could blame the battery, but this is the third one ive tried, the others were just 'borrowed' from other cars, and they are 100% fine in them.

Is there any way to disable or change the security settings? Like sensitivity?....

In your own words "....it is only drawing 30ma". That is about as low as you can expect to see. Is it remotely possible you are reading the ammeter scale incorrectly and the draw is actually 300ma or even 3 amperes?

Earlier, I suggested you have your battery load-tested. So far, you have not reported the results of any load-testing.

[steve6]

Alternator is fine. I will check the draw again, that was months ago I did that.

I drove the car for 4 days straight while I was changing the transmission on my jetta (absolutely no issues with battery), last drove it Sunday. (I commute 90 km's to work, so its not short trips). Battery was dead Tuesday.

I have not had it load tested, I probably never will anyways(remember I tried other batteries), this caddy is gonna destroy the batter anyways with the way it draws, ill be replacing it every 6 months. If the battery wasn't in such a ghetto spot i'd unhook it after use, but gotta take the darn seat off

I live relatively close to a TRAIN , I suspect that maybe the horns blowing that its engaging the security system every time it goes by, like as if you pull up the handle when the car has been sitting idle for a while, the security light comes on etc... dunno, just pisses me off regardless.

[KHE]

I wish i could blame the battery, but this is the third one ive tried, the others were just 'borrowed' from other cars, and they are 100% fine in them.

Is there any way to disable or change the security settings? Like sensitivity?

Its pretty annoying.

There is a reason the battery is being drained - It sounds like you drive it often enough so there has to be a parasitic drain.

[growe3]

Have you read any trouble codes yet? If so please post them, it may help diagnose the problem.

Look the car over carefully at night, are there any glimmers of light from the inside?

If so hunt down the light source.

You say the alternator is working, what is the charging rate:

Five minutes after start-up?

After fifteen minutes driving?

Have you verified that ALL of your battery cable connections are clean and tight?

If your battery is under the rear seat they may be fine, but do not forget those connections under the hood. And the ground connections to the engine.

-George

[BodybyFisher]

You have not checked your current draw for months, I would check it again. Also check to make sure that the retained power circuit is turning off.

[steve6]

You have not checked your current draw for months, I would check it again. Also check to make sure that the retained power circuit is turning off.

what is the retained power circuity?

growe I get about 3294342 codes all the time because of the battery.

Can no one tell me how to change the security settings? like, if it honks, or lights blink, or if it locks the doors when you put the car in D? I just want to look through that stuff.

Thanks

[jking220]

Can no one tell me how to change the security settings? like, if it honks, or lights blink, or if it locks the doors when you put the car in D? I just want to look through that stuff.

Start the car and leave it in park. Scroll through the DIC and you should have an option called "Feature Programming".

Select that and you can scroll through the many options the car has, such as those listed above.

It is very straight forward and easy to use.

Sorry if your car is not the same, I think it is, but thats how it is on my 01 STS.

[KHE]

You have not checked your current draw for months, I would check it again. Also check to make sure that the retained power circuit is turning off.

what is the retained power circuity?

growe I get about 3294342 codes all the time because of the battery.

Can no one tell me how to change the security settings? like, if it honks, or lights blink, or if it locks the doors when you put the car in D? I just want to look through that stuff.

Thanks

You can't change or adjust the security settings. You need to determine the source of the parasitic drain and correct it.

[jking220]

You have not checked your current draw for months, I would check it again. Also check to make sure that the retained power circuit is turning off.

what is the retained power circuity?

growe I get about 3294342 codes all the time because of the battery.

Can no one tell me how to change the security settings? like, if it honks, or lights blink, or if it locks the doors when you put the car in D? I just want to look through that stuff.

Thanks

You can't change or adjust the security settings. You need to determine the source of the parasitic drain and correct it.

I agree this is not the source of the problem, and I do not consider these things "security settings", but you can adjust the settings he describes above, like the horn honking when locking the doors and the door locks in drive. I dont think you can make it not flash the lights.

I am not disagreeing with your statement Kevin, there must be a parasitic drain on the battery or a bad cell.

[jasper60103]

I had an 85 Olds Calais and was left stranded a few times over a dead battery issue.

In my case it turns out the alternator was the problem.

Of course, I had to replace the battery and the alternator couple times before realizing this.

The auto super stores generally sell junk when it comes to rebulit parts.

The part that really pissed me off was they kept telling me it tested good!

Fortunately, my father-in-law bailed me out of this nighmare

and found a guy that rebulids alternators and does quality work.

I got a rebulit alternator from him and drove the car several more years

until I sold it without any problems.

Hope you work out your issue. I feel your pain.

[Larry]

Don't use a meter, use a 12 volt light, like an old tail light bulb. Disconnect the ground side of battery, and put light between the negative bat terminal and negative battery lead. If you have the light on , you have a drain. Before you do this make sure all appliances are off, if anyting is on the light will shine. The diode in the alternator is probably bad. When the diode goes it allows current to flow in both directions,and drains the bat when the engines off, good luck ps . your battery should be charging at about or between 12.5 and 14.5 volts and fluctuating. If your battery charge indicator is not going up or down the battery is not charging.

[JimD]

Don't use a meter, use a 12 volt light, like an old tail light bulb....

The original poster is asking about a 1999 Seville. Normal - acceptable long term battery current drain for that year-model is in the range of 35 ma to 50 ma. Long term meaning beyond 10 minutes after the last door open-close activity.

I would like to know how you would measure, display, and calibrate that normal - acceptable value of 35 ma to 50 ma value with a light bulb?

Are you using a photographic exposure - light meter? How would you know if the quiescent battery current drain was 10X, or 100X the normal - acceptable value?

[BodybyFisher]

You have not checked your current draw for months, I would check it again. Also check to make sure that the retained power circuit is turning off.

what is the retained power circuity?

growe I get about 3294342 codes all the time because of the battery.

Can no one tell me how to change the security settings? like, if it honks, or lights blink, or if it locks the doors when you put the car in D? I just want to look through that stuff.

Thanks

Good point, i didnt mean the retained power circuit, that turns off when you open the door. What I meant was that some cars, the PCM stays awake for a few minutes after the key is turned off, then goes to sleep. Ford for instance has this feature, and if it does not turn off, the draw is higher. I am not sure if Cadillac has the same issue.

[blue_eldo]

I heard that diehards, as of about 5 years ago, are now junk. They changed vendors and went to a low bidder, Exide I think.

I have a 95 Buick P.A. that on occasion the twilight sentinal will mysteriously drain the battery, with out the lights going on. I found that putting the twilight sentinal switch on the minumum postion provided a cure for this. Try it.