Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

Featured Programming lost from DIC menu


lindqu44

Recommended Posts

When scrolling the DIC on my 99 sts all displays show with exception of the Featurd Programming. At the same time this feature was lost, the brake was not needed to shift out of park. Also the auto door lock featured is unabled. Need some help please. Len

Link to comment
Share on other sites


When scrolling the DIC on my 99 sts all displays show with exception of the Featurd Programming. At the same time this feature was lost, the brake was not needed to shift out of park. Also the auto door lock featured is unabled. Need some help please. Len

Sounds like you may have a problem with the RIM (Rear Intergration Module). All the problems you listed are controled by that module. But you need to check your trouble codes first. If you dont know how, there is a section at the top of the page on "How TO" download or print that and the trouble code list for the '99. Then check your codes and report back. I just went through a similar problem on my '99 sls and the RIM was bad, but check codes first. There are other things which will cause computer/electrical problems to appear such as, bad grounds, dirty or bad connectors, corroded battery connections ect. Dont be supprised if you get a bunch of codes, a problem with one module can cause other modules to report malfunctions.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Len

Have you been able to get your "Trouble Codes" yet?

Dave

I went through the "how to" and yes was able to bring up the codes but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I got the systems brought up starting with ABS through RSS. but did not notice any DTC's. As a matter of fact my 5plus year old battery needed a jump after playing around with the ignition on. Could it be a power problem? Also lets just say it is the RIM module is that a big deal to replace, or can it be reprogrammed at the dealership. However I am a novice and although I figured out how to display the systems I'll need more coaching as to where to go next. Thanks Dave for your help. Len

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Len

Have you been able to get your "Trouble Codes" yet?

Dave

I went through the "how to" and yes was able to bring up the codes but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I got the systems brought up starting with ABS through RSS. but did not notice any DTC's. As a matter of fact my 5plus year old battery needed a jump after playing around with the ignition on. Could it be a power problem? Also lets just say it is the RIM module is that a big deal to replace, or can it be reprogrammed at the dealership. However I am a novice and although I figured out how to display the systems I'll need more coaching as to where to go next. Thanks Dave for your help. Len

Len, first of all, I just noticed that you are a new member, and a SUPPORTER at that!!!!! So let me welcome you to the board. People on here will do their best to help you with any of your problems and questions. They are a great bunch of people.

If your not used to the Cadillac on board diagnostic system (OBD II), if can be quite confusing at first. But if I can sort of fuddle my way through it, anybody can. Dont be intimated by it. It can give you a lot of valuable information about how your car is operating and problems it may have. As far as I know, you cant screw up anything using the (OBD II), except maybe running the battery down.

To answer your questions:

1. Yes it could be a power problem.

2. The RIM module is no big deal to replace.

3. The RIM module, cannot be reprogrammed, only replaced.

4. You can replace the RIM module without having a dealer reprogram the new on.

5. A replacment RIM can cost from $25.00 (at a junkyard) to $250.00 (at a dealer) plus a scan charge, plus labor for replacing ect. So let's not replace it just yet.

The problem you are describing about shifting out of park without pressing the brake, can be caused from other things such as blown fuse or bad relay, in the Park/Lock solonid cable circut or a cable that is broke or disconnected. A .25 cent fuse is a lot cheaper than even a $25.00 RIM and easier to fix.

1. Can you shift out of PARK with the key removed?

2. Did anyone work on your car recently before this problem appeared?

Your problem with the "Feature Programming" being gone from the DIC is another story. So lets start at the beginning before you go through the work and cost of replacing parts that dont need to be replaced.

You said you checked the codes and didnt find any. That may be, but if you have never checked them before and/or cleared them, I would think that with a '99 you would have had at least a couple of codes even if they were just history codes. So, lets start again with checking the DTC's and go from there. First think of the three buttons as "INFO = SELECT", "RESET = NO", and "ON/OFF = YES".

1. Start the car (to avoid running the battery down)

2. Press the INFO + ON/OFF button. All lights on the dash and radio should come on for a few seconds.

3. After the lights go out, You should see in the DIC "ALL?"

4. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. You should see "ALL CODES?"

5. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. Each system should start scrolling in the DIC.

6. If you have no ABS codes, you should see: "NO ABS CODES" in the DIC.

7. Each module will be checked, if there is a code, you will see something like "RIM U1066 HISTORY".

8. You can get a message of something like "NO RIM DATA" this means that the particular module is not communicating with the diagnostic system.

9. You can get the same code(s) under one or more modules, such as "DIM U1066 HISTORY".

10. If you have code(s), write them down and the module its in. This may be hard if you have many codes.

11. If you have a lot of codes and have trouble writing them down, when the check is over, you will see the message "CLEAR ALL CODES?"

12. Press the "RESET = NO" button. This will start the diagnostic test again. Repeat until you have all codes.

13. When you've got all the codes, dont clear them, just turn the key off.

If you have trouble understanding the above proceedure let me know, and I'll try to explain it better.

If you have codes post them here, and we'll try to see whats going on. If you still have no codes, we'll

go from there also.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Len

Have you been able to get your "Trouble Codes" yet?

Dave

I went through the "how to" and yes was able to bring up the codes but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I got the systems brought up starting with ABS through RSS. but did not notice any DTC's. As a matter of fact my 5plus year old battery needed a jump after playing around with the ignition on. Could it be a power problem? Also lets just say it is the RIM module is that a big deal to replace, or can it be reprogrammed at the dealership. However I am a novice and although I figured out how to display the systems I'll need more coaching as to where to go next. Thanks Dave for your help. Len

Len, first of all, I just noticed that you are a new member, and a SUPPORTER at that!!!!! So let me welcome you to the board. People on here will do their best to help you with any of your problems and questions. They are a great bunch of people.

If your not used to the Cadillac on board diagnostic system (OBD II), if can be quite confusing at first. But if I can sort of fuddle my way through it, anybody can. Dont be intimated by it. It can give you a lot of valuable information about how your car is operating and problems it may have. As far as I know, you cant screw up anything using the (OBD II), except maybe running the battery down.

To answer your questions:

1. Yes it could be a power problem.

2. The RIM module is no big deal to replace.

3. The RIM module, cannot be reprogrammed, only replaced.

4. You can replace the RIM module without having a dealer reprogram the new on.

5. A replacment RIM can cost from $25.00 (at a junkyard) to $250.00 (at a dealer) plus a scan charge, plus labor for replacing ect. So let's not replace it just yet.

The problem you are describing about shifting out of park without pressing the brake, can be caused from other things such as blown fuse or bad relay, in the Park/Lock solonid cable circut or a cable that is broke or disconnected. A .25 cent fuse is a lot cheaper than even a $25.00 RIM and easier to fix.

1. Can you shift out of PARK with the key removed?

2. Did anyone work on your car recently before this problem appeared?

Your problem with the "Feature Programming" being gone from the DIC is another story. So lets start at the beginning before you go through the work and cost of replacing parts that dont need to be replaced.

You said you checked the codes and didnt find any. That may be, but if you have never checked them before and/or cleared them, I would think that with a '99 you would have had at least a couple of codes even if they were just history codes. So, lets start again with checking the DTC's and go from there. First think of the three buttons as "INFO = SELECT", "RESET = NO", and "ON/OFF = YES".

1. Start the car (to avoid running the battery down)

2. Press the INFO + ON/OFF button. All lights on the dash and radio should come on for a few seconds.

3. After the lights go out, You should see in the DIC "ALL?"

4. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. You should see "ALL CODES?"

5. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. Each system should start scrolling in the DIC.

6. If you have no ABS codes, you should see: "NO ABS CODES" in the DIC.

7. Each module will be checked, if there is a code, you will see something like "RIM U1066 HISTORY".

8. You can get a message of something like "NO RIM DATA" this means that the particular module is not communicating with the diagnostic system.

9. You can get the same code(s) under one or more modules, such as "DIM U1066 HISTORY".

10. If you have code(s), write them down and the module its in. This may be hard if you have many codes.

11. If you have a lot of codes and have trouble writing them down, when the check is over, you will see the message "CLEAR ALL CODES?"

12. Press the "RESET = NO" button. This will start the diagnostic test again. Repeat until you have all codes.

13. When you've got all the codes, dont clear them, just turn the key off.

If you have trouble understanding the above proceedure let me know, and I'll try to explain it better.

If you have codes post them here, and we'll try to see whats going on. If you still have no codes, we'll

go from there also.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Len

Have you been able to get your "Trouble Codes" yet?

Dave

I went through the "how to" and yes was able to bring up the codes but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I got the systems brought up starting with ABS through RSS. but did not notice any DTC's. As a matter of fact my 5plus year old battery needed a jump after playing around with the ignition on. Could it be a power problem? Also lets just say it is the RIM module is that a big deal to replace, or can it be reprogrammed at the dealership. However I am a novice and although I figured out how to display the systems I'll need more coaching as to where to go next. Thanks Dave for your help. Len

Len, first of all, I just noticed that you are a new member, and a SUPPORTER at that!!!!! So let me welcome you to the board. People on here will do their best to help you with any of your problems and questions. They are a great bunch of people.

If your not used to the Cadillac on board diagnostic system (OBD II), if can be quite confusing at first. But if I can sort of fuddle my way through it, anybody can. Dont be intimated by it. It can give you a lot of valuable information about how your car is operating and problems it may have. As far as I know, you cant screw up anything using the (OBD II), except maybe running the battery down.

To answer your questions:

1. Yes it could be a power problem.

2. The RIM module is no big deal to replace.

3. The RIM module, cannot be reprogrammed, only replaced.

4. You can replace the RIM module without having a dealer reprogram the new on.

5. A replacment RIM can cost from $25.00 (at a junkyard) to $250.00 (at a dealer) plus a scan charge, plus labor for replacing ect. So let's not replace it just yet.

The problem you are describing about shifting out of park without pressing the brake, can be caused from other things such as blown fuse or bad relay, in the Park/Lock solonid cable circut or a cable that is broke or disconnected. A .25 cent fuse is a lot cheaper than even a $25.00 RIM and easier to fix.

1. Can you shift out of PARK with the key removed?

2. Did anyone work on your car recently before this problem appeared?

Your problem with the "Feature Programming" being gone from the DIC is another story. So lets start at the beginning before you go through the work and cost of replacing parts that dont need to be replaced.

You said you checked the codes and didnt find any. That may be, but if you have never checked them before and/or cleared them, I would think that with a '99 you would have had at least a couple of codes even if they were just history codes. So, lets start again with checking the DTC's and go from there. First think of the three buttons as "INFO = SELECT", "RESET = NO", and "ON/OFF = YES".

1. Start the car (to avoid running the battery down)

2. Press the INFO + ON/OFF button. All lights on the dash and radio should come on for a few seconds.

3. After the lights go out, You should see in the DIC "ALL?"

4. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. You should see "ALL CODES?"

5. Press the "ON/OFF = YES" button. Each system should start scrolling in the DIC.

6. If you have no ABS codes, you should see: "NO ABS CODES" in the DIC.

7. Each module will be checked, if there is a code, you will see something like "RIM U1066 HISTORY".

8. You can get a message of something like "NO RIM DATA" this means that the particular module is not communicating with the diagnostic system.

9. You can get the same code(s) under one or more modules, such as "DIM U1066 HISTORY".

10. If you have code(s), write them down and the module its in. This may be hard if you have many codes.

11. If you have a lot of codes and have trouble writing them down, when the check is over, you will see the message "CLEAR ALL CODES?"

12. Press the "RESET = NO" button. This will start the diagnostic test again. Repeat until you have all codes.

13. When you've got all the codes, dont clear them, just turn the key off.

If you have trouble understanding the above proceedure let me know, and I'll try to explain it better.

If you have codes post them here, and we'll try to see whats going on. If you still have no codes, we'll

go from there also.

Dave

No I cannot shift out of park with the key out. Oil changes has been the only service and they reset the oil milege.

Did the codes and I think I screwed up. They listed No ABS,No AMP No DDM, DIM B1983 His, IPC 1983 His, IPM B1652 His, IRC B1760 His, PCM P1520 Current, No RFA, No RIM, No SDM, No VTD, No MSM, No ttm, No RSS. I ran them again and I inadvertantly cleared them all. I now at your mercy, Thanks again Len

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No I cannot shift out of park with the key out. Oil changes has been the only service and they reset the oil milege.

Did the codes and I think I screwed up. They listed No ABS,No AMP No DDM, DIM B1983 His, IPC 1983 His, IPM B1652 His, IRC B1760 His, PCM P1520 Current, No RFA, No RIM, No SDM, No VTD, No MSM, No ttm, No RSS. I ran them again and I inadvertantly cleared them all. I now at your mercy, Thanks again Len

Ok Len,

Give me a little time to check on these codes. Dont worry about having cleared them, if you got problems, they will be back.

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Len,

The codes you listed are:

1. DIM -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW

2. IPC -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW

3. IPM - B1652 H - LOSS OF KEEP ALIVE MEMORY (KAM)

4. IRC - B1760 H - CD CHANGER NOT RESPONDING

5. PCM - P1520 C - TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH CIRCUIT ( UH HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM)

The first four, are probabaly related to draining the battery down while you were checking the codes. Not a certainty by all means, but most likely.

Number 5. Congratulations you have probably proved that my guess about the RIM being bad was all wrong. In brief from what I am reading, is that the computer cant tell what gear your car is in. The RIM has to know when it is in park in order to power the Park/Lock circuit. This is also probably why your feature programming has disappeared from the DIC.

Well, while I do some more reading, would you do me a favor? Clear the codes again. Drive to the store and pick up a 6- nah a couple of cases of beer, Bud is fine. when you get back home, check the codes again. Also just for the heck of it check the transmission fluid.

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Len,

The codes you listed are:

1. DIM -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW

2. IPC -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW

3. IPM - B1652 H - LOSS OF KEEP ALIVE MEMORY (KAM)

4. IRC - B1760 H - CD CHANGER NOT RESPONDING

5. PCM - P1520 C - TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH CIRCUIT ( UH HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM)

The first four, are probabaly related to draining the battery down while you were checking the codes. Not a certainty by all means, but most likely.

Number 5. Congratulations you have probably proved that my guess about the RIM being bad was all wrong. In brief from what I am reading, is that the computer cant tell what gear your car is in. The RIM has to know when it is in park in order to power the Park/Lock circuit. This is also probably why your feature programming has disappeared from the DIC.

Well, while I do some more reading, would you do me a favor? Clear the codes again. Drive to the store and pick up a 6- nah a couple of cases of beer, Bud is fine. when you get back home, check the codes again. Also just for the heck of it check the transmission fluid.

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Len,

The codes you listed are:

1. DIM -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW

2. IPC -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW

3. IPM - B1652 H - LOSS OF KEEP ALIVE MEMORY (KAM)

4. IRC - B1760 H - CD CHANGER NOT RESPONDING

5. PCM - P1520 C - TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH CIRCUIT ( UH HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM)

The first four, are probabaly related to draining the battery down while you were checking the codes. Not a certainty by all means, but most likely.

Number 5. Congratulations you have probably proved that my guess about the RIM being bad was all wrong. In brief from what I am reading, is that the computer cant tell what gear your car is in. The RIM has to know when it is in park in order to power the Park/Lock circuit. This is also probably why your feature programming has disappeared from the DIC.

Well, while I do some more reading, would you do me a favor? Clear the codes again. Drive to the store and pick up a 6- nah a couple of cases of beer, Bud is fine. when you get back home, check the codes again. Also just for the heck of it check the transmission fluid.

Thanks

Dave

Got the Bud- good transmission level and no codes except for PCM 1520

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Len,

The codes you listed are:

1. DIM -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW

2. IPC -B1983 H - DEVICE POWER 1 CIRCUIT LOW

3. IPM - B1652 H - LOSS OF KEEP ALIVE MEMORY (KAM)

4. IRC - B1760 H - CD CHANGER NOT RESPONDING

5. PCM - P1520 C - TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH CIRCUIT ( UH HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM)

The first four, are probabaly related to draining the battery down while you were checking the codes. Not a certainty by all means, but most likely.

Number 5. Congratulations you have probably proved that my guess about the RIM being bad was all wrong. In brief from what I am reading, is that the computer cant tell what gear your car is in. The RIM has to know when it is in park in order to power the Park/Lock circuit. This is also probably why your feature programming has disappeared from the DIC.

Well, while I do some more reading, would you do me a favor? Clear the codes again. Drive to the store and pick up a 6- nah a couple of cases of beer, Bud is fine. when you get back home, check the codes again. Also just for the heck of it check the transmission fluid.

Thanks

Dave

Got the Bud- good transmission level and no codes except for PCM 1520

Forgot to tell you that when you shut off ignition the door lock solenoid activates although since this action they don't auto lock when you put in gear. Does that help?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the Bud- good transmission level and no codes except for PCM 1520

Forgot to tell you that when you shut off ignition the door lock solenoid activates although since this action they don't auto lock when you put in gear. Does that help?

Well, the Bud does. Still reading. Pop a top for me ok?

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe the car must be in Park to access feature programming. Sounds like the car doesn't know it's in park, so it doesn't let you access this feature. Sounds like you identified the root cause of all your issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe the car must be in Park to access feature programming. Sounds like the car doesn't know it's in park, so it doesn't let you access this feature. Sounds like you identified the root cause of all your issues.

I did? But now what? What's the cure Doc?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok Len,

I think after reading for a while, that you should check the connectors on the "Powertrain Control Module" (PCM) first, and then the connectors at the "Park Neutral Position" (PNP) switch. Hopefully one of these may clear up your problem. The PCM is located inside of the "air filter" housing. There is a section in your owner's manual that shows you how to change the air filter. When you have the housing unbuckled, (remove these buckles or they will fall off) you can lift up the top front of the housing to access the PCM. There are two connectors on the PCM each held on by a small bolt, (7.5mm I think). The ignition must be in the lock position for at least 30 seconds before you remove the connectors. I personally would lock it, remove the key and disconnect the Negative battery cable. The battery is located under the rear seat. You will need a 13mm socket to unbolt the Negative cable from the chassis. If you don't know how to get to the battery, either let me know, or take it to AutoZone or Advanced Auto, if there is one where you live, and ask them to check your battery. After they check it, tell them not to snap the seat back in place. This will also give you an opportunity to inspect and clean your Battery terminals. If you don't understand how to get into the air filter box, let me know, or ask one of the people at Autozone or Advanced. If you dont have a Torx bit to remove the screw that hold the air duct resonator (the U shaped thing) to the air filter box, you can pick up one while your there also some "electrical contact cleaner". When you get to the PCM, unbolt one connector at a time, remove the connector, inspect for corrosion, damaged wires, ect. Spray the connector and PCM with "Electrical Contact Cleaner". Put the connector back on and remove several times to remove any dirt or corrosion. Then bolt back down and then do the other connector. Put the Air Filter box back together, reconnect the battery ground, start the car and check if you still have the problem. If you do, then we'll move on to the PNP switch. It is located under the throttle body, and you will have to remove the the air duct to the throttle and air filter to get to the two electrical connectors on it. If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask. These two proceedures are the easiest things I could think of you can try before moving on to "Other Cures". Hopefully one or the other will fix the problem. I would have posted some pictures, but couldn't find any that would have made the process any easier to understand. I dont know your level of experience, and this may all be simple stuff to you, so please dont be offended.

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok Len,

I think after reading for a while, that you should check the connectors on the "Powertrain Control Module" (PCM) first, and then the connectors at the "Park Neutral Position" (PNP) switch. Hopefully one of these may clear up your problem. The PCM is located inside of the "air filter" housing. There is a section in your owner's manual that shows you how to change the air filter. When you have the housing unbuckled, (remove these buckles or they will fall off) you can lift up the top front of the housing to access the PCM. There are two connectors on the PCM each held on by a small bolt, (7.5mm I think). The ignition must be in the lock position for at least 30 seconds before you remove the connectors. I personally would lock it, remove the key and disconnect the Negative battery cable. The battery is located under the rear seat. You will need a 13mm socket to unbolt the Negative cable from the chassis. If you don't know how to get to the battery, either let me know, or take it to AutoZone or Advanced Auto, if there is one where you live, and ask them to check your battery. After they check it, tell them not to snap the seat back in place. This will also give you an opportunity to inspect and clean your Battery terminals. If you don't understand how to get into the air filter box, let me know, or ask one of the people at Autozone or Advanced. If you dont have a Torx bit to remove the screw that hold the air duct resonator (the U shaped thing) to the air filter box, you can pick up one while your there also some "electrical contact cleaner". When you get to the PCM, unbolt one connector at a time, remove the connector, inspect for corrosion, damaged wires, ect. Spray the connector and PCM with "Electrical Contact Cleaner". Put the connector back on and remove several times to remove any dirt or corrosion. Then bolt back down and then do the other connector. Put the Air Filter box back together, reconnect the battery ground, start the car and check if you still have the problem. If you do, then we'll move on to the PNP switch. It is located under the throttle body, and you will have to remove the the air duct to the throttle and air filter to get to the two electrical connectors on it. If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask. These two proceedures are the easiest things I could think of you can try before moving on to "Other Cures". Hopefully one or the other will fix the problem. I would have posted some pictures, but couldn't find any that would have made the process any easier to understand. I dont know your level of experience, and this may all be simple stuff to you, so please dont be offended.

Thanks

Dave

[/size]It's fixed|Here's the story and I hope it helps someone that surfs this site. I have a great Caddy dealership that I trust a lot. My Caddy needed a new engine at 58 thou years ago and although out of warranty they replaced it for me at no charge. At any rate I brought the car up there yesterday and they took on this as if it was a challenge to their manhood. I explained up front that I was not going to spend a lot of dough on this project as the car wasn't worth it, but if they thought they had a shot at fixing it I would pay for a limited amount of shop time. Well I know it took alot longer for them than they originally thought, but they traced it to a broken wire from the transmission range switch. The fix was to run a separate wire for the ground circuit. They also mentioned that they found a corroded ground pack under air box. That made sense to me. With that wire being broke, the car never new it was in park so the brake did not have to be applied to move into another gear and also the locks now work. They had about seven hours in this project and charged me for three ($345.00) and gave me a car for the night. I'm very happy. This is Minnesota where we get salted every winter, plus I have heated parking at my work which just cycles the electolysis that much more, so corrosion should be expected. At any rate I'm happy and I would like to thank you Dave for your concern and effort, I know the Caddy dealership will log on to your site. These guys are open minded and want to solve problems for their customers and they want us to buy more Caddys which I will someday. Thanks again
Link to comment
Share on other sites

[/size]It's fixed|

Great Len,

Sounds like you have a great dealer there, if they replaced your engine at 58k for no charge out of warranty, and gave you a loaner while they fixed this problem, you probably owed them the $345.00 anyway. The transmission range switch was on the "Check This" punch list, but a little further down. Glad you got'er going again.

Also thanks for posting the fix to the problem!!! So many people will start a thread about a problem, and 27 replys later, they disappear without ever saying they found the fix, had it fixed, or just gave up. I've read through many posts regarding problems I also had, only to come to a dead end.

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...