kjelie8706 Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 OK. SO ON MY 92 STS, MY REFRIGERANT PRESSURE IS REALLY LOW. I'M GUESSING BECAUSE OF A LEAK, BUT HOW DO I SEARCH FOR AND FIX THIS LEAK? OR DO I HAVE TO REPLACE SOMETHING, WHAT ARE THE POSSIBLE CULPRITS AND SOLUTIONS. PLEASE. I NEED A/C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Don't use sealant whatever you do. You can add dye into your system and with the proper equipment (ultraviolet black light?) see where the leak is coming from. How fast is it leaking, if you need to recharge it every couple of years, it might not be worth the expense. It can leak at so many places, its hard to pin point, you need to add dye and diagnose it. The evaporator can leak, look at the condensate that comes out for dye. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Don't use sealant whatever you do. You can add dye into your system and with the proper equipment (ultraviolet black light?) see where the leak is coming from. How fast is it leaking, if you need to recharge it every couple of years, it might not be worth the expense. It can leak at so many places, its hard to pin point, you need to add dye and diagnose it. The evaporator can leak, look at the condensate that comes out for dye. OK SO HOW WOULD I INTRODUCE DYE INTO THE SYSTEM, WOULD IT BE JUST LIKE ADDING REFRIGERANT INTO THE SYSTEM THRU THE LOW PRESSURE PORT. AND WHY SHOULDNT I USE SEALANT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 I always check a system with an electronic leak detector first. If I can't find the leak, I then inject the system with UV dye. Look at the a/c compressor on your car - is the clutch face all greasy/oily, if so, the shaft seal is leaking. Replacing a shaft seal is a fairly straightforward job but the trick is finding a shop at will do the repair instead of wanting to replace the compressor. It requires special tools to change a shaft seal though. If the clutch face is clean, examine the body of the compressor - if the case is oily, then the case seals are leaking. This is one case where I would replace the compressor. Don't buy a chain store remanufactured compressor - they are all junk... By an ACDelco unit if replacement is necessary. Sometimes, the leak is so small, it takes years to leak down enough to set the low refrigerant message. Proper diagnosis is the key. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Yes it is added through the low pressure port. Sealant will gum up the compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 Don't use sealant whatever you do. You can add dye into your system and with the proper equipment (ultraviolet black light?) see where the leak is coming from. How fast is it leaking, if you need to recharge it every couple of years, it might not be worth the expense. It can leak at so many places, its hard to pin point, you need to add dye and diagnose it. The evaporator can leak, look at the condensate that comes out for dye. OK SO HOW WOULD I INTRODUCE DYE INTO THE SYSTEM, WOULD IT BE JUST LIKE ADDING REFRIGERANT INTO THE SYSTEM THRU THE LOW PRESSURE PORT. AND WHY SHOULDNT I USE SEALANT. Yes, you can buy the small cans with dye in it, OR, you can have it charged and have the AC shop put dye in. We have always been told NOT to put sealant in, it causes more problems. All of the sensors need to move, the sealant could gum them up. KHE our AC guy will add more. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 okay, where else can i look for a possible leak, i'm a DIY kinda person and um new to the whole car maintenance thing( i just bought my first paid off car), so i wanna know everything i should be looking for. also if i find the leak does that mean that the part has to be replaced( if it's not the seal). and will this be a important step to getting my a/c working properly. because i have no heated or cooled air that blows out of the vents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 IF a leak can be found by a visual inspection it will have an oily residue. Most common leak point is the compressor shaft seal (some oil seepage there is normal. It should not be real wet). Other than that, check all the line connections. As BBF said though, if it has not been serviced in many years it just might need a top off. Adding a pound in 5-10 years is not uncommon. BTW, since it is a '92, it will be R12 unless it has been converted. In that case, you cannot buy it over the counter any longer so DIY is out of the question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 okay, but question, what do you mean by "Adding a pound in 5-10 years is not uncommon." and um pretty sure that it has been converted. it's has a low pressure port not on a line but on the accumulator. it's the only port that matched the r-13 refrigerant gauge cord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 I always check a system with an electronic leak detector first. If I can't find the leak, I then inject the system with UV dye. Look at the a/c compressor on your car - is the clutch face all greasy/oily, if so, the shaft seal is leaking. Replacing a shaft seal is a fairly straightforward job but the trick is finding a shop at will do the repair instead of wanting to replace the compressor. It requires special tools to change a shaft seal though. If the clutch face is clean, examine the body of the compressor - if the case is oily, then the case seals are leaking. This is one case where I would replace the compressor. Don't buy a chain store remanufactured compressor - they are all junk... By an ACDelco unit if replacement is necessary. Sometimes, the leak is so small, it takes years to leak down enough to set the low refrigerant message. Proper diagnosis is the key. That's scary Kevin, I said, KHE will ad more in my post #6, at the same time you POSTED!.... Hows that for being in tune.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 I always check a system with an electronic leak detector first. If I can't find the leak, I then inject the system with UV dye. Look at the a/c compressor on your car - is the clutch face all greasy/oily, if so, the shaft seal is leaking. Replacing a shaft seal is a fairly straightforward job but the trick is finding a shop at will do the repair instead of wanting to replace the compressor. It requires special tools to change a shaft seal though. If the clutch face is clean, examine the body of the compressor - if the case is oily, then the case seals are leaking. This is one case where I would replace the compressor. Don't buy a chain store remanufactured compressor - they are all junk... By an ACDelco unit if replacement is necessary. Sometimes, the leak is so small, it takes years to leak down enough to set the low refrigerant message. Proper diagnosis is the key. That's scary Kevin, I said, KHE will ad more in my post #6, at the same time you POSTED!.... Hows that for being in tune.. It's not scary - were just synchronized. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 okay, where else can i look for a possible leak, i'm a DIY kinda person and um new to the whole car maintenance thing( i just bought my first paid off car), so i wanna know everything i should be looking for. also if i find the leak does that mean that the part has to be replaced( if it's not the seal). and will this be a important step to getting my a/c working properly. because i have no heated or cooled air that blows out of the vents Have you inspected the compressor as I described in my earlier post??? You need to find the source of the leak - it could be simple such as an o-ring at a connection or a leaking schrader valve. I have also seen the aluminum lines worn through on some cars due to the lines touching each other or a chassis part. The nature of the leak will dictate the repair method. Is ANY air blowing out of the vents? How about the floor outlets? When the climate control is set to heat, the air will blow out the floor outlets. okay, but question, what do you mean by "Adding a pound in 5-10 years is not uncommon." and um pretty sure that it has been converted. it's has a low pressure port not on a line but on the accumulator. it's the only port that matched the r-13 refrigerant gauge cord. All automotive A/C systems will leak a slight amount of refrigerant over time - compressor shaft seals leak, etc. An automotove system is not a hermetically sealed system like a home A/C unit or a refrigerator. GM A/C systems have had the low pressure port on the accumulator for many many years - if your system has been converted to R-134a there will be a label somewhere under the hood stating so. Also, the ports will have quick disconnect fitting adapters on them. They look like a large air compressor line connector. The old R-12 ports look like a large tire valve. You refer to an "R-13 refrigerant cord". You must mean R-134a as you must have a license to purchase R-12, R-13, R-11, etc... By the way, it is IMPOSSIBLE to determine the state of the charge in the system by the low pressure port only despite what all the labels on the junk that is sold in the auto parts stores states. Does your compressor clutch engage when you turn on the A/C? Feel the evaporator inlet and outlines (where the A/C pipes enter the firewall) They should be very close to the same temperature. If the outlet is warmer than the inlet, the system is low on refrigerant. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 ok. so what if theres not a leak, and the compressor works. then what else could be the reason that my a/c doesnt blow cold. i saw no leakage on the compressor seal or anything. so what else should i check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 Condenser clogged with dead bugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 ok. so what if theres not a leak, and the compressor works. then what else could be the reason that my a/c doesnt blow cold. i saw no leakage on the compressor seal or anything. so what else should i check Did you check the evaporator inlet and outlet pipe temperatures? Are there any codes set in the onboard diagnostics? Simultaneously press and hold the OFF and WARMER buttons on the climate control panel and see if any codes are displayed on the information center. If you have a dual zone system, the buttons to press are OFF and PASSENGER WARMER buttons. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 i never see any codes but i'll try to pull them up if they're there. AND MAYBE THIS IS A SILLY QUESTION. but was the 1992 sts intended to blow cold air like todays cars. i expect it too because in my opinion the 92 sts was ahead of its time. but i have to ask cause i never dealt with a 92 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 i never see any codes but i'll try to pull them up if they're there. AND MAYBE THIS IS A SILLY QUESTION. but was the 1992 sts intended to blow cold air like todays cars. i expect it too because in my opinion the 92 sts was ahead of its time. but i have to ask cause i never dealt with a 92 Do you mean, will the AC get cold? Definately, probably better. My 91 had fantastic ac. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 ok i found out that the compressor still works and and no leaks. let me ask though. is the a/c drier and accumulater the same thing. and ca i clean out the condensor or do i have to have it replaced completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 and also can the A/C Evaporator be a factor in why my a/c isnt blowing cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 ok i found out that the compressor still works and and no leaks. let me ask though. is the a/c drier and accumulater the same thing. and ca i clean out the condensor or do i have to have it replaced completely. Yes the accumulator and drier are the same thing. I replaced my condenser, KHE stated that its near impossible to flush them out due to its design (parallel tubes?). Mine was about $200 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 19, 2008 Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 and also can the A/C Evaporator be a factor in why my a/c isnt blowing cold Are you sure you are not low on refrigerant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 it doesnt hold the refrigerant. when ever i test the pressure, there is none. im not sure where to find the leak, and i would think it's a really big leak because even if i add the refrigerant the air the a/c doesnt even get cold or anything not even for a moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 19, 2008 Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 You are going to have to put a dye in the system to locate the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjelie8706 Posted February 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 You are going to have to put a dye in the system to locate the leak. will i have to find a dark garage to do this in with a black light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 19, 2008 Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 You will need a black light, but you also need the proper equipment to inject the dye in the system and charge it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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