95-4.6l Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 Hi. I'd like to change or clean my egr valve. Probably will try to clean it first if this turns out to be an easy process.. I was getting some P036 codes recently (EGR Valve Pintle Position Out of Range). I have the new recall steel fuel rail which shares a bolt with the egr valve.. What is the best way to move the fuel rail? Should one lift the injectors up with the rail? or disconnect the injectors at their tops and lift the rail off the injectors? (i see a little metal clip that looks like it could be opened). Thanks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 Lifting the rail with the injectors attached would be easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Good info to know. With the nylon line, I got the pintle error twice. right before I had the stainless rails done, I used a torx bit to spin the pintle valve while pushing it in&out & spraying with cleaning fluid. I had the recall done about 2 years now, I the last cleaning has held up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95-4.6l Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 I see. Took a stab at it today. I was able to lift the fuel rail up a bit - with the injectors still attached. I didn't realize the fuel rail bolt piggy-backs over the EGR bolt on that side. I couldn't get at that second bolt. I didn't want to completely remove the fuel rail to get at it - and I didn't have the right size tool to disconnect the fuel lines either.. So I put everything back together and went looking for more tools. I got some right-angle needle nose pliers and also a universal joint socket to try out if it doesn't rain all day tomorrow.. One question though.. This is probably a general car operational question.. I have been starting the car in Neutral because of a sketchy P/N position switch. When I tried to step on the brake to shift into N.. I couldn't. Luckily I was able to start in Park this time though. Is there a way to avoid that loss of brake function while doing this procedure (the EGR removal). I don't want to do this whole EGR cleaning and then not be able to start the car.. Heh.. I undid some vacuum lines and unhooked the battery while doing this. Related? Thanks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 I have been starting the car in Neutral because of a sketchy P/N position switch. When I tried to step on the brake to shift into N.. I couldn't. Luckily I was able to start in Park this time though. Is there a way to avoid that loss of brake function while doing this procedure (the EGR removal). I don't want to do this whole EGR cleaning and then not be able to start the car.. Heh.. I undid some vacuum lines and unhooked the battery while doing this. Related? Thanks.. Yes... the brakes are vacumn assisted, using a vacumn booster attached to the master cylinder. By disconnecting the vacumn hoses, you allowed the vacumn to dissipate, thus leading to the HARD brake pedal. If you are worried about not being able to start it in PARK... you could set the parking brake and CHOCK the wheels GOOD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95-4.6l Posted February 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Yes... the brakes are vacumn assisted, using a vacumn booster attached to the master cylinder. By disconnecting the vacumn hoses, you allowed the vacumn to dissipate, thus leading to the HARD brake pedal. If you are worried about not being able to start it in PARK... you could set the parking brake and CHOCK the wheels GOOD. Hm.. I couldn't seem to move the shift lever. Am I reading this right.. the hard brake pedal is still functional if I put more pressure on it - allowing me to shift to N? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Hm.. I couldn't seem to move the shift lever. Am I reading this right.. the hard brake pedal is still functional if I put more pressure on it - allowing me to shift to N? That SHOULD work. Press it pretty hard and hold it for a minute. It SHOULD go down far enough for you to get it out of park. Use your parking brake and block the wheels REAL GOOD so that it can't roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95-4.6l Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 ok. i've made several attempts to work around the fuel rail with various tools - i thought a crows foot socket would work but it wouldn't fit either. I also tried unhooking the fuel lines several times using a plastic removal tool. It doesn't seem to push the springy tabs inside the connector out far enough to release. Is there a special GM fuel line removal tool maybe with a thicker split collar business end to it?.. btw.. is this very bad... - to be running the car with a stuck egr valve.. am i damaging the engine every time i drive with the P036 code current/SES light on? and am i not likely to pass a smog check?... the days have gotten away from me on this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 I believe that there is a "special" GM fuel line disconnect tool. You won't do any damage running it that way, but you will not pass inspection and you will hurt driveability and probably fuel mileage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95-4.6l Posted February 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 I believe that there is a "special" GM fuel line disconnect tool. You won't do any damage running it that way, but you will not pass inspection and you will hurt driveability and probably fuel mileage. thanks. ah.. what is the hose that runs into the rearward side of the throttle body? can i safely temporarily detach it to remove the fuel rail? would such detachment cause any other systems to not operate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 Hmm, probably a vacuum hose. Where does it run to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95-4.6l Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Hmm, probably a vacuum hose. Where does it run to? One end is spring-clipped to the throttle body - the side which faces the driver and rear of the car. The other end runs to a round drum at the back wall of the engine compartment. The hose is about 3/4 inch in diameter - black. It crosses over the fuel rail then passes through a plastic hold-down clip then goes to the round drum and connects to it with a right-angle connector.. perhaps the drum is the brake master cylinder.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95-4.6l Posted February 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 perhaps the drum is the brake master cylinder.. ok. i found it in the manual.. booster vacuum hose.. the round drum is the brake booster.. ok to just unhook and later reattach in order to remove fuel rail..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Yes. when you unhook it you will loose brake booster vacuum, but it will rebuild as soon as the car is started again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95-4.6l Posted February 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 Yes. when you unhook it you will loose brake booster vacuum, but it will rebuild as soon as the car is started again. thanks. ended up not having to unhook. i see the mention of the booster earlier in the thread too now.. finally got it done this morning.. i got the right fuel line removal tool for GM and unhooked the fuel rail. the smell of raw fuel is very refreshing. The way everything is all put together seems much more obvious once you've taken it apart. In hindsight, it may not have been necessary to unhook the fuel lines. I had previously unbolted only the rear posts holding down the rail - for some reason thinking that would be enough.. With all of them off there might be enough clearance. I unhooked the fuel lines anyway.. Once all the injectors are lifted clear of their ports, the rail assembly can be moved sideways toward the passenger side (staying parallel to the axle). this also didn't seem obvious to me before.. I thought i'd have to lift everything up higher and past the brake booster hose. I supported the fuel rail on some balled up paper towels on both sides with the injectors suspended so they wouldn't drop down and get damaged or pick up a lot of gunk. I actually had to replace the unit. I got the old one off and sprayed electronics cleaner at the pintle. It moved a little inwards a bit but then froze solid in the closed position. Tried throttle body cleaner also. Would NOT budge.. Ended up buying a reman-ed one at the autozone. Anyway, it's been gratifying to unhook everything and put it back together and have the car still run. But yes, it all seems much more obvious once you're done. Deep well socket helps a lot for the valve posts and the fuel rail posts... Anyway, the engine light is out now. A real relief not to have the yellow light shining in my eye.. Ahh.. Glad to finally get this done. Thanks a lot for all the info and responses guys. Much appreciated. Can move on to other parts of the car now.. Heh heh.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.