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help Removing Front CV Axle from Transmission


BarneyKris

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We are changing out a front CV axle because of a cracked boot. We have the wheel side free but are having trouble removing the axle from the tranny. we don't want to wreck any tranny seals etc. i have the GM manual and they list a special c-shaped ring and puller (like dent puller) to remove it. I do not have the specialty parts for this method.

Any tricks or advice on how to remove it. We yanked on the axle and pulled it out at the boot but need to remove rest (just a core on old axle so was't worried about pulling on it since not re-using it.)

will a pry bar work without damage. Or two pry bars with equal leverage from both sides? any other tools???

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Ed is correct, use a pry bar, I had my LF out over the summer, it pops,

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You might also try grasping the axle near the trans. and moving the axle in a circular direction while exerting outward force and it should pop out. Don't rotate the axle (hold it in the same radial position while moving the axle in a circular position. In other words, keep the 12:00 position of the axle in the 12:00 position while moving the axle in a circular path while exerting force normal (outward) to the transmission.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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My 1997 FSM is probably good for this since the transmission on your car is the same as mine, the 4T80E. My FSM says that there is a barrel snap ring on the right half-axle and special tools are used to release it. The FSM specifically says not to pull on the half shaft. The FSM says that it will come out in your hand if you get the barrel snap ring off, and I think that using pry bars and such is just about guaranteed to damage the transmission.

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My 1997 FSM is probably good for this since the transmission on your car is the same as mine, the 4T80E. My FSM says that there is a barrel snap ring on the right half-axle and special tools are used to release it. The FSM specifically says not to pull on the half shaft. The FSM says that it will come out in your hand if you get the barrel snap ring off, and I think that using pry bars and such is just about guaranteed to damage the transmission.

Jim,

Would you scan and post the information from your shop manual? I checked my '96 manual and there is no mention of the snap ring - just a slide hammer and the axle adapter. It must have been a change for '97. In any case, the information would be helpful.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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My 1997 FSM is probably good for this since the transmission on your car is the same as mine, the 4T80E. My FSM says that there is a barrel snap ring on the right half-axle and special tools are used to release it. The FSM specifically says not to pull on the half shaft. The FSM says that it will come out in your hand if you get the barrel snap ring off, and I think that using pry bars and such is just about guaranteed to damage the transmission.

Jim,

Would you scan and post the information from your shop manual? I checked my '96 manual and there is no mention of the snap ring - just a slide hammer and the axle adapter. It must have been a change for '97. In any case, the information would be helpful.

The snap ring is inside the tranny, and it creates a detent that the axle shaft to 'snap' into, it can still be backed out with a pry bar, you can't see the snap ring nor do you need to remove it, I believe its on the end of the axle and it snaps into a groove.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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It soulds like the half-shafts are the same as other GM FWD applications that I have worked on in the past. My old Park Avenue had a circlip that was as BBF described - NO WAY to access the clip until the axle was out. Once the axle was out, there was no need to remove the circlip. The FSM says not to pull on the axle because they do not want to CV joint to become over extended. Using a slide hammer or a prybar on the first section is not the same as pulling on the axle.

Edited by KHE

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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On my 99 Deville I had tried pulling on the whole shaft and it seperated at the boot. I then took 2 pair of vise grips and attached one to the outer side of the part remaining in the trans and attached the second one to the first vise grip on a right angle and rapped on the second one and the axle popped right out without much force at all.

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  • 1 year later...

I had to do this repair today... I tried the prying here and there, 2 screwdrivers, etc... I found by far the easiest way to get the axle out. Easiest way I EVER got an axle shaft out. I took a mini crow bar and from underneath, slipped it over the end of the axle between the trans and inner end of the shaft. (From the front, open end facing the rear.) I took a 4 foot long 2x4, and hit the bottom of the pry bar, and it popped right out. I was actually doing a "lining it up" swing, hit it, and it popped right out. I slid it back in just to see if it would come out that easy again, and sure enough, popped right back out. I think the even pressure it puts on the axle has something to do with it. I used the $4 type/small pry bar with a fairly sharp hook on the end. Works great!

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I had to do this repair today... I tried the prying here and there, 2 screwdrivers, etc... I found by far the easiest way to get the axle out. Easiest way I EVER got an axle shaft out. I took a mini crow bar and from underneath, slipped it over the end of the axle between the trans and inner end of the shaft. (From the front, open end facing the rear.) I took a 4 foot long 2x4, and hit the bottom of the pry bar, and it popped right out. I was actually doing a "lining it up" swing, hit it, and it popped right out. I slid it back in just to see if it would come out that easy again, and sure enough, popped right back out. I think the even pressure it puts on the axle has something to do with it. I used the $4 type/small pry bar with a fairly sharp hook on the end. Works great!

I tried to replace the right axle on my former '94 Eldorado two times and couldn't get it out. When you say pry bar, is this what you mean?:

Pry bar

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The axle should 'snap' out fairly easily.

That said, I had a passenger side axle that had bearing damage. Took hours of pounding to remove the axle from the trans. The repair included a used diff assembly and new transmission case extention housing.

Also, be aware there are different axles available depending on the type of CV bearing used. I attached a pic of a heavy version next to the lighter Deville version. This part alone was something like 8 lbs heavier. You will feel it driving the car.

I found aftermarket axles to be the 'heavy' design and poor quality rubber boots. Your best bet is a used OEM low mileage shaft with the GM 'plastic' boots.

In the picture. Axle on right is the one that had to be pounded out. You can see the bearing surface has bearing smear.

post-2-1248793792_thumb.jpg

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Here is another pic of the damaged bearing surface. Never did quite figure out what caused the damage.

Bearing had weld marks every 40 degress or so. See black marker marks.

post-2-1248795175_thumb.jpg

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The axle should 'snap' out fairly easily.

That said, I had a passenger side axle that had bearing damage. Took hours of pounding to remove the axle from the trans. The repair included a used diff assembly and new transmission case extention housing.

Also, be aware there are different axles available depending on the type of CV bearing used. I attached a pic of a heavy version next to the lighter Deville version. This part alone was something like 8 lbs heavier. You will feel it driving the car.

I found aftermarket axles to be the 'heavy' design and poor quality rubber boots. Your best bet is a used OEM low mileage shaft with the GM 'plastic' boots.

In the picture. Axle on right is the one that had to be pounded out. You can see the bearing surface has bearing smear.

Thanks for the pics. The axle I'm having problems getting out is like the one on the right. I didn't do any pounding on it but it's not coming out easily as I expected. Now that I'm aware there may be some damage I will try to rig something up to push it out by tightening bolts against the transaxle. Just a thought. I gave my Eldo to someone and I'm trying to get the front end in shape to have it aligned. I'm suspicious about the axle and want to replace it with a used OEM I purchased on ebay.

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I had to do this repair today... I tried the prying here and there, 2 screwdrivers, etc... I found by far the easiest way to get the axle out. Easiest way I EVER got an axle shaft out. I took a mini crow bar and from underneath, slipped it over the end of the axle between the trans and inner end of the shaft. (From the front, open end facing the rear.) I took a 4 foot long 2x4, and hit the bottom of the pry bar, and it popped right out. I was actually doing a "lining it up" swing, hit it, and it popped right out. I slid it back in just to see if it would come out that easy again, and sure enough, popped right back out. I think the even pressure it puts on the axle has something to do with it. I used the $4 type/small pry bar with a fairly sharp hook on the end. Works great!

I tried to replace the right axle on my former '94 Eldorado two times and couldn't get it out. When you say pry bar, is this what you mean?:

Pry bar

Yes sir.... only the one I used is a "mini" type. The tool is only about 11 inches long. Hook around the axle shaft, and smack the bottom of the pry bar from underneath straight towards the other axle shaft..

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  • 3 years later...

This is the best way to do it. Go down to autozone and rent for free a slide hammer and FWD axle puller adapter for the slide hammer. You pay $50 up front and when you bring them back they give you the $50 back. Free.

OEM/5 lbs. Slide Hammer: Part Number: 27033

OEM/FWD Axle Puller Adapter: Part Number: 27058

The crowfoot attachment will go around the end of the CV nearest the transmision and then the slide hammer screws into it and safley, without damage, forces it out. Works every time.

post-23841-0-58984700-1355367339_thumb.j

post-23841-0-74328100-1355367356_thumb.j

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