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lucas engine treatment


CUNYSTEVE

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when i purchased my caddy a month ago, it had sat for about a year and when i started it it sounded a little rough. i was advised to use one quart of lucas engine treatment (thick honey like additive) with 6.5 quarts of gtx high milage 10w-40. since then i had my oil changed and chose to stick with the 1 quart of lucas. is this a bad idea? appreciate any help.

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when i purchased my caddy a month ago, it had sat for about a year and when i started it it sounded a little rough.
Not sure what you mean here. Was it not firing all 8 cylinders all the time? Was it making unusual noises (that call would require some experience with what is usual)?

....i was advised to use one quart of lucas engine treatment (thick honey like additive) with 6.5 quarts of gtx high milage 10w-40.
Most folks I know would have advised you to pull the plugs, squirt some 10W-30 oil in the combustion chamber, spin the starter for a minute or two, and install the plugs.

....since then i had my oil changed and chose to stick with the 1 quart of lucas. is this a bad idea? appreciate any help.
I don't see any reason it is a bad idea; but I also do not see any reason to apply an oil additive of any kind. Modern 10W-30 (Starburst) oil contains the chemistry required to keep your engine properly lubricated.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Be VERY careful with any fuel injector cleaner. We used to have a Northstar Powertrain Design Engineer come here, you probably have seen us refer to him as the GURU. Well he totally disagreed with the use of fuel injector cleaner as it could strip the varnish/shellac coating off the injector and fuel pump windings.

The only one I use is Techron, this is the ingrediant in some of the Tier 1 gasolines. And I ONLY use it when I am going to BURN through a tank of gas very fast on a trip and ONLY use it on a FULL tank and ONLY at the right concentration.

Use FUEL INJECTOR CLEANERS at your own risk

That said, I believe that the Lucas appears to be an oil based product as opposed to an STP acetate base

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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You'll find that a lot of members don't see any need for oil additives. I've used oil treatment just to add additional Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP), which is the anti-wear additive in oil. The 1990s Northstar engines can benefit from additional ZDDP to lessen friction produced by flat tappet lifters. Some use diesel oil such as Shell Rotella because it has more ZDDP--at least, this is the current view. In 2000, the Northstar was redesigned with roller follower valvegear which produce less friction for improved fuel economy. Northstar engines made from 2000 on are not affected by the current lower amounts of ZDDP.

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Back on topic. You should be using 10W-30 on the 97sts and, as JimD mentioned, there is no need for the additional use of the Lucas oil treatment. Once the engine has been run hard and oil drained, the only thing you should need to put back in is straight 10W-30.... unless you like spending the extra money needlessly.

"Burns" rubber

" I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. "

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I took Steve's question more along the line of "is this doing any harm", and I would say no.

Is it necessary? Probably not.

The Lucas Fuel injector cleaner is an oil base, not a solvent base, and I've used it with great results.

Actually, JimD, in his first reply there, does point out a good tip though: if you're trying to start something that hasn't been run in awhile, it's a great idea to pull the plugs, pour in motor oil, crank it, pour in more oil, crank it, then put the plugs back in, and try to start it.

I know it's a pain, but that's the way to do it. Also, if you know you're putting something away that isn't goign to run for awhile, that's a real good idea too...

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The Lucas fuel injector cleaner isn't a solvent as others are. I've used it for years on a variety of cars and have never had a problem. Actually, it's the only additive I use.

I agree, that the solvent based cleaners are inferior and potentially dangerous

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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The Lucas fuel injector cleaner isn't a solvent as others are. I've used it for years on a variety of cars and have never had a problem. Actually, it's the only additive I use.

If it is not a solvent, how does it clean anything?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I have always used the Lucas oil additive good bad or indifferent it makes me feel better.

I may try the fuel injector cleaner, and I agree to use it when you will burn up the tank quickly

so its not sitting around in the tank and pumps.

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I would consider adding 8oz of Marvel Mystery oil to the gas. it lubricates & coats the fuel pump, injectors, and internal engine componants. it can be purchased at any auto store, or walmart etc. it's cheap, and I swear I can actually hear it quiet the engine & injectors. Friction is more harmful to the internal workings of an engine than a little varnish, & trying to remove the varnish is more damaging to the engine with these over the counter products than most people realize.

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  • 1 year later...

My 97 Cadillac Deville was experiencing major oil pressure problems and I came to this site and found information on Shell Rotella and took that information with me when i got my next oil change. They didnt have Shell products available so they offered me some Lucas Oil Stabilizer and I havent had a problem with oil pressure problems since! I highly recommend Lucas for all who have high mileage vehicles with oil pressure problems.

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My 97 Cadillac Deville was experiencing major oil pressure problems and I came to this site and found information on Shell Rotella and took that information with me when i got my next oil change. They didnt have Shell products available so they offered me some Lucas Oil Stabilizer and I havent had a problem with oil pressure problems since! I highly recommend Lucas for all who have high mileage vehicles with oil pressure problems.

Explain in more detail what you mean by MAJOR OIL PRESSURE PROBLEMS please

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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No snake oil is going to solve oil pressure problems, or any other mechanical problem for that matter. Repairs in a bottle don't work.

It worked for me Ranger, as I have not seen that flickering oil symbol in over 3 months. It works the same way the Shell Rotella works on high mileage vehicles. Its only miracle is it is very thick, but i wouldnt recommend it in cold climates.

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My 97 Cadillac Deville was experiencing major oil pressure problems and I came to this site and found information on Shell Rotella and took that information with me when i got my next oil change. They didnt have Shell products available so they offered me some Lucas Oil Stabilizer and I havent had a problem with oil pressure problems since! I highly recommend Lucas for all who have high mileage vehicles with oil pressure problems.

Explain in more detail what you mean by MAJOR OIL PRESSURE PROBLEMS please

What i mean by major is within 10 minutes of my 97 Deville warming up I would get that flickering oil pressure light at every stop sign or stop light and once i recieved the message that i needed to stop the engine immediately because of the low oil pressure. My vehicle has 140,000 miles on it and I started experiencing that flickering light around 3 yrs ago. Because of this problem i rarely drove the car more than 75 miles a week because I was worried and before i happened upon this site i was thinking about selling it, but now that i see its common i'm going to hang on to it for another 60,000 miles.

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No snake oil is going to solve oil pressure problems, or any other mechanical problem for that matter. Repairs in a bottle don't work.

It worked for me Ranger, as I have not seen that flickering oil symbol in over 3 months. It works the same way the Shell Rotella works on high mileage vehicles. Its only miracle is it is very thick, but i wouldnt recommend it in cold climates.

Well, I guess in that case you could probably use a 10W40 oil or add some STP to thicken it up. That stuff is like honey.

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OK, now I understand. I have the idle oil light flicker problem in the summer months also, and using 15W40 Rotella does the same thing.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Yep, Mine came back too. I am all up for some additative in my oil too.

Does anyone know were that seal is that we suspect is causing the low pressure? I'm hopeing I can get to bolts to tighten something, or at least add RTV, or pour a little brake fluid on a gasket to make it swell. it's a little problem that will probably need a "creative" fix that's not edorced by many on this board, or any engineer. Just don't wat to spend the thousands to get it fixed.

BTW, please do not put me in the category of "seal a headgasket with snakeoil club" - I just think a little polymer engineering here can add just enough pressure so I din't get that flicker, and "STOP ENGINE" :)

Edited by winterset
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There has to be something I am not understanding about the low oil pressure warning symptoms here.

If in fact, the oil pressure is low, I would expect to see folks reporting hearing some noise. From bearings. Some call it "rattling". But I see no reports of rattling bearings or noisy valve lifters.

Why would you not suspect the oil pressure sending switch? That is the first part I would throw money at (OEM only; aftermarket generic parts are not a good choice for this part).

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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I am using this board at it's fullest. I have the advantage that BBF has the same car as me. I recall he went thru this all (changed the sensor), along with others here. It was discussed that there's a gasket that dries out - especially when the car had a history of not being driven much. My car sat for months not being driven for many years. Yes, there are no symptoms because it's just a flicker, so we are at the low end of pressure issues, and probably within the safety net of GM engineers being careful when to have the car report low pressure to the driver. Unfortunately it's nerving - especially when the car displays to turn off the engine. I'm afraid if I start hearing noise, it's too late. Whenever I get the stop engine - I do. the last 2 weeks have been rough - especially if I get caught in traffic. I even get it at ~1000 - where I used to get it at that infaous 625rpm (idle) I think this low oil pressure flicker is becoming the "issue d'jour" as these cars get older, and sometimes aren't used as a daily driver.

Edited by winterset
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I am using this board at it's fullest. I have the advantage that BBF has the same car as me. I recall he went thru this all (changed the sensor), along with others here....

Have you replaced your sensor??

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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