Help I Need Advise on 99 SLS

[Burcham]

Hey All,

I have a 94 sls, and am currently looking at a 99 SLS. The car looks and runs great, the milage is a bit high, 138k, but the price is 5500. I drove it today, and like I said it runs great, drives good, BUT: It has the transmission jerk that I am familiar with on the 94, PO56 input speed sensor. Owner gave me $20 to put in gas for test drive, that brought it up to 1/2 tank. Drove down the street, and it was on empty, then up to 1/4 then empty, then 1/2, then empty, ect. Further along, whole IPC went blank, radio went off. Then all back on. This happened several times. Tried to check codes, but there were about 100 or so set as current, or history. Tried to clear, but didn't know correct procedure. Took it to a auto electrical specialist, and was told it might be ICP needs replacing, 350 to 750 or Body Control Module might need to be reburned. He refered me to another Mech he said was more up on caddys. Did look under car, and does have oil leak. ( Why has Caddiliac not fixed this problem yet??) ANYWAY, do any of yall have any suggestions, should I run like a scalded dog from this car? Owner seemed willing to negotiate on price, or have it repaired. You opinions will greatly infulence my decision.

Thanks in Advance

Dave

[MAC]

I would first check the battery cables, particularly the positive cable, for corrosion. Remove the ground cable first and then positive cables and clean thoroughly. Wal-Mart sells battery acid cleaner (it works well). Clean acid including under the red plastic insulation, which is where acid build-up tends to collect. Then I would remove the battery ground (located near the battery, bolted near positive terminal) and check for rust or anything else that might cause a problem. The PCM ground is located on the transaxle next to the right side transaxle mount. If you remove the right wheel you can see the mount and the ground will be visible. I would check that as well. Once you clean battery terminals and check grounds, check for codes.

[Burcham]

Thanks for the advise, I thought, it might be a loose ground, or battery problem, but opened the hood and couldn't find the battery. I thought they might have put it in the engine with the starter. I dont own this car yet, and it is at the owner's house. I will have to take it for another test drive to try out anything. Got the code procedure and code list and found out the battery is under rear passenger seat. Armed with your suggestions, I will make another attempt. I was really most interested in the transmission jerk I spoke of, but the IPC may be more of a problem.

Thanks

Dave

[CadiKing]

Thanks for the advise, I thought, it might be a loose ground, or battery problem, but opened the hood and couldn't find the battery. I thought they might have put it in the engine with the starter. I dont own this car yet, and it is at the owner's house. I will have to take it for another test drive to try out anything. Got the code procedure and code list and found out the battery is under rear passenger seat. Armed with your suggestions, I will make another attempt. I was really most interested in the transmission jerk I spoke of, but the IPC may be more of a problem.

Thanks

Dave

Dave,

Push (HARD) Against the Bottom of the seat to position the clips so you can lift the front of the seat

and remove... Battery is normally in pretty good shape under there, unless the vent tube is disconnected.

My opinion... there are so many Caddy's out there...$3 gas...

1.) Buy and STS not an SLS.. You WILL not be disappointed! Can you say active suspension? How about 300 hp?

2.) Don't buy somebody's problem...Seller offering to pay to fix doesn't change the fact: he was ready to

sell to you as is ... (Take you money elsewhere!) DO YOU WANT A TRANNY PROBLEM?

good luck... jim

[Ranger]

Buy and STS not an SLS.. You WILL not be disappointed! Can you say active suspension? How about 300 hp?

Now how can you say that. He may not want an STS. When I bought my '02 I specifically looked for an SLS because it had the features I wanted and did not have the features I did not want (active $u$pension, 3.71 final drive, stiff $u$pension).

[Burcham]

You bring up a pretty good point Jim, but in the area I live in, there are not that many local cars that come on the market. Most used caddys in my price range are on the second or third tier dealers lots. Yes for sure I would like to have the STS. Thats what I was in the market for. White STS, just happed to see this White SLS at a mans house. Old 94 is still runnin good so I'm not in a great hurry to buy anything. But would hate to miss a good car that was cheap and didn't have a lot of problems. A dirty battery connection I can handle, but hate to buy it with a screwed tranny. Thanks for your advise.

Thanks

Dave

[TDK]

Burcham,

Hopefully you can remove and clean the battery cable long enough to clear the various codes. Many could have ben caused by the wacky power, some will re-appear just from the power outage itself and others are probably current issues. Pressing the OFF and WARMER buttons together for a few seconds at the HVAC controls usually brings up the diagnostics. After reading each with up/down arrows, they can all be cleared.

The P056 (Input Speed Sensor) is the infamous $20 part but a $2,000 job by a dealership to get into the tranny. However, if you seach on P056 you will find a LOT of threads along with this very interesting link to a work-around to replacement.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/north...-need-help.html Note that I don't know how the work-around works short or long term, but it could be an elegant solution.

If the maintenace was not too great or documented, then you might want to consider a hydrocarbon test on the coolant in case of a headgasket issue. The other typical used car rules certainly apply as well; check fluids levels, colors/smells, etc. At least the Caddy has built-in diagnostics to assist.

Good Luck

[Burcham]

OK, I drove the car again today. DIC was not flashing or radio going off and on. Looked at battery, appeared to be new. Anyway I could check codes. Had several in History, but only one current. PCM PO741 Torque Converter System Stuck OFF. Took it to the Caddy place, and they said was a common $1500 problem. Mech I knew there drove it, and told me that for the price of the car, and the repair, he would just live with it. That it not that big of a deal. Any way I drove it for 20 more miles, and code did not return, no codes on any of the other systems. I know that don't mean the code wont pop up the first 2 miles after I buy it. Your opinions on this will be greatly appreciated as I must make a decisison soon. Buy the way I got him down to $5000 even.

Thanks In Advance for All of Your Help And Advise

Dave

[Ranger]

He is right. You CAN live with the Torque Converter System Stuck Off. Do a search for P0741. It has been discussed many times.

[Burcham]

Thanks for the advise Ranger, I've about made my mind up to buy it. It's in great shape, 3 body men could not find any sign of wrecks, or said if it had been they did a great job. It drove great in city and on highway. I put in REGULAR, and hwy was 27, city around 18. You don't ever really know about a used vehical until you own it. But if your going to buy one, you finally have to either go for it, or let it go.

Thanks Sincerely

Dave

[WarrenJ]

He is right. You CAN live with the Torque Converter System Stuck Off. Do a search for P0741. It has been discussed many times..

OKAY! He has the TCC stuck off; he also has the ISS defective (at times). Intermittent or not, that's a BIG problem.

An oil leak as well? This is "scalded dog" territory where I come from. The car doesn't warrant the cost of repairs. Clean the battery terminals if you care to; you'll still have an oil leak, a stuck TCC and a bad ISS.

You shouldn't fall in love with a beautiful dog no matter what kinda musclebound flea you are. RUN!

Regards,

Warren

[JasonA]

I totally agree with Ranger that someone in the market for an SLS isn't necessarily looking for an STS. The torque of the SLS is much more noticeable and usable in regular traffic. The STS doesn't feel as peppy just poking around town. You have to let it run to see the speed. The suspension is also MUCH stiffer. I didn't buy my STS for ANY of those things. All things considered, an SLS would have been fine for me. I wanted the White Diamond color, I wanted the wood trim inside (wheel, shifter), I wanted the sunroof, and, most of all, I wanted a 2000+ Northstar. I happened across a beautiful 2001 STS that fit the bill, and I've gotten used to the ride and differences in power curves. Mileage is down, though. I can't say that I appreciate that. I wouldn't go back -- I've really grown to enjoy this car, but the STS is by no means "better" or "more desireable" than the SLS. It may be to some people, but be careful not to generalize.

I also agree with Warren; this car has too many known problems for me to want to mess with it. Both transmission problems are expensive to repair. Why knowingly buy these problems just to live with them? Given the electrical issues you've already experienced, it's hard to make a judgement now on whether they were due to a bad battery or a loose connection or something more serious. There are too many variables with this particular car (from what the fellow has written) for me to want to bite on it. Give him the estimate for repair of the transmission problems (~$1500), and knock that off the price. See what he says.

[Ranger]

He is right. You CAN live with the Torque Converter System Stuck Off. Do a search for P0741. It has been discussed many times..

OKAY! He has the TCC stuck off; he also has the ISS defective (at times). Intermittent or not, that's a BIG problem.

An oil leak as well? This is "scalded dog" territory where I come from. The car doesn't warrant the cost of repairs. Clean the battery terminals if you care to; you'll still have an oil leak, a stuck TCC and a bad ISS.

You shouldn't fall in love with a beautiful dog no matter what kinda musclebound flea you are. RUN!

Regards,

Warren

I forgot about the ISS problem.

[Burcham]

Thanks all for your advise and comments. I went yesterday for 1 more test drive. No codes or IPC issues, UNTIL: I decided to take it to Advance Auto for a battery load test. Battery checked ok, but when I started to leave, IPC went wild again. Pulled cables, clean, body gnd, ok, small gnd to back fuse block ok. Tried several times to clear codes, but panel would not operate long enough. Got all kinds of interesting messages: High Voltage, Low Voltage, Ice Conditions, Low Range, Speed Limited to 90, 0, Idle Engine, Temp pegged out. Fuel dropped to empty then full, heater came on even though I had it turned off.

Took it back gave him the keys and said thank you, But NO DEAL.

Now for some Questions about things I'm not familar with.

1. What is the ISS, have done searches but could not find anything on this.

2. Was told at Advanced that when they change a battery on a caddy, they plug in a power pack, or they have to call the dealer to get the car started. That it was some sort of anti-theft issue. Is that true on newer caddys. Or is that just to save memory settings.

3. Do people actually have 4.6 N* that don't leak oil. The place where I get mine changed say they all leak new or old. My nephew works part time at Wally World in the auto service center, while attending college, said he would never buy a caddy because they all leak oil.

4. How do you pick a used caddy off a lot? Most lots around here would not let you test drive without a co-pilot for 3 times 2 or 3 hours a time. If I had driven this car only 1 time at a dealer and had the results I had the 2nd time I drove it. I probably would have bought it, then been stuck with IPC or ISS issue that it has. Most dealers here have an "AS IS" or maybe a short power train warranty and would tell you that the IPC is not the engine or tranny, and is your problem.

Any Way as I said, thanks for all the advise and comments. My life is pretty hetic now, I have plenty of headaches and you kind folks here have saved me from BUYING another.

Thanks for Your Help

Dave

[KHE]

Now for some Questions about things I'm not familar with.

1. What is the ISS, have done searches but could not find anything on this.

2. Was told at Advanced that when they change a battery on a caddy, they plug in a power pack, or they have to call the dealer to get the car started. That it was some sort of anti-theft issue. Is that true on newer caddys. Or is that just to save memory settings.

3. Do people actually have 4.6 N* that don't leak oil. The place where I get mine changed say they all leak new or old. My nephew works part time at Wally World in the auto service center, while attending college, said he would never buy a caddy because they all leak oil.

4. How do you pick a used caddy off a lot? Most lots around here would not let you test drive without a co-pilot for 3 times 2 or 3 hours a time. If I had driven this car only 1 time at a dealer and had the results I had the 2nd time I drove it. I probably would have bought it, then been stuck with IPC or ISS issue that it has. Most dealers here have an "AS IS" or maybe a short power train warranty and would tell you that the IPC is not the engine or tranny, and is your problem.

1. ISS is the Transmission input speed sensor - A big job to replace the part - BodybyFisher recently changed his - search the board and read up on his posts and you'll see what's involved in replacing the sensor.

2. That's a new one... It is probably to save the clock and fuel data settings - the radio presets don't erase when the battery is disconnected.

3. Yes - My Fleetwood Brougham is leak free as well as both of my Northstars. My '97 STS is spotless underneath. All Cadillacs do not leak oil. Some seep at the case half but it is rarely enough to drip to the ground. ANY car will eventually leak oil as it ages - seals dry out, etc. over time. I would say that the Walmart auto centers see the worst of the worst so that may be where your nephew formed his opinion. It would be the same as a Cadillac dealer tech who performes head gasket repairs to say that ALL Cadillacs have bad head gaskets which they do not.

4. I look for a car that is in good shape with mileage that is in the proper range for the year or lower, then drive it. When I bought my '96 SLS it was 4 years old had had 56,000 miles on it. The salesman at the Cadillac dealer let me take it home for the night - that's when I really looked it over. You can also have a car checked at an independant shop for $50-$75.

[Burcham]

Kevin

Thanks for your reply.

1. I know what the ISS is now. I've had the problem on my 94 sls for about the last 130k of it's 250K life. I get confused with all the 3 letter abbreviations, I was under the impression ISS was a new Module system like the PCM. If someone on here told me to DIM my lights, I'd probably be searching for what the heck is a DIM module, Driver Information Module, Digital Imaging Module????

2. Maybe it's just a local store thing??????

3. My 78 seville and 87 fleetwood didn't leak either. I should have been more specific. I was refering the the oil seepage as you said. My 94 was "seeping" not dripping at 113k when I bought it in 01, still seeping the same now at 250k, to me it's not a problem or the PO56 ISS thing. Wish it didn't, but aint going to lose sleep over it.

4. Thanks for the tips.

Thanks

Dave

[Ranger]

DIM = Dash Integration Module