jcobz28 Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 The never ending saga of things wrong with me car... after having just finished a DIY timesert job, then EBTCM replacement, then RSS front left sensor fix (hacked the circuit), I decided to tackle it's one remaining SES code, the Service Transmission - PC0717 - ISS replacment project. I want to shout out a BIG thank-you to BodybyFisher for his extremely detailed post from a few months back when he did this job himself. It has been extremely valuable to me today! I started at 11:30am this morning, and by quiting time tonight at 7:30pm, I was able to reach the 1/2 mark. The ISS sensor is OUT! I feel that's a pretty good speed for a DIY job on jackstands! I tested the sensor once I got it out and confirmed that it is WAY out of spec for resistance. It's reading .650 M-ohms. If my decimal conversions are correct, that's 650,000 ohms. Spec is 1350 - 1950 ohms. So, it is obviously bad. BodybyFisher - One very interesting thing I found when measuring the resistance was, just like you, I could not get a resistance reading from my multimeter in the K-scale. It needed the M-scale. Even though the reading was .650M, and that SHOULD equal 650 on the 200k-scale, it WOULD NOT READ. Very interesting, you and I both had the same thing happen...?? I still need to order my parts. I'd like to get them here by Friday. Anybody know of a good place to order that would likely have them in stock? I don't wanna wait a week for a dealer to get them in, and then another 3 days to ship them to me. Also, BodybyFisher - why were you talking about needing the Julian date off your trans case? Is this needed for placing the order? Like different part # depending upon production date?? A few questions about the bearings inside the trans: When I took the end-plate off, two bearings fell out. It was like just the cover part of the 2 bearings (only ones inside the case, 1 around the output shaft, and one around the shaft that the ISS reads off of). Are these supposed to fall out once the end-plate is removed? Or are they not supposed to separate, and therefore need replacement? If the are supposed to just fall out, for putting things back together, do I just kind of place them where they go, held w/ some vaseline, and then bolt the end-plate back up? About torque-specs. I have gone this far w/ just info from this board. Didn't buy a trans rebuild book. I think I can get everything back together without needing one, except for the torque specs. Can anybody post those? A few fun pics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Try http://www.gmotors.com for the parts. They should be able to tell you if they have them and they ship fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Great job man, I am impressed, glad my thread helped. When I went to order the ISS sensor, they asked me for the Julien date, its on the tag at the rear of the tranny faciing the rear of the car close to the passenger side output shaft. Here is the definition of Julian date: Julian date - 1) Not to be confused with the Julian calendar, a Julian date or day number is the number of elapsed days since the beginning of a cycle of 7,980 years invented by Joseph Scaliger in 1583. The purpose of the system is to make it easy to compute an integer (whole number) difference between one calendar date and another calendar date. The 7,980 year cycle was derived by combining several traditional time cycles (solar, lunar, and a particular Roman tax cycle) for which 7,980 was a common multiple. The starting point for the first Julian cycle began on January 1, 4713 B.C. (Gregorian calendar - expressed in the ISO date format as "-4713-01-01 G") and will end on January 22, 3268 (3268-01-22 G). The following day will begin the first day of the second Julian date period (or 7,980 year cycle). A Julian date or day number for a certain time of day on January 9, 2001, looked like this: 2451919.3423000001348555 meaning 2,451,919 elapsed days since the beginning of the Julian cycle. The ".3423000001348555" represented the time of day ("15:12:54 EST"). If you are scratching your head, SO AM I I think you are talking about two FLAT thrust bearings. Take a CLOSE look at them, they go on the sprocket drive gears, you need to find out how they go back in correctly, which side faces in on the sprocket gear. I WISH I replaced mine, mine were blue but the job was taking so long I just buttoned it up. When you put them back use vaseline to hold them in place, that is what they told me at the dealer. If they look worn at all replace them. I have the tranny service manual, I bought it, I will post all the specs for you tomorrow, Good Luck Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 I circled where the two thrust bearings go on your photo, the only problem is that I am not sure which direction they go, you might just buy new ones and ask how they go, I would NOT want to reverse their direction (face them in when they should face out and effectively reverse their direction) plus their construction is different, not sure if the direction in which they face matters in terms of how they are lubed with tranny fluid. Ask a tranny shop Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Get some sleep that was a Biach of a job...... screwed my knees up With regard to the resistance readings, it was not until I bought a new digital meter that i was able to read the resistance correctly. We have a few electronics guru's that should be albe to help you. JimD was a big, help. I have my ISS sensor on my refrigerator waiting to be sent to JimD, I am just so slow at these things... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 By the way, it looks like your rear sprocket is different than mine. Are the two bearings different sizes?, it appears they are in your photo, mine, where the same size, and we both have 96's. If I understood the parts counter guy correctly, there were two different ISS speed sensors, and the julian date helped them know which one I needed. The tag on my car was bearly readable on my car, as a matter of fact, I removed it to see it better, , I think the FSM if you have it shows the location of the tag, its in the front section of the manual if I recall under the IDENTIFICATION section. You will need to replace the big case seal and the island gasket, the bolts will hold that in place when you put it in, use vaseline on it also. Check your harness for leaking you can replace the harness easily now. Consider replacing the pressure solenoid and the TCC solenoid, but if you remove the upper valve body as I did you will need to replace the spacer gaskets and watch for check balls. Looking back on this job, I had some balls, speaking of balls (especially getting into it and driving it 1000 miles on vacation with my daughter in 100 degree heat when I finished, ). Consider that I also replaced the crossover gaskets, heater pipes, hoses, and throttle body gaskets and oil level sensor I see you are a youngster from your profile, as opposed to me, that job killed me.. I used a feeler gage to set the gap. You can order the axle seal also and replace it, I used a BF four wheel drive axle socket to drive it. Can you believe how many bolts hold the side cover? Cool Vette by the way... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 I need Verizon Fios, these double posts are killing me. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 2, 2007 Report Share Posted December 2, 2007 Ok here are the torque specs, they are in the factory service manual in the TRANNY section. Let me know if you need any help. I can send you my CELL number if you would like if you have something you want to brainstorm. On the torque spec pages the number in the brackets (#) refers to the bolt # on the schematics. I am sure you know you can save these files locally and zoom in on them. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted December 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 Thanks so much man! I plan on tackling this on Friday hopefully. Place the parts order Monday, get them in by Thursday, and take the day off of work on Friday to drink beer and wrench. Sounds like fun. Do I have a sickness? Thanks again! I'll post if I have any questions, but hopefully it's a straight forward reverse procedure. -Jacob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 0.650 MOhm is equal to 650 kOhm which is out of range of 200 kOhm. Someone correct me if I am wrong. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted December 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2007 I got all my new parts in the mail today from Brasington (gmotors.com). I am concerned about the end-plate-to-tranny gasket I received, it looks different than the one that was in the car when I tore it down. I do not know the history of the car, and it is possible that there was work done before and this is an aftermarket gasket, BUT, I would highly doubt it given the state of disrepair of everything else on the car. So, that leaves 2 logical conclusions. 1. GM changed the gasket design. 2. I was sent, or ordered, the wrong part. Would someone who has knowledge on these transmissions please look at these 2 gaskets and tell me what to do? Both gaskets are the SAME in terms of shape, size, etc., just different material. Gasket I pulled out - has raised orange rubbery material outlining the seal: New replacement gasket - flat surface, just sandwiched aluminum, the surface coating is somewhat squishy, but it covers the entire surface uniformly: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 6, 2007 Report Share Posted December 6, 2007 The sandwiched aluminum gasket that you show is the same gasket that I used for my side cover. WHen I removed my side cover it was the same gasket. I think your tranny might be the earlier tranny. Did you need to give them the Julian date? That said, I think you are OK..... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 Something is confusing... The first picture is the timing cover seal/gasket and the second picture is the trans side pan gasket. What did the side cover gasket that was on the car look like? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted December 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 KHE - photos have been changed to correct links. ANOTHER difference I just noticed in the parts I ordered vs. what came out of the car. The ISS sensor is different!! Now I'm almost positive I've wasted a week and need to return these parts for different ones. No way I'm going to risk this new sensor not working and repeating all this work. The old sensor I took out had one circular magnetic signal pickup. The new replacement sensor has two rectangular magnetic pickups. I have no idea whether or not they are interchangeable, and don't want to find out that they aren't the hard way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 My old and new speed sensors were like that also, don't worry about it, I replaced mine and have not seen the code since... If you take your readings on the new one you will see its within range, use a flat feeler gage you will be fine. Keep up the good work and keep asking questions, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted December 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 Man, you are a life saver! If I hadn't heard first hand from you having interchanged these parts successfully before, I would have wasted a week trying to get an old-style one. I need to Fed-Ex you a 6-pack of beer! THANKS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 Glad to be of help, keep the questions coming if I can help... Forget the beer, send money (j/k) Mike hey how did you make out with the thrust bearings? By the way, my guess is that they redesigned this part to stop it from being covered fully with metal filings but that is just a guess, I am sure that magnetically it works the same. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 You two guys are NUTS, but we're proud of you just the same. Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 You got that right! I had my entire neighborhood stunned and thinking I was nuts, that my engine was hanging out. That was the reason I did a wheel stand one day after I did the job, to let them know NEVER to doubt me Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 Jacob, how did this turn out? Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted December 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2007 It turned out perfect! Thanks SO much for all your help. I called in "sick" last Monday to finish off the job. We get 4 sick days a year, and I hadn't used a single one yet, and it's use 'em or lose 'em, so... I figured I would be mentally sick if I didn't complete my ISS repair. I bolted everything back together, filled it with fluids, and took it for a drive, and the ISS code was gone, and trans shifted perfect! I did run into some totally unrelated problems that required fixing though. Totally coincidentally, about 2 miles after finishing the ISS repair, my alternator decided to crap out on me. Started arcing through the housing and making horrible clicking noises. IPC threw a code indicating an open L-circuit on the alternator. I ran through the FSM diagnostics and confirmed that the alternator was toast. Got a new one, bolted it in, and all was good. I also got a code about an open/short on the "Check Engine" light circuit. Used the FSM wiring diagram to track this down to a severely corroded wire going into connector C101 by the drivers shock tower. In fact, that entire connector had a few wires that were so corroded, just by merely separating the connector halves the wires disintegrated in my hands. I ended up re-stripping the wires and putting new pin terminals on them. Then those codes went away. So... as of now... for the first time in 1 year since I purchased this car - NO CODES! It drives perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 16, 2007 Report Share Posted December 16, 2007 Jacob, it sounds like you are doing quite well, having just done the sensor myself, I am impressed with your speed... cool, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted December 16, 2007 Report Share Posted December 16, 2007 That was the reason I did a wheel stand one day after I did the job, to let them know NEVER to doubt me Never a photo when it's really needed. Not to worry; when the Dems come into power everyone will be required to carry a camera . . . Government supplied if necessary. Then we'll see you. Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted December 17, 2007 Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 I thought it was the republicans that were taking away our freedoms I am so sick of the display of lack of conviction our polititians show on a daily basis, it sickens me, we are in deep sh*t, there isn't a man amongst them except Liberman and he's a dem. Polling and interest groups have control of this country, we are facing civil war 2 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted December 17, 2007 Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 I thought it was the republicans that were taking away our freedoms I am so sick of the display of lack of conviction our polititians show on a daily basis, it sickens me, we are in deep sh*t, there isn't a man amongst them except Liberman and he's a dem. Polling and interest groups have control of this country, we are facing civil war 2 Sad There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.