faris_jason Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 I have a 2000 Cadillac DTS. About two weeks ago I thought I felt my transmission jump into second gear. It was a hard jerk compared to the smooth changing of gears as usual. Well it never occured again untill today when I was coming home from visiting the family. Now it occurs on every gear from 0 to 40. When I put it in Reverse it seems to jerk also. What is strange it seemed like when I turned my car off for about 20 minutes it quit for a while. I checked my fluids and there good. I really hope my transmission isn't going out because I can imagine it's going to be a pretty penny! Im going to take it in to get looked at tomorrow but I was hoping to get some advice before I go so I dont get scammed. Please help!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 Check your diagnostic codes to see what tranny code comes up. Go here: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 The transmission iteself is pretty much bulletproof. The electrican connections are less so, particuarly in the rust belt or where road debris damage to the underside may be a problem. The solenoids can also stick or go bad, which is far less expensive to fix than a new, remanufactured or rebuilt transmission. With occasional servicing (at least every 60,000 miles) the clutches often go well over 200,000 miles. One of our regulars here is looking at rebuilding his at 220,000 miles and his signature includes the phrase "Burns rubber." Get the codes and we can help you find the problem if it is the wiring or solenoids. I strongly recommend that you take a day to do this before you let the dealer have it with no visibility into the process. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 Thanks for your help! I am going to take your advice and research it today. I pulled my codes and this is what I got, (ABS C1223 HISTORY, ABS C1224 HISTORY, ABS C1248 HISTORY) (MSM B1327 HISTORY, MSM B1850 CURRENT, MSM1860 CURRENT) (PCM P1122 HISTORY) (IPM B0429 CURRENT, IPM B1004 HISTORY) (IRC V1064 HISTORY, IRC V1016 HISTORY). What sucks is the only code I had last week was IPM b0429 which I was told was no big deal. I bought this car 6 months ago and haven't had any issues. Now Im scared it's falling apart on me all at once! So hopefully one of you caddy genius's can help! I am concerned with all of the codes but I really need to get this tranny problem resolved first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlinde Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 I know very little about the codes on those newer Cadillacs but when I put in my spare PCM (Delco remanufactured for a 1993 ) for testing purposes- I live in Sweden and just wanted to have a working extra computer everything was OK for a couple of months until suddenly the 4T80 shifted real hard. The code was P076 which I cleared and everything was OK for a couple of weeks again when this happened again. P076 says that something is wrong in the transmission but I changed the computer back to the original and the gearbox has never shifted hard again -and that was 2 years ago. With this I mean that maybe a component in the PCM is wrong and it is a lot more inexpensive just to put in another PCM instead of taking the transmission apart. Worth testing maybe. /Jan L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 C1223 - Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1224 - Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1248 - EBCM Turned the Red Brake Warning Indicator On P1122 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage What is you battery voltage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 My batt voltage is good at 14.8. Im not sure what the issue is with the tranny yet? I was recommended a tranny shop in my area. Should I take it there or to a caddy dealer? Time is running out because I really need to get it in the shop. Its my only means of transportation and I need to get it fixed ASAP. Thanks for all the replies once again. Im on stanby waiting for further info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 ABS C1223 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1224 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1248 EBCM Turned the Red Brake Warning Indicator On MSM (memory seat module) B1327 Vehicle system voltage below 9.0 volts B1850 Driver Lumbar Horiz Sensor Circuit Malfunction CURRENT B1860 Driver Lumbar Vert Sensor Circuit Malfunction CURRENT PCM B1122 Driver Deployment Loop Resistance Low (an air bag code) IPM (instrument panel module) B0429 Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance CURRENT B1004 Keep Alive Memory (KAM) (caused by low battery voltage or disconnecting the battery) IRC (integrated radio chassis) U1064 Loss of Communications with DIM (dash integration module) U1016 Loss of Class 2 Communication with PCM When you have a bunch of unrelated codes come up all at once, it's an electrical system problem. The battery voltage is too high at 14.8 Volts, indicating that it's got high resistance and may drop below 9 Volts on starting, or when standing a long time stopped in traffic. One of the codes is for low battery voltage, and another indicates that it dropped low enough to reset the IPM. I would check the battery terminals and clean them, particularly the positive one, and reset the codes. If they come back have the battery load tested. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 Its actually 14.6. But that wouldn't do anything to the tranny would it? I have had my batt tested and it was good. The voltage had been the same since I bought the car 7 months ago. Any ideas on the tranny? Should I take it to a highly recommended tranny shop or a caddy dealer since they deal with caddy's exclusively? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 The transmission acts funny when there is anything wrong with any of the sensors relating to the PCM keeping track of the car. This is because the transmission is operated by the PCM, not by internal hydraulic mechanisms like older automatic transmissions. There are three solenoids in the transmission that are operated by the PCM, two to shift and one to switch on the torque converter viscous clutch (TCC). There is no vacuum modulator or valve body. The sensors used include the vehicle speed sensor, an input shaft speed sensor inside the transmission, the MAP sensor, the TPI sensor, and others, possibly including the rear wheel speed sensors. When any of these sensors is not working properly, transmission operation goes into a default mode that doesn't use that sensor, like the old Hydramatics used in the 1050's, usually with default fail-safe shift points and hard shifting. When a 4T80E shifting acts up, the thing to do is to find the electrical or sensor problem, and/or to change the solenoids. Only if it is slipping with no codes do you look at opening up the transmission past the solenoids. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 well do any of my codes say its electrical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 A good honest trans shop is as good as a dealer. That said, several of those DTC's point to an electrical problem. Have you checked the cables. BTW, your voltage is fine. 14.8 is not too high. I have seen mine run in the low 15's and my DIC says "BATTERY VOLTAGE OK". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 I'm going to weigh in here with a suggestion. Do as the others said & get the battery load tested & clean the connections A.S.A.P. !! It is a known fact that battery problems in these cars will call ALL kinds of different problems! Before you go into a transmission shop or to the Caddy dealer, do the simple (and cheap) things first. 14.6 volts is bumping the high side of what is allowable. That is indicating that there is too much resistance to charging in the battery AND/OR the connections are dirty. The fact that a code was set for low voltage confirms that you have SOME kind of electrical problem! Don't panic, check out the above & you may be OK. I had a battery with a bad cell in my 1994 SLS & it caused ALL kinds of shifting & engine driveability problems. Take Care, Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 I had the load tested but I haven't cleaned the connections. I noticed when I did get the batt checked when I reconnected the batt I heard a clicking somewhere in the front of the car. What is the proper way of disconnecting and reconnecting the batt on this model? Cause every time I reconnect it I swear it jacking with the electrical system! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted November 27, 2007 Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 The correct way to disconnect a battery is to turn the key off and wait about five minutes to let the modules shut down, clear, and go to sleep. Others here with model year 2000 shop manuals may have a different time to wait. Then, disconnect the negative or ground terminal first (this is a safety thing), then the positive terminal. When reconnnecting the battery, connect the positive terminal first. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
navion Posted November 27, 2007 Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 How did the battery test come out? Did they think that the battery was healthy? If the battery is at all marginal, then you should change it. As I said before, these cars are VERY sensitive to battery, voltage and resistance problems. Take Care, Britt Britt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 Well im at work right now. First thing in the morning I will check the connections. They said the batt was good when I got it checked . I will check again tomorrow. Where is the PCM located anyways? I will clean the connections and hopefully that will work! But if I remember right the connections were clean and Im sure it helps being located under the back seat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 27, 2007 Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 The PCM is under the air filter box. Intake air is drawn over it to cool it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 I should check the connections there correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 27, 2007 Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 Not likely the problem, but can't hurt to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 First of all I woulld like to thank everyone for there feedback and helping me out! Well I went out and removed and re-installed my batt connections. Then I cleaned the connections on my batt and relay panels.I then proceeded to clear the codes and none have came back as of yet. Also my car isnt having anymore shifting issue's as of yet. The connections were clean and my batt voltage is still at 14.8. Do you think this is an intermittent problem and will come back? It was bad for 6hrs straight on my way back from Cleveland. I just find it hard to believe that fixed my problem. I guess I will ride it till I get another code or it starts acting up on me again. Do you think I should wait till that happens or take it to get looked at now anyways? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 27, 2007 Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 That batt voltage is way high, did you have the battery load tested? If not do so, that high charge rate will mess up your alternator. Get it tested, it does not sound right Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faris_jason Posted November 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 I did and they said it was good. My voltage is 14.8 while its running should I check it with just the key in the ignition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 27, 2007 Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 I did and they said it was good. My voltage is 14.8 while its running should I check it with just the key in the ignition? Who tested it and how did they do it? A battery charger is typically used that has a load test feature that SHORTS the terminals and watches for voltage drop, if it drops too low its an indication of a bad cell or an internal short. No, I just feel that 14.8 is too high. Is that right after starting? Does it drop? What does it read after a 30 minute trip on the highway? Are you running any audio amps? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 27, 2007 Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 Why does everyone keep saying that 14.8v is high? Both my daughters '02 SLS and my '03 DHS run in the low 15's. DIC says BATTERY VOLTAGE 15.2 VOLTS OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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