faris_jason Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 I have a 2000 DTS. Tomorrow I bringing it in to do some routine maintenance. I swear I read on this forum not to flush the system, that I should only drain it and replace the fluid? Also im getting my breaks looked at fo excessice shaking when I brake. Im hoping I can just turn the rotors. Any advice so the mechanic don't hustle me? And If I do have to get all new pads, rotors and etc whats an avg price I can expect to pay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 You heard it right DO NOT FLUSH, just drain and fill. Make sure the Brake person grinds the back of the rotor and front of hub. A clean mating surface is very important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiz6728 Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I have a 2000 DTS. Tomorrow I bringing it in to do some routine maintenance. I swear I read on this forum not to flush the system, that I should only drain it and replace the fluid? Also im getting my breaks looked at fo excessice shaking when I brake. Im hoping I can just turn the rotors. Any advice so the mechanic don't hustle me? And If I do have to get all new pads, rotors and etc whats an avg price I can expect to pay? me being a mechanic i would replace the rotors with the pads im not a really big fan of cutting rotors especailly if you said it was already pulsating. also i would get a good pads not the cheapest. i dont know your mechanic labor rate but i work @ meineke & for frt pads & rotors probly around 300 to 350 w/ceramic pads just a guestament. make sure he service & lube your slides.oh also i would just change fluid & filter i wouldn't flush it Wiz DRIVE IT LIKE YOU own it!!!!!! 1967 chevy II ( FOR SALE!!!!) 1995 Lexus Es 300 1998 SLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthstarAJ Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I have a 2000 DTS. Tomorrow I bringing it in to do some routine maintenance. I swear I read on this forum not to flush the system, that I should only drain it and replace the fluid? Also im getting my breaks looked at fo excessice shaking when I brake. Im hoping I can just turn the rotors. Any advice so the mechanic don't hustle me? And If I do have to get all new pads, rotors and etc whats an avg price I can expect to pay? Change the fluid. Exchange is the way to go. I can provide the documents from GM. The fluid Oxidizes and breaks down. If your filter is restricted YOU NEED A TRANS! 12.58 second Northstar with a GM/Cadillac PCM Cadillac Technician @ Crest Cadillac Brookfield WI Hometown Washougal WA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I have a 2000 DTS. Tomorrow I bringing it in to do some routine maintenance. I swear I read on this forum not to flush the system, that I should only drain it and replace the fluid? Also im getting my breaks looked at fo excessice shaking when I brake. Im hoping I can just turn the rotors. Any advice so the mechanic don't hustle me? And If I do have to get all new pads, rotors and etc whats an avg price I can expect to pay? me being a mechanic i would replace the rotors with the pads im not a really big fan of cutting rotors especailly if you said it was already pulsating. also i would get a good pads not the cheapest. i dont know your mechanic labor rate but i work @ meineke & for frt pads & rotors probly around 300 to 350 w/ceramic pads just a guestament. make sure he service & lube your slides.oh also i would just change fluid & filter i wouldn't flush it That said, let me ask you a question. I am chasing a brake pulsing. I have resurfaced them and while that helps the pulsing is never fully gone. It is coming from my front right. I had gotten to the point where I have concluded that the design of my calipers is flawed. I personally don't like the two bushings in the front and have wondered if they contribute to the pulsing problem. My conclusion is due to others here who have chased pulsing problems. It really bugs me. I have replaced the bushings and replaced the hub bearings, use a torque wrench to torque the wheel, grease the sliders and resurfaced the rotors, and even used a different shop to resurface them, in case their lathe is wacked and I still get a low frequency pulse, you can feel it in your seat, its deep. What has happened in the past is that it eventually gets worse and worse to the point where they vibrate my back teeth out. I am a fanatic and this still happens. Is it is possible that a rotor can have a problem that can not fully be taken out by a cut do you think? By the way, I am a big fan of cutting rotors, maybe these light weight rotors can bend and a cut does not fix them.... If thats the case, this will be another instance of having to relearn everything over again...Historically I always cut rotors right down to the limit without problems, maybe this lightweight rotors are not as hearty... I would LOVE to get rid of this pulsing... Oh let me complicate this for you, I have two sets of rotors, it happens EXACTLY the same on both sets of rotors, go fn figure....the last time I changed my pads the pads were badly overheated and cracked and the rotors were blue. I need to bleed my rears, maybe my front is doing all the work when it usually does only 75% of the work, because I have air in the rear system...what do you think of that theory" Has anyone ever had this happen where a new rotor solved the problem and a cut didnt fully solve the problem? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Resurfacing has always worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I have a 2000 DTS. Tomorrow I bringing it in to do some routine maintenance. I swear I read on this forum not to flush the system, that I should only drain it and replace the fluid? Also im getting my breaks looked at fo excessice shaking when I brake. Im hoping I can just turn the rotors. Any advice so the mechanic don't hustle me? And If I do have to get all new pads, rotors and etc whats an avg price I can expect to pay? Change the fluid. Exchange is the way to go. I can provide the documents from GM. The fluid Oxidizes and breaks down. If your filter is restricted YOU NEED A TRANS! When you say exchange, do you mean a flushing machine? We are not big fans of that, if that is what you mean as you can see above. That is a great way to ingest someones clutch material, we see a lot of trannys go funky after a flush. The Northstar is so each to pump the old fluid out, its easier than changing your oil if you are interested we can provide a link, but keep in mind that the fluid is good for 100K miles. What can you provide document from GM on? Heat is a tranny fluids worst enemy, the tranny oil life monitor in the northstar pays close attention to fluid temperature. I would not be surprised if most tranny oil life monitors read 95 to 100%. Unless the fluid badly overheats from hilly conditions or pulling a trailer its good for 100,000 miles. Here is an interesting message, notice 291 degrees for 32 seconds? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 There is resurfacing and then there is resurfacing when it comes to brake rotors. Find an independent shop that has the lathe required to perform a "non-directional" cut on your rotors and you might be happier with the results. Let your fingers do the walking to find the necessary machine shop equipment. The Autozone/Advance Auto/Pep Boys type places typically do not have the equipment required to do a non-directional cut. And -- "cold" rotors can be expected to shake just a little bit. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Resurfacing has always worked for me. Me too, but I think you and I are in the same peer group, Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 There is resurfacing and then there is resurfacing when it comes to brake rotors. Find an independent shop that has the lathe required to perform a "non-directional" cut on your rotors and you might be happier with the results. Let your fingers do the walking to find the necessary machine shop equipment. The Autozone/Advance Auto/Pep Boys type places typically do not have the equipment required to do a non-directional cut. And -- "cold" rotors can be expected to shake just a little bit. I stay away from chain places and use machine shops. I will look into the non directional cut and seek out a shop that has state of the art equipment, I cant help but think that some of these lathes are out of kilter. Thanks Jim Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I have a 2000 DTS. Tomorrow I bringing it in to do some routine maintenance. I swear I read on this forum not to flush the system, that I should only drain it and replace the fluid? Also im getting my breaks looked at fo excessice shaking when I brake. Im hoping I can just turn the rotors. Any advice so the mechanic don't hustle me? And If I do have to get all new pads, rotors and etc whats an avg price I can expect to pay? To swerve back to the original post.... Why do you feel that a "Transmission flush" is a required routine maintenance item? Do you have a message on the DIC telling you to service the transmission fluid? Typically, the transmission fluid will be good for the service life of the car (or at least 100,000 miles). I would not permit/allow a transmission fluid "flush" on my vehicle unless I was the person controlling what goes into the flushing machine and therefore into my transmission. Brake shake can be traced to several easily corrected minor situations. Most of which do not require any new parts. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I do not think there is such a thing as a non directional cut. A lathe can only cut one way. I think after they are cut, they use an orbital sander to put a non directional finish on the surface. It is pretty obvious when you see it if it has been done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I have a 2000 DTS. Tomorrow I bringing it in to do some routine maintenance. I swear I read on this forum not to flush the system, that I should only drain it and replace the fluid? Also im getting my breaks looked at fo excessice shaking when I brake. Im hoping I can just turn the rotors. Any advice so the mechanic don't hustle me? And If I do have to get all new pads, rotors and etc whats an avg price I can expect to pay? Change the fluid. Exchange is the way to go. I can provide the documents from GM. The fluid Oxidizes and breaks down. If your filter is restricted YOU NEED A TRANS! Flushing/fluid exchange is not recommended nor is is mentioned in the owner's manual or the factory service manuals. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted tcb Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Rotors are so cheap for these cars, I've always just replaced them. My 99 and 97 STS' both had rotor pulsations, and cheap, off brand rotors matched to good pads totally eliminated any shudder, and stayed that way. My mechanic tells me that the cost of the cutting blade (they wear out), coupled with the cost of putting one of his mechanics on the machine, means that cutting/turning will cost me about $15 per wheel. My rotors ran about $30 each, so it's always made sense to pop on new rotors and have no fear of a thinning rotor starting up with pulsations. Just my .2cents. 1989 FWD Fleetwood, Silver 1995 STS Crimson Pearl on Black leather 1997 STS Diamond White 1999 STS Crimson Pearl 2001 STS Silver 2003 STS, Crimson Pearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiz6728 Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I have a 2000 DTS. Tomorrow I bringing it in to do some routine maintenance. I swear I read on this forum not to flush the system, that I should only drain it and replace the fluid? Also im getting my breaks looked at fo excessice shaking when I brake. Im hoping I can just turn the rotors. Any advice so the mechanic don't hustle me? And If I do have to get all new pads, rotors and etc whats an avg price I can expect to pay? me being a mechanic i would replace the rotors with the pads im not a really big fan of cutting rotors especailly if you said it was already pulsating. also i would get a good pads not the cheapest. i dont know your mechanic labor rate but i work @ meineke & for frt pads & rotors probly around 300 to 350 w/ceramic pads just a guestament. make sure he service & lube your slides.oh also i would just change fluid & filter i wouldn't flush it That said, let me ask you a question. I am chasing a brake pulsing. I have resurfaced them and while that helps the pulsing is never fully gone. It is coming from my front right. I had gotten to the point where I have concluded that the design of my calipers is flawed. I personally don't like the two bushings in the front and have wondered if they contribute to the pulsing problem. My conclusion is due to others here who have chased pulsing problems. It really bugs me. I have replaced the bushings and replaced the hub bearings, use a torque wrench to torque the wheel, grease the sliders and resurfaced the rotors, and even used a different shop to resurface them, in case their lathe is wacked and I still get a low frequency pulse, you can feel it in your seat, its deep. What has happened in the past is that it eventually gets worse and worse to the point where they vibrate my back teeth out. I am a fanatic and this still happens. Is it is possible that a rotor can have a problem that can not fully be taken out by a cut do you think? By the way, I am a big fan of cutting rotors, maybe these light weight rotors can bend and a cut does not fix them.... If thats the case, this will be another instance of having to relearn everything over again...Historically I always cut rotors right down to the limit without problems, maybe this lightweight rotors are not as hearty... I would LOVE to get rid of this pulsing... Oh let me complicate this for you, I have two sets of rotors, it happens EXACTLY the same on both sets of rotors, go fn figure....the last time I changed my pads the pads were badly overheated and cracked and the rotors were blue. I need to bleed my rears, maybe my front is doing all the work when it usually does only 75% of the work, because I have air in the rear system...what do you think of that theory" Has anyone ever had this happen where a new rotor solved the problem and a cut didnt fully solve the problem? well first i would check the frt end tierods,ball joints & wheel bearings.if ok i would change the rotors these new rotors r basically throw aways occasionaly you can get 1 cut out of them but if there blue from heat a cut will never work or if their pitted in the back.compress the piston on the caliper before you take it off it should slide freely.if not take the slides & rubber boots out & hone the bore to get the rust out u can use the old parts over just clean them & lube. make sure hub is rust free it will cause a pulsesation if theres rust. if u have rear drums make sure everything working & adjusted. also if you ever changed your rear shoe with out cutting the drums that could be your prob let me know if i help or u need more info Wiz DRIVE IT LIKE YOU own it!!!!!! 1967 chevy II ( FOR SALE!!!!) 1995 Lexus Es 300 1998 SLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Its funny, I did exactly that when I changed my bushings, behind them was a buildup of rust, amazing, I wired brushed it out. I have photos of it and a thread on it. I have replaced everything (and I mean everything) except for tie rods, but I can drive high speeds with no shimmy or vibration at all, its smooth as glass. I think I will buy new rotors. I just did my rear brakes and had the rotors cut, its disks. Believe me I have tried everything, its been frustrating. Even use a torque wrench, OEM parts. No play in the steering linkage, replaced ball joints, lower control arm bushings, struts, springs, sturt mounts, hub bearings, stabiliber bar bushings, ball joints, strut rod bushings and caliper bushings. Not in trying to fix this problem but because the parts were worn out, but its frustration that with replacing the front end, I still have ANY FN problems! She rides like GLASS, until I brake..then its a deep thunder. I think I need to buy rotors to test this out..hmm an excuse to buy drilled rotors. Thanks Oh, I have not replaced my stabilizer links either, and I think that side is bad, I am glad I think of all the repairs as a NEW car payment.. Its definately a hobby I took her to Cape May, NJ last week and arrived at 5:30 AM driving on clear empty highways at 74 mph (speed limit 65) in cold air, I opened her up to 100 a few times, she flies I am sorry to have taken this thread off track, we got here because of the brakes and resurfacing rotors... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted November 12, 2007 Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 Myabe it's just me, but machining rotors has never worked out for me... if it cures the pulsing, it's for such a short time, it's hardly worth it. Doing it myself saves so much money, I can buy new rotors every time, and there's no pulsing.... Just my 2 cents... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted November 12, 2007 Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 Myabe it's just me, but machining rotors has never worked out for me... if it cures the pulsing, it's for such a short time, it's hardly worth it. Doing it myself saves so much money, I can buy new rotors every time, and there's no pulsing.... Just my 2 cents... I do think its time for me to buy new rotors, I went to rockauto and Raybestos has them cheap. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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