bigd Posted April 24, 2004 Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 Wanted to start off and say thanks for the support from this great group! My 1997 sls has had a problem with starting only when cold, usually first thing in the morning. Ran on-board diagnostics and it comes up clean. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willie Hank Posted April 24, 2004 Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 Wow, that could be a lot of things. I would start out by cleaning the battery lugs and grounding block. If that doesn't help, I would use try to jump it with another car to see if it might be your battery. If it'll start by jumping, but not by your battery, give your battery a full charge and have it load tested (most parts houses will do this free). If the battery is good, but you needed a jump to turn it over, then start looking at the alternator. I saw a post recently where someone suggested using the display with the key on and car off, to check voltage and then checking the voltage with the car running. If the voltage is not up around +13.6V when running, maybe your alternator is bad. Most shops can check this, as well. If the voltage is much below +12V with the key on and car off, you may have a bad battery. If your charging system checks good, start looking at the starter. Mine went bad after 167K miles, but it checked good at the starter shop because they did not repeatedly start and stop it. It would fail after about four or five starts, or when it warmed up. That is not to say yours may act differently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd Posted April 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 thanks for the reply, I guess I should have said it just cranks over (and it cranks over fine) but adter about the 4th or 5th time it will try to start....kind of like the fuel or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOOB Posted April 24, 2004 Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 I am experiencing that same problem with my 93 STS. Guru told me in aprevious post that I should first look at my fuel pressure regulator because it could be causing a "rich" mix in the manifold(still haven't checked it yet). What I do when starting is instead of turning the key three or four times, if it doesn't start during the first attempt after about two or three seconds, I immediately press the gas pedal to the floor (flooded start) and it starts right on up. I need to get in there and check it out before I cause another problem doing this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd Posted April 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 anyone know where the fuel pressure regulator is located on a 1997 seville? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOOB Posted April 24, 2004 Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 Below is the reply from Guru on my post from two weeks ago. I would assume that it is in the same area although I believe your cover is slightly different than mine. "Sounds like it backfired into the intake and the top cover vented the pressure...as it is designed to do. Usually something that creates a rich mixture in the intake manifold during the shutdown and soak period will cause a backfire like you describe. That thing might be the fuel pressure regulator. In a 93 it is under the top cover of the intake..actually inside the intake manifold. You have to take the perimeter row of screws out of the silver top cover (leave the 4 inner, recessed bolts in place) and lift off the top cover. The fuel pressure regulator is at the end by the throttle body. You will see a vacuum nipple on the regulator but no vacuum line/hose since it is inside the manifold. Turn on the key with the cover off to pressurize the fuel system and watch the vacuum nipple for signs of fuel leakage...there should be none. Do NOT start the engine or crank with the cover off...just turn on the key to energize the fuel pump to do the check. Really, with that many miles and that age I would just get a replacement FPR and change it while you are in there. It is getting to be a normal high mileage/10 year maintenance item seems like...LOL. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 24, 2004 Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 The '97 is different than the '93 in the previous response. The '97 is not inside the manifold but outside on the right bank fuel rail (firewall side). You will need to remove the silver "beauty cover" to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd Posted April 24, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2004 "thanks to all.....found it, replaced it, now wait 8 hours and see what happens" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac STS Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 i too am having problems starting my car in the mornings...i have to crank it for about 5 seconds for it just to start...and even then it sounds weak.if that makes sense? if it is the regulator how does it cost to replace and is it a easy DIY ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 i too am having problems starting my car in the mornings...i have to crank it for about 5 seconds for it just to start...and even then it sounds weak.if that makes sense? if it is the regulator how does it cost to replace and is it a easy DIY ?? Don't know about cost as I have never had to do one.... yet but I seem to recall less than $100. From the discription of it, it should be WAY less. Find the FPR on the fuel rail and pull the vacuum hose with the engine running or engine off and the key on to pressurize the fuel system and look for fuel leaking from the nipple on the FPR. If it's leaking it needs to be replaced. Cadillac STS, weren't you the guy who never even changed oil and just did a shift solenoid job? If so you can do a FPR. Definately easier than shift solenoids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd Posted April 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 The cost of the fuel pressure regulator was 68.00 list price at the dealership. Alot of money for the 1" X 1" unit. I will be able to tell if this worked tomorrow morning when I start the car..(fingers crossed). The installation of the fuel pressure regulator took about 5 minutes at the most. On the 1997 seville it is located on the fuel rail closest to the firewall, drivers side end. (after silver engine cover is removed) My fuel pressure regulator was supplied with 2 keepers, 1 was like the original one that I removed and the other keeper is a snap-ring. The snap ring is discarded and not used. The fuel pressure regulator is used in more than one general motors application, and other applications use the snap ring. I will repost if this solves the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 25, 2004 Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 Why wait til tomorrow? Why not test it right after the fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd Posted April 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2004 The only time my car is hard to start is after sitting for more than 8 hours. Normally fires right up. Was thinking fuel pressure loss over an extended period of time. Went and started this morning (sunday) and after the 3rd crank, fired, ran a little rough, but fired. Definately the best it has been in a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd Posted April 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2004 Thanks, Guru....I suppose the fuel pump is in the tank on this beast. I am also sure that you may the time for R&R (not rest and relaxation)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 Thanks, Guru....I suppose the fuel pump is in the tank on this beast. I am also sure that you may the time for R&R (not rest and relaxation)? Yes, the fuel pump is in the tank. They are all in the tank after fuel injection became the norm. "Rest & relaxation" those days are gone. None of that involved in this type of R&R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 29, 2004 Report Share Posted April 29, 2004 I would test the fuel pressure when the symptom occurs to be positive that it was the fuel pump before dropping the tank. It's not that bad of a job. The hardest part is removing the fuel filler and vent hoses from the tank. You want to have the tank nearly empty as well. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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