ted tcb Posted August 29, 2007 Report Share Posted August 29, 2007 So I dropped the car off on Monday to have the intermediate steering shaft greased. Basically, they remove the steering shaft, displace the old grease, and using a syringe, fill up the shaft with new grease, and reassemble. They brace the steering wheel, in order to avoid setting off any SRS warnings. My symptoms were a popping sound when I turned the wheel at slow speeds, and some creaking sensations through the gas and brake pedals. The cost was 1 hr labour, plus $20 for the kit, so about $105 plus tax. The car now steers like a Cadillac should, so I'm please with the results. I'll update this post in the winter, and let everyone know if the fix survives cold arctic blasts. 1989 FWD Fleetwood, Silver 1995 STS Crimson Pearl on Black leather 1997 STS Diamond White 1999 STS Crimson Pearl 2001 STS Silver 2003 STS, Crimson Pearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rickster Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 So I dropped the car off on Monday to have the intermediate steering shaft greased. Basically, they remove the steering shaft, displace the old grease, and using a syringe, fill up the shaft with new grease, and reassemble. They brace the steering wheel, in order to avoid setting off any SRS warnings. My symptoms were a popping sound when I turned the wheel at slow speeds, and some creaking sensations through the gas and brake pedals. The cost was 1 hr labour, plus $20 for the kit, so about $105 plus tax. The car now steers like a Cadillac should, so I'm please with the results. I'll update this post in the winter, and let everyone know if the fix survives cold arctic blasts. I did have mine greased a few years back. It was an incredible differance. About 6 months later, rattle back. Then had the shaft repalced. was good again for about 6 months. Rattle back. Still living with it. Thinking about greaseing it myself. I hope yours last longer than mine did. Rick 2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted tcb Posted September 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 Although I'm a super low klm driver, I am a little concerned about the extemely cold weather fronts we experience up here every year. Wait and see, I guess. But, for now, this is the smoothest, quietest STS I've ever driven in, so I'm enjoying the moment. 1989 FWD Fleetwood, Silver 1995 STS Crimson Pearl on Black leather 1997 STS Diamond White 1999 STS Crimson Pearl 2001 STS Silver 2003 STS, Crimson Pearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbnsueb@sbcglobal.net Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 this noise in the steering plagues the chevy/gmc pickups. greasing is only temporary. GM finally has a new design shaft to fix the problem. Re: Intermediate Shaft Here`s some reading for you http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=265506 Bob B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 Bob your link is dead... But you are right... Unless things have changed again... The correct procedure is to replace the shaft. My 02 Got a new shaft in late 2004 and has been fine since. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 I'm bringing back a post from the dead... But there is some new info... Sometime in late 2006 early 2007 GM introduced yet another intermediate shaft for Seville's, Bonnie's and auroras. Its part # 26068295 I'll post pictures but it is a MUCH improved part from the one that it replaces. It has a rubber "cushion" and the double D shape of the shaft almost doubles the friction surface. Replacing this shaft IS a DIY project, I did mine in little more then 60 minutes... But this project is not easy... The spaces under the car are TIGHT and awkward. My first shaft lasted 2 years... (2002-2004) The second shaft lasted 4 years (2004-2008). I'll sell the car before this shaft goes (Famous last words) Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95SevilleSLS Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 I'm bringing back a post from the dead... But there is some new info... Sometime in late 2006 early 2007 GM introduced yet another intermediate shaft for Seville's, Bonnie's and auroras. Its part # 26068295 I'll post pictures but it is a MUCH improved part from the one that it replaces. It has a rubber "cushion" and the double D shape of the shaft almost doubles the friction surface. Replacing this shaft IS a DIY project, I did mine in little more then 60 minutes... But this project is not easy... The spaces under the car are TIGHT and awkward. My first shaft lasted 2 years... (2002-2004) The second shaft lasted 4 years (2004-2008). I'll sell the car before this shaft goes (Famous last words) Mine is making the clunk and I had it greased a while ago. Do you have any tips for replacing it? I can't seem to find the lower end of the steering shaft to remove it. -Dusty- - 02 Seville STS, white diamond - 93 Sixty Special, Tan with vinyl top - 79 Coupe DeVille, Tan with Tan top - 06 GMC Sierra Z71, Black - 92 Silverado C1500, black and grey - 83 Chevy K10 Silverado, Black and Grey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OynxSTS Posted April 7, 2008 Report Share Posted April 7, 2008 Sure, as with anything the first time is a little more challenging... next time I ever do this, I could do it in 45 minutes easy 1) Raise the car on jack stands and remove driver wheel 2) Remove the SIR fuse 3) Remove the steering column 3.1) I used a bungee cord and a rolled up chunk of news paper to "bind" the steering wheel in place... It can move... It just can't turn around loosely 3.2) You will need a #2 Philips screw driver, a 10mm socket, a 13mm socket, a 13mm spanner, a hair dryer and lots of extensions 3.3) remove the black plastic kick panel (unplug the light in it, small blue connector) 3.4) Remove the lower "crotch" vent cover (it just unsnaps) and vent pipe (another Philips screw) 3.5) Remove the lower "knee" plate (4 10mm bolts) 3.6) With the hair dryer warm up the vinyl boot at the bottom of the shaft.. It gets SOFT (THIS IS THE first trick) If your doing this on a hot day you don't need the hair dryer 3.7) Push the boot down. just inside the boot is a hard plastic collar, with three tabs, it is snapped on near the steering wheel position sensor.. Unsnap it and push it into the boot... 3.8) This will reveal the pinch bolt and nut at the bottom of the steering column, remove the nut (13mm) and push the bolt out... This is the hard part.. the boot and hard (sharp) plastic collar are in the way and everything is really slippery. With the steering wheel straight the nut will be at the 2-3 o'clock position 3.9) unplug the steering wheel position sensor (white, at the bottom) the airbag connector (yellow with a red safety tab) the main steering connector (big square thing with a swing latch clipped near the e-brake) and the green connector mid way up the column that provides power to the power tilt/telescope. 3.10) remove the 4 13mm nuts that hold in the column and its free, the one closest to the e-brake will need a spanner, the rest use your socket 4) Under the car push up on the vinyl boot where it connects to the steering rack (again, tight quarters) 5) The bolt will be at the 9 o'clock position and will be accessible with an 11mm socket and a long extension from the wheel well 6) remove the bottom of the I shaft from the steering rack, you might need to pry on it a little with a long flat head screw driver.. mine came off really easy. 7) Back inside the car remove the I-shaft, just pull and wiggle... it comes up easy. 8) apply a small blob of white Grease on the bottom connector of the new I shaft (this is trick #2) DO NOT DISTURB the green factory grease on the middle of the shaft. 9) Feed the shaft in from inside the car 10) attach the bottom (this took me a few tries, I could not get it on "dry" the grease made it easy) install 11mm bolt, tighten, push the bottom boot back down to the steering rack 11) Install the steering column by doing step 3 backwards. 12) Install driver wheel, lower car, 13) enjoy. having a helper with you in the car to support the steering column is also a good idea, you will be upside down to get to the bolts that hold it in... It is HEAVY... My 9 year old daughter sat on the seat and held it up... OK its not that heavy... but this is all awkward. Easin' down the highway in a new Cadillac, I had a fine fox in front, I had three more in the back ZZTOP, I'm Bad I'm Nationwide Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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