Engine Die's

[Marcus815]

Thanks Mike. I'll try and locate the bugger and either replace it or figure out something else.

Unfortunately, a new problem just arouse less than an hour ago. It seems like there's something wrong with the transmission, at least that's what it seems like. It's like this...instead of the RPM's being at a normal point when I depress the gas pedal normally, they are unusually high. The engine revs and sounds very loud, just like when you are driving a stick and clutch and you don't shift properly and the RPM's shoot up really high and the engine sounds really loud. So, I think the transmission isn't working properly, and I gather that a new tranny is expensive.

[PAUL T]

Thanks Mike. I'll try and locate the bugger and either replace it or figure out something else.

Unfortunately, a new problem just arouse less than an hour ago. It seems like there's something wrong with the transmission, at least that's what it seems like. It's like this...instead of the RPM's being at a normal point when I depress the gas pedal normally, they are unusually high. The engine revs and sounds very loud, just like when you are driving a stick and clutch and you don't shift properly and the RPM's shoot up really high and the engine sounds really loud. So, I think the transmission isn't working properly, and I gather that a new tranny is expensive.

Check your transmission fluid level.

[Marcus815]

Thanks Mike. I'll try and locate the bugger and either replace it or figure out something else.

Unfortunately, a new problem just arouse less than an hour ago. It seems like there's something wrong with the transmission, at least that's what it seems like. It's like this...instead of the RPM's being at a normal point when I depress the gas pedal normally, they are unusually high. The engine revs and sounds very loud, just like when you are driving a stick and clutch and you don't shift properly and the RPM's shoot up really high and the engine sounds really loud. So, I think the transmission isn't working properly, and I gather that a new tranny is expensive.

Check your transmission fluid level.

I see the little cover under the hood, but how do I check the level?

[PAUL T]

Thanks Mike. I'll try and locate the bugger and either replace it or figure out something else.

Unfortunately, a new problem just arouse less than an hour ago. It seems like there's something wrong with the transmission, at least that's what it seems like. It's like this...instead of the RPM's being at a normal point when I depress the gas pedal normally, they are unusually high. The engine revs and sounds very loud, just like when you are driving a stick and clutch and you don't shift properly and the RPM's shoot up really high and the engine sounds really loud. So, I think the transmission isn't working properly, and I gather that a new tranny is expensive.

Check your transmission fluid level.

I see the little cover under the hood, but how do I check the level?

Start and operate the car for about 15 minutes. Put the vehicle in Park on a level surface. Holding the brake run the transmission through all the gears while the engine is idling. Move the selector back to Park and check the fluid level on the dipstick. The color should be red. If it is light brown, or has a burnt smell, it is time for a change.

[Marcus815]

I'm sorry, I know this is going to sound dumb, but what do you mean by "holding the brake and running it through all the gears"? Do you mean that I hold down the brake and floor it (I don't think so, haha) or that I hold the brake and drop it from Drive to 3rd, then to 2nd then to 1st, or maybe I am missing it altogether. Once again, I appreciate the help.

I checked the Transmission Dipstick yesterday and it was definately more brown than it was red, and it was up to the little line where it said "1 Pint or .5L". Can I buy Transmission fluid at the auto store or do only mechanics have access to it? Can I properly fill the car with transmission fluid without damaging it?

[adallak]

I'm sorry, I know this is going to sound dumb, but what do you mean by "holding the brake and running it through all the gears"? Do you mean that I hold down the brake and floor it (I don't think so, haha) or that I hold the brake and drop it from Drive to 3rd, then to 2nd then to 1st, or maybe I am missing it altogether. Once again, I appreciate the help.

I checked the Transmission Dipstick yesterday and it was definately more brown than it was red, and it was up to the little line where it said "1 Pint or .5L". Can I buy Transmission fluid at the auto store or do only mechanics have access to it? Can I properly fill the car with transmission fluid without damaging it?

If you took the measurement when engine was hot, your ATF (automatic transmisson fluid wich is DEXRON 3 for your car, and you can buy it even at Wal-Mart) was low some 1pt or 0.5 liter. Probably you have leaks.

Does the ATF smell burnt? If so, you need to replace ATF and filter. It's a messy work, you probably better to ask some trusted mechanic to do that for you.

If you do not press brake pedal FIRMLY the car will move while you are going through gears.

[BodybyFisher]

Yes he means put it in gear, hold the brake and put it in each manual gear.

Brown fluid does not indicate that the fluid is necessarily bad. Smell it, does it smell burnt? If its registering on the stick, you are not seriously low and YES you can buy DEXRON III anywhere Pep Boys, Walmart, service stations, etc, but make sure its DEXRON III. When the car is warm/hot check the fluid, don't overfill it..

[Ranger]

Just an F.Y.I. Dexron III has been superseded by Dexron VI. You can use VI if III is not available.

[BodybyFisher]

Just an F.Y.I. Dexron III has been superseded by Dexron VI. You can use VI if III is not available.

True, but try to find III, VI is $5.99 a quart

[Marcus815]

I did what you guys recommended. The Dipstick was very hot, but I managed to handle it. Nothing looked out of the ordinary, but what the hell do I know, I don't know what the ordinary looks like, haha. I asked around and the general concensus from some friends who do things with cars said I ought to drain it and fill it up again. How do I drain the Transmission fluid, that's my question?

[PAUL T]

Go to the local auto supply store and see if there is a kit for changing the fluid. It usually includes a gasket and filter. You have to take the bottom pan off the transmission. it is very messy. I would take it to a REPUTABLE transmission shop and let them do it. Do not let them "flush" the transmission, this usually causes transmission problems. Just drain it, change the filter, and refill.

[Marcus815]

There have been more problems recently. Tire thread is gone, Oil light is on, Engine dies more often and the transmission must have a serious problem because barely touching the gas causes it to go over 5,000 RPM and it sounds like a McLaren F1. I'm over my head with this so I'm taking it to the Cadillac repair shop hoping for the best. Thank you all for the help and input, I'm certain there will be more problems with it. If anyone has a computer question please don't hesitate to ask, that's one department I can help you in, haha.

[PAUL T]

There have been more problems recently. Tire thread is gone, Oil light is on, Engine dies more often and the transmission must have a serious problem because barely touching the gas causes it to go over 5,000 RPM and it sounds like a McLaren F1. I'm over my head with this so I'm taking it to the Cadillac repair shop hoping for the best. Thank you all for the help and input, I'm certain there will be more problems with it. If anyone has a computer question please don't hesitate to ask, that's one department I can help you in, haha.

If I were a fortune teller I will say that there will be a great draining of your wallet. Dealer is going to tell you that you need a transmission rebuild and at least a fuel pump and possibly a new ECM. I would say the dealer will quote a price of at least $2,500. How much does everyone else predict?

[BodybyFisher]

I doubt they will touch a 93. But tranny rebuilds are in the $2200 to $2500 range alone.

[Bruce Nunnally]

No harm in getting the diagnosis. When my 96 STS needed a transmission rebuild it was $2,500 or so as I recall.

Paul is unfortunately correct that often instead of doing a detailed diagnosis on a transmission problem, shops will throw up their hands and recommend a rebuild for older cars. Although it is easy to assign the motive as they want to make more profits, it can be more complex than this. If they fix one component of an otherwise aged transmission, then the transmission has some other problem in 3 or 6 months, the owner is likely to feel it is due to an improper repair rather than normal transmission life. So for the shop, a complete rebuild prevents bring-backs.

[coolnesss]

There have been more problems recently. Tire thread is gone, Oil light is on, Engine dies more often and the transmission must have a serious problem because barely touching the gas causes it to go over 5,000 RPM and it sounds like a McLaren F1. I'm over my head with this so I'm taking it to the Cadillac repair shop hoping for the best. Thank you all for the help and input, I'm certain there will be more problems with it. If anyone has a computer question please don't hesitate to ask, that's one department I can help you in, haha.

If the Oil light is on, check the oil on the dipstick immediately; its probably low, and running with low oil will wreck the engine eventually. Bring the level back up to the correct amount, using 10-30 regular oil. If it hasn't been changed recently, consider changing it.

Sometimes, changing the transmission fluid and filter will help the transmission problem. Sometimes you need a rebuilt trans. But, changing the fluid is worth a try - should cost less than 75 bucks or so. If it doesn't work, then, you need to question the reality of spending that much dough on a '93 - which will depend on what kind of condition the rest of the car is in and things like that. Could be a good investment, could be a waste of money.

The idea of going to a Cadillac dealer needs re-thinking. They specialize in getting the most $ from your pocket, rather than actually fixing the car. Get out your address book, and start with A and go to Z; check with your friends and acquaintances, ALL of them, and get a consensus of a decent local mechanic shop who works economically. They do exist, and will serve you well with an older car.

If you can fix computers, you change out the Idle Speed Control - kinda like changing a hard drive. And, check RockAuto.com - their online catalogue is great, and you can check the part number for the 93 - and then for the 94 - and see if its the same part number, and, if it is, get it from the junkyard and install it.

I'd try these things before going to a dealer - the dealer likely will give you an estimate that would make it uneconomical to repair the car - and doing this yourself and with a good local shop may make it feasible to keep the car running.

[Marcus815]

Well, as of now I either keep the car in running condition or I use public transportation. What puzzles me is the fact that for the entire life of the car until I got it, it sat in a garage for most of its time, never exposed to the elements and hardly driven. The previous owner was my grandfather and he hardly used the car. Maybe that's worse for it though to just sit around, I don't know.

As for the Cadillac mechanic, I won't be taking it there. I called them up today and I would have had to wait nearly two weeks to bring it in, and I found that unacceptable. My mother also questioned their ethics because she used to take her '96 Chevy Blazer to them and the past 6 times she took it something broke a week or so after taking it to the shop, literally. So instead I'll be taking it to a family run shop around the corner here where the Blazer goes now. It also comes recommended by a friend of mine who builds motorcycle's.

I'm going to ask them to have it done in the following...

1. Take care of the Tire Rotation and Oil Change

2. Check on the Transmission problems and the Engine Dieing Issue

If there turns out to be a problem with the Transmission and Engine dieing which they can identify and fix, then I'll take it from there.

Thanks again for the help.

[PAUL T]

Age is worse than high mileage. I feel for you, I have a 1992 Deville with 75,000 miles on it that has been sitting in my driveway for about a year. I bought it in 94 and had 12 years of trouble free excellent service. Then, BOOM, FPR went bad, heater core went bad, air conditioner needs a leak fixed, heater fan control module went bad, heater fan quit, ECM acted up, then the last I had it started the oil cooler line sprung a leak. I will resurect it hopefully before too long. Time to work on it is not on my side right know. Mean while my wife is driving my 94 Concours with 166,000 miles. I feel your pain.

[Marcus815]

So I have heard Paul, things go quickly. Anyhow, I dropped the car off this afternoon and I wanted to post a bit of info I found interesting, maybe not so much to the more knowledgeable members though, haha. When I dropped it off the receptionist asked me what I wanted checked. I ranted off Oil, Tire rotation and usual checkup. Then I started talking about the transmission and she got confused, so she called over one of the mechanics, a 30-ish guy with tat's all over his arm, an earring and pack of coffin nails in his shirt pocket. I was kind of afraid to try and explain the problem for fear that I'd get it wrong and he'd hit me, haha. Anyhow, I explained to him how the RPM's are high, how it sounds like a Race car when I hit the gas like on a Manual when you don't shift and he thought it was the same thing that a lot of you guys thought, something called the Idle Control motor that opens when I don't hit the gas and closes when I do, something like that. He said that would cause both my problems...the engine dieing and the loud engine and shifting errors that would appear to be transmission related. He's going to try and fix it, but he said I may indeed have to take it to the Cadillac specific repair shop for the part. So I'm hopeful that it's a cheap fix and I'll have it back on the road in no time. I'm even more hopeful because when I drove by later in the day, around 8:30PM (yeah, I was surprised they were open and working that late) I saw a newer SLS up on one of those platforms and they were working underneath, so I guess I'm not the only person who takes their Caddy there. He said it may even be ready tomorrow, so I'll keep you guys informed on how it goes.

[Marcus815]

Well, I've got some bad news. I picked it up from the shop today, they took care of everything except the engine racing and dieing issue. Apparently the car would have to go to a Cadillac specific shop. So, I took it to the nearby Cadillac shop right before they closed for the weekend and met with the Manager whom overlooks Cadillac's (They also service Saab, Buick and several other GMC cars). He said that he doesn't have any staff whom have enough years on the job to have seen the day when my Caddy was being serviced there and would know how to diagnosis it (The oldest they now take is '96's). Evidently it is more difficult than simply swapping out the Idle Control Motor, I would have to calibrate it and such, and it could even be some other problem as well.

So what do I do when the makers of my Car can't fix it? What I'm going to do is check some of the Cadillac dealers and repair shops up in New Hampshire because generally speaking there are more older cars in New Hampshire than in Massachusetts. I'm just worried that I'll get some guy that says "Oh yeah, I can fix that" and just starts swapping parts in and out and racks up a several thousand dollar bill. Any recommendations at this point?

[Ranger]

Adjusting the ICM after instalation is very simple.

[Bruce Nunnally]

This was a Cadillac dealer, or a combo GM dealer or an independent mechanic shop? Certainly they saved you both time by letting you know up front that they are incompetent. Definitely take it to a different dealer or mechanic.

A good mechanic is priceless for keeping a used car on the road. This is part of the reason I love new car warranties; just drop it off and drive away in a loaner or rental. Lots more cost, but SO convenient.

[heymantim]

They came out with an after market part that the cadillac dealer informed me of and install on my car for the fuel sensor, it was around $100.00 and that way didn't have to replace the fuel pump as you read earlier runs $300 +

[Marcus815]

Bruce, they are a GM dealer (they sell Saab's, Buicks, Corvette's, Cadillac's and Chevys) and they also have a repair shop for all of the cars they sell. The manager for the Cadillac repair shop in particular said that all of his guys are new guys and that he doesn't have any mechanics who are old enough (not in age specifically, but in experience) who would be familiar with the car enough to properly diagnose and fix the car.

I think I will have better luck with this place a friend told me about up in New Hampshire. They are big on selling and repairing older Caddy's.

The mechanic who changed the oil and rotated the tires said all my other fluids were low. He changed all the fluids, put in a new filter for the oil, rotated the tires and checked the brakes and belts for $78. I don't know if that was a good deal, but they gave me some great advice. According to him the car to one day Idle so high, just out of the blue, that even the brakes wouldn't be able to stop the car, which sounds like a very dangerous situation. I'd like to get it taken care of ASAP.

[BodybyFisher]

I actually have heard that before, that they didnt have mechanics that knew the car. I think that Marika was told that by Brogan on her 92. Personally I think they are full of BS, but if you think about it, if there mechanics are familiar back to 96, the 4.9 would in fact be unfamiliar to them.. We know how different the two engines are. The car is old, how much can they actually bill on it before it becomes prohibitive to the owner at $100 an hour, so they cant have mechanics learing on it as either the owner will have a big bill or the mechanic that is certified on the NS would loose money on the job. To me however, they should have mechanics trained in all GM engines. It gets complicated because some problems can be hard and time consuming to figure out especially if they are intermittant.