God must hate me.

[BodybyFisher]

You mentioned the ABS and TCS lights are on. Did you disconnect the EBTCM (electronic brake and traction control module) during the engine removal process? There is a metal cam that pulls the harness into the EBTCM. There should be other codes stored in the diagnostics that are the source of the ABS and TCS lights illuminating.

I found that metal cam very difficult to engage to hold the connector in. Its counter intuitive, the manual even highlights that its a bit tricky and that the cam needs to be engaged.

[jcobz28]

Finally got around to spending some time with the car today. I separated the trans harness connectors and there was quite a bit of dexcool in there. I was actually happy to see that, because it meant that it was quite possibly the culprit, and obviously much easier to fix than an ISS sensor replacement! I'm not sure how the fluid got in there though. I had the entire engine harness totally off the engine during the rebuild. I'm sure that connector got doused pretty good with coolant prior to the teardown, so maybe it was seeped all up into the connector and now it's just wicking out?!? Either way, I cleaned it out real well with brake cleaner, then sprayed compressed air to dry it out. Reconnected everything and took it for a spin. The trans shifted perfectly! No ISS code, no service trans codes... So I guess I'll keep my fingers crossed that it was just fluid in the connector shorting things out that threw the code. Time will tell.

Also, thanks for the tip on the 3rd ground to the ABS. I didn't have one connected. And I couldn't find a ground wire to connect to it either, so I made my own. Just got a short section of black wire, crimped a ring connector on either end, put one to the ABS, and another to one of the other 2 grounds on the trans case. That should be ok, right? I started the car and the ABS/TCS lights stayed out. I thought I fixed it, but then after driving around for a while they both came back on, so maybe there is something more that needs looking at. I'll check it out tomorrow.

The last thing I worked on today was light bulb replacement. I swear, whoever owned this car must have never replaced a bad bulb in it's entire life. On the exterior alone (front headlamps, rear tail area) I pulled 13 burnt out bulbs!!! Holy crap! Also, neither the turn signals or hazards flash. I'm going to get all new bulbs first to see if that's the reason, but my GM experience tells me that a burnt out bulb should cause a rapid flashing, not no flashing. So, perhaps the flashers are in need of replacement too. I pulled the dash cover and found the hazard flasher easily. Couldn't find the signal flasher, but by reading other posts on here I think I was digging around too low, so I'll look up higher tomorrow. Is there are way to test a flasher? Jump the leads to battery +/- and see if it clicks?

[Poobah]

Hopefully, you've solved the problem.

I know how how something like that can make you feel like God hates you.

When the head gaskets went on my '94 Eldorado, I had them replaced and the timeserts done. When the job was finished, I picked up the car and drove it for a day or two. All of a sudden, coolant started gushing out of the surge tank overflow line! I feared the worst and went into one of those black "God hates me" moods. It didn't happen again for the next few days. Just when I thought it had been a fluke, it did it again. I took the car back to my mechanic and he swore there was nothing wrong with it. This went on for a couple of weeks. Suddenly, I remembered that my mechanic said he'd put a new radiator cap (or surge tank cap, I can't remember) on it for me. I looked at it and the word "vented" (or "unvented". again I don't remember) was stamped on the cap. I wondered if it was the right cap. I went to Pep Boys and asked the counter man to check the application. Sure enough, the cap on the car was the wrong one! I bought the right cap and put it on (a project that cost less than $5, took about than 30 seconds, and required no tools) and the problem was solved for good.

I guess that kind of thing is all part of the fun

[BodybyFisher]

Electrical Connector

The transmission electrical connector is an important part of the transmission operating system. Any interference with the electrical connection can cause the transmission to set Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) or affect proper operation.

The following items can affect the electrical connection:

Bent pins in the connector from rough handling during connection and disconnection

Wires backing away from the pins or coming uncrimped (in either the internal or the external wiring harness)

Dirt contamination entering the connector when disconnected

Pins in the internal wiring connector backing out of the connector or pushed out of the connector during reconnection

Excessive transmission fluid leaking into the connector, wicking up into the external wiring harness and degrading the wire insulation

Moisture intrusion in the connector

Low pin retention in the external connector from excessive connection and disconnection of the wiring connector assembly

Pin corrosion from contamination

Damaged connector assembly

Remember the following points:

In order to remove the connector, squeeze the two tabs toward each other and pull straight up.

Limit twisting or wiggling the connector during removal. Bent pins can occur.

Do not pry the connector off with a screwdriver or other tool.

In order to reinstall the external wiring connector, first orient the pins by lining up the arrows on each half of the connector. Push the connector straight down into the transmission without twisting or angling the mating parts.

The connector should click into place with a positive feel and/or noise.

Whenever the transmission external wiring connector is disconnected from the internal harness and the engine is operating, DTCs will set. Clear these DTCs after reconnecting the external connector.

[BodybyFisher]

You need to find that ground. I have a 96 and I know that ground exists. I would recheck the connector at the ABS, clean the pins with electronic connector cleaner attach the correct ground and see what happens. That ground has to be around, unless you attached it someplace else.

[BodybyFisher]

Here is more info on, Leak at Electrical Connector, mine is leaking also, I wish I replaced my harness:

Leak at Electrical Connector Checks

Electrical connector damaged or not seated

Cut or nicked

Missing, porosity

O-Ring Seal

Damaged or not seated

Cut or nicked

Missing, porosity

Case

Porosity or cracked

[Cadillac Jim]

The flasher has three contacts, a hot, a ground, and a terminal for the lights. Usually it isn't affected much by a bad bulb. If it doesn't click, it's bad. Follow the wire from the headlight switch up alongside the dash support behind the steering column; the flasher is on a dash support very high, behind the speedometer, and held with a push-on metal clamp. Pull the metal clamp off the dash support with it, push the clamp onto the new flasher and move the plug over, and clamp it back where the old one came from so that it will sound right.

[jcobz28]

Thanks. Got them both out. The trick to getting to the directional flasher was pulling out on the headlight switch, so the entire assmebly pulled out, and the flasher was right there. Would have been quite a reach from under the dash. $20 for the pair... yikes! And the 13 bulbs I had to replace cost me another $30... !!!! Crazy how this little stuff adds up.

The flasher has three contacts, a hot, a ground, and a terminal for the lights. Usually it isn't affected much by a bad bulb. If it doesn't click, it's bad. Follow the wire from the headlight switch up alongside the dash support behind the steering column; the flasher is on a dash support very high, behind the speedometer, and held with a push-on metal clamp. Pull the metal clamp off the dash support with it, push the clamp onto the new flasher and move the plug over, and clamp it back where the old one came from so that it will sound right.