jcobz28 Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 It lives! It lives! Spend all Saturday completing hose and wire connections, filling with fluids, putting in lower control arms, suspension stuff, etc. Cranking it 30 sec with the ICM plugs pulled to build the oil pressure, then plug those back in, said a long prayer, and cranked it over for real. Fired up immediately! Sounds great. I have a slight exhaust leak at the y-pipe connection that I'll need to tighten up, but otherwise seems perfect. I am proud of the fact that I have no left over parts or bolts. I did a good job of labeling everything and it really paid off. The only minor question I have is, somehow three vacuum lines got labeled "V1". And I don't get how 3 of them would all connect together, since there is no splitter that I can see. And 7 months ago is too long for me to remember how they went. So I need your guys help please. Take a look at the pic below. I have 3 vacuum lines that need a home: #1 - Comes from the cabin on the passenger side through the firewall. #2 - Comes from that flap on the back of the intake manifold, it has a tiny little filter disc at the end of the vacuum line (by the way, what IS that flap for? never seen anything like it before) #3 - Comes from the vacuum canister in the passenger wheel well. Here's a pic of the car as of tonight. I'm going to have someone help me put the hood on tomorrow morning, and then take it for a test drive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Congrats on the successful repair. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Here is the vacuum routing on that side of the vehicle. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Here are some pics of the junction of those 3 vacuum lines on my '95 etc ... Perhaps they will help: Reference Pic 1 Reference Pic 2 ( tried to imbed pics, but would not work with photos.google.com and too late to figure it why ... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted July 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Thanks so much BodybyFisher and rmac-etc - that is exactly what I needed to see. Now I understand why I labeled all 3 connections as "V1", because they all tie together at a T-junction. Somehow, the t-splitter has gotten lost. At least it's a cheap part that's easy to get! THANK YOU!! -JACOB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigCat83 Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Congratulations on your successfull repair and welcome to the Club! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 If the flap on the manifold that you speak of is behind the P/S pump it is an over pressurization relief valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poobah Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Congratulations! I'm sure it's a real thrill the first time you fire up an engine you assembled yourself! I'm glad the Timesert kit worked out. Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Olsson Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Congratulations and welcome to the club I had one screw left over when I was done, that one was one of the original ones for the EGR-valve that I replaced a couple of years ago, thought it was lost forever but I found it when I was poking around... Only things that happened was 1) after firing it up, smoke were coming from the rear cylinder bank after a minute of idling, scared the xxx out of me, had to ask my father to stand ready with a fire extinguisher just in case while I was looking from behind to see were it came from. Found out it was the paint job on the rear water lines (repainted them with anti-corrosive paint) making some fumes before getting real dry.. 2) Got a “service engine soon” message, checked the codes and fount out that I forgot to plug the O2-sensor for the front bank. Got to love the internal diagnostics!! So you had the hood of...cheater Seriously, that is a job that gives you some bragging rights. Next time someone says “It must be impossible to do anything on that engine, not even enough room to change the plugs “ you just say “Well I pulled the heads with engine in car, wasn’t too bad” It feels good to do that kind of work with your own hands and tools, knowing that the job is probably better done than by a mechanic. After all, how many of them even know about time-serting? Done the right way to a fraction of the cost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted July 9, 2007 Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 Yes, by the way, great job. Its good to know that the heads can be done with the engine in the bay. We have had others do it in the bay also. If you took any photos of the block with the heads off it would be great to see them and any others you might have. I assume you used a 90 degree drill? How bad was doing the rear bank? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted July 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2007 No, I dropped the cradle. Took the hood off, supported the cradle with 2 large 3 1/2 ton jacks and wood boards, and then used an engine hoist with a chain wrapped around the front frame rail to lift the body off the motor. I give props to anyone who has done the job with the motor in the car - that would be tough. I've seen pics on here of people who have done it, and I can only imagine how tedious it must be timeserting the rear head. Yes, by the way, great job. Its good to know that the heads can be done with the engine in the bay. We have had others do it in the bay also. If you took any photos of the block with the heads off it would be great to see them and any others you might have. I assume you used a 90 degree drill? How bad was doing the rear bank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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