1975 Eldorado...Should I?

[Ranger]

it's 6 quarts with the filter.

Now that you mention it, those things had the big oil filters that held about a qt. Well, I was close, but you know what they say, "The memory is the second thing to go".

[BodybyFisher]

Hey congratulations! Can't wait to see your impressions.

[Ranger]

Ah yes. Brings back memories. Especially the first one. I'll bet it rides like an ACV (Air Cushion Vehicle). Somewhere I once saw a list of them year by year with the associated HP ratings, but I caould not find that list. It was sad to see them fall so far.

That'll have the air ride?

It will have ELC (Electronic Level Control), rear air shocks.

[BodybyFisher]

[Caddynut]

CONGRATS!!! A true classic at an excellent price. Post some more pics. I have done some work on those before, so message me with any questions and maybe I can help you. I love the new cars...but I am a sucker for the older stuff....my passion.

[95SevilleSLS]

Ranger,

I am always forgetting stuff like that, so you're not alone! I'm guessing the air shocks probably won't be operational...but I guess you never know. I remember the older caddies had a light saying the car was leveling, does this one too then?

Bodybyfisher,

Hey thanks! You had a really nice looking car!

Caddynut,

Thanks! I will definitely hit you up for help on the car! There are a few things that I know already that need some work so I'll be asking some questions. I too love those older cars. So much less gizzmos and such.

I was reading the owners manual and I found out a lot of cool stuff. Like autodimming headlights for when you have your brights on it automatically dims them when car is coming from the other way! Too crazy. And rear ABS, or as they called it, track master. A little green light for good fuel economy and a amber light for bad fuel economy and a low fuel light. They were way ahead of their time!

I'm going to drop the oil in a while and throw the starter back on and let you know if she purrs!

[Ranger]

Ranger,

I am always forgetting stuff like that, so you're not alone! laugh.gif I'm guessing the air shocks probably won't be operational...but I guess you never know. I remember the older caddies had a light saying the car was leveling, does this one too then?

I think it does, but it has been a long time since I was "intimate" with one.

I found the auto dimming feature to be a PITA. It would not dim soon enough. An oncoming car would then flash his brights and auto dimming would take over and dim. Then the guy would dim his lights and auto dimming would go back to bright. Great for creating a case of road rage. Also when making a turn and the lights reflected off of a snow bank they would dim, but once dimmed, the reflection was less so they would go back to bright and the cycle would continue. I left it off.

Trackmaster was somewhat archaic. I found that I could pump the brakes faster, unlike todays ABS.

[BodybyFisher]

You know I have to agree, that auto dimming feature could be problematic you had to be fast on the floor button to over ride it if it messed up..

[95SevilleSLS]

Alright here's what happened. I dropped the plug for a second to check to see if there was any water in the oil from a cracked block and it was all oil. I threw the starter back on and it started after the second crank! Engine purrrrrred. Sounds awesome! I put new wires and plugs in it because it had mismatched wires and I just wanted to change the plugs. I dropped the oil and put some fresh stuff in. It was burning tranny fluid so I popped on a vacuum modulator and it fixed it right up.

Here is what's still wrong with it:

1. Air shocks won't pump up- where is the compressor? I don't hear anything.

2. Dash lights don't work, haven't checked the fuses yet.

3. Climate control doesn't work. Doesn't even switch off of floor when put on defrost and it's always hot!

4. Wipers don't work on any setting.

5. CV boot is ripped.

6. Power locks don't work.

7. Horn was sweet! But now it doesn't work for some reason. Fuse?

8. Clock doesn't work, no biggie.

9.Auto headlights don't work.

I'm amazed that these things still work: trunk pull down, the lights to tell you what light is on or not, radio, power windows, low washer fluid indicator, and all interior lights.

If anyone can help me with any of those problems, please speak!

Also forgot to mention that I can't unlock the driver side from the outside. I have to crawl from the passenger side to unlock the drivers door.

[blue_eldo]

Alright here's what happened. I dropped the plug for a second to check to see if there was any water in the oil from a cracked block and it was all oil. I threw the starter back on and it started after the second crank! Engine purrrrrred. Sounds awesome! I put new wires and plugs in it because it had mismatched wires and I just wanted to change the plugs. I dropped the oil and put some fresh stuff in. It was burning tranny fluid so I popped on a vacuum modulator and it fixed it right up.

Here is what's still wrong with it:

1. Air shocks won't pump up- where is the compressor? I don't hear anything.

2. Dash lights don't work, haven't checked the fuses yet.

3. Climate control doesn't work. Doesn't even switch off of floor when put on defrost and it's always hot!

4. Wipers don't work on any setting.

5. CV boot is ripped.

6. Power locks don't work.

7. Horn was sweet! But now it doesn't work for some reason. Fuse?

8. Clock doesn't work, no biggie.

9.Auto headlights don't work.

I'm amazed that these things still work: trunk pull down, the lights to tell you what light is on or not, radio, power windows, low washer fluid indicator, and all interior lights.

Blue_Eldo

If anyone can help me with any of those problems, please speak!

The easiest and least expensive way to correct the air shocks is to buypass the air pump and cannect the air lines to a Schrader fitting. Mine is mounted throught the crossmember behind the rear bumper.

The climate control is probably vacuum leaks or vacuum lines not properly connected. Change the antifreeze right away to protect the heater core. You have to take the entire dash out to relace a heater core.

Wipers are most likly a fuse.

Pull the half shaft, not a big deal. Inspect the joint if the grease looks good, add a little molygrease and reboot and use the special double wrap bands that you tighted up with a special little banding jack. Rebuilts are also aviable thru NAPA.

I put a pair of Bilstein GMC motorhome shocks on the front and my 72 handles like a sports car!

Open the exhaust up. I put a new system consisting of a pair of 2 1/2" pipes conecting to a 3" flowmaster "Y" going back to a 3" to 2- 2 1/2" out single magnaflow.

The valve train is the weak link on these engines. The "T" pedestal rocker stands are weird and easily become unstabil at high RPM's The 30 year old valve springs are not to be trusted. Replace them if you do not want any problems when you start making seroius power.

These engines respond to cam changes as well as just advancing the stock cam.

The Qjet is a tricky piece and a story in itself. there is a lock-out for the secondaries that will not allow them to open if the Automatic choke is engaged. The primary power piston easily stick which results in a severe lean condition and stalling when cold.

I could go on and on. There has been much written on this wonderful engine. It was the last bigblock developed by GM that had built in features for adapting to emisions. the head casting have a high nickel content making hardeded valve seats unnecessary. All valve problems are spring and rocker arm related.

I will chime in with more later.

[Texas Jim]

Here is what's still wrong with it:

1. Air shocks won't pump up- where is the compressor? I don't hear anything.

2. Dash lights don't work, haven't checked the fuses yet.

3. Climate control doesn't work. Doesn't even switch off of floor when put on defrost and it's always hot!

4. Wipers don't work on any setting.

5. CV boot is ripped.

6. Power locks don't work.

7. Horn was sweet! But now it doesn't work for some reason. Fuse?

8. Clock doesn't work, no biggie.

9.Auto headlights don't work.

I'm amazed that these things still work: trunk pull down, the lights to tell you what light is on or not, radio, power windows, low washer fluid indicator, and all interior lights.

If anyone can help me with any of those problems, please speak!

Also forgot to mention that I can't unlock the driver side from the outside. I have to crawl from the passenger side to unlock the drivers door.

I had a '78 Eldo ... don't know how much alike the '75 is to the '78. Mine had been mostly sitting for 3 or 4 years when I bought it.

The rear shock air compressor was on the drivers side fender splash shield under the hood.

There is a vacumn motor behind the glove box with a real strong spring on it. I believe it is the hot/cold blend motor. I took the spring off of mine to get cold air. Otherwise it was HOT all time. Could not adjust heat output. Dash may have to be removed to replace. Not sure.

I had to replace the light switch in mine. Try turning the light switch knob /dash light brightness control back and forth about 20 times. Corrosion with get on the rheostat contacts. Replacing the switch fixed the dash lights "AND" the auto headlights. YMMV

My power lock problem was the switches in the arm rest. Both of them were bad.

[Caddynut]

check your fuses first....easiest thing to do. If not the fuses....start simple. the interior lights sounds like a headlight switch problem. I also would bypass the air compressor, and if you want to find it...trace the lines to it and check connections. Power windows..... fuse first....check to see if you are getting power to the switch....if yes...switch could be bad or those are famous for the grounds getting corroded. My old Cimarron was constantly having wires break in the drivers door and the grounds getting corroded (yes...I owned a Cimarron for 17 years ) I could go on and on also.. but just check the simple. Otherwise, if this is all that is wrong, it sounds like you got a hell of a great car (jelous ) Good Luck

[95SevilleSLS]

Thanks everyone for your input! I have a junk yard near by that has a whole bunch of older cars like this. I need to run down there this weekend an check it out for some stuff. I've had some strange things going on.

First, my clock started working for some reason...and the horn (horns) started working again too. The driver's side power lock doesn't work, but the passenger side will just lock, but won't unlock. Also, the actual lock on the drivers side doesn't unlock when I turn the key in the hole on the outside. Is it disconnected somewhere inside the door?

I may sound like a moron, but where are the fueses located? I can't seem to find the compressor for the air shocks, does that mean I probably don't have them? Are these cars supposed to sit really low in the back?

My girlfriends dad used to work on these all the time because he worked at a GM dealership (service guy) and he told me it was a vacuum leak for the climate control too, but he can't help me this week because of his taxes he has to do. Where should I start looking for a vacuum leak? Right on the climate control or under the hood somewhere. I'm guessing they had some problems before with it not working because there are shutoffs on the heaterhoses so that there is not anitfreeze going to the heatercore.

I'm going to start with the simplier things and move up. I want this thing working and looking the exact same as when it came out of the showroom.

My power antenna doesn't work either, but it makes the sound when you shut off the radio. Can I maybe lube it and shove it back down and hope it works or do I need a new one?

I'll try fiddling with the lights tonight to try and get them going.

Thanks again for all your answers! Keep 'em coming if you got more!

[Ranger]

Where should I start looking for a vacuum leak?

Parking brake release diaphragm.

[coolnesss]

Where should I start looking for a vacuum leak?

I had a 74 Convertible, which was a fabulous car. What I say below is from memory from 10 years ago or so, and there have been some cars in between, so I dont vouch for accuracy on all of it.

The car has alot of vacuum stuff; I went through and snipped the ends of each vacuum hose about 1/2 inch to get to fresh rubber and refitted each hose to the respective nipple (one at a time), and it solved a bunch of problems.

I think there's a big vacuum hose that goes from the intake manifold or maybe the base of the carbeurator to a fitting on the firewall. Replace it.

Spray WD-40 down into the power door lock switch and move it back and forth a bunch of times - many times that will clean the corrosion and make them work.

I bet WD down into the antenna will help. Hell, on a car that old, WD on every moving part, and with the little tube, into every area where there may be a moving part, will be helpful. Spray some into the grooves the a/c levers move in even.

My recollection is that the fuses are under the dash on the driver's side, near the emergency brake - you may have to pull out a panel cover below the climate control, or crawl under there, which is no big deal because there's SO much room. There's dash panels below the steering wheel that come out, and as I recall you can get to some of the vacuum fittings from there.

[95SevilleSLS]

We just got another foot of snow so everything has been put on hold. Hopefully we'll get some warm weather before July

[BodybyFisher]

We just got another foot of snow so everything has been put on hold. Hopefully we'll get some warm weather before July

This global warming is killing us......

[95SevilleSLS]

We just got another foot of snow so everything has been put on hold. Hopefully we'll get some warm weather before July

This global warming is killing us......

Yeah you got that right!

[Ranger]

Yeah, I got about 2" of global warming.

[95SevilleSLS]

So I started fiddling with stuff today and noticed a few things. There is a vacuum canister underneath the hood that has three hoses going to it. One of them that states "carb" is not hooked up to anything and just has a plug in it. The climate control semi-works. I put it to auto and it blows out the floor, I put it to bilevel and it blows hard out the floor and a little in the vents. I put it to defrost and it blows a little in defrost and hard on the floor still. This is at the temp all the way down. Also, no matter what temperature I put the knob at, it is always hot air coming out. I can hear stuff trying to switch when I move knobs. Is it possible that maybe the doors just need a little lube?

Also, how do I get the door panel off? I'm trying to figure out why I can't unlock the drivers door from the outside with the key, but it still locks if I push the little lock thingie down. I'm guessing it's unhooked somewhere in there.

[Ranger]

That canister is the charcoal canister for the EVAP system. Sounds like someone disabled it by removing the carb line and plugging it.

The climate control problem sounds a lot like it is vacuum related, though it could well be a sticky door. Only exploratory surgery will tell for sure.

[95SevilleSLS]

That canister is the charcoal canister for the EVAP system. Sounds like someone disabled it by removing the carb line and plugging it.

The climate control problem sounds a lot like it is vacuum related, though it could well be a sticky door. Only exploratory surgery will tell for sure.

I'll rip it apart someday when I'm a little more ambitious!

[Ranger]

I think the first thing I would do is hit Ebay and look for a FSM. It will be a Godsend.

[95SevilleSLS]

I think the first thing I would do is hit Ebay and look for a FSM. It will be a Godsend.

FSM? Excuse my ignorance, but what does that stand for? I have a feeling I'll know what it is and look like a goof

[Ranger]

FSM = Factory Service Manual

Don't bother with Chiltons or Haynes. Look for one by Helm Inc.