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05 DeVille won't start


nhb_mex

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Car wouldn't start, so I thought it was the battery, recharged it for two days at a Battery Shop....just installed it and the car wont start....all the lights work and I get a click sound but the car simply won't turn over....A few notes:

> After I turn the ignition and I get a click sound, the red battery light comes up on the display board.

> I checked the DTS codes and got like 30 of them, I don't know if they're all useful or not, do I write them all down?

Any help will be appreciated...THANKS! :blink:

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No, this is the only key I have and it's a copy (got the car at auction)....come to think of it, the night before I had this problem I had trouble starting the car getting the "Theft Attempt" but that happens every once in a while because of a 3rd party alarm that was installed.

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Being an 05, isn't the car covered with Roadside Assistance and full

warranty?

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Car wouldn't start, so I thought it was the battery, recharged it for two days at a Battery Shop....just installed it and the car wont start....all the lights work and I get a click sound but the car simply won't turn over....A few notes:

> After I turn the ignition and I get a click sound, the red battery light comes up on the display board.

> I checked the DTS codes and got like 30 of them, I don't know if they're all useful or not, do I write them all down?

Any help will be appreciated...THANKS! :blink:

30 codes... definitely an indication of bad grounds/connections/cables or battery. Positive end of the battery cable is a known troublemaker. Pull the red insulation off to expose the cable.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Being an 05, isn't the car covered with Roadside Assistance and full

warranty?

The car was bought at auction, it had no engine problems but was crashed badly from behind...looks and worked like new until this problem...I have it in Monterrey, Mexico right now. Let me list some of the error codes.

ABS 8101, AMP 7426, DDM 2510, DIM 4360, IPC 3020, IPM 9470, IRC 0912, LRD 2509, PDM 2510, RCC 4561, RFA 7282, RIM 6860, RRD 2509, VTD 3382

30 codes... definitely an indication of bad grounds/connections/cables or battery. Positive end of the battery cable is a known troublemaker. Pull the red insulation off to expose the cable.

I checked that cable..it looks clean, I mean, it's in the back seat... I figured it couldn't get too dirty

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Could you read those codes again and just give up the last five characters? As an example B2510.

The three letter module code is 'nice to know' but the critical information is in the last 5 characters. Makes it easy to look-up also.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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ok, checked codes again and removed the red plastic from the Positive in battery. Here are the codes before and after that change:

> Before Red Plastic Removal: B3832, U1000, P0335 & P0385

> After Removal #1: B1004, B3832, U1000 & B0429

> After Removal #2 (last time I checked): B3832 & U1000

Seems all 3 have B3832 and U1000 in common, which seem to be: "Window Position Sensor Circuit" and "Class 2 Communication Malfunction"

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It's not really an alarm, just a remote car door opener...the Caddy security system should still be in place.

Do you suggest I disable it? If so, what would be the easiest way to do it myself without having to go through a mechanic?

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You are reporting all the symptoms of a dead battery.

Now, I don't know what a "Battery Shop" is, but did they load test your battery before returning it to you? Did you get a good "bill of health?"

Regards,

Warren

EDIT: Please don't forget to report back to us on this. That's how our knowledge base grows.

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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You are reporting all the symptoms of a dead battery.

Now, I don't know what a "Battery Shop" is, but did they load test your battery before returning it to you? Did you get a good "bill of health?"

Regards,

Warren

It's a shop that specializes in selling batteries...they charged it for me, the Caddy reads 12.5 volts...could it still be the battery if it reads as such?

They told me it needed to be charged when I took it in, it was dead...apparently today they hooked it up before they gave it back to me and it read well.

thanks!

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You are reporting all the symptoms of a dead battery.

Now, I don't know what a "Battery Shop" is, but did they load test your battery before returning it to you? Did you get a good "bill of health?"

Regards,

Warren

It's a shop that specializes in selling batteries...they charged it for me, the Caddy reads 12.5 volts...could it still be the battery if it reads as such?

They told me it needed to be charged when I took it in, it was dead...apparently today they hooked it up before they gave it back to me and it read well.

thanks!

It's always difficult to troubleshoot at a distance. For what my poor opinion is worth, however, your battery is likely ready to be recycled.

Keep in mind, however, that is only an opinion.

Regards,

Warren

Posted Image

There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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It would be good to have the remote disabled and the affected circuitry restored to the original configuration.

Then, if you still experience the no-starting problem (which I doubt), we know what the circuitry is supposed to be doing.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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