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back brakes


Larry

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The rear caliper is hinged so to speak on the upper slide pin. Remove the lower (only) bolt, then swing the caliper upward on the upper slide pin. It will now be lifted up and clear of the rotor so pads can be changed. If you need to actually remove it, then slide it inboard and off of the pin. The dust boot will come off so be sure to seat is properly on reinstallation.

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The back brakes have a 12 mm bolt on bottom and behind and down in back of brake is a 14 mm bolt that holds emergency brake in place. There is a spring over the wire and the emergency brake must not be on , so it will be loose enough to get socket in next to it,this will need lots of wd40 and let set for at least an hour, and wet down 12mm also. Once the two bolts are out the brake will slide up so you can get to pads. The caliper will come off if you bring it up and push in towards wheel well and out very easy, just be careful. You cannot take rotor off unless you unbolt some other bolts, so I just sanded them as well as I could. The caliper needs the cube to turn with ratchet clockwise to bed all the way in for pad replacement. At the factory they used thread tightner on caliper bolts, but I did not. I used some good lubricator for the pins and boots. GOOD LUCK

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I used some good lubricator for the pins and boots. GOOD LUCK

I hope you used a silicone grease such as Syl-Glyde, that is designed for disk brake hardware. Petroleum based lubricants will cause the rubber boots and bushings to swell and the slider pins will seize in the boots. Sand & lube the slide contact points as well. Replace the boots if petroleum was used. I recommend replacing the the rubber bushings/boots with every pad replacement. The disk brake hardware kits are fairly inexpensive online at places like rockauto.com

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