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'92 Seville Code EO48


Adonaischild

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Hi! My dad gave us his 1992 Seville (because he loves me :D ).

At least I think he loves me <_< . It has a number of problems, most of which I've found in common with many who post here (engine coolant disappears, engine overheats, heater doesn't blow very hot, ect.)

Today, as I was browsing through the forums, I learned how to check the codes and gave it a shot. The first code I received read: EO48 Current So, I look it up from a link I found and this is how it translates the code: P048 (E048) ......................... Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Problem.

So, what does that mean? Please tell me it is nothing bad, I love my car!

April

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Sounds like it might have an EGR valve problem....search for posts on cleaning the plates and plenum tubes...easy and cheap fix....I have a 92 seville and had to do that and it cured the problem because they were carboned up.

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Read this thread on the E048, your EGR system is dirty and you need to clean it out, there are EGR ports when you look down in the throttle body, rod them out with a hanger or use round wire brushes. You might even pull your EGR valve and clean it up with wire brushes. Do not submerge it in cleaning fluid but you can soak it up to the pindle. Replace the EGR gasket when you pull the valve..

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...662&hl=E048

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Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Yes, it is a 4.9 liter.

What problems could a dirty or plugged EGR valve pose? The reason I ask is my husband is pretty busy and may not get to this for a few weeks.

Also, in trying to find a solution to our overheating/loss of coolant problem we did the air bubble treatment thing (ran the car with the radiator cap off, turned the heater on high, filled the radiator...) and when it got to about 200 degrees the coolant bubbled (not sprayed) out of the radiator (before we even added any). My husband thought maybe the theromstat is bad, but my dad says he changed that a couple months ago. Any ideas on what it could be? The coolant was more of a gray-brownish color, could this be from the sealant tabs?

Thanks!

April

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....

Also, in trying to find a solution to our overheating/loss of coolant problem we did the air bubble treatment thing (ran the car with the radiator cap off, turned the heater on high, filled the radiator...) and when it got to about 200 degrees the coolant bubbled (not sprayed) out of the radiator (before we even added any)....

Are you saying the coolant was vaporizing? Depending on the altitude at your location, I would not expect even pure tap water to vaporize at 200 degrees under zero pressure (pressure cap off). And the proper 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water would vaporize at something like 13 degrees higher than tap water.

Just trying to identify possible sources of your "bubbles".

The coolant was more of a gray-brownish color, could this be from the sealant tabs?
Brownish would be from the coolant supplement.

Jim

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If you are going to look for bubbles in the reservoir, do it when the engine is cold. Once it heats up, it will boil if not under pressure.

Take off the air filter and look down the TB bore. You will see 2 EGR tubes staring back at you. If they are all carboned closed, rod them out with a coat hangar or such. The EGR procedure that BBF mentioned is for the Northstar and does not apply to the 4.9 (different animals).

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If you are going to look for bubbles in the reservoir, do it when the engine is cold. Once it heats up, it will boil if not under pressure.

Take off the air filter and look down the TB bore. You will see 2 EGR tubes staring back at you. If they are all carboned closed, rod them out with a coat hangar or such. The EGR procedure that BBF mentioned is for the Northstar and does not apply to the 4.9 (different animals).

Ranger you mean the procedure mentioned by Caddynut? My procedure was for the 4.9

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Arg, Sorry Mike. I did not read the entire post. When I read "Do not submerge it in cleaning fluid", I assumed you where talking about the electronic EGR on the Northstars.

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Oh OK, you don't want to get the diaphram wet on the 4.9 EGR either...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I never considered that idea, I just remember that the guru said never to submerge the EGR on the 4.9 only the pindle and seat area..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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What we did to check for air bubbles in the coolant system was take the radiator cap off, run the engine until it got to like 165, then turned the heater on high and added a 50/50 mix. Only we were trying to do something at else at the same time and the engine reached 200 (which it does quickly anyway) before we turned the heater on and that is when it bubbled over (like a garden hose does when you hold it vertically). It did it again a few seconds later.

I'm not even sure what happens to the coolant. My dad has had the car overheat on him a few times. Thankfully it hasn't overheated on us yet. He told us the coolant just disappears, so we thought we'd look for the source of the disappearance. We had it for maybe two weeks and sure enough we had to add some coolant. The engine runs right around 195-200 and when it needed coolant it was running 225 mostly. There are no apparent leaks and the oil is clean. Dad replaced the water pump because he thought that was the problem, had the radiator flushed and sealants added.

Speaking of sealant tablets, how often should you use them?

Mind if I share another problem? It gets pretty cold here in Wisconsin and for some reason the heat only blows out the passenger side. It actually feels like cold air is blowing on the driver's side, but that could be the frigid outside air. Either way, a 30 minute drive in 15 below wind chills (February weather) left my toes frozen. We run the defrost to warm the car and that seems to work fine on both sides. Any clues?

Thanks!

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Have the cooling system pressure tested. If there is an external leak, it will eventually show itself without being able to evaporate. Sometimes the leak is in the radiator side tank and is not visible and will evaporate before it drips. When you run it for too long with the cap off, it will eventually boil and overflow, as you have already seen. If you run it with the cap off, you have to cap it up before it reaches 212.

The uneven heating is likely an air mix door actuator that has failed. You probably have dual zone heat? The actuators should be behind the glove box. I think one is accessible from underneath.

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I think you jinxed me :D ...I tripped this code last night in my '92!!! My EGR tubes were perfectly clean, so my next guess is the EGR valve. I played with the valve diaphram while the car was running and it does still work....so I am hoping the diaphram got stuck....maybe what is happening with yours...try sticking your fingers under the diaphram with the car running and push up....the car should almost die or die.

2008 BMW 328xi

2007 Chrysler Aspen

2001 Cadillac Seville STS

2000 Ford Ranger XLT
1998 Mitsubishi Spyder Convertible

1996 Saturn SC-1
1991 Ford F-150
1979 Chevrolet Caprice
1968 Ford LTD
1965 VW Beetle "Herbie The Love Bug Replica**

1961 VW Beetle

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Okay, my husband had time this weekend to look at the EGR valve. He did what you suggested first, Caddynut, and lifted the diaphram with his fingers while the car was running and it did almost die. So, does this mean the valve is okay and he just needs to clean the tubes or does this mean everything is fine and we should just reset the codes?

April

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Okay, my husband had time this weekend to look at the EGR valve. He did what you suggested first, Caddynut, and lifted the diaphram with his fingers while the car was running and it did almost die. So, does this mean the valve is okay and he just needs to clean the tubes or does this mean everything is fine and we should just reset the codes?

April

It means your EGR passages are clean, but does not mean EGR valve is fine (could be though). Did you clean two EGR tubes inside throttle body (under the plates)? Usually it's all you need to get rid of 048. Check all the vacuum tubes running from the throttle body to EGR SOLENOID and EGR valve.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Check the tubes first in the throttle body. Another way to check the EGR valve without removing it is to disconnect the vacuum tube on the EGR valve...car NOT running. Carefully push up on the bottom of the diaphram to force the air out of the vacuum port. While holding the diaphram in the up position, put your finger over the vacuum port on the EGR valve and release the diaphram. The diaphram should stay in the up position which means the valve is holding vacuum. If it slowly or immediatly starts to drop...there is a tear in the diaphram which means the valve needs replaced. As I said before....my 4.9 just tripped the code too and I check my tubes and they are perfectly clean...checked my valve and it is holding vacuum, but I might have to pull it to clean out the port...darn valves are EXPENSIVE!!! Hope this helps and let us know the results

2008 BMW 328xi

2007 Chrysler Aspen

2001 Cadillac Seville STS

2000 Ford Ranger XLT
1998 Mitsubishi Spyder Convertible

1996 Saturn SC-1
1991 Ford F-150
1979 Chevrolet Caprice
1968 Ford LTD
1965 VW Beetle "Herbie The Love Bug Replica**

1961 VW Beetle

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, thank you for all your help. My husband tested the valve as Caddynut suggested and the valve was not holding vaccuum. Then one day the car started driving and idling rough, which we assumed was the EGR valve so for now my husband bypassed it and the car is driving ALOT smoother now.

Thanks again, glad you are all here to help out! Let us know if there are any tips on getting around the fuel lines!

April

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glad we could help...got the same problem with my '92 now GGGRRRRR!!!

2008 BMW 328xi

2007 Chrysler Aspen

2001 Cadillac Seville STS

2000 Ford Ranger XLT
1998 Mitsubishi Spyder Convertible

1996 Saturn SC-1
1991 Ford F-150
1979 Chevrolet Caprice
1968 Ford LTD
1965 VW Beetle "Herbie The Love Bug Replica**

1961 VW Beetle

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I learned an important lesson from bbobynski in September 2004 about testing the diaphram on and EGR valve. They don't work like they did when we were kids.... The EGR on the 4.9 DOES NOT operate that way, they do not move if you apply vacuum and they will not hold a vacuum if you do that test above....

The gurus words are removed from the following thread, but the bottom line was that you can't test these EGR valves with a vacuum NOR will they hold a vacuum...

The gist of his words were that you can not test the 4.9 EGR with a vacuum source nor will it hold a vacuum as described as above. The EGR system is Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) system. Without backpressure, it will not hold a vacuum..

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...amp;#entry24487

Try cleaning the EGR valve as I described early in this thread.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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He can't get the EGR Valve off. He said there are metal fuel lines in the way of a bolt he needs to loosen and he can't get around the lines. Any suggestions on how to get around the fuel lines? We'd much rather clean the stupid thing than replace it!

Thanks!

April

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Have you cleaned the EGR tubes as mentioned previously? Remove the intake and look into the throttle body - you will see two 1/2" diameter tubes - they should not be clogged up with carbon. If they are, rod them out with a coathanger wire to clean them.

The EGR valve relies on exhaust backpressure to operate - most will not hold vacuum in a static test.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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He can't get the EGR Valve off. He said there are metal fuel lines in the way of a bolt he needs to loosen and he can't get around the lines. Any suggestions on how to get around the fuel lines? We'd much rather clean the stupid thing than replace it!

Thanks!

April

Let me pull my 91 Seville manual out tonight and see if I can find the procedure to remove the EGR on the 4.9...

Its possible you need to lift the fuel rail.. Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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