Dloch Posted February 26, 2007 Report Share Posted February 26, 2007 I changed my front and rear strut a year ago or so. I had to change one on warranty for Actuator shorted out one way or another. I just got another C1716, my question is does anyone know what size resister do I need to use to load the system the same as the damper actuator. Thanks Dennis Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 26, 2007 Report Share Posted February 26, 2007 What year is it? JimD is pretty good with this stuff.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted February 26, 2007 Report Share Posted February 26, 2007 As a test, disconnect that strut damper valve at the chassis connector. That should give you a C1717 DTC after a short test drive above 25 MPH. If you do not get a C1717, the problem might be something other than the damper valve. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dloch Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 It's a 97 STS. Last night I actually had both codes, C1716 & C1717. This morning after resetting the codes before going to work I didn't get any. With the cold wet weather here in Michigan I wondering if I have moisture in the connector. I had this strut fail once before, a C1716 I believe after buying them from Arnot, which they replaced. As a test, disconnect that strut damper valve at the chassis connector. That should give you a C1717 DTC after a short test drive above 25 MPH. If you do not get a C1717, the problem might be something other than the damper valve. Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 Since those codes are contradictory, the problem is likely somewhere other than the strut damper valve. Hit the connector internally with some WD-40 and follow that with a shot of brake cleaner and follow that with enough dielectric grease to preclude any moisture getting into the connector. As good as those waterproof connectors really are at sealing moisture, it is possible to damage the seal and allow enough moisture laden air in there to put down a microscopic layer of oxidation on the contact pins and sockets. Just for reference if you get a chance to put an ohmeter on the damper valve coil, you should see something like 10 to 15 Ohms across the coil pins, and no continuity from either coil pin to chassis. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dloch Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 I will try hitting the connection with WD40 and cleaning as you suggest, thanks for the input. I will report back afterwards Dennis Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iametarq Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 I will try hitting the connection with WD40 and cleaning as you suggest, thanks for the input. I will report back afterwards Dennis Dennis, are you still around? If so what were your results? My wife to be is now driving my Seville and accidentally hit something and cracked the lower grill and somehow managed to pop the splash guard in the driver's side wheel well. This was two days ago. Today we take the car in for an oil change at a GM Dealer (not caddy, though) and after a few hours she called with the C1716 and C1717. I checked the car tonight C1716 is history, and cleared, but now C1717 is current with the car sitting in Park. I probably won't be able to look at it until next Tuesday with Labor Day, etc coming up, but from reading this post and a few others it appears it is hopefully just a loose connector. Another thing to note is my splash guard under the engine has not been installed for the last month so it is exposed to the elements. I hope some grit just got lodged in somehow, somewhere. The splash guard will be reinstalled soon... Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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