MAC Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 The front wheel on the left side is abruptly moving/shifting while driving causing the car to suddenly vear or shift to one side or the other. I replaced the bearing about 6 months ago. There is no obvious indication of what may be wrong. I'm going to check the wheel to make sure it's on tight. When I turn the steering wheel all seems fine. It's a bit unsettling to be driving and suddenly the left wheel abruptly moves as though there is a seized brake caliper piston; however, the shift will happen regardless of braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Have your alignment and front end checked out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Check the ball joints and the outer tie rod ends - jack up the front end and grip the tire at the 3:00 and 9:00 position and check for play. Repeat in the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. Be sure to check both sides. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 This may not be related at all ... but a while back my brothers Chevy pickup started doing that. It would veer to one side or the other. No discernable pattern to it. After basically having all the front end rebuilt, it turned out to be the power steering pump. Kinda strange, but that was what finally fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Are you saying it will spontaneously pull to the left? Please clarify what you mean by abruptly move shift to one side or another... Does your steering wheel turn when this happens? Do your calipers/rotors appear to be overheating from it? Could this be related to your rear, maybe your rear knuckle is causing it? I have bad rear knuckles and the car can be all over the place when I hit an expansion joint... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted February 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Are you saying it will spontaneously pull to the left? Please clarify what you mean by abruptly move shift to one side or another... Does your steering wheel turn when this happens? Do your calipers/rotors appear to be overheating from it? Could this be related to your rear, maybe your rear knuckle is causing it? I have bad rear knuckles and the car can be all over the place when I hit an expansion joint... If I slightly turn the wheel, particularly to the right, there is an unmistakable shift. It's as though alignment was suddenly lost causing the wheel to move. The movement is fast--actually, it's a bit unnerving as though something is about to give. I did take a look at the left front and the rotor didn't appear to be overheating. However, I have notice a bit of uneven braking from time-to-time. Also, the left front strut seems to be making a popping noise when the front end dips low upon braking. Then again, maybe it's not actaully the strut it's something else which is causing the problem. This may not be related at all ... but a while back my brothers Chevy pickup started doing that. It would veer to one side or the other. No discernable pattern to it. After basically having all the front end rebuilt, it turned out to be the power steering pump. Kinda strange, but that was what finally fixed it. Thanks for the suggestion. I will keep it in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 I am with Kevin, check the ball joints and the tie-rods and lastly the rack for tightness. Have you jacked the wheels off he ground and grabbed them at 3 and 9 o'clock feeling for looseness or play? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted February 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 I am with Kevin, check the ball joints and the tie-rods and lastly the rack for tightness. Have you jacked the wheels off he ground and grabbed them at 3 and 9 o'clock feeling for looseness or play? Not yet. But this weekend I certainly will. However, depending on how it drive's home I may have to take Friday off and check everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Also look at your wheels straight on from the front, when my ball joint was bad the car kind of squatted where the bottom of the tire was out or outward at the bottom... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted February 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 I found the problem. The right side Control Arm insulator/bushing nut worked itself loose and fell off--also lost the retainer and bushing. So the control arm was loose, which explains the sudden movement of the front end. Before I left work I decided to make sure the wheel nuts were tight on both sides. Then checked the steering when backing out (turning fully to both sides) and noticed a rubbing sound on the right side--it was the rear part of the front tire rubbing on the plastic wheel well cover. Looked at the control arm and sure enough it was loose. I drove (very carefully) to Ace Hardware and luckily found a nut and used washers to take up the slack left by the missing bushing. Also lucky for me I bought an extra set of ACDelco bushings which includes retainers. Tonight I made the repair. How the nut worked loose, I don't know. I torqued it according to Service Manual specs. At any rate, I also used a lock washer when I made the repair. The originals didn't have a lock washer so I decided to leave like the original. The left side is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 Are you talking about the strut rod bushing? #5 in this photo Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted February 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 Are you talking about the strut rod bushing? #5 in this photo That's it! I lost a new bushing. But at least I found the problem and I'm safe. I did learn how important strut rods are to proper alignment. Losing a nut on a strut rod is downright dangerous. I was also wrong thinking it was the left side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 I am surprised that nut backed off, I have always had to use a wrench to remove it all the way, it never just spun off... If you have a junk yard this nut should be easy to find... Glad you found it.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted February 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 I am surprised that nut backed off, I have always had to use a wrench to remove it all the way, it never just spun off... If you have a junk yard this nut should be easy to find... Glad you found it.. I am too. It was apparent something was wrong but I didn’t think it could be a strut rod nut. When I checked the right side it was obvious the rod was loose as there was space between the inner bushing and the frame. I reached under to check to see how loose the nut was and noticed there wasn’t one. I’m going to check to see if my local Cadillac dealer can get a stock nut—assuming I can buy just the nut, I don’t want to spend $15—but I might just to keep it OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 23, 2007 Report Share Posted February 23, 2007 I don't know where you are in NJ but if you went to a junk yard, and got it off of a caddy, it would still be OEM... and it would cost a heck of a lot less, if you are missing the BIG washer and front half of the bushing you can get that while you are at it.... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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