suliot1 Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 1991 Florida Seville 4.9 engine. Since moving to mountains in North Carolina, car starts and runs perfectly until morning temperatures went below 30 degrees (engine temp needs to be about 40-45, then cranking 15 seconds, then roars to life. Changed to thinner oil. Replaced ECT temp sensor. Still won't start when cold. What else could it be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 How is your battery? The battery's output is seriously diminished as the outside temperature decreases. Have it load tested...and be sure it is of the correct cold cranking capacity and the correct size... Effects of Temperature on a Standing Battery The parasitic drain will be fairly constant over a range of temperatures. The important temperature is that of the vehicle at the time a start is attempted. Colder temperature raises the threshold of a no-start by increasing the residual power needed. When the temperature falls to 0°C (32°F), the battery will be able to put out only about 85% of its normally available starting power, and the engine may need as much as 165% of the usual power to start. The combined effect of these two factors is to reduce the number of days the battery can stand with a parasitic drain. At 0°C (32°F), the battery can stand only half as long as it could at 25°C (77°F). And at -19°C (0°F), the standing days are reduced to one-fourth. Temperatures above the moderate climate of 25°C (77°F) increase the battery's internal self discharge. If the battery is in a locale where the temperature is averaging 32°C (90°F), an additional 5% to 10% of the available ampere-hours will be lost in a month due to self-discharge within the battery. At temperatures below the moderate range, self-discharge will be low enough to be negligible compared to the parasitic loss. What the Policies and Procedures Manual Says About Parasitic Drains Because determining how long a battery may last in a storage situation is not precise, the P& P manual provides a clear-cut policy, excerpted here. "Discharged batteries can freeze at temperatures as high as 0°C (32°F), causing permanent damage. Other permanent damage may result from allowing batteries to stand discharged for extended periods." Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suliot1 Posted February 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 Battery is almost new, starter is new. Spins rapidly, sounds like hitting on one. As temperature goes up, sounds like hitting on two. Higher temperature, hitting on four. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). There is a lot of info in the archives on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). There is a lot of info in the archives on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 Assuming you have 40 pounds on fuel rail.Check high voltage by hooking a timing light up,eight times to each wire. Have someone crank engine each time and engage light and look at it to see if you have a slow steady flash. If it is not steady or irregular, you have a miss on that plug or wire, if it is on two wires such as 1-3 or 2-4 it could be a coil on pack. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suliot1 Posted February 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 I'm betting it's a coil. I'm betting it's a coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Isn't the 4.9 a single coil engine? Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Yep single coil in the distributor, Warren. Coils are typically sensitive to heat not cold. Those HEI coils are bullet proof.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caddynut Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 I have the same problem with my 92 Seville4.9. Once it gets cold...I have hell starting it. It cranks, but it won't fire. I have determined it to be a fuel problem not an electrical. I have to floor the pedal to get it to start after about 30 seconds of cranking. Maybe worn injectors flooding it during cold startup? 2008 BMW 328xi 2007 Chrysler Aspen 2001 Cadillac Seville STS 2000 Ford Ranger XLT1998 Mitsubishi Spyder Convertible 1996 Saturn SC-11991 Ford F-1501979 Chevrolet Caprice1968 Ford LTD1965 VW Beetle "Herbie The Love Bug Replica** 1961 VW Beetle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 I have the same problem with my 92 Seville4.9. Once it gets cold...I have hell starting it. It cranks, but it won't fire. I have determined it to be a fuel problem not an electrical. I have to floor the pedal to get it to start after about 30 seconds of cranking. Maybe worn injectors flooding it during cold startup? Check the FPR. It is easy to check, just pull the vacuum hose off of it and pressurize the fuel system(turn the key on, engine off), if there is gas coming from it replace it. If no gas check for a leaky injector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caddynut Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Thanks Paul...I will do that!!! 2008 BMW 328xi 2007 Chrysler Aspen 2001 Cadillac Seville STS 2000 Ford Ranger XLT1998 Mitsubishi Spyder Convertible 1996 Saturn SC-11991 Ford F-1501979 Chevrolet Caprice1968 Ford LTD1965 VW Beetle "Herbie The Love Bug Replica** 1961 VW Beetle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catch Me Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Hi, I am no injection expert but does that model use a cold start injector? It's an injector that gives the engine a shot of fuel when the key is turned on or when the engine starts turning over depending on how the factory programed it. If so it may have a problem. This injector was the cause of a no start problem on an old tuned port system I had. As I say I'm no expert but thought I'd put it out there. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 No such dedice on a 91 4.9. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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