daver Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Hey guys I just bought a 1995 SLS. I love it, it's actually my first "modern" car, my previous cars being an '82 T-bird (my first car ever-cheap), and my 75 Eldo which is parked next to my SLS. I've got a problem though. At stopsigns or lights I've got my foot on the brake (of course) and my tach needle twitches and it feels like the car wants to go. I let off the brake and take off and it's fine. ABS light is not on and nothing comes up on the DIC. And then, on the hiway, if I'm doing 40mph and give it some gas it'll chug and hesitate. Doesn't do this in town or anything. The only thing I've done since I bought it is get an oil change, changed the air filter, and got the "fuel system cleaning" at the oil change place. My other cars all I had to do was clean the carb and I was good. I usually do my own work as long as I'm not getting "into" the engine. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmarinov Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Hey guys I just bought a 1995 SLS. I love it, it's actually my first "modern" car, my previous cars being an '82 T-bird (my first car ever-cheap), and my 75 Eldo which is parked next to my SLS. I've got a problem though. At stopsigns or lights I've got my foot on the brake (of course) and my tach needle twitches and it feels like the car wants to go. I let off the brake and take off and it's fine. ABS light is not on and nothing comes up on the DIC. And then, on the hiway, if I'm doing 40mph and give it some gas it'll chug and hesitate. Doesn't do this in town or anything. The only thing I've done since I bought it is get an oil change, changed the air filter, and got the "fuel system cleaning" at the oil change place. My other cars all I had to do was clean the carb and I was good. I usually do my own work as long as I'm not getting "into" the engine. Any suggestions? Goldy - welcome! I had almost the exact same problem in my '94 ETC this fall. Do a WOT (wide-open throttle) from 40 or so MPH and I'm guessing you get to 5,000 - 5,500 RPM and the engine won't go any more and will kind of surge, lunge, etc. All I did was new plugs and wires (Delco everything, about $175 DIY) and the car idles smooth as glass and gives me 6,500 to third at WOT. It made a HUGE difference that I was not expecting from a standard "tune-up" procedure. If you do this, be sure to save and follow all of the sp wire routing guides/routing. These things put out a lot more juice than vintage vehicles (so I've read on this forum) - don't arc them. I was also getting a transmission "problem" -- in the fact that I'd be in OD and step on it a little and the tranny couldn't decide b/wn OD and third. After the ignition change all is perfect. How many miles, might I ask? I was 100K+ when I changed the plugs/wires. Hope this helps - let us know if you have any questions. Mark <!--fonto:Arial--><span style="font-family:Arial"><!--/fonto-->2007 DTS Performance - 50K <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--> As a matter of fact, I <i>am</i> driving 70 MPH in a phone booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Goldy - welcome! I had almost the exact same problem in my '94 ETC this fall. Do a WOT (wide-open throttle) from 40 or so MPH and I'm guessing you get to 5,000 - 5,500 RPM and the engine won't go any more and will kind of surge, lunge, etc. All I did was new plugs and wires (Delco everything, about $175 DIY) and the car idles smooth as glass and gives me 6,500 to third at WOT. It made a HUGE difference that I was not expecting from a standard "tune-up" procedure. If you do this, be sure to save and follow all of the sp wire routing guides/routing. These things put out a lot more juice than vintage vehicles (so I've read on this forum) - don't arc them. I was also getting a transmission "problem" -- in the fact that I'd be in OD and step on it a little and the tranny couldn't decide b/wn OD and third. After the ignition change all is perfect. How many miles, might I ask? I was 100K+ when I changed the plugs/wires. Hope this helps - let us know if you have any questions. Mark Thanks for replying! I will change the plugs and wires. I can't believe how expensive that is, it was like 40 on the thunderbird. Guess I expected that though. What about the stop-light thing? Any idea? Thanks again, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolnesss Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Goldy - welcome! I had almost the exact same problem in my '94 ETC this fall. Do a WOT (wide-open throttle) from 40 or so MPH and I'm guessing you get to 5,000 - 5,500 RPM and the engine won't go any more and will kind of surge, lunge, etc. All I did was new plugs and wires (Delco everything, about $175 DIY) and the car idles smooth as glass and gives me 6,500 to third at WOT. It made a HUGE difference that I was not expecting from a standard "tune-up" procedure. If you do this, be sure to save and follow all of the sp wire routing guides/routing. These things put out a lot more juice than vintage vehicles (so I've read on this forum) - don't arc them. I was also getting a transmission "problem" -- in the fact that I'd be in OD and step on it a little and the tranny couldn't decide b/wn OD and third. After the ignition change all is perfect. How many miles, might I ask? I was 100K+ when I changed the plugs/wires. Hope this helps - let us know if you have any questions. Mark Thanks for replying! I will change the plugs and wires. I can't believe how expensive that is, it was like 40 on the thunderbird. Guess I expected that though. What about the stop-light thing? Any idea? Thanks again, Dave Dont use anything other than original Delco parts - many peeps have had problems with other brands. Also, sounds a bit like a vacuum leak somewhere - check that before you go buying stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abad95 Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Hey Goldy... When I bought my 95'STS it was doing the same thing.it wanted to take off at stop signs, and did.It was scary for my wife, and dangerous. Dealer changed the Idle speed control. Welcome and hope you enjoy your new Caddy.... Florin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmarinov Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Hey Goldy... When I bought my 95'STS it was doing the same thing.it wanted to take off at stop signs, and did.It was scary for my wife, and dangerous. Dealer changed the Idle speed control. Welcome and hope you enjoy your new Caddy.... Florin Mine was just a little bit of lurch forward at stoplights...plugs/wires cleared that up for me. If that doesn't do the trick, you may want to investigate the ISC as Florin mentioned. <!--fonto:Arial--><span style="font-family:Arial"><!--/fonto-->2007 DTS Performance - 50K <!--fontc--></span><!--/fontc--> As a matter of fact, I <i>am</i> driving 70 MPH in a phone booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Welcome Goldy. I would agree with the guys above. Clean the TB and R & R the plugs & wires (A/C Delco). Do you hear the ISC (Idle Speed Control) motor ratchet and the gas pedal jump when you shut down? If so, the ISC motor may be your idle problem, but do the plugs & wires first. Probably due anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Fred Posted December 10, 2006 Report Share Posted December 10, 2006 On my '90 seville you have to calibrate the TPS, If the TPS is not right the ISC won't be, see I don't know if your car is that way. Also on mine you can sort of calibrate the ISC (has a screw that turns) MerryChristmas Be a Capitalist or work for one. Work for a Capitalist or be one. MerryChristmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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